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-   -   System Pressure Test, with Air? (https://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/system-pressure-test-with-air-60222.html)

GCinSC 01-13-2010 06:14 PM

System Pressure Test, with Air?
 
Greetings.

New to my AS and I have not fired up any of the water systems yet.

Before I add water to the AS from the tank or city connection is there any benefit to pressurizing the system with air and doing a leakdown test much like you see on new home construction?

I could rig a gage and shutoff valve, pressurize the system through the city connection to 30 psi (or XX psi?)and check back on it later rather than use H2O to find any leaks.

I have no reason to suspect that it does have a leak and I have no reason to assume it doesn't.

Thanks,

Gary

Jammer 01-13-2010 10:13 PM

Well, with air, you won't make a mess if there's a bad leak. Also, air leaks faster than water, so you'll find things that you'd probably miss.

On the other hand you can end up chasing ghosts if you have a faucet valve or something that seals OK with water but won't hold air.

2airishuman 01-13-2010 11:26 PM

do you suspect leaks?

does the trailer have a history of leaks?

was it recently FROZEN with water on board?

in other words WHY?
________

this is a 2007?

as i recall, the factory pressure tests the water lines/fitting and valves to ~90psi...

i don't think the tanks are included in this, nor should they need to be

NONE of the tanks are pressurized, just the opposite.

the oem water pump generates ~30-40 psi, if my memory is correct.

the fresh water INLET has a pressure reducing valve that keeps incoming water at 45-60? psi.
______________

the most useful way to look for leaks is to USE the water system.

fill tank, turn ON pump, open taps to purge air, fill the water heater, shut off the taps.

then look for leaks under the sinks, toilet sprayer/sink sprayer, water heater plumbing, in the pump area,

inspect outside at the water heater and lines at all connecting points, and around the belly pan and tank pans

tank or low point drains can be inspected for leaks along with sink/shower drains and toilet BOWL valve...

now run the pump intermittently, flush the toilet, wash dishes, take a shower...

and again look for leaks.

combine this exercise with a scenic location and we call it CAMPING!:D

cheers
2air'

68 Overlander 01-13-2010 11:54 PM

Gary,
No there is not. Let it rip and see what you got. You won't be the first to squirt water in the air but chances are you are OK.

GCinSC 01-14-2010 06:32 AM

I have no proof that it does or doesn't leak, we were not able to run it wet at the time of delivery inspection. The idea was to use easily available air and not H2O w/o trying to pressure test any tanks. The day after I got it home we went over the system with an air compressor checking for water, didn't find more than a small splash and I put RV AF in the traps. Everything that I have seen looks great. I'm a new owner, but when I start the water systems, I do have an experienced 5'er neighbor that I'm sure will be able to assist.

We are still well below freezing as of this AM, warming up this weekend. I doubt that we are out of the woods as far as freeze potentials at night.

I can't wait to hit the road, we are going to a local State Park this weekend just to scope out the sites and get even more motivated.

2air' that's a great check list for the water system, and it is a 2007 model.

Thanks Guys.

SteveH 01-14-2010 06:47 AM

I had a heater fail a while back, the temps got down to 25 here, and I had water in the system. So, I tested the water system with 60 pounds of air pressure.

I figured if I did have a leak, I didn't want a big mess with water running everywhere inside the trailer before I could shut it off. I was fortunate, and no leaks found.

Inland RV Center, In 01-14-2010 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC (Post 793640)
Greetings.

New to my AS and I have not fired up any of the water systems yet.

Before I add water to the AS from the tank or city connection is there any benefit to pressurizing the system with air and doing a leakdown test much like you see on new home construction?

I could rig a gage and shutoff valve, pressurize the system through the city connection to 30 psi (or XX psi?)and check back on it later rather than use H2O to find any leaks.

I have no reason to suspect that it does have a leak and I have no reason to assume it doesn't.

Thanks,

Gary

That's how a good shop tests the water system.

Andy

GCinSC 01-14-2010 07:35 PM

Andy,

Thanks for the test confirmation.

I have some backyard time available before the first excursion to try the dry test and then go wet, so time is not an issue.

What I want to make sure of is to the best of my ability, it is ALL SYSTEMS GO! when the stabs go down and we hook up. I want the Mrs. to be smiling!

I have seen some weekend rookies setting up camp and it's kinda entertaining when you get to watch. When they get out the directions to set up a dome tent, crack a cold one and enjoy for a bit, then offer to help.

The quality that I have seen so far and the condition make me think it just needs to be used and a bit of TLC.

Now, all of the features in the sound system and DVD player, now that needs a 12 yr old.

Still need to get my hands around the various power systems, I'll visit the AC/DC sub-forum more. Inverters, convertors, divertors, subverters and biverters aaaarrrggghh! Don't forget the antenna(s).

Thanks to all.

BradS 01-14-2010 10:07 PM

An ounce of precaution is worth a pound of cure. I am a carpenter so I seem to have a compressor in my truck most of the time. I have helped many people test their water systems with air. At most it takes an hour to do, and you know youll sleep better after doing it.I like to test at 45 pounds

GCinSC 01-21-2010 06:41 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I made a combination pressure test and flushing adaptor. I connected it to the fresh water inlet, closed off the HWT and attached a small compressor to the coupling. I slowly increased the pressure with the regulator and when I hit 30 PSI, I closed the valve and disconnected the airline. After a couple of hours, no loss of pressure, I considered the test complete.

No reason to suspect a problem and no proof that one didn't exist, but our first trip will tenatively be on our 29th anniversary, and I do want it to be a good one.

The tool begins with a male garden hose to 1/2" pipe adaptor and then short nipple, reducing bushings, one tee, one ball valve, gage and quick connect. The sooner you adapt down to 1/4" the lighter the entire tool becomes.

I continued the backyard shakedown by pulling out all of the "ahem" sewer lines and fittings, put the gloves on and gave them a good cleaning and then did a dry practice hookup that got just a little bit wet, good thing it was in the backyard woods. Also used the black tank flusher line for the first time, it seemed to do its assigned task.

I spent some quality time with the Equal-I-Zer hitch, It had some common washers with the Grade 5 bolts that were definetly dished and a bit mauled from PO, all new Grade 8 hardware, cleaned the socket pivots and greased it up. I actually have a 600 Lb/ft or so torque wrench at work so I will be able to hit the high torque values on the hitch components instead of double wrenching. I definetly want to review the hitch setup, I have seen several threads about the detailed process and desired results.

I don't remember these problems with our tents!


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