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Old 02-10-2019, 07:05 PM   #57
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Went with Reflectix for the first layer against the skin.
I do not believe the company claims of r value even with the air spacing, etc.
But to each his own.
I did go ahead and use it in case the claims of refecting heat are true.
Electric will go in next and then the rest will be filled with rock wool


Next will post pics of belly skin, axles, and electric wires
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:12 AM   #58
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How hard is it to replace the floor with the shell on. Seems like it would be hard to get plywood in. The exterior skin on the sides of mine wraps to belly, so install from inside?
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:58 PM   #59
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If I had it to do over, I would do a shell off. Especially since I have a barn and rafters.

But, no it is not hard.
Now for my opinion on proper floor replacement.
You must remove the rivets holding your wrap down. You have to be able to put bolts in the c channel and outriggers.
I think you should remove the entire belly pan so that you can bolt the floor to the cross members. Others say you can screw it down.
The con of bolting is that you now have to insulate from the bottom and put up the belly pan.

When you remove the floor, put in spacer blocks to keeps the c channels off the outriggers
I would keep the back 8 foot attached to original until you get the front 1 or 2 pieces of new floor in. This way the channels does not move off the frame cockeyed, etc.

The area you are working on is NOT bolted to anything at the time you are working on it. Thus the ribs and skins will bow out as you rotate in the full width pieces of floor.

The back 2 pieces were the hardest. but they did go in.
I did have to jack up the c channel a bit. to reduce the friction of sliding in the piece.

But they all went in from the inside.

Center area between the wheel wells last
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:59 PM   #60
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Be sure to measure the width carefully, it is easy to think it needs to be shorter, and then the floor is only running half way under the c channel
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:00 PM   #61
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New LED marker lights
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:01 PM   #62
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some wiring pics. It is not as sloppy as it looks in the pics
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:07 PM   #63
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My battery's will be behind the curb side bed, and the distribution box will be on the other side in the bathroom cabinet above the water heater.

Battery is connected by a 2awg wire on the positive side. I also ran a 4 awg for the ground from the battery to the distribution box. even though it is grounded to the ribs.

Convertor will be on the distribution side. it charges the battery thru the same 2 awg wire.

Future solar will run direct to the battery ( I ran two 8 awg wires for this. research, you may want 6 or 4 awg )
Future invertor ( if ever) will install next to battery. Then a spare 110 12 guage wire set runs over to the distribution box to be hooked to whatever 110 breaker I want to energize
the 12 guage can handle 20 amp

Power monitor. The monitor will be on the distribution side. but the shunt will be on the negative part of the battery on the battery side.
small wires will run from the shunt to the monitor.

I went overboard and used armored cable for the 120 ac lines.
and 12 awg stranded from the dc side with grommets in the holes.
I also home runned dc ground lines to the back area even though the skin is a ground.

for the fridge area, it got ac line, 12 awg for control board or ignitor, etc. and a 10 awg ( under a 20ft run ) for 12 volt power if the fridge is a 3 way. ( however, I plan to only have a 2 way.)
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:59 PM   #64
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Holy Cow! Reading your progress report made me very tired. You've been one busy Airstream renovator. I really like the way your repaired the Olympic rivets. I have a lot of them in my trailer too for some reason. Accident damage? Tree fell on it. Who knows. Olympic rivets are an easy decorative rivet, but nowhere near a strong as a bucked rivet. You added value to your trailer.

I hear you on reflectix. I see it used in windows of campers on hot summer days. Rockwool is very good stuff.

Thanks for the tips on body on subfloor installation. That too is not an easy job.

And thanks for spending the time describing your renovation project. It will be helpful to others doing a 69 Airstream.

David
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Old 02-11-2019, 08:17 PM   #65
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How come nobody does closed cell spray foam?
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Old 02-12-2019, 09:51 AM   #66
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I am 100% against spray foam.
Not becaurse of r value.
Only because i would not want to be the next owner, opening up my walls and finding that i need to remove the foam
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Old 02-12-2019, 07:26 PM   #67
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Actually Airstream used some type of spray foam insulation under the subfloor back in 1968. I agree with Dremel, it is a bear to remove. Some Airstreamers feel it is not good in RVs that are subject to lots of vibration.

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Old 02-13-2019, 05:05 AM   #68
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I havenít decided what insulation I want to use. I do agree with the point about spray being an issue to remove. I am however doing my work for me, not the next guy. I am also doing the first major work in 50 years, and strongly doubt it will ever be done again to this Airstream. I would also agree that, if you use open cell foam, it may break down over time from forces like vibration. I donít believe a true closed cell will.
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:11 PM   #69
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Backing up to A/C. I assume your leaving 1 old one, and will eventually replace with new one in same hole. Does anyone have thoughts about to on a 69 Ambassador? If so, the rear vent doesnít seem to be in a good spot. The original is about dead center. So, would you have to completely make new location for both? Would it be worth the effort?
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:34 PM   #70
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Two ACs may required 50 amp service. That is a big project in itself. I wonder if a 15,000 BTU AC would be enough to cool an Ambassador 29'. I think a white heat reflective roof might help too.

Aluminum Airstreams are a bear to heat and cool compared to some other campers on the market. Two ACs is a factory option from Airstream on some of their bigger units.

David
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