Newbie.. 1999 Excella 1000 (TT) 34ft

[cwf]

Howdy..
I've located a 1999 Excella 1000, model TT in 34 feet length.
The whole trailer is in pretty good shape, with some concern around the exterior.

For example, the access panels for water and electrical are curved metal attached with hinges on the bottom and secured by latches on the top. The latches are pretty rough..

There is a 'kink' in the aluminum, just ahead of the wheel wells where the skin flexes inward, it is worse on the drivers side. It appears to be just above and behind the lower aluminum trim bar...

The trailer sat in Colorado and New Mexico a few winters where snow accumulated. There is some of the usual 'staining/darkening' of curtains but nothing appears to be on the walls, floor or ceiling.

The trailer appears to be very straight.. with only mild 'Airstream dimples on the rear curved portion where some hail apparently hit...

The rear bumper 'drawer' was rotted so the current (second) owner had it rebuilt in stainless steel.

The underskin appears to be intact.. no loose rivets noted...

The dual propane bottles are original, as is most of this unit. However, the propane hoses are quite rigid...

This pretty much covers the items of concern. So my questions:
- Does anyone have input, especially regarding an appropriate value?
- How about the deformities ahead of the wheel wells?
- Should I be concerned about the strength of the chassis?
- is this model wired to accept second AC unit? If 'not', can/how is wiring done?
- any other 'gotchas'?

Thanks in advance.. Channing

[Protohyp]

Deformities around wheel well typically point to rear end separation. Could be a simple fix based on the year but usually count on it being a big one to have to take on and correct

[cwf]

So, how would you verify/check this? Thanks in advance..

[Protohyp]

Look for the bumper to be separating from the shell.

If you see the subfloor in this area it has begun or has been happening. Your choice to run and hide but plenty of people take on these projects without batting an eye...but if this is the case be well aware that it is a big undertaking



This are below the rub rail (black strip) and the rear bumper should not be separated. Also if there are buldges at the wheel well like you describe then the shell is no longer supporting the frame and is bouncing in the air deforming right by the wheel wells

[Protohyp]

Do you have any pictures to show?

[dwightdi]

There are several causes that can cause that kind of bulge in the sidewalls. The outriggers that support the outershell could be corroded or bent. This causes the shell to settle over the frame. Another cause is a bent frame over the axles of the trailer. This is usually also part of the rear end separation problem. You should crawl under the trailer and sight down the straight axle mounting flange that is welded to the frame. If it is not straight, the frame has been bent. In some cases, the frame actually cracks above the axles. This is difficult to see without removing the wheels. The cracks can occur from a big shock or be caused by Flexfatique.

[Protohyp]

A little bit hard to tell from this picture but this is what dwightdi is talking about



And in this situation the crossmember did crack because the outward torquing of the rear end from bouncing on the road. Which by the same token caused the outriggers by the wheel well to bust through the floor. Surprisingly enough this didn't show too much deformation at the wheel wells as in this picture below



But it is subtle enough to the trained eye that it involves deeper inspection to these areas mentioned.


90% would walk away but 10% would become knowledgable if not already about this stuff and bargain away. If you're a weekend warrior on tooling this thing it will probably be a minimum of a years worth of work. Then again we could all be wrong and it might have just taken a bump by a car or tree and is otherwise in better condition. Again pictures would help

[cwf]

Thanks guys!
The underside is nowhere near that level of 'use' as in the pics. It is also 'dead straight' from what I could see... but, will need to pull it out and set up because that side is up against a bunch of rose bushes and not real easy to get a good eye on it.

I do have other pics which I will attach.. thanks for all the good info and advice.

My skills are in metalwork, carpentry, automotive, motorcycling.. and used/repaired trailers for boats and motorcycles. However, with the AS, I'm a total novice..

So. let me get some pics running... meanwhile i have asked the current owner to get some pics of the area for me..

[cwf]

mo pics

[Protohyp]

tough to see any bulge or damage that you describe in front of the wheel well could it be that they backed into those bushes? honestly looks good from the pictures but it's the things that you dont see that are scary. I would send an inspector over and they can access everything for you

[cwf]

So.. I called a local AS dealer.. they won't/don't do 'onsite' inspections..hmmm
Said I need to make appointment and take to them.. but, they only do inspection of the 'function', nothing with 'chassis' such as wheels, etc.. said not set up for it...? guess it's too hard???????????

[damonbeals]

We have a 98 31' and our latches are rusty too, you can get Stainless steel, drill out the rivets and replace them, I plan on doing this some year.

As for the skin wrinkle, our has a little wrinkle around the wheels too, I think it's just normal years of flexing, and ours has zero sign of rear separation or frame issues, but it's only a 31'.

Next time you inspect it, climb on the rear bumper and jump up and down, you should not see any gap form between the shell and the bumper.

Propane rubber lines are cheap and easy to replace.

Check for floor rot, that is biggest issue, take a ice pick and go around the edges of the floor and make sure you don't have any soft spots.

Damon
#4827

[Protohyp]

The inspectors are on this website just click on the portal page and on the right side there's a menu that says inspectors and find someone in your area that's willing to do it

[cwf]

Looks like today's the day.

[Aviator]

We have a '97 34' which is much the same as what you are looking at. Our latches rusted as well, and I replaced them with stainless. It is a simple job. We have several "wrinkles in the skin from normal flexing going down the road, and the occasional gas station tail drag. The trailer is still solid and leak free. I am very careful with her, but on our first couple of outings it was a learning experience. Also when backing and making a tight turn the rear axle wheel are forced to skid sideways which may also contribute to the skin ripple.