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Old 09-18-2013, 08:37 AM   #1625
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Howard, good application of "if you want something done right, do it yourself". You did seal the lens completely to the aluminum base, and then the base to the shell leaving a drain in all of aluminum base-to-shell junctions?

Jackson Center sealed those top aft three bases all-around and I had a problem because of it. A bubble in the sealant opened and leaked water inside; I drilled a hole in the lower side of the base to let it out and dry. Probably better to leave them all to drain, as you did.

It's been a year since mine were installed and sealed without any other signs of leakage or corrosion. I think installing the better-fitting Classic style aluminum bases under original lens assemblies is the best fix for those having corrosion at the shell or moisture problems in the late model LED fixtures.

doug
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:55 AM   #1626
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Where/how on the frame did you bolt it? And did you do anything in particular (sanding, etc.) to ensure the anode had good metal to metal contact?

Thanks.


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Originally Posted by longdog View Post
My 2007 Safari 19 had filiform corrosion on the wheels (nowhere else) when I bought it in 2008 (one year used). Although it does not make complete sense, I bought a 5 pound marine zinc sacrificial anode and bolted it to the frame. My corrosion has not advanced in 5 years.

Stored in an unheated pole barn, on gravel, in humid, drizzly Vancouver, WA.
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:08 PM   #1627
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Howard, good application of "if you want something done right, do it yourself". You did seal the lens completely to the aluminum base, and then the base to the shell leaving a drain in all of aluminum base-to-shell junctions?

Jackson Center sealed those top aft three bases all-around and I had a problem because of it. A bubble in the sealant opened and leaked water inside; I drilled a hole in the lower side of the base to let it out and dry. Probably better to leave them all to drain, as you did.

It's been a year since mine were installed and sealed without any other signs of leakage or corrosion. I think installing the better-fitting Classic style aluminum bases under original lens assemblies is the best fix for those having corrosion at the shell or moisture problems in the late model LED fixtures.

doug
Yes, Doug, sealed each part as your's were done. Only change was the 1/4 inch weep area at lowest side of casting to skin on the red back upper curved base lights. Thanks for the reply, I think this will work best. Interesting, no filifrom under any lights, so the ones I fixed before were the only problem. There was a post a few days back with condensation in lights on a Classic trailer, don't know what year or lights, but shows nothing is going to be perfect. Like you, I'm just not hot on the new, thicker gaskets as a fix. The plastic base is still the same and that curved base will pull down on the front and back of the gasket tightly when the light is screwed on, but the mid section of the gasket has nothing pressing against it and thus does not necessarily guarantee a tight seal at the mid point. I noticed a post where a new one was leaking and fix was to Acryl R the light lens to it's base. I believe I would seal the gasket to hull skin also.
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:58 PM   #1628
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Wanted to post results of a new try of painting a sanded corrosion repair and then clear coating over that. Again, I used the Rust-Oleum "Metallic" "Brilliant Metal Finish" bar code: 7271 Silver Metallic (photo of that can on an earlier post). Using poster board paper, I cut an area slightly larger than the repair area. Backed that poster board with a shim to hold it off the surface so as to not spray a hard edge. Sprayed the Rust-Oleum. With 2000 black paper, very lightly wet sanded the painted spot to try to feather in and remove edge and overspray. Re-taped and sprayed with clear coat. The results are not bad, the spot still shows, but is much better than the bare metal with just clear coat covering. I've got another area along an entire upper back panel edge where the rivets are involved an I'm not sure if it's worth the work there to try to make it all look better. But on small single areas this probably is. FYI

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Old 09-18-2013, 07:41 PM   #1629
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Odd - have you had to replace the anode?
It's a 5 pound solid zinc anode. I think it will last a while.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:44 PM   #1630
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Where/how on the frame did you bolt it? And did you do anything in particular (sanding, etc.) to ensure the anode had good metal to metal contact?

Thanks.
It's bolted to the frame by the bumper with galvanized bolts, nuts and washers. I don't think there is any risk of poor contact.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:00 AM   #1631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longdog View Post
My 2007 Safari 19 had filiform corrosion on the wheels (nowhere else) when I bought it in 2008 (one year used). Although it does not make complete sense, I bought a 5 pound marine zinc sacrificial anode and bolted it to the frame. My corrosion has not advanced in 5 years.

Stored in an unheated pole barn, on gravel, in humid, drizzly Vancouver, WA.
Question.....

Where in your example are the dissimilar metals?...I agree it doesn't make complete sense.

Bob
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:30 PM   #1632
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Question.....

Where in your example are the dissimilar metals?...I agree it doesn't make complete sense.

Bob
The dissimilar metals are the steel frame of the airstream and the aluminum shell of the airstream.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:41 PM   #1633
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Question.....

Where in your example are the dissimilar metals?...I agree it doesn't make complete sense.

Bob
So Bob and LongDog, we've got Aluminum, bolted to mild steel (trailer frame) and a sacrificial Zinc bolted to that. The whole unit sets in the air resting on rubber tires. We don't have electrolysis here, we're not submerged in a fluid. How could the zinc do anything? But, no corrosion is no corrosion, why question success?
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:48 PM   #1634
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"So Bob and LongDog, we've got Aluminum, bolted to mild steel (trailer frame) and a sacrificial Zinc bolted to that."

Ok......take a picture of the sacrificial anode full of filiform corrosion and I'll buy it.

Filiform is not caused by....never mind....like Dad used to say...."I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.

I had galvanic all over the belly pan of our 63 only because the PO had riveted it up using mild steel washers and aluminum rivets. No doubt there is plenty of opportunity for it on the AS.

I'm now using Dilithium Crystals duct-taped to the stabilizers.


Bob
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:20 AM   #1635
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I'm now using Dilithium Crystals duct-taped to the stabilizers.


Bob
Good idea. I'm tired of limping along on impulse power.

Sacrificial anodes work well immersed in water such as water heaters and boats.

Gene
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:41 PM   #1636
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A week after completion of the Classic base install for the filiform and leaking clearance light repair we sat through our first full blown heavy thunderstorm downpour last night. I did the caulking with Acryl R myself and was certain the job done would insure dryness. At first check this AM all lights looked great, but later a dime sized spot of condensation showed up in one yellow light. On much closer inspection, I found a spot, maybe 1/16 inch where caulk was missing between the lens and original plastic base--even in photo it's difficult to spot. Lesson learned: no matter who did the "fix" work, go over each light again with a strong flashlight to insure no bubbles or gaps in the caulk.

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Old 09-23-2013, 01:51 PM   #1637
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I will admit that I have not read all 117 pages of posts on this thread, but has anyone used the Dupont "Pro-Fusion color Scratch Repair Stick" to cover the cut edges of the aluminum where the corrosion seems to start.

They are available in packs of 3 for about $12 at Costco, and are listed as a clear coat scratch repair system. I was wondering if they might be a good way to seal the visible cut edges on my new 2014 FC 20. The ones I have in mind are around the panel which has the rear window in it. It looks to be cut out of a sheet of metal and just riveted in place on the surface of the rear segments. The cut edges are exposed.

If not, what does the group recommend for those edges?
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:45 AM   #1638
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I have new cans of both Boeshield T-9 and Corrosion X. Which is the best to spray in the exterior aluminum panel seams?
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