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Old 07-16-2005, 03:56 PM   #1
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254 Automatic Changeover Regulator

I installed this regulator when the original Fisher began to leak. Since then I suffer from obvious low pressure. For example, the oven won't work when the cook top, or hot water heater is on. I'm unable to run two gas appliances at once, although I used to could do so before replacing the regulator. The AS service manual says that there should be 11 w.c. pressure, but I cannot locate the specs on the 254 to determine its output. There is a black plastic nut on the front of the second stage of the regulator. Is the 254 adjustable? Thanks!
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Old 07-16-2005, 04:14 PM   #2
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There's no adjustment for the user as far as I'm aware. To check for 11" of water pressure you could make your own manometer (do a forum search for "manometer" for instructions), or you can buy one from the manufacturer of the regulator at http://www.marshallbrass.com/pdf/Wat...er%20Flyer.pdf
If the regulator is within warranty, I would just swap it out. Good luck. Nick.
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Old 07-16-2005, 09:25 PM   #3
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any chance you changed your hoses to the tanks?

the reason i ask is because many of the green wrenchless connectors that folks use for attaching to opd tanks have a orifice in them to restrict flow.

my propane guy pointed this out to me when i was investigating changing hoses. the ones with the orifices are for bbq grills not a high volume use like a trailer lp system.

if you unscrew the connector and look at the end and see a pinhole for the gas to pass through you have the restricted hoses. normally they will have about an 1/8" hole.

hope this helps.

john
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Old 07-17-2005, 07:18 AM   #4
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John: Yes, I did change the hoses, and I think the restricting orifices are still inside. I remember seeing them. I think you solved my problem. I'll know soon. Thanks.
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Old 07-19-2005, 05:02 PM   #5
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Me too

Guys,

I came in late. I too used the new hoses after updating the valves on the propane tanks.
I noticed an orange flame in the furnace.
Is the solution to drill out the pin hole orifce at the Green connection?


Thanks
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:27 PM   #6
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Sounds like something I would do, but if you do, be EXTREMELY careful about blowing all the chips out before you reconnect it.

In fact, rinse it with water or isopropyl alcohol, and blow it out another time.

Your pilot jets can get clogged from debris, and they are a BEAR to remove & clean.

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Old 07-25-2005, 05:28 AM   #7
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John: The hoses did not have 1/8" restrictions, but the regulator itself comes with brass fittings in each inlet that have a restriction approximately that size. They are shown in this picture on this link: Are these the restricting orifices that you described earlier?
http://www.rvlifestyles.net/Parts.as...b-14a896a96c68.
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:55 AM   #8
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stripe,

no the restrictions would be in the hoses themselves. the restriction is in the green connector. i looked at the link you posted, i have not seen a regulator like those on an airstream before.

i have to wonder if they do not have a high enough btu or flow rating for your application. a call to the place you got it from would be in order. perhaps it is defective?

i can't imagine there would be a reason for it not to work right out of the box, your propane tanks are full and properly pressurized... right?

john
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:48 PM   #9
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John: Its new, out of the box, and I've seen them touted here on the forum as a suitable replacement for the Fischer. Its probably the wrong regulator for the application, but you don't get a lot of choices from the retailers for RV regulators. I'm consulting with a large propane shop today. Everything else checks out and the problem started when the regulator was changed, so I'm still focused on the regulator. Thanks for the input.
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:24 PM   #10
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stripe

try this page for fisher applications.

http://www.fisherregulators.com/lp/products/

perhaps it has the specs on the oem regulator...

john
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:39 PM   #11
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Wrong one

That's not a fischer, is it? It looks nothing like the one I bought from my propane distributer. I bought the R962 (comes with two pigtails) for around 90.00 from the local gas man.

If it is some other brand, be aware that there have been reports of the the other type failing "right out of the box..." some have just let go, with gas being diverted into the air.... not something I'd like to see. It looks like the Marshal Brass - they've been recalled in the past, but I still see some reports of the newer ones failing after purchase (see CW's reviews).

If it is a fischer, than I think you have the wrong part for the application. My distributer told me this (the R962) is the only one they have for our application.
Good luck.
Marc
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Old 07-26-2005, 10:16 AM   #12
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Thanks for all the help. After much studying, I discovered the solution yesterday. Modern propane valves have an excess flow valve that turns the supply down to a trickle when it detects a leak. When I opened ths system to install the new regulator the system became depressurized. When the tanks are hooked back up the excess flow valve interprets the rush of gas to fill the void in the depressurized system as a leak. It then goes into a leak prevention mode that again, only permits it to emit a small stream of gas. Therefore, my inoperational appliances. The solution is to pressurize ths system to obtain equilibrium on the excess flow valve. Only then will the excess flow valve permit normal flow of gas. There are two ways to pressurize: Turn the valve on and wait while the trickle of propane vapor pressurizes, or turn the valve off and on multiple times so that the tiny rush of gas that the excess flow valve permits to escape before shutting it down, pressurizes the system. Hope this helps others.
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