Install an inertial brake controller inside the AS as a theft prevention device?

[Bob Blarney]

Hello, I'm nearing completion of renovations, and in the past year or so that the AS has been sitting in my front driveway, several guys have stopped and offered to buy it on the spot. I haven't had any bad vibes about them (with their wives and kids in the car). But I think it may be wise to consider security options. While it's in my driveway, it is covered under my homeowners policy, but it might be wise for me to learn if insurance company's idea of the value is similar to my idea of its value.

That said, after reading about coupler locks, wheel locks/chocks, jack modifications, and a few other things, it seems that mechanical locks may deter but ultimately might not be the most effective methods. A GPS system is likely a good idea but that still has drawbacks. What I have in might be just the thing at a very reasonable cost.

What if I installed an ordinary inertial brake controller inside the trailer, such as installed in a tow vehicle? I would power it through the breakaway circuit/7-way plug charging line (or some other backup system), and set it to maximum sensitivity. And just for fun, I might connect up a loud AH-OOOGAH horn too. My thought is that the brakes would lock up at the slightest acceration/decelerlation and the horn would goose them too. Perhaps I could make a secondary circuit that would lock the brakes for some period of time after stopping, say 15-60 seconds.

It might be fun to jerk a thief around a few times. Do you have any opinions as to the workability of my scheme?

[perryg114]

Well you just need to tie the break away cord to something and when that pin is pulled, the brakes will lock up. I guess you can tie in a horn to the braking circuit as well. If you can park a car in front of it, that would stop them.



Perry

[Bob Blarney]

Originally Posted by perryg114

Well you just need to tie the break away cord to something and when that pin is pulled, the brakes will lock up. I guess you can tie in a horn to the braking circuit as well. If you can park a car in front of it, that would stop them.



Perry

A good idea, assuming that a thief doesn't notice the switch hookup before or after a towing attempt. How long can the brakes be locked up before damage occurs to the brakes, battery, or something else?

[perryg114]

I expect till the battery dies but 4 magnets is cheaper than a new trailer.



Perry

[drbrick]

There are several very good Coupler Vaults out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Proven-Indust...ateway&sr=8-22

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Vault-...ateway&sr=8-15

https://www.amazon.com/MegaHitch-Loc...ateway&sr=8-35

As a second defense use a "Locking Carabiner Quick Link Chain Connector" so you can remove the chain off the AS

This make it almost impossible to tow the AS ... if you are really paranoid you can also add wheel locks such as...

https://www.amazon.ca/Trimax-TCL65-W...s%2C221&sr=8-2

I would suggest that the AS will stay where you put it

[fwjumper]

I'm not sure your homeowner's insurance would cover it for theft or damage. It would cover you for liability if somehow the camper caused an injury to a neighbor or their property. I'd check on that again.
Your brake idea might work, but the brakes would kill a battery quickly and could probably be easily defeated. I'd use one of the usual options or just take a wheel or two off of it.

[JohnTF]

Electric brakes are not meant to be on for periods - they will over heat & die .
Then as mentioned , batteries will not last long either .
A hitch lock is a good choice .
Security / locks - in that line of work - the saying is " there is no lock that will keep out any / everyone .
Even with a hitch lock , a tow truck could put a hook on & be gone in about 10 - 15 sec.

[GammaDog]

As for your insurance question... you may want to talk to your insurer or their agent about a “stated value” policy. For unique items where there is a potential for disagreement between the insured and the insurer in the event of a loss, it is often preferable for the owner to state the value and for the insurer to define the premium associated with that value. Lacking that agreement, you would probably be pleased with the premium and disappointed on the amount you’d receive if your vintage Airstream was a total loss.

[SilverWind]

1. Buy this incredible wheel lock. http://brahmalock.com/?gclid=EAIaIQo...SAAEgJqGvD_BwE

2. Have a professional appraisal done.

3. Purchase a stated value insurance policy from Foremost (owned by Farmers).

[thomasg]

Could put a electric flasher in the circuit. When activated brakes come on then release......

[guskmg]

On electric/hydraulic brakes the brakeaway switch will not conduct (handle) a full brake power load for more than a few minutes before destroying itself due to overload (as in burn up). Then, no brakes. It is a weakness of the breakaway switch design and to my knowledge they have not been redesigned. I had gone through 4 or 5 before I figured out the switch would not handle the electric hydraulic motor load at full power for more than a few minutes.
guskmg

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by guskmg

On electric/hydraulic brakes the brakeaway switch will not conduct (handle) a full brake power load for more than a few minutes before destroying itself due to overload (as in burn up). Then, no brakes. It is a weakness of the breakaway switch design and to my knowledge they have not been redesigned. I had gone through 4 or 5 before I figured out the switch would not handle the electric hydraulic motor load at full power for more than a few minutes.
guskmg

This might depend on the actuator. I still have the OEM actibrake actuator. When I am bleeding the brakes or exchanging the fluid, I just pull the pin. The actuator will only run for about 20 seconds then shuts off and holds pressure. When the bleeder is opened, pressure drips and the actuator cycles again. This does not hurt the breakaway switch.

[perryg114]

You could put a horse fencer on the shell.



Perry