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Old 07-21-2016, 05:07 PM   #337
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Looking forward with door closed.

Attachment 267277
I spy with my little eye what looks to be Airstream style Alcoa Mag wheels??????

Cheers
Tony
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:32 PM   #338
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1977 20' Argosy 20
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Alcoa Wheels

Tony,

Yes those are ALCOA wheels. They are 16 inch wheels in place of the original 16.5 inch wheels. Last year I decided to change over to the 16 inch wheels do to the difficulty in obtaining the 8.75 x 16.5 inch tires originally on the motorhome from the factory. In later years Chevy changed to the 16 inch wheels for their smaller P chassis.
Due to heavy load on the front axle, the standard 16 inch steel wheels are slightly under margin. Therefore I decided to go the Alcoa route which gives a little more margin for the front axle weight.
There are four Alcoa wheels (all on the outside) and two Accuride steel wheels on the rear inside. Due to the design of the rear hub, one Aluminum and one steel wheel must be used on the rear axle.
So far they have been great. They were a direct bolt on replacement with the LT225/75R16 Load Range E tires. There was no change even to the speedometer.
I purchased the ALCOA wheels from Southwest Wheel in Dallas, TX.

Gregg
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:41 PM   #339
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Gregg, it's amazing you still have the instructions for adjusting the seats!

Ernie continued with the effort of removing the wood on the passenger floor. It didn't come out near as easy from under the wall as the drivers side. The drivers side was so rotted it just came out in little chunks. Not so for the passenger side

The inner wall on the passenger side has been partially lifted out of place and if I'm not mistaken the rest of the wood came out. I'll have to look tomorrow to see just how much if any is left to do.

As for the tail lights. Martin purchased new replacements from Airstream Supply. They are definitely not the same as the lights used on the Classics. They are about an 1-1/4" wider and about 1/2" or so taller. I test fit them on one of the 345 rear quarters that I have laying around and the light assemblies would not fit between the rub rails. Fortunately the Argosy rub rails have a larger gap and the light assemblies will fit with about 1/2" to spare top and bottom.

I cut the passenger side opening and did a test fit of the light. There are some definite dents that will need to be addressed before there is any hope of sealing the opening around the lights.
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Old 07-22-2016, 03:05 PM   #340
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Smile



As soon as I saw this pic I realized what this piece of aluminum was for! [ATTACH]267506
[/ATTACH]
It has been sitting in a pile with other AS parts for two years. It's too late now already installed the carpet.
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Old 07-22-2016, 05:46 PM   #341
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Greg, what piece of aluminum are you referring too?
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:52 AM   #342
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Brad and Ernie are hitting an issue with 'tail lights' that I think others need to be made aware of.

Peanut came with the factory fitted light bar, or what is left of one. I picked up later model 'plastic' lights as replacements, very similar to a 310.

I had previously removed the belt-line trims in prep for the body so we have a really clear view of fitment issues. Ernie has been re-working the metal around the corners but both Brad and Ernie are very happy the contours are 'original'.

So when they tried to fit the new lights and found the lights don't follow the contour they were surprised.



Brad has 310 plastic lights and they were no better, however he also has some of the circular light clusters ready to use on his Argosy; those fitted perfectly.





So why is the poor fitting not obvious on the later models? Can't simply it isn't visible - because the light cluster sits between the two belt-line trims



Unless each cluster was trimmed by hand during installation, the assumption is all MH with the plastic type clusters will have gaps between the bodywork and cluster, just not visible because of the belt-line.

We are hoping the addition of some rubber edge trim and the use of Vulkem will allow the plastic lights to be used on Peanut, but this is something others should be aware of as it is a definite possible source for water ingress.



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Old 07-24-2016, 11:46 AM   #343
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Just to add a little to what Martin mentioned about the tail lights. I was really surprised how poorly the Classic style plastic lights fit on Peanut. I had saved the two rear quarter sections from the 345 that I dismantled and the fit of the Classic style plastic lights wasn't all that good either. My opinion is Airstream just did a lousy job of fitting the plastic tail lights. I'm sure the reason they stopped using the cast housings was due to cost. It's a shame they couldn't have done better though.

To give you an idea how bad Peanut was beat up in the rear this picture should give you an idea of what's going on.
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The good news is the picture makes the dents look worse than they really are. Ernie has been slowly pulling the dents out with a PDR dent puller kit that Martin bought. It takes time but knowing where to tap while pulling on the dent helps a lot. Ernie mentioned that he was surprised how easy the aluminum was to work compared to steel! I think the biggest problem doing Airstream body work is getting access to the backside of the panel you're working on.


I was pretty worried about how the new right rear tail light was going to fit due to the large dent that was below the rub rail but just above the light assembly. The following two pictures shows the before and after where Ernie was able to pull the dent out to where it the tail light now has a pretty decent fit.
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Around 8 to 10 years ago Peanut had these dents in the rear cap. Note how much the bathroom vent slopes downward.
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At some point the dents were worked on to where they look like this today.
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Once we get a platform setup at the right working height Ernie will have a go at fixing these dents. Should be a challenge!


I finally climbed up on a ladder to get a better peek at the roof and I think I found another possible source for water leaks at the front. There is an old antenna mount at the front and all of the sealant has shriveled up around it.
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I think the smartest thing would be to remove the antenna mount altogether and place a patch panel over it. I'll let Martin make that decision


On a slightly different note, I lifted up the outdoor carpeting in Peanut's electrical compartment and found the hole for the shore power cord One more mystery solved!
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Old 07-24-2016, 02:14 PM   #344
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Greg, what piece of aluminum are you referring too?
To the left of the steering column. In one pic you see the finished product. In the other you see the part laying in the position it should have been installed. Oh well, it will still work fine. I wonder if it will cause fatigue in my left leg?
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Old 07-24-2016, 02:32 PM   #345
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I finally climbed up on a ladder to get a better peek at the roof and I think I found another possible source for water leaks at the front. There is an old antenna mount at the front and all of the sealant has shriveled up around it.

I had a similar situation with my tv antenna. I removed it and never looked back. You can see the details in post #54 in 'Countdown to Kickoff'.

I agree with your comments about the plastic tail lights. I had mine in and out a half a dozen times. I am not convinced I ever did get them sealed up. Finally just gave up and moved on to the next project. I strive for perfection but, sometimes you just have to take what you get. If you don't you will never get finished.
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Old 07-24-2016, 03:32 PM   #346
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To the left of the steering column. In one pic you see the finished product. In the other you see the part laying in the position it should have been installed. Oh well, it will still work fine. I wonder if it will cause fatigue in my left leg?
Ok, I see what you're referring too!

As for leg fatigue, hopefully .040" isn't enough to make a difference
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Old 07-24-2016, 03:40 PM   #347
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I had a similar situation with my tv antenna. I removed it and never looked back. You can see the details in post #54 in 'Countdown to Kickoff'.
I'm not a fan of anything that penetrates the roof. The less the better.


Quote:
I agree with your comments about the plastic tail lights. I had mine in and out a half a dozen times. I am not convinced I ever did get them sealed up. Finally just gave up and moved on to the next project. I strive for perfection but, sometimes you just have to take what you get. If you don't you will never get finished.
I guess the thing that amazes me is Airstream's are supposed to be considered high end yet they go and install something that is just plain cheezy. Stupid if you ask me.
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:51 PM   #348
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I finally climbed up on a ladder to get a better peek at the roof and I think I found another possible source for water leaks at the front. There is an old antenna mount at the front and all of the sealant has shriveled up around it.
Attachment 267635

I think the smartest thing would be to remove the antenna mount altogether and place a patch panel over it. I'll let Martin make that decision
I vote remove and patch!
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Old 07-24-2016, 05:16 PM   #349
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I vote remove and patch!
Being as you're the chairman of the board I believe your vote carries more weight than Ernie's and mine combined
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Old 07-31-2016, 01:26 PM   #350
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Here's a quick picture of the rear end cap. The rust around the rivets and along the edge of the cap was buffed off with Dremel Abrasive Buffs, the metal prepped with Rustoleum Reformer and then primed with Rustoleum Above The Water Line Primer using foam brushes. This is one coat of primer. I would think multiple coats of primer will need to be added and then sanded smooth. The key is not sanding through the primer to the Reformer coat.

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Apparently the front cap has been sanded down because this is what I found when I got home last night
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