Univolt Location

[guy99]

Hello everyone,

I have an 84 310 Limited MH. The Battery drawer is badly rusted out (previous attempts to repair it have been made by riveting a new floor into it). Due to a recent parking lot mishap, the MH is in the body shop having the entire battery drawer replaced (including the front of the box and the left side beltline molding).

My understanding is that the damage to the interior of the battery box is the result of the Univolt boiling the acid in the batteries causing acid to be spread all over the floor of the battery box.

So, I have ordered an 80 amp Intelipower with charge wizard from Progressive Dynamics. My intention is to replace the Univolt and the 12 volt fuse panel.

Two questions:

1. Does this seem like a good idea?

2. What is the best way to access the Univolt?

TIA

[rluhr]

Having replaced two vintage Univolts with Intellipowers, I can't see a good reason not to do it. The old Univolts --at least the ones in my 60s and 70s model trailers -- were lousy battery chargers, hummed, were heavy, and took up much more space. I'm assuming your 1984 model is not much better.

You'll have more options for mounting the Intellipower, too (can go on the wall if necessary). And it won't boil your batteries. But you'll still want a 12v fuse panel.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Rich.

How can you compare 30 to 35 year Univolts to some thing made today, such as the Intellipower, or for that matter, the solid state univolt Airstream has used for the last several years?

My 1973 Buick Electra, that I owned over 30 years ago, is a sad excuse for my 2002 Buick Park Avenue.

By your standards, does that make all the old cars junk, when they were new?

My point is I have difficulty comparing 30 year old technology, with todays.

Therefore when you make reference to a Univolt humming, etc, how about letting others know "what model" Univolt, so they can make a comparison as well.

Then we could also say, that by todays standards of an Airstream, all the old ones are junkers, and worthless? We both know that's not the case.

Lets compare like with like, in fairness to all.

Andy

[rluhr]

I was of course speaking of the vintage Univolts.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Rich.

I know you were talking about old Univolts.

But new comers don't know that.

Again, in fairness to aye or nay any product, Airstream or others, we should be very specific, so that new comers can make a choice, fairly.

Andy

[rluhr]

Fair enough. I'll edit my post accordingly.

[guy99]

Can anyone tell me where the Univolt is located on an 84 310 Limited?

[thenewkid64]

One of two locations:

Either it is under a box cover that is carpeted next to the passenger side seat, or it is in the cabinet next to the refrigerator. It will be within approx. 10 feet of the battery drawer to limit line loss. If you know where the main RV fuse panel is, it will be close to that.

[68 Overlander]

Guy99,
The answer to your first question is yes...It's a good idea to upgrade to the Intel-Power that you purchased, but I don't know where your converter is located in the 84 Motorhome, sorry.
For the new comers...The debate occasionally comes up between the Univolt and Inteli-Power. Let me just say that I sell over 100 Inteli-Power units to one MagneTek (now Parallax) because of the three stage charging capability with the included Charge Wizard. It's true that Airstream recommends the Parallax but it's simply because it's the one they use. There is nothing special about it and there is no industry proof that it is more reliable, in fact, Progressive Dynamics claims in their literature that the Intel-Power IS the most reliable. Their claim... not mine.
The output on the Parallax is a constant 13.8 volts and although will not necessarily boil the batteries, it does require more vigilance in checking and adding water to prevent it. They do have a T1 version that most dealers don’t carry but that still makes it only a two and not three-stage charger.
With the storage mode feature of the Inteli-Power, the normal mode of 13.6 is reduced to 13.2 volts after 30 hours of non-use. (Non-use is defined as less then ½ volt fluctuation over 30 hours) It also has the boost mode of 14.4 volts that is extremely useful for dry camping or generator use and will recharge a battery bank to approximately 90 percent in a few hours rather then days. Best of all, it’s fully automatic with a manual override button if you desire a particular mode of charging.
I have both in stock all the time and don’t mind which one people buy, but I can tell you that even though I love everything about airstreams, I prefer Inteli-Power to Parallax.

[guy99]

Thanks to everyone for all the information. My 80 amp inteli-power with charge wizard arrived today. (I got he 80 amp in case I later decide to add more coach batteries - currently I have two).

My 12 volt fuse panel is on the floor near the refrigerator, so I assume the univolt is near there. I'll see the coach on Thursday and assume I'll quickly find it.

Will the Inteli-power function correctly with Gel or sealed batteries or do I need to stick with lead-acid deep cycle batteries?

[68 Overlander]

It will function fine except you need a calibrated Charge Wizard for the gel cell. We have them in stock. Your dealer might have them too but most don’t because they don’t know about them. They are the same price as the standard CW (or should be). Wet cell (lead acid including AGM) uses the standard CW but if you have gels, you need the other one calibrated for Gels.

[guy99]

First, Randy, sorry I didn't buy my Intelipower from you. I didn't realize someone on the forum was selling them.

Hope you'll answer some questions anyway:

1. I got everything all wired up to install the new unit and went to plug it in. That is when I noticed that it has a funny plug - one of the blades on the plug is vertical and one horizontal. Looks like the plug on my table saw (which is 220 v). Unit says it takes 120 volt input. So what should I do, replace the plug? ...?

2. The place I want to mount the charge wizard is futher away from the unit than the charge wizard cord is long - can I just cut the wire and splice in some more wire?

Thanks for any help you (or anyone else) can provide.

Guy

[68 Overlander]

Guy99,
The 80 Amp Inteli-Power converters use a 20 Amp AC plug because they are capable of drawing more then 15 Amps (AC) under full load. That funny looking (20Amp) plug is a requirement for it to be “UL” listed. The 60 Amp (and lower) units use a standard three-prong 15 Amp plug. You will need to change the receptacle and wiring to handle 20 Amps. It is still 110 volts and not 220 like your table saw.
I would not change the plug, as that could be dangerous. The 80 Amp converter you bought is huge, and unless you have an extremely large battery bank, it is probably overkill in all but the largest Airstream Motor homes. I can’t imagine what your 84 model would have that needs such a large unit but maybe you have a bunch of extra DC stuff or extra batteries. Properly wired though, it won’t hurt anything.
We always advise people when they buy the 80 Amp unit of these requirements and most realize they probably only need a 60 Amp unit or smaller, but others know what they are looking for and that’s fine too.
As for the lengthening the Charge Wizard cable, I just don’t know. I have not tried to splice extra wire into one but I do know the wires are tiny. Some OEM Charge Wizards come with only enough to reach the converter and all after market units like yours come with six feet of cable. Try it and see, worst case you are out $25. Good luck.
In Edit, I see now that you plan to add more batteries. If adding more then four 12 volts, the 80 Amp might be better especially if you dry camp. Four or less batteries, the 60 Amp does a great job.

[davidz71]

Just curious, is there an adapter plug that would convert the 20 amp configuration to a 15 amp type plug?

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by davidz71

Just curious, is there an adapter plug that would convert the 20 amp configuration to a 15 amp type plug?

There probably is but I can't recommend it. There is a reason it has a 20 plug and although it may never draw more then 15 Amps, the possibility is there and you wouldn't be able to control it.
Same argument with 30 Amp to 15 Amp adapters for shore power. I have seen plenty of melted plugs...in fact I have one!

[markdoane]

Guy99,

The funny plug will work in a regular 20a outlet. Those are the outlets where the left hand slot is a sideways T. If you have a 20a. breaker and #12 wire, but the outlet is only 15a (two vertical slots) you can change the outlet to a 20a socket and be ok.

[fangthorpe]

The correct solution is to buy the $5.99 20A female plug at the hardware store and change it out. The "normal" male plugs and the new "funny" one will then both fit the new female receptacle. The incorrect solution, knowing you will not be pulling 20A, is to turn the horizontal blade 90 degrees with needlenose pliers.

[guy99]

I saw your replies but was on the road and lost internet access before I could reply.

Randy, Sure wish I had talked to you before I bought. My thinking was that since my vnivolt was 50 amps and I wanted to add two batteries, I should increase the converter capacit by more that 10 amps (which was the other Intelipower I considered) So I went with the 80 amp.

Turns out the circuit for the univolt is 20 amp and the wire is 12 gauge so I just changed the plug and pluggered 'er in.

Seems to be fine but the new unit has on ocassion made a very high pitched whine (like crickets on speed) is this normal?

Another question: Should the converter charge the chassis battery or only the house batteries?

[68 Overlander]

Guy,
Glad the plug worked out. Most distribution panels are protected with 20 Amp for the converter but I have no way of knowing for sure. Also, like I mentioned, you will likely not see more then 15 Amps but possible under full load when charging a large battery bank.
I don’t know what to tell you about the whine in the converter. I’ve not heard that in a PD product but sure have heard old Univolts hum. You can have it checked where you bought it and maybe they can figure it out, I just don’t know.
The converter is very capable of charging the chassis battery but not likely wired that way. I don’t recommend it because your chassis battery is a starting type and your house batteries are deep cycle, or at least they should be. The charger is designed for deep cycle, AGM or Gel cell only (gel requires a special calibrated Charge Wizard). There is really no reason to charge the chassis battery from the converter but I would make sure you have an isolator to prevent the DC system from drawing on the chassis battery. Probably standard equipment.

[IPM]

yea, I found out the hard way my original univolt in my '82 excella does not operate like like a modern battery charger. Cooked a couple of deep cycle batteries. Did not check the battery water often enough.