A '63 for me! (many good ideas for your new to you Trailer)

[uwe]

So I got the 5/8 plywood ( $$ ACX fir) delivered, and cut into what will eventually become the floor of my trailer. I will use some of the Varathane leftover from the floor in my house to seal the wood, top and bottom.
I figure this way the wood gets a head start on future disastrous leaks etc. The frame is coated completely with POR15, so rust will hopefully not be an issue for the next, oh, 1000 years. Let me confirm how tought this POR stuff really is! It took 1 week for me to grow the spills off of me. MY DNA must have looked like someething from outer space.
The wheel wells are also rrepaired, new sections inserted and riveted/vulkemed in Place.And, of course, they also received a coat of the POR15. The pictures hopefully show some of my progress.

[uwe]

So the basics of the frame and floor are in place. Next the shell needs to come off the ceiling and back on it's frame. My plan is to cut small strips from the belly pan material, and attach the channel with #8 panhead screws to the shell perimeter on the inside, with the strips between the shell and channel for correct spacing. Then the shell goes on the wood, in it's proper position, of course. Now I need to trace the rear of the shell perimeter on the flooring, lift up the shell in the rear and cut the plywood. Unfortunately I have no reference left for the rear curve, or where it is supposed to end. Afterwards I will mount the channel, then remove the #8 screws from the perimeter, and lift the shell back up about 6 inches, so the belly pan can be wrapped properly inside the channel. Once the outer sections belly pan are on, I will install the tanks and plumbing, then finish off the belly pan all the way. Looks like I will revisit some of the welding work to install the tank frames, and also will be doing more painting, and woodwork. I want this trailer to roll by the end of the month, if at all possible.

[Ken J]

Uwe

VERY nice job! Your ahead of me now!

What/how did you repair your wheel wells?

Ken

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Ken J

Uwe

VERY nice job! Your ahead of me now!

What/how did you repair your wheel wells?

Ken

Ken,

I bought a sheet of galvanized metal from HD, cut the pieces for the ends of the wheel welss and then used my benchtop metal brake to bend a flange on each end. The long side needed a slight curve, so I bent it over my leg until it fit very very snugly against the original wheel well end.
It took 3 tries, but then it fit quite well. The new pieces overlap the old wheel well material by 6in. or so. I cut out the rusted metal, applied vulkem to the seams and used pop rivets to join the old and new. Next came a coat of POR15 over everything, and some underbody sealer on the wheel side of the wheel wells.
It took one very hot Saturday afternoon to do both sides ( 4 ends), painting and HD shopping included.

[uwe]

In all the excitement over the woodwork, I almost forgot to install the small sheet of aluminum that goes over the step, but under the flooring.

[markdoane]

Originally Posted by uwe

So the basics of the frame and floor are in place. Next the shell needs to come off the ceiling and back on it's frame. ...................... I want this trailer to roll by the end of the month, if at all possible.

Uwe,
I'm using exactly the same method. I figure I'm about 2 days ahead of you.
Here's the sequence I used:
1. I measured the radius of the corners as well as I could last fall when I took the floor off. I carefully transferred the radii to the new floor and marked the arcs. Then I lowered the shell for a visual inspection and made the first cuts.
2. Then I laid out the floor channel, aligned with the body rivet holes, marked the floor, raised the shell and cut again.
3. I lowered the shell, and boy was it a tight fit. Be very sure you mark the centerline of the shell and the center of the body as the shell can rack to one side and throw your arcs off. I trimmed the corners again with a belt sander.
4. I cut the old bellyskin into sections and tried to squeeze it between the floor and the shell. Time to lift the body again. This time I cut about 1/4" more off the arcs.

So, it took me four tries to get it right. I hope you have better luck.

[uwe]

Don,
Thanks for the tips. I am prepared to wrestle this shell around for a few days. Did I mention that my old floor came up as toothpicks with old linoleum fragments attached?
I have absolutely no reference other than the pieces of curved channel for the rear of the trailer. Right now there is sqare plywood waiting to be trimmed.
I want to finish securing the floor with elevator bolts today, and make as many 30in pieces of channel as my old aluminum supply allows. My wife has commited us to weddings etc. for the entire weekend, which greatly interferes with Airstream time, btw.

[markdoane]

Uwe,
What are you going to use for insulation?
And on the wheel wells-Home Depot had 2' x 4' sheet of 26ga galvanized for $20. I think that is criminal!

[uwe]

Originally Posted by markdoane

Uwe,
What are you going to use for insulation?
And on the wheel wells-Home Depot had 2' x 4' sheet of 26ga galvanized for $20. I think that is criminal!

Yeah, I know. I rummaged through the metal rack, and found a 2ftx4ft piece for $ 12.95. Probably mislabeled, and still overpriced. Anyways, I used about 1/3 of it, so it's going to be one of those " can't toss it because it was expensive" things on the shelf.
I am thinking of using the aluminum foil backed insulation ( the name escapes me right now), it did a wonderful job for both noise and warmth in my 1959 Mercedes roof and doors. I bought it at a nearby automotive upholstery supply warehouse.
I am leaning towards using this material in the walls, and perhaps styrofoam or completely encapsulated batt type material under the floor. I will not use insulation that will make the trailer a rolling sponge.

[uwe]

Finally, the wood is on the frame. I still have to do one of the other Elevator bolt, but that will come when the shell is back on. ( Hopefully Friday)

[uwe]

Today I made a few new sections of floor channel, from leftover .032 aluminum. I could have alo used some of the old belly material, but I still need it for templates, to cut the new aluminum.
There is a sequence of photos below, showing how I did it.
First, I cut some 3in by 30in long strips of aluminum. Then measured and marked a 1.5in strip down the center of it.
The third photo shows the material in the benchtop metal brake. The first bend makes one side of the c-channel, the second bend makes the other side and the bottom of the c-channel. The last picture shows the finished channel section. I can only make 30in sections, since this is the maximum capacity of my bending brake. This tool has come in quite handy at times, making brackets, lamp shades, tubs etc. I also used it to fabricate repair panels for my wheel wells.

[uwe]

I will spend the next few days installing the channel to the shell, temporarily, usig #8 sheet metal screws. On Friday Murray ( Creampuff) and myself will lower the shell back on the floor for the first time. It will be sooo much easier with 2 people. Maybe I can get Airhead over here also. Hey Guys, Pizza on me!

[Simplyspent]

What are the odds that another Airstreamer picked up an Overlander on the same day? I bought and retrieved a pretty nice 1962 Overlander. I own customized 1961 Flying Cloud that I will be selling soon. My wife and I decided on a tandem axle unit with all the amenities. We also pull our trailer with a 1500 series Suburban.

I would like to hear more about your project and see some interior shots. I have begun removing parts and assessing the scope of work. My Overlander is pretty solid all around with exception of roof damage caused by A. an idiot walking on the roof to remove the old AC. B. another idiot who installed a roof antenna mount by drilling a 1.5 inch hole through a support rib.

[Ken J]

Must be the same idiot who owned my 58 Overlander. Hmmmm whoooo

The good news is I get to learn new skills

Ken

[Simplyspent]

Okay...so I am fairly new to the forums. I should have noted the date on Uwe's initial post. It appears he is months into a refurb on his Overlander. Anyway, it is good to read through the thread and see the project evolve.

[uwe]

Last Friday the shell came down. Thanks to Murray (creampuff) for his diligent help!
We lowered the shell on the new wooden floor, traced the rear contour, lifted it back up, cut the floor to fit, and dropped it back down.
Sounds easier than it was. It took 3-4 tries to get the gap just right for the belly material and the channel etc. A real pita, if you ask me!
Note to self: Next trailer should have at least remnants of the original flooring for templates.
We also re-inforced the body bracing so I can use a jack on them to lift the front or rear individually, for belly wrap and floor channel installation.
But at last the shell is no longer hanging on the ceiling, and I can move the trailer around again. Can't wait take it out to the parking lot Monday and clean the shop floor underneath.
Thanks Murray!!

[Ken J]

Cool - congradulations! Now that I think of it - your probably gonna kill me, I could have traced the curve on some paper and overnighted it to you - Now I think of it.

Ken

[uwe]

Ken,
I am a devoted non-violent person, so have no fear.....
Besides, if it was easy, everybody would do it.

[Ken J]

Whew...............

[uwe]

Worked a bit here and there on the old girll over the last 4-6 weeks. Insulated the floor from below, using closed cell foam sheets and styrofoam. Got the outer section of belly wrap installed from the front tire on one side to the front tire on the other side. Measured, ordered, and picked up my fresh and grey water tanks, and found 2 reference points for the rear channel mounting bolts.
Found out that my rear curve appeared to be about an inch too long. Removed channel, cut floor, re-installed channel to the old, original location. The shell has been sitting suspended by jackstands on it's new floor.
Today Murray is coming to help me permanently install the shell, after finishig the outer belly wrap around the rear. Exciting! Progress!
Pictures to follow.

[uwe]

The shell is back on! IT was a long day, and lots of pushing, shoving, prying, sweating, a little swearing, lifting, dropping, measuring and eyeballing.
Fortunately it was not a very hot day today. I took some pics, will post them on Monday.

[Ken J]

YEAH! Pop of cork! (Just don't get any on the aluminum) - congradulations on your epic event!

[uwe]

Hre's some shots of the trailer from this morning. You can see that the circumference is not riveted yet. The whole shell is only secured by 6 or so sheetmetal screws. It needs a lot of adjusting and situating yet.

[uwe]

I guess changes were made to the picture posting process, it says 100kb max pictures. After resizing the last two 3 times, the quality is now so low, it's not worth posting them, in my opinion.
Too bad, I got lots more, but no more time right now. Might try again tonight.

[Ken J]

From what I can tell from the pictures, looks really great.

Ken