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03-12-2018, 05:33 PM
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#61
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Belly Up
Flipping the trailer completely over would be the way go. Being on the side is second best.
It took me 3 paper patterns to make it right. I did not find impossible, but it was a challenge to make it look good.
Everyone tackles this differently and I looked at a lot of posts and tried to do what works for me...but there are challenges ahead.
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03-28-2018, 02:00 PM
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#62
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Belly Pan Update
Well last few weeks around here have been dedicated to house maintenance and spring breakers, visiting. Now back to the real work
Couple more sections have been put on. I'm trying to make sure I mouse proof the sucker. However I know they can squeeze into a hole as little as a 1/4 inch.
Takes time...as I said b4 its easier on the side than on your back...but flipping is the way to go..
Oh yes you can never have enough clecos...just ordered 50 more.
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03-29-2018, 05:05 AM
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#63
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4 Rivet Member
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston
, Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 494
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Making good progress. I'm jealous and still looking at snow out my window.
Couple of questions:
How thick is the insulation you attached to the floor?
How did you attach it?
Thanks,
Mark
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03-29-2018, 06:33 AM
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#64
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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If you just ordered 50 clecos then you are still 50 short.
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03-30-2018, 07:09 AM
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#65
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinVT
Making good progress. I'm jealous and still looking at snow out my window.
Couple of questions:
How thick is the insulation you attached to the floor?
How did you attach it?
Thanks,
Mark
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The insulation is 2"...and the back side has a thin plastic type sheet covering the foam board. I basically glued it on with a water base adhesive that was recommended to me, it comes in a tube like caulk. I would tell you the name but I don't have any tubes laying around.
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03-30-2018, 07:09 AM
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#66
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
If you just ordered 50 clecos then you are still 50 short.
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OH NO! Now you tell me....
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04-14-2018, 03:41 PM
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#67
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Air Rivit Tool
I have had this tool for at least the last 30 years ...and when pulling a lot of pop rivets especially big or steel this is life saver.
Got all the flat pieces on and tomorrow I will start on the banana wraps.
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04-30-2018, 07:44 PM
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#68
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Plugging Away
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05-04-2018, 03:25 PM
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#69
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Big Holes
Today I finally got the measurements for the holes on the hot water heater. Measured 6x LOL and only cut once. I thought it would be easier cutting the belly pan b4 I rivet in place. Since the holes are 4 1/2 inches I'm glad I did it.
Doing an on demand water heater, with the exhaust through the floor rather than out the side. One hole is intake and the other is the exhaust. Smaller hole is for a pressure relief tube.
I used 4 inch pvc to line the hole and to give it the direct outlet it needs. Will screen the bottom with some screen caps.
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05-12-2018, 03:15 PM
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#70
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Done!
Don't let the title mislead you...only the belly pan is done..
Like I said in a previous post...if you can flip it completely over, you will save a lot of time and back aches. I put my pan together with approx. 20 sections. For me it was easier to do...plus all the banana wraps can be removed separately if need be.
Each out rigger has a sacrificial aluminum covering if the seams did not over lap.
The exposed wood floor under the steps got a aluminum covering and will get caulked to seal out any water intrusion.
Next step is to clean the shell and get it ready to be attached to the sub floor. Can't wait to start doing something different.
Oh yes my first measure 10x cut once mistake. Any how I just "stretched" the aluminum by adding a piece since I was out of that material. It's on the bottom so no one can see it.
A few years ago I would of fretted about this and maybe ordered more aluminum . But knowing you can't see it and its not structural it does not bother me one bit...haha
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05-15-2018, 06:48 AM
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#71
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Milestone
It's looking great!
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05-20-2018, 07:57 AM
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#72
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Water Testing
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06-02-2018, 02:51 PM
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#73
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Lift on...
Finally got the shell back on...just in time for hurricane season. Putting the shell on is always a PIA. No matter how you plan it there is always a rivet or stray pieces of aluminum that hangs you up. It seems like you kick, push, shove and say bad things about somebody's mother. Then like some miracle you hear a loud noise and everything is solid. I do have to say when that shell is on the frame it is rock hard no jiggle...
A couple pictures showing the inside. I hard mounted the shell to the frame at four points. Now all the fun begins putting the 600 rivets in that I took out oh so long ago...
Off on a river cruise for the month of June so no more action til July.
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06-02-2018, 04:39 PM
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#74
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Shell on
Congratulations! Shell on is a milestone for sure
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06-02-2018, 06:07 PM
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#75
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,956
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You sure have come a long way. Glad the shell dropped back on without issue. I think that was my first initial big concern. But I found that there are a few concerns after the shell goes back on. I love challenges. All is looking great. Keep the progress going. Good luck, Bubba
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06-03-2018, 05:03 AM
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#76
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4 Rivet Member
2004 28' International CCD
1948 22' Liner
1963 22' Safari
Oakland
, Florida
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 288
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Woo-hoo and a yiiipppeee ki-yay!!! Good job! We can't wait to get to this point on ours. That point will be a sigh of relief. One question . . .
Did you do anything special to the decking joints? What type of joint did you use?
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06-03-2018, 06:24 AM
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#77
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4 Rivet Member
1967 26' Overlander
Haute-Aboujagane
, New Brunswick
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 255
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Congratulations, can't wait to see the rest!
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06-03-2018, 07:46 AM
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#78
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4 Rivet Member
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston
, Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 494
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I can only imagine how good that feels. Going to be a long time until I am there. At least I don't usually have to worry about hurricanes, only snow.
Congrats, Mark
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06-03-2018, 08:59 AM
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#79
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MsRivet
Woo-hoo and a yiiipppeee ki-yay!!! Good job! We can't wait to get to this point on ours. That point will be a sigh of relief. One question . . .
Did you do anything special to the decking joints? What type of joint did you use?
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Not sure I understand the question fully. All boards and edges were epoxy sealed and painted. The joints on the sub floor are just butted up to each other with a bead of silicone caulk to water proof them. The C channel has a moisture barrier between the channel and the floor. And the sub floor also has a barrier on it floor to frame...hope this helps.
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06-04-2018, 04:15 AM
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#80
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4 Rivet Member
2004 28' International CCD
1948 22' Liner
1963 22' Safari
Oakland
, Florida
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandtrader
Not sure I understand the question fully. All boards and edges were epoxy sealed and painted. The joints on the sub floor are just butted up to each other with a bead of silicone caulk to water proof them. The C channel has a moisture barrier between the channel and the floor. And the sub floor also has a barrier on it floor to frame...hope this helps.
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That answered my question. Thanks so much! Some, and that’s only a handful of people, have added wood cabinetry biscuits to the subfloor joints. Preventing vertical movement across the width of the long subfloor joints. Overkill? Probably. We are not far from adding the new decking subfloor onto the new frame. Just polling what others have done.
Enjoy that river cruise!
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