Originally Posted by Re-Pete
...I'll post the answers when I find them or questions if I get stuck....
I promised to return and post about my efforts to fix this problem. I finally got back to my Tanks Monitor issue and I'm happy to say the rocker switch seems to be fixed. Some pictures are included.
After taking the range hood down I discovered that the front panel just pops out. I didn't want to force it before that, but once I had the hood down it became apparent that the front panel must come out, as the compartment concealing the back side of the panel is sealed closed.
To remove the panel, slide the panel up first by pushing either the opposite upper corners or the lower corners. Then from the bottom of the panel use a flat bladed screw driver to aid you in carefully popping the bottom out of the opening. Once the bottom is out pull down and the entire panel is slides out exposing the backside with the circuit board, wiring, switches and connections.
Once the back was exposed it was just a matter of disconnecting the wires from the switch (kill the batteries first) and pushing it out from behind through it's opening in the panel. Then I cleaned the wiring contacts on the switch. I used electronic contact cleaner I purchased from Radio Shack and a small metal nail file to clean the contact tabs (thanks Don you were right
Since the switch is a sealed unit, I sprayed the contact cleaner around the rocker portion of the switch to reach the contact area within the switch. I reinstalled the switch tested it and it worked immediately and properly.
The entire panel popped out with the
backside exposed and open for business.
The first switch on the left was the
I did not take pictures of the panel removal, but here are a couple showing how it goes back.
Tabs like this lock in the top of the Monitor
To reattach the panel I just reversed the
process pushing the top into place first sliding
it up and then pushing the bottom in and
sliding the entire panel down.
As long as I held pressure on the switch the LED lights remained on. So, that issue was fixed, but that did not guarantee the remote monitors themselves were working properly.
Here is where I am with that at this point. I inspected the black tank with a flashlight through the toilet. I could clearly see an uneven surface in the light, which I will call crud. As Bill had informed me my Black water tank was crud-ed up (my words).
Because I already had them, at this point I'm soaking both black and gray tanks with digestive enzymes that claim to digest this type of problem in about 12 hours. I plan to give them about 48. If that doesn't get it pretty clean, and if my Black tank sensors do not seem to be working properly then I'll do the Geo-clean Bill recommended when we trek to a small informal rally in mid September.
More good news so far is, the black tank, the gray tank and the fresh tank all registered the additional water I added. I used a bucket so I could roughly measure the amount of water I was adding, except to the fresh tank.
The black tank which was empty took approximately 30 gals to fill, the moniotr had read 2/3 full before I began filling and never changed until I began nearly the tanks capacity, which then it went from flickering on full to solidly lit.
Next i did the same thing with gray tank. Even empty it was reading 1/3 full. Bucket by bucket I filled the tank until the 2/3 full light lit, then until the full light lit. (same as the black tank, both the 2/3 and full lights flickered as the water level approached them and then turned solidly lit as those levels were reached, corresponding with the amount of water I was measuring in.
The fresh tank was reading 2/3 full and I assumed that was about right as i had filled it but not completely before. I topped of the fresh and the full light lit.
I intend to drain the tanks, over the next couple of days beginning with the fresh tank and monitor the lights as I go. I'll post my results.