Modification w/ Ikea cabinet

[weirdstuff]

This is our latest brainstorm for a little mod in our Interstate.

Purpose is to get an extra storage cabinet, more counter space, and still maintain open floor space for our doggies.

1. Remove the 2nd row seat behind the driver seat.
2. Add a kitchen base cabinet from Ikea. Bolt to floor where seat bolts were. Cabinet dimensions are 24" wide x 24" deep x 30.5" high
3. Possibly cut the height down to keep it below the windows
4. Add double doors
5. Add a countertop that cantilevers out towards the driver's seat. And if the cantilevered counter top can be long enough, it can serve as a desk for when the driver's seat is swiveled towards the back.

We figured this would be a really inexpensive way to get what we want.

Our rig is in storage, so we weren't able to measure the space today. So not sure if the stock Ikea cabinet will be the right size.

The cantilevered counter top needs to be figured out so that it's structurally sound.

Ikea has stainless steel cabinet fronts and panels, so we'd probably do that for the cabinet. Maybe for the counter top too, and that would have to be custom made.

Anyone have any comments on this idea?

I'm assuming the added weight is no issue at all. We have the EXT version, no wardrobe. And I have a call in to Jim Parrott @ Airstream to talk to him about how to remove the seat, and about some other stuff too.

[Ron_CA]

My first thought is the 24" depth is going to be deeper than your existing cabinet which may or may not be a problem for you. I am guessing here as I don't have anything to measure. It may be pretty easy to cut down depending on how the Ikea cabinet is built. 30.5 inches is low for a base cabinet but may work out and be as low as the window but lower than your existing cabinet. This probably won't be an issue even if your countertop steps down a little. You would still gain extra counter space, might just be a little lower. Again guessing on height, will need for somebody to chime in that can actually measure theirs.

The cantilevered top idea is good for more counter space but will be too high for a table for driver seat. May need to do something similar to what airstream does and have a slide out or hinge on the side of the cabinet so you can lower the countertop height.

Another thought is to ask airstream if they can sell you or tell you the maker/ manufacturer of your color countertop and have a top made to match your existing. Corian or whatever brand solid surface countertop is not that difficult to work with so can easily be made to match if that is what you want. If you go with stainless steel, I know an excellent metal fabrication shop in east county that could make you exactly what you want.

[weirdstuff]

Ron,

Thanks for your input. I need to get out to Spring Valley to our storage facility and measure everything.

You're probably right about the 24" cabinets sticking out too far, and we don't want that. Not sure if they can be cut down. The Ikea wall cabinets are only 13" deep, so that might be a better option (have to see if our dog food container will fit).

If we go with stainless counters, I'll get the name of the fabricator you mentioned. And, will measure the height as it relates to the driver's seat too. Like your idea of making that part of it as a fold out, at the correct height for the driver's seat.

We could have AS do the counters when we're there in July, but, if we go with stainless for the cabinet door, we'll probably stick with stainless counter. It'd be lighter weight too.

Dang, I need to live somewhere else so that FIONA can live with us!!

[Airtandem]

I have been to Ikea several times and impressed with their product. When I was going to ship some furniture by moving company, they asked if any was Ikea . The company said they would NOT insure it as it does NOT hold up to moving.
Has anyone had problems with using Ikea in their remodels?
Mike

[weirdstuff]

My house is full of Ikea furniture, and it's surprisingly sturdy. I have 5 cabinets with glass doors that I got there almost 15 years ago, and have moved them twice.

However, while recently moving our office to San Diego, one of our big Ikea cabinets got crushed in the moving van. It was made of laminated particle board, and had too much weight on the side when we loaded the van (too many boxes on top of it).

I guess it depends which pieces you have and how they're made. Their kitchen cabinets seem really solid, which is why we thought they'd work well in the Interstate.

[Ron_CA]

Buying off the shelf may be easier and less expensive, but what you are looking for is not hard to build. May want to take your measurements and then have a cabinet company build to your exact dimensions. Again unless you are completely sold on the stainless steel idea, you could find out what brand of laminate Airstream uses to cover the cabinets and likely match what you have.

Your stainless countertop will have to be mounted to 3/4" plywood or something for support or else it wouldn't be very strong either. So weight probably wouldn't be much of an issue either way. The chair you are removing probably weighs as much or more than the cabinet you are proposing.

[weirdstuff]

Ron, we were thinking the same thing, about just having a box custom built to exact size. Can't be too hard or expensive...it's just a box!

AS told me that we could order materials through a dealer, if we want exact same materials. Not sure which way we want to go on this.

[73shark]

IKEA stuff does not move well assembled but is like a solid block when packaged. It doesn't cut down well due to using a cam and screw construction. FWIW, the existing countertop is slightly above the bottom edge of the windows.

Unless they've changed the chair attachment, it's not easy to remove because the nuts aren't captured and are inaccessible due to tanks, etc. Jim P. could probably advise you on this.

[weirdstuff]

Originally Posted by 73shark

Unless they've changed the chair attachment, it's not easy to remove because the nuts aren't captured and are inaccessible due to tanks, etc. Jim P. could probably advise you on this.

I'll ask Jim for advice. We'd have to remove it before we leave home, 'cause if we had Jackson Center do it, we'd have no place to store it.

I know there was a whole thread here about removing the seats, and the issue with the bolts. And there were some people who were able to do it, so there must be a way!!

[73shark]

Originally Posted by weirdstuff

And there were some people who were able to do it, so there must be a way!!

Sawzall and cutting torch come to mine.

[weirdstuff]

Originally Posted by 73shark

Sawzall and cutting torch come to mine.

haha!!! Serious?! No!!! Thank goodness we live in a high rise and husband no longer owns power tools!

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by weirdstuff

1. Remove the 2nd row seat behind the driver seat.
2. Add a kitchen base cabinet from Ikea. Bolt to floor where seat bolts were. Cabinet dimensions are 24" wide x 24" deep x 30.5" high
3. Possibly cut the height down to keep it below the windows

Probably more expensive than Ikea, but probably a better fit as well, go to a Winnebago dealer, and get their wardrobe closet, which bolts in place of the second-row driver's-side seat in the Winnebago ERA and is about the same height as the galley countertop.

We won't tell anyone you're using a Winnebago cabinet if you don't!

[weirdstuff]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Probably more expensive than Ikea, but probably a better fit as well, go to a Winnebago dealer, and get their wardrobe closet, which bolts in place of the second-row driver's-side seat in the Winnebago ERA and is about the same height as the galley countertop.

We won't tell anyone you're using a Winnebago cabinet if you don't!

Really?? I'll go to Winnebago this weekend and check it out! THX.

[Ron_CA]

Noooooooo, not Winnebago. j/k

The fresh water tank is right below that seat. Just looked at some underneath shots I took. There is a sewer crossover tube leading to the macerator and right in front of that is the fresh water tank. If you look at the outside it will make sense. Now it may be painful (expensive & or time consuming), but if they put it in, it can come out. There are some bolts I see in the picture too, not sure if the right ones though.

Posting pics from my iPad is a pain, if you want to PM me your email again, I can send the pic to you and maybe you can post it.

[73shark]

Originally Posted by Ron_CA

Now it may be painful (expensive & or time consuming), but if they put it in, it can come out.

They might put the seat in before they mount the tanks.

[Ron_CA]

Oh I am sure they probably did hence the painful part. Pull the tank out then the seat, reverse.

[weirdstuff]

Jim at AS hasn't called me back, so I will call again on Friday and get to the bottom of this!!

[weirdstuff]

Just talked to Jim at AS. He told me it's super easy to remove the seat.

You just remove the 4 bolts, pull seat out. Then, there's some kind of bracket and slide left. Slide the nuts toward the front of the coach, then use pliers to remove them.

OK, I might not have that exactly word for word, but it's something like that, and he assured me it's super easy. He did say that the only "danger" is if you do lose the bolts in the process, that they become trapped in the floor and will probably rattle around when you drive.

We might have a go at it this weekend. If so, will report back to you.

[73shark]

Like you would notice a new rattle with the cacophony of ambient noise already present in these rigs.

[weirdstuff]

Originally Posted by 73shark

Like you would notice a new rattle with the cacophony of ambient noise already present in these rigs.

Husband said to give you +10 points for the use of the word cacophony.

Like you said, you might not even notice it. And if you do, well, that's why the stereo volume goes up to 10 (or is it 11?!).