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Old 02-13-2019, 02:00 AM   #15
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Posts: 219
I learned something here. Did not know about the RF controller. OP please disregard post #7.

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Old 02-13-2019, 04:18 AM   #16
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2017 22' Sport
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Yes, you guys nailed it! Sorry I didn't include a photo, but the trailer is in storage for the Chicago winter!

I learned a lot from your experience. Thanks again!


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Old 02-13-2019, 05:57 AM   #17
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2007 30' Classic S/O
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Ok what did you find or figure out?

That’s how the forum learns, feedback.
S/OS #001
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Carslile Actuator, Equal-i-zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook.
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:30 AM   #18
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2017 16' Sport
Cutler Bay , FL
Join Date: Apr 2018
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Originally Posted by lahrfarm View Post
I’d just remove the trailer mounted and use the truck. The built in controllers work great.
That is what I did!! Works great.
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:06 AM   #19
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NCR , Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,125
we use the Tekonsha P4 on our audi q5 pulling a 22FB
we also use sway control and WD

the three work like a charm
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:50 AM   #20
Tom T
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Orange , California
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 649
Originally Posted by eva52 View Post
That is what I did!! Works great.

Eva52 - no need for you nor the OP to remove the trailer mounted RF controller - just disconnect it from the 7-pin.

It's a bonus for a future buyer if/when you sell the trailer - even if you never use it yourself.

BTW folks - I disconnect my RF on the trailer to connect to the brake switch on my power dolly every time at home. There is NO / ZERO conflict when disconnected.



Tom T (janabanana48's other half )
Orange CA
1960 Avion T20, #2 made, Hensley Cub, TV tbd- looking for 08-14 Cayenne S
1988 VW Vanagon Westfalia CamperGL (Orig Owner) + 1970 Eriba Puck
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