The Fun Begins

[moparjohn]

flip flops-YUCK! I don't like feet

[wasagachris]

Originally Posted by Breadbug

I'd take you up on that ticket for the chance to see your rig and park. And to learn from one of the best, but, this weekend is my 50th and I'm told I have big plans, darn it!

Ed/Breadbug

Ed you know of course I'm joking about the airfare, just expressing my real feelings about polishing.
One of the best? Really not sure about that. I read threads from the best and learn from them. Most of what I'm doing is all trial and error and believe you me I've made lots of errors doing this trailer. Next time HA what a laugh, I would do lots of things differently.
So any way happy 50th. How does it feel to be half a century old.

[filterman]

so whats the deal with axles failing? I dont get it? Shouldnt they stay straight? Can you straighten them out? Can you weld a flat bar on top of them to reinforce? Its like the axles fail becasue they are too small for the rig. Colin did I hear you say that you would deliver axels and install for free if I went through you he he Just kidding. I think cali is closer to me

[driftless]

Originally Posted by filterman

so whats the deal with axles failing? I dont get it? Shouldnt they stay straight? Can you straighten them out? Can you weld a flat bar on top of them to reinforce? Its like the axles fail becasue they are too small for the rig. Colin did I hear you say that you would deliver axels and install for free if I went through you he he Just kidding. I think cali is closer to me

filterman, here is an article about the axles under your airstream. I think it will answer all of your questions.

[wasagachris]

Originally Posted by filterman

so whats the deal with axles failing? I dont get it? Shouldnt they stay straight? Can you straighten them out? Can you weld a flat bar on top of them to reinforce? Its like the axles fail becasue they are too small for the rig.

Lew's got it covered with the link he posted.
Colin did I hear you say that you would deliver axels and install for free if I went through you he he Just kidding. I think cali is closer to me
Please don't drag me into a war about axles and vendors. I don't need the grief. I have no problem with either supplier. Both companies have their merits and I have expressed my preference.Location of the vendor does not matter as the axles are shipped from Indiana.
There are other alternatives (dexter axles etc )as well that are even more reasonable in cost but require some frame modifications.

[wasagachris]

Originally Posted by constructor

Darn Chris, you may be in cold country but having the indoor shop is fabulous! Don't know that the constructor and I have it in us to polish that deeply. VERY COOL. I think we need to plan a TAC rally for summer 2012 at your place so we all see your work 1st hand.

Ann I'm not sure I will be done polishing by the summer of 2012 let alone finish the entire trailer by then. Although if y'all came here I can stael some ideas from your designs.
If I can get it ready I would love to go to the TAC rally at WDW/Fort Wilderness in Nov 2012. That's a better idea than you coming up here to the great white north.
If you have read the entire thread you will know what I had to do in order to get the trailer into the shop. It's shoe-horned in and I had to cut open the back wall and notch the door to make it fit.

[Breadbug]

Chris, you have to share with us those things you would do different. We all learn so much by what has been done and would not be repeated.

Ed/Breadbug

[wasagachris]

Ed it's mostly the order of doing things and the realization of how long it actually takes to get the job done.
For instance I was trying to get the trailer sealed up and back outside for the winter, well I didn't get that done in time so plan B went into effect. I had to alter the building to get the trailer all the way inside. Now that I'm polishing all the sealer I diligently spent hours and hours carefully applying has to come off. If not the polishing wheel drags it out all over the skin and makes a real mess.
I would pull the shell using Colin Hydes method and not jack it up like I did.
I would build a device like he has to flip the frame upside down. That makes the insulation and belly installation so much easier. It was back breaking work drilling all the holes for the belly rivets while lying on the floor not to mention fighting with gravity while installing a 6 ft wide by 12 ft long piece of belly skin and not get it scratched up in the process.
I have learned so much about methods, tools, equipment and materials that I would now use or not use. Like I said trial and error.

[Breadbug]

Yeah, I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with building an apparatus for lift off and for flipping. I live in a house behind some apartments. My trailer is in a fenced in driveway. No problems for the neighbors yet. Once I build the apparatus things will get "seen" more. Then there is the frame out in the open drive being worked on and if I am to build another scaffold for flipping.....

We'll see. I really want to because things can be done so much more precise.

I can't wait for the guys to finish the negotiating with Zep about insulation. I really hate glass batting. I really want someone to come up with a formula that out performs the batting in R factor. The bubble foil looks so much neater and non absorbing but I wish it was also more insulating.

Do you know if the paint you used on your floor has any increase in R factor?

Would you epoxy paint the interior of the exterior walls if you do another trailer?

Ed/Breadbug

[filterman]

Ok got it. Thanks. Too bad we cant service these. I think I may have rear end separation instead of an axle problem will know tomorrow.

Originally Posted by driftless

filterman, here is an article about the axles under your airstream. I think it will answer all of your questions.

[filterman]

Only time will tell.

Originally Posted by Breadbug

Yeah, I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with building an apparatus for lift off and for flipping. I live in a house behind some apartments. My trailer is in a fenced in driveway. No problems for the neighbors yet. Once I build the apparatus things will get "seen" more. Then there is the frame out in the open drive being worked on and if I am to build another scaffold for flipping.....

We'll see. I really want to because things can be done so much more precise.

I can't wait for the guys to finish the negotiating with Zep about insulation. I really hate glass batting. I really want someone to come up with a formula that out performs the batting in R factor. The bubble foil looks so much neater and non absorbing but I wish it was also more insulating.

Do you know if the paint you used on your floor has any increase in R factor?

Would you epoxy paint the interior of the exterior walls if you do another trailer?

Ed/Breadbug

[wasagachris]

Ed For insulation I am going with two layers of Prodex spaced equally with an air space between the shell and the first layer, a second air space then the second layer and finally a third air space between the second layer and the inner panels. I will be using rigid foam for the spacers and they will be glued to the inside of the shell. The prodex will be glued to the spacers and sealed with the foil tape. Prodex will not absorb water and I have read about extreme heat popping the bubbles in other brands of bubble insulation. Prodex is different it is a closed cell foam with both sides covered in foil. It is easier to work with than bubble wrap. I don't need to over think this issue after all it's a trailer not the space shuttle.
The paint I used for the floor was from a company called Sani-tred. It is totally waterproof. It's actually liquid rubber. They use it for lots of applications like basements. boats, docks and even to make aquariums. It was very expensive, I mean really really expensive but I'm guaranteed the floor will never rot. Here is a link to their website. I don't know about any R value but maybe it's very thick.
DIY Wet Basement Waterproofing, Finishing & Flooring, Swimming Pool, Deck & Concrete Crack Repair, Roof & Industrial Floor Coating

I never gave any thought to epoxy painting the interior of the shell. What would be the purpose or benefit?

[wasagachris]

Originally Posted by filterman

Ok got it. Thanks. Too bad we cant service these. I think I may have rear end separation instead of an axle problem will know tomorrow.

Filterman I suspect you have both problems. Check the article on how to check your axles but most likely after 38 yrs they are toast.

[Breadbug]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

I never gave any thought to epoxy painting the interior of the shell. What would be the purpose or benefit?

I read somewhere that epoxy painting the interior of the exterior wall stops any trapped moisture from causing corrosion and lowers the temperature of the heat transferred into the first air chamber. I believe it also contributes to an increase in the R factor and sound deadening.

Ed/Breadbug

[filterman]

there is a thermal paint on the market for homes> it would have a small r value of like three to four if I remember right. it was about twice the cost of good housepaint I will see if I can dig it up. Painting the interior would help cut back on condensation a bit. Wasa I am going to do the same as you but I will use the thinner foil material and box it up but I think I will use the 3m adhesive to glue the strips together.Boat doc had a recommendation for adhesives with foam a while back.

[malconium]

Originally Posted by driftless

Thanks for the information on the vista view shades. I'm going to have to take a close look at mine because something doesn't look right. I know I'm missing the white plastic trim around the edges of the opening. Not sure what else may be missing.

I was at Menard's tonight and looked at an aluminum plank for spanning the AS roof, 13 foot long for $199. That would be ultra nice!!

Here's a link to the drywall lift from Northern Tool. I've used a rented one for 5/8" 4x12 foot sheets for ceilings. It says up to 16 foot sheets of drywall which I think is probably limited more by weight than length. Northern Industrial Drywall and Panel Hoist — 150-Lb. Capacity, 11ft. Lift | Material Lifts | Northern Tool + Equipment



Interesting illustration of the lift, as most people would rock the ceiling before the walls....

I was faced with the same problem of installing the inner skins on my 1973 31 foot unit - mostly by myself. It was not going be convenient to get a bunch of friends together at the times that I needed them so I got to thinking about ways to deal with the inner skins by myself or with some occasional help from my wife. I came up with a great trick for installing the long upper side panels that did not require using a lift. I did get some brief help from my wife but that was all. Check out my writeup in the following thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ins-30665.html

Also for anyone that does not know this it is possible to work directly on top of an Airstream. The trick is to use soft rubber knee pads and to make sure that you put your weight on the ribs - not in between them. I weigh in at about 250 lbs and the roof is well able to support me for all the things that I have done so far on top. You can also make a working platform if you wish that can sit on top of the trailer. As long as you build it so that the weight is bearing on the body ribs you will be just fine. The tops of our Airstream's are actually very strong. I have a metal folding ladder that I lean up against the side of the Airstream to climb up. I put some foam pipe insulation around the ladder sides for padding where they come in contact with the trailer. I typically lean the ladder against the top of window frames or against body ribs.

Malcolm

[filterman]

Heres the paint for the inside of stream.
Insuladd.com :: Home for Heat Reflective Paint Solutions

Insuladd® E-Coat can also flex over a wide temperature range (even bend 90° at -37°C), making it ideal for surfaces that will expand or contract due to heating and cooling. A roof with a coating of Insuladd® E-Coat will elongate, bend and recover without cracking or flaking damage

Test report shows that Insuladd when added to paint more than doubles the "Whole Wall Effect R-Value" in the majority of cases.

Originally Posted by filterman

there is a thermal paint on the market for homes> it would have a small r value of like three to four if I remember right. it was about twice the cost of good housepaint I will see if I can dig it up. Painting the interior would help cut back on condensation a bit. Wasa I am going to do the same as you but I will use the thinner foil material and box it up but I think I will use the 3m adhesive to glue the strips together.Boat doc had a recommendation for adhesives with foam a while back.

[driftless]

Hey, Chris, how's the polishing coming along? Any updates?

[wasagachris]

Hi Lew I will be posting more pics after the weekend is over.Right now I have to do about 12 sqft of roof and redo the door and front end cap plus go over the lower section below the blue trim to finish. With any luck I should have the curbside done this weekend. I'm hoping that the roadside goes a little faster as there are fewer obstructions like windows, compartments and doors. The lower section below the blue stripe is new skin so should polish up faster. if I total it up I think I will spend 200 hrs doing the curbside so maybe 150 hrs on the roadside. Then go over the whole thing twice more with the cyclo and Nuvite. I still need to do the entire rear end as I can't get at it now the way the trailer is in the shop, add more hours for the rear end and account for cyclo time and maybe total time will be along the lines of 600 hrs. I don't know why people say they love polishing, I hate it. My hands are starting to develop severe cramps from holding the polisher. After a couple of hours doing it my right hand starts to go numb from the vibrations and the left is developing a painful bruise in the palm and the middle finger feels like it is out of it's socket. Anyway back at it now, I do a couple of hours then break for 30 mins and start again.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

I don't know why people say they love polishing, I hate it. My hands are starting to develop severe cramps from holding the polisher. After a couple of hours doing it my right hand starts to go numb from the vibrations and the left is developing a painful bruise in the palm and the middle finger feels like it is out of it's socket. Anyway back at it now, I do a couple of hours then break for 30 mins and start again.

Be careful with that, Chris, it sounds like the kind of work that has the potential to cause carpal tunnel syndrome. My wife suffers from that and trust me, it is NO fun. Sounds like two hours could be too long before your break.

Sorry if it sounds like I'm poking my nose in where it's not needed, but until my wife had the symptoms, I had no idea how debilitating it can be.