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Old 07-07-2008, 11:06 PM   #1
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1959 18' "Footer"
Carbondale , Colorado
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Need help hooking up gas stove

Hi there,
I'm planning to re-plumb the gas oven in the picture for my 59 18'er. I have 2 tanks (I need to check the date on them) and the stove, that's all.

My plan is to:
Get a new regulator, run new line under the belly to come up underneath the stove, and hook into the back of the stove - it's that easy right?

Is there anything I need to be careful about (copper-vs-flexible lines)?
If in the future I install a furnace, I can tee off the single line underneath right?

Thanks a ton!
Jeph
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Old 07-08-2008, 12:17 AM   #2
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1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
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Propane lines should be kept underneath the trailer and come up through the belly skin and floor at the proper location of the appliance needing the gas. Propane is heavier than air if there is a leak or one develops, you want a minimum amount of copper line inside the trailer. You can T off from the stove line for the furnace underneath the trailer where it is accessible. You're on the right track.

Brad
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Old 07-08-2008, 12:17 AM   #3
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1959 22' Flying Cloud
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Seattle , Washington
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Hi Jeph,

I just completed re-plumbing my propane lines a few months back. Also, looks like we have the same trailer -- and the same Princess stove (if you have any extra burner rings, mine don't fit very well...).

I'd advise crawling around under a new A/S for some good ideas. Such as grounding the propane line to the steel frame. And running the long lengths of copper inside PEX tubing to protect it from bouncing rocks while on the road.

Also use a short hose from the regulator to the start of the copper line. I used 1/2" soft copper from Home Depot. You can get all the flare fittings and flare tool there. I would highly recommend the BrassCraft brand flare tool they sell there. I had a horrible experience with the flaring tool sold at Ace & True Value (Superior brand? -- far from it).

Make really sure you don't allow the copper to touch the belly skin or plywood floor. I used neoprene fender washers from True Value to keep the lines close the center of the holes as they travel through the floor. The washers got three screws around the perimeter to keep them in place.

For the stove, I added a gas shut off valve in the cabinet below the stove. That way the kids can't turn on the valves & let gas out while I'm not around.

You can cut line and add more T's as you need. I ran the 1/2" line as the main supply line from the hose attached to the regulator. As I needed a 3/8" line to T to another appliance, I flared in a 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8" T. The 3/8" line travels to the hole in the belly/floor. It bends (using the line bender sold at the hardware store) and travels to the appliance. The stove was the last appliance, so we reduced from 1/2" to 3/8" in an elbow.

If you have the opportunity to reuse the original refrigerator & furnace, I think you should. We were able to use ours and they really add to the original feel.

Be sure to test your system with air pressure & spray all fittings with soapy water. The leaks will bubble a little or a lot. I found leaks in ALL my fittings using the inferior brand flaring tool. Lesson learned. I gave the system 10 psi of compressed air from my gas line test gage attached to the regulator end of the propane hose.

Good luck!
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:54 AM   #4
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A tubing bender will make the job easier and can be found at home depot. you may want to consider double flares rather than the normal single.
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