1966 Caravel with issues

[Argonaut20]

Interesting history for those rivets. I find that, after 45+ years, they don't age the same as the bucked rivets. Some I am replacing just for appearance, others are coming out as I replace the side panel. There really doesn't seem to be a pattern to where they were used. One seam had 1/2 explosive rivets, 1/2 bucked and then there were explosive rivets in seemingly random locations. Very curious.

[RM66caravel]

Okay the app on my iPad says that I have entered the wrong password more than the allowable times? Have not entered it yet at all so what's up?
Cliff

[millertimeUS]

Mine did the same thing, I just reset my password.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

76 'Airstream Tradewind

[RM66caravel]

Okay reloaded the app
Cliff

[Argonaut20]

Cliff,
Here is a door hinge removal hint:
Removing a Single Hinge Door - Vintage Airstream

[RM66caravel]

I bought a steel rod from lowes cut it removed the locking pin and removed the door from the bottom up.
Cliff

[Argonaut20]

Merry Christmas Cliff. Hope the work on the Caravel is progressing to your satisfaction.

[RM66caravel]

Not really but I am still plugging away on her! Life keeps getting in the way but all should be slowing down soon! I have promised some rivets and have not mailed them yet but like I said it all should slow down or I will make it slow down so I may get my airstream relax time in! So how has it been going with you?
Cliff

[RM66caravel]

Oh yes I received done 3/16 X 1" and will be including some of those also! I like them much better!
Cliff

[Argonaut20]

I am insulating, getting ready to replace the curb side, replacing the awning rail, etc. - doing a bunch of the little tasks that can be dropped, then returned to without great difficulty. I did get the wheel well edge pretty well under control, thanks to Frank Yenson at Frank's Trailer Works. Cut slots in the back of the material every 1/2 inch right to the base of the material in the lengths that are going to be formed around the curve. Use your trusty Dremel tool for this. Try not to cut in to the base as the edge will break easily there. (Don't ask how I know.) Very carefully start to bend and feed the edge onto the wheel cut out. Tap with the handle of a screw driver or roll it on with the head of a rubber mallet or piece of closet pole to work it on to the trailer. Use clecos to secure the parts as you work from one end to the other. No heating needed but care and patience do help.

[Dingo Girl]

Ok Cliff what are the 3/16 x 1.o you speak of?
Merry Christmas!

[RM66caravel]

The door hinge on the 66 is mounted or at least mine was with 1inch long 1/8 inch rivets I did not like the way they bucked in so I am replacing them with the 3/16 by 1 inch. Which to me would be more secure and make it easier to buck.
Cliff

[Argonaut20]

The door on mine seems to be held on with 3/16" rivets. It may have been worked on at some time in the past. Who knows???

[Frank's Trailer Works]

A bucked rivet that is too short will not set properly. The same is true of one too long. I have some one inch rivets. I always have to cut them down. You want the rivet length to be the thickness of the materials joined plus 1/16" for the tail set.
The door on a 66 has a single hinge does it not? That hinge is bolted on from what I remember. Where does riveting it come into play? 3/16" is a honking rivet. I would think using that large a rivet through before you go for it.

[StreaminGuy]

Hey to all you Caravel experts....My original furnace used to light and worked but hasn't for sometime now. It hasn't been an issue as I installed a low profile Carrier years ago with heat strips. However, I'd like to remove and clean, repair, somewhat refinish my original furnace and get it working. Can someone give me the definitive way to separate the two rusted pipes connecting the inside to the outside. It doesn't seem to want to come apart.

Thanks, G

[Argonaut20]

Yo Frank,
The door on my Caravel has a single hinge, held on with what look like 3/16" rivets that are bucked in place. I agree that the length has to be cut to fit but I don't yet know the length I am going to need as the door isn't off yet. The heads of the rivets in place now look like they were set with the same set used on the 1/8" rivets - no smiles, but a rim around the edge like a pie crust. Interesting, no? The rest of the door frame is standard 1/8" rivets.

As an aside to StreaminGuy, I never found a way to separate the pipes to the heater so the #$%@&&! thing would come apart. As the heater was junk, I finally just cut the pipes behind the heater. It came out then.

[StreaminGuy]

Originally Posted by Argonaut20

Yo Frank,

As an aside to StreaminGuy, I never found a way to separate the pipes to the heater so the #$%@&&! thing would come apart. As the heater was junk, I finally just cut the pipes behind the heater. It came out then.

Bummer, I was hoping to fix and reuse the heater if I ever boondocked...which we haven't had the occasion to do in the past 15 years of camping in it. We were thinking of taking the Caravel to a local 800 car Sunday morning cruise in. It'd be nice to have some heat then. Oh well, have SawsAll, will travel.

Thanks for the response, G

[Jewel65]

Streaminguy, I think if you keep working with it you can get it loose. We removed our furnace during our restoration and remember thinking it would not separate, but it finally did. If I remember correctly it took a little twisting. In my case though I was able to be a little more rough on it since I was not going to put it back in. I also remember using some PB Blaster on it. You might try that and let it sit a day or so to work in. Good luck!

[Aerowood]

You need to be careful with these old furnaces as the burner cans can develop internal rust that create pinhole leaks, alloying CO into the living areas. I put a bore scope into mine and all of the pinholes showed up like the stars in the night sky.

[Jewel65]

That's why an Olympian Catalytic is going back in mine.