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Old 12-07-2012, 09:37 AM   #29
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I definately could feel the play... especially in my sway control. I use Reese WD with Dual Cam sway control, st the hutch was wobbling, I was ezperiencing a little sway in the rear end, and the hitch was always trying to center the trailer. After a test the other night, I feel fery straight, and no wiggling around now. For me it is a day and night difference.
I never had any play at the pin of the drawbar, everything was tight there, it was just super sloppy in the receiver box.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:20 AM   #30
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This topic is really about the looseness of a drawbar in a receiver, and the issues that presents, and I have found the looseness reduces the effectiveness of your hitch's sway control system. And, this applies to any anti-sway hitch or devise, because in the end, the hitch cannot perform any better than the joint between it and the tow vehicle.

I have tried in the past making shims to reduce the play, and I've tried drilling holes, welding nuts and inserting set screws. They were both marginally successful. However, the shim was quickly beat thinner, and the set screws quickly loosened, not matter how tight, or how much Locktite I used on the screw, and I used first 1/4", and then 3/8" with the same results.

My latest and most successful work is welding a flat on both ends of the drawbar where it goes into the receiver, and then slowly grinding down the weld so the fit between the drawbar and receiver is snug. This has been working well for me for about a year now, but is a considerable amount of work, must be done on a "one of" basis, and I realise not everyone has the equipment, patience, and ability to do it.

Just my experiences.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:40 AM   #31
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I have the forged steel Reese drawbar; it is no tighter than the solid steel bars. I would have welded it, but you can't easily do that, and my welding skills don't include heating metals to white hot etc etc!

Whay can't the mfgrs. gust get this right? As I see it, these newer hitches are a real safety concern for us!

In the old days (10 years ago) stuff just fit! I had a Range Rover whose receiver fit any drawbar like a glove, and the Brits aren't known for close tolerances!
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:44 AM   #32
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My latest and most successful work is welding a flat on both ends of the drawbar where it goes into the receiver, and then slowly grinding down the weld so the fit between the drawbar and receiver is snug. This has been working well for me for about a year now, but is a considerable amount of work, must be done on a "one of" basis, and I realise not everyone has the equipment, patience, and ability to do it.

Just my experiences.
I did the same thing and it works well. I have to use a spray lube on the drawbar because it fits so tight in the receiver. The only downside is that the drawbar doesn't work in other hitches since it has been customized. Before I fixed the drawbar I noticed that the pin hole in receiver was becoming wallowed out and there was wear on the hitch pin.
There must be a lot more slop built into current day receivers. I had a Drawtite receiver on my 86 Jeep pickup and every drawbar fit perfectly snug - never any slop.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:44 AM   #33
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Whay can't the mfgrs. gust get this right? As I see it, these newer hitches are a real safety concern for us!
The one word that comes to my mind is cost, but I suspect they are afraid they'll get the tolerance too close and some won't fit at all.

Not sure if it's true or not, but I read somewhere the hitch receiver manufacturers are using imported steel which is made to metric standards?

If so, this would answer the "why" question.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:56 AM   #34
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I recently had a Reese HD WD ball mount fail (through a crack in the casting). I was on the phone with a Reese engineer and we were discussing this issue (sloppy fit). He told me it wasn't due to Chinese tolerances or the like, rather the auto manufacturers were specing the receiver tubes to be oversized... the mfgrs were finding as people left the drawbars installed long term, they would rust, and rust solid, then during the warranty, period, would have to be replaced. So they made them bigger, and the after market companies made their products undersized so nothing would fuse solid, hence our current epidemic of sloppy fitting tow gear.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:05 PM   #35
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Are you putting the shim on the top or bottom of the receiver?
Top

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GENERAL QUESTION FOR THE THREAD:

Can anyone actually "feel" the "slop" in the hitch when under towing conditions?

My sense is that I feel the "slop" at low speeds (forward and backing-up)...
Not with the AS, 1200#TW, only get movement/noise when boat towing, 200#TW.


Bob
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:36 AM   #36
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Atomic: Did you go thru these guys in Sunnyvale, CA?
Mailing Address:
Hitch Rider Racks
360 East Evelyn Ave #400
Sunnyvale, CA 94040
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:36 AM   #37
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Yes that's them!
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:47 PM   #38
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I'm going to try it... Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:04 PM   #39
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Be advised there are 2 different styles of the same vice... One has a provision to allow proper hook up of safety chains. It is simply a notch on the rear face which allows a little extra space to hook up the safety chains to the receiver hooks.
The other does not. If you look at my photos, you can see the notch. If you look at the factory installation video, you'll see theirs doesn't have the notches.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:27 AM   #40
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Hey Atomic:

I got the model for the GMC factory hitch. The package should arrive this week - will know then if they shipped the right one. Planning a trip to the "Q" and Death Valley this month - looking forward to trying out the vice...

OBTW: Did you get a nice dump last night in Telluride? We got a couple inches here...
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:33 AM   #41
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Great!
Share your experience.

Dunno... in Key West for the next month or so....
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:44 PM   #42
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I only needed to stabilize my front bike carrier to haul 4 bikes when wanted so my light duty 'home made hitch vise' should be adequate.

The U BOLT mentioned in the previous post (3") is too short for anything other than this light duty application. You need at least 3.5" and preferably 4" of length on the U bolt to make a HD hitch vise.

I cut up and drilled a scrap piece of 1/4" Aluminium plate for my application. 8" x 4.5".
This allows tension on the draw bar 4" forward of the U bolt and overlaps the hitch mount and snugs everything up.

For those who require the hitch vise for regular towing I recommend, for the price, you invest in the real deal to avoid using up valuable camping time.

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Working on mine today. U bolt available at any hardware store $1.25.
DYL65181 3/8 X 2 X 3".

This is a light duty bolt but should do the job I need it to do to help stabilize the bike carrier. Just have to find a scrap piece of Aluminium to complete the vise.

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