First, big thanks to all! I have learned much from this forum since buying 1983 AS 300 1 month ago. I love this thing.
Problem:
No Dash Lights.
(oh, and since 1st attempted fix; no temp gauge either. damn.)
No running lights either.
Service manual that I have does not show wiring diagrams.
I did search this forum , and found that AS wiring diagrams are pretty worthless, But nonetheless; that unfortunate rats nest of 3rd rate multi-owner wiring modifications needs to get addressed and I need some HELP.
- Please recommend a book or manual that will help me wade through this.
- Any suggestions would be appreciated.
[the red bone's connected to the blue bone?.. or is that purlple.. or grey?]
Oh, and one more thing,
The idiot lights are all unstuck from the back of the panel beause the double stick tape is bad. What process, and what product should I use to re-affix them?
The running lights should be part of the main light switch. This would be a piece of the Chevrolet chassis. It may also have something to do with the dash lights. I would use a meter and see if you are getting the proper voltage out of the headlight switch, on all the lugs. If not, it is a OEM part from GM. I would take the old one with you if its bad.
The temp gauge is an electrical one as well, you may have knocked the wire off the back in your investigations.
No clue on the idiot lights, but someone here can help, I am sure.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
"Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey." -- Fitzhugh Mullan
Wise men talk because they have someting to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
In politics, absurdity is not a handicap— Napoleon
Check your fuses and fuse panel in the glove box. I lost my dash lights and running lights (together) once. Found a blown fuse (I forget the position) and that fixed both issues at once.
All that is on same circuit through that light switch. If it's not a fuse then it's that switch. The trick to geting that switch out is pull the knob all the way out like your truning on the lights. There is a button on the part under the dash that when you push it will let the knob pull out completly. Once its out you can get to the collar that holds the assembly into the dash. Take the switch with you to a parts store. There are three varaitions of that swtich from 73-91 and they are all very simular in appearance. Make sure you get the same pin configuration.
If you can get your had on the back side it's a 5 minute job.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
UPDATE:
-Overcame fear of wiring > dove in with both feet.
Instrument panel lights
Steve was right: Fuse. but it gets deeper
first: the Previous owner replaced the speedo and did not connect the light leads to the new unit. The positive lead was floating around back there and shorting out. The fuse stopped blowing but I still had no dash lights. Ended up that the dimmer portion of the light switch had huge dead spots in it. Replaced the light switch with Napa HL-6613 works great.
Running (Clearance) lights on the top of the MH:
I did not have the good fortune of witnessing these lights becoming simultaneously operational. Tracking the feed wire to them was a bitch as these lights were not wired in parallel with the running lights. (as shown in the AS block wiring diagram.) This could have been a PO mod > but the lights were wired directly to the goofy ICC Signal switch at the far left side of the dash. This is a momentary switch, doesn't make much sense.
Idiot Lights:
I used double-sided foam-in-the-middle mounting tape to re-affix them. The lights are a bit dim, but they probably were from the start.
As for my thermostat:
It may have actually survived. When I pulled it out for repair, the previously pegged needle went back to its start point. I re-installed it to see what would happen. A brief run-up showed normal temp reading, so I'm praying for a pass on that one.
All my best wishes to my forum brothers.
May the road rise with you!
This could have been a PO mod > but the lights were wired directly to the goofy ICC Signal switch at the far left side of the dash. This is a momentary switch, doesn't make much sense.
Actually this is on purpose. My clearance lights are wired in to this switch as well. Helpful when you want to flash your lights and signal an "OK to move over" or a "Thank you for letting me move over" to truckers and other large vehicles on the higway.
The ICC will flash your rear clearance lights also....same reason.
Actually this is on purpose. My clearance lights are wired in to this switch as well. Helpful when you want to flash your lights and signal an "OK to move over" or a "Thank you for letting me move over" to truckers and other large vehicles on the higway.
The ICC will flash your rear clearance lights also....same reason.
Steve, would you then surmise that the ICC switch should allow voltage to pass thru it while in its resting position (normally closed). And conversly it would break the contact open when pressed?
If so, then my switch is probably bad.
Any clue on whether that type of switch is tough to find?
I have found similar size switches at WalMart and AutoZone. But they were not interuption switches. Try a truck stop or tuck parts store....you might find something that fits the current opening.
One more thing...where is not much to go wrong on these except with dirty contacts of overloaded volatage. If the switch is not fried try some electric cleaner on it and bench test it. Could be less effort than finding another switch.
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