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Minno 05-03-2009 08:30 PM

Little Girl Refurb 1972
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Finally, after a long trip to get her home to Minnesota from Mobile, AL, and then finding a place in our yard to park her for a few years, and then building a shelter of sorts to help protect her and us from the rain and sun, we have started the long road of doing a complete refurbishment of our Little Girl. We’ve done a fairly extensive audit of what needs to be done plus all the stuff we want to do, and have a plan. Of course, like all plans, it’s subject to change. Overall, we are going to start by gutting her on the inside. We’ve been working on that the last couple of weekends and a few evenings here and there. So far, we have taking out everything from the front wall to the bedroom area. The pictures below show our progress. We still need to clear out all the loose stuff in the front, but at least it’s all loose and removable! We’ve found a couple of mice nests, and several paper wasp nests. All old and currently unused thank goodness! Even this little bit of progress is very gratifying.

Once we have her gutted, and I receive the many weather-stripping parts I’ve ordered, we’ll start making her weather tight on her upper shell before proceeding with more fun projects (like removing what’s left of the belly pan and the floor). She's our retirement project - in that we hope to have her completely refurbished in time for retirement. No big rush, we have at least 8 to 10 years…

Our plan is to make her into a rear bedroom, side bathroom floor plan. We'll be adding a grey water tank, as well as most likely moving the black water and fresh water tanks. The galley will basically remain in the same place, as will the refrigerator. Outside, we want to keep her as vintage as possible, but giving in to a few more modern safety items. For example, she needs all new tail lights and several new running lights, so all will be replaced with LED versions.

Chris & Kay

72BamaStream 05-04-2009 12:07 PM

:lol: I see that the glove is still there... too funny

willyd 05-04-2009 04:18 PM

Keep up the good work - looks like you are on the way to a fine Airstream.

Minno 05-04-2009 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by 72BamaStream (Post 694029)
:lol: I see that the glove is still there... too funny

Yes, we haven't gotten around to removing the glove yet. It keeps us from snagging on the lines! :D
Do you want it back?

Minno 05-17-2009 09:17 AM

Little Girl Inside Demo Complete
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Making progress – the demolition is all done after two or three weekends and several evenings of work. Still need to clear out the front of the Little Girl, but everything is detached and loose. We’re going to save all of the aluminum extrusions that held the paneling/walls in place. Not sure if I’ll use them yet or not, but if nothing else they’ll be a great template for the curved upper part of the walls.

Found floor rot in the bathroom – not unexpected, but a bit more than we thought. No biggie to us as we’re going to remove the entire floor and replace it anyway. Also found where a PO had made several plumbing repairs – clamped on clear vinyl tube where the copper water lines must have sprung a leak at some point. These were done long ago, in a galaxy far, far away… :) Also one vent pipe repair under the bathroom sink.

Anyway, now that we have an empty trailer, we started playing with floor layouts for the rear bedroom and side bath. Looks like we’ll end up with more room in the bedroom than we originally thought, which will be a plus!

With the side bath, we’re trying to decide if we should go with a shower or a step tub, since either one will be next to the front part of the wheel well on the curb side. We noticed that a 2009 AS with a side bath has a shower that must be next to the wheel well, as it looks like there is a void between the shower and the side wall. Does anyone have any idea what that space is used for? We were thinking a linen closet would be a good use of that space, but we’re also looking for ideas. The step tub would give us more room in the shower though…

Now, it’s on to working on the exterior, and making her weather tight. I have several hundred rivets to replace, where previous repairs were done using regular steel pop rivets. Two of the vista windows leak – the rear one on the curb side leaks badly. Both are also held in pace with those regular steel pop rivets, although the major source of the leaking is around the glass where the gasket material has failed. Vulkem will solve that. Other immediate outside projects include replacing the door latch (which is currently a regular house door knob) with the vintage one we bought. Pricey, but worth it for us to get the original look back. Unfortunately, we may end up with a patch around the vintage door latch, because there’s a patch there now and the patch is bigger than the latch itself. But, since I may need to repair the door at some point because is seems to be warped (doesn’t seal tight at the bottom of the opening), we may end up completely re-skinning the door anyway. First things first though…

Current plan:

1. Get her weather tight above the floor line.
2. Remove the belly skin.
3. Remove the floor.
4. Inspect the frame, sand blast if needed, repair as needed and paint.
5. Figure out tanks and plumbing layout.
6. Replace the floor.
7. Make new plan to see what to do next…:wally:

Chris & Kay

72BamaStream 05-19-2009 07:29 AM

So that's what she looks like "naked" huh? Wow you guys have done a ton of work! Well done...

Update here when you can! I look forward to watching your progress!

Minno 06-08-2009 07:47 PM

Front overhead cabinet gone
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We're making progress again. What we've been working on for the most part are the windows. Taking each one out, cleaning it, polishing the metal parts, replacing parts as needed, putting new gasket on, and then re-installing and adjusting them so the open and close easily and seal completely when closed. About 2 hours per window. So far, we have the 3 on the curb side done.

But rain and cooler weather brought us back inside for a bit. After hitting my head on the underside of the front overhead cabinet for more times than I care to admit, I decided it was time for it to go. I completely lost count of the number of rivets I had to drill out to remove it! I was going to count them, but gave up after 50 something...:) Anyway, the overhead piece is out. But not in one piece... :(

I was surprised to see that there are not any ribs supporting the curved end caps! No wonder they can dent so easily! But taking out the overhead really opened the front end of the trailer up! Now I can work on the front window without hitting my head every 5 to 10 minutes. Replacing it should prove interesting, but that's another day and another upcoming story.

Chris & Kay

Minno 06-14-2009 09:24 PM

New Door Latch
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Took a break from doing windows on Saturday and installed the new door latch on Little Girl. The regular house door knob, while functional, certainly wasn't in keeping with the looks of the her. Plus, I was worried that the knob would eventualy cause a good sized dent in her side. So replacing the latch was a project who's time had come...

A PO had replaced the airstream latch long ago, and had made a plate to cover the original hole. They also had moved the strike plate up about an inch or so in the door jamb by cutting the opening in the jamb quite a bit larger.

After removing the old door knob and the patch, I discovered a bit of a surprise - paper wasp nests! Fortunately, these are quite old, so no danger of getting stung! :)

The new latch fit the old hole perfectly. The screws on the inside of the door fit through the old screw holes, so actually installing the new latch was a breeze. I filled in the rivet holes that held the patch on with olymipic rivets, using vulkum to ensure they are sealed.

The interior of the door needs some cosmetic work, but we'll deal with that once we get to the cosmetic part of the interior design down the road. Waaaay down the road I'm thinking....

Moving the strike plate back to the oroginal position required a bit more work. I fashioned a new backup plate out of the old door patch, and used it to mount the strike plate. Seems to have worked out quite well. I'll be able to reinforce it once we have the inner skin off (I hope!) so it will withstand the rigors of traveling...

Once I got the door latch taken care of, we spent the rest of the weekend on the windows. Now, all of the opening windows have new gaskets, and they are cleaned, polished, parts replaced as needed, lubed, and all work quite well, and most importantly, seal tightly shut for the first time in many years! :):):)

Chris & Kay

danalee 06-15-2009 06:00 AM

I think you have the bug bad. Little Girl may be road ready sooner than later. That's ok you need to practice lots before you retire!

Maryw164 06-16-2009 02:24 PM

Nice work on the door latch. It looks so much better. Looks like you've had good sunny weather to work in. We got our new floor down finally, and will start on the bath tambour you sent us this week.Thanks again,

Your friends in Calif.

Steve & Mary

Minno 06-16-2009 03:39 PM

Two things:

Dannie, Having the bug bad is just ducky with us! :D

Mary, do you have a thread showing all of us your work? Love to see pictures of what you're doing. :)


Maryw164 06-16-2009 09:59 PM


No I have not yet had a chance to post to a dedicated thread. I want to start a blog with all the progress. I will send you a link when I do. We are just trying to get things done in order to go on our summer trip next month.


Minno 06-20-2009 05:09 PM

She's Titled!!!!
Received the MN title for Little Girl today! Woo Hoo!!!!! :clap:

Only had to send the DMV extra information once, and that was some photos of her. Needless to say, we're excited! :D:D:D

Chris & Kay

easyride 06-20-2009 08:24 PM

GT going thru the redo
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I`m going thru about the same thing on my GT,iy`s just been so hot here can`t do much without sweating to death.Picture of the beginning.Dave

mello mike 07-09-2009 01:03 PM

The door looks good, Chris.

Minno 08-15-2009 08:01 PM

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Been awhile since we posted any updates. We have several to post, so I'll try and catch up in the next couple of days. We kind of have several projects going on at the same time right now. The big ones are the vista view and wing windows, and then getting her ready to remove the floor.

We took out two vista views. Both had been repaired or replaced at some point, and both were installed with regular steel pop rivets. Both also leaked because the gaskets around the glass panes had deteriorated quite a bit. Took the first one out, and we cleaned it all up, removed as much of the old gasket around the glass as we could, and then resealed it with vulkum. I then re-installed using vulkum and Olympic rivets. This is the re-installed vista view below that looks all clean and pretty. :) Still need to shave the rivets, but I’ll wait until we get everything re-riveted and then do the shaver rental from Out of Doors Mart.

Then I took the second vista view window out, and we started cleaning it up. I then decided we should try to assembly line the cleaning and resealing of the windows, so we tackled taking out the two wing windows. The right wing window was replaced at some point, and like the vista views, it was re-installed with regular steel pop rivets. The left wing window was original, but the outside pane of glass had broken at some point. So, we wanted to remove it and see if the inside pane of glass could be moved to the front. Long story short on that – it could! :)

Getting the aluminum channel that holds the wing windows to the center window off was a challenge on the right side. :sad: I ended up using a cold chisel that I ground the end flat on to drive it up and off with a hammer. :bb: The left hand original channel came off pretty easily. Both are ok, but the bottom 1/16” of the right hand channel is kind of banged up and deformed from the chisel. A minute on the grinder or with a file should smooth that back out. Or, maybe I’ll get a replacement one from Out of Doors Mart.

Right now, the left wing window and vista window are ready to be re-installed. The right wing window needs one more shot of vulkum to finish sealing the inside. I’ll post more pictures on the installation once I can do that. Waiting for my order of the right kind of vulkum to arrive.

The vista view and right wing window openings are pretty chewed up since the replacement rivet holes did not line up with the original ones. And I discovered that in one place on each of these 3 windows that are still out, there is a section where 4 to 6 rivets do not anchor to the skins at all. I’ll post pictures on how I’ll deal with that when I post the window installation pics. Maybe next weekend, but I need to do a bit of body work on Kay’s car first.


harker70 08-15-2009 08:28 PM


Your work looks great - what part of MN are you in? We are in the NW suburbs of minneapolis and have a spot in airstream park in clear lake.

we have a 78 Arogsy that we bought a couple of months ago. I'm not doing any work on it right now, just using it, but hope to keep it together for a long time!


Minno 08-15-2009 09:23 PM

We live in Lexington/Circle Pines. Little Girl is parked in the back of our back yard (we have a 300 ft deep lot and our house sits at the front). We visited the Airstream Park in June during the open house, but we don't have a functional trailer to put there yet - at least not an airstream!

Minno 08-16-2009 04:04 PM

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Yesterday and today I changed my focus from windows and making her weather tight to getting her up of the ground and the axels off. I got her up on blocks yesterday. She's sitting level side to side, and front to back. At least the floor is level front to back in front of the axels. Starting at the axels, the floor seem to sag a bit towards the rear, but I fully expected to have some rear end sag since the floor is so rotted in the bathroom area.

I dropped the front axel yesterday, and then today we pulled the front axel out from under her, dropped the rear axel, and pulled it out as well. Did the stuff today in between showers. Got really dirty crawling around on the wet grass and dirt. Learned that crawling around on wet ground isn't as tolerable as it was maybe 25 years ago... :cool:

I have 13 to 14 inches of clearance under her now for removing the belly pan.

I have vulkum on order, and a 6 foot aluminum piano hinge that I'll cut into smaller hinges. My next steps are to get the windows re-installed and then clean up and put new gaskets on the three hatch doors I have left to do (rear, refer, and battery). I'll use the new hinge to replace the one on the rear hatch, and add hinges to the two side hatches. And most likely replace the hinge on the battery hatch. And then tackle replacing the front and middle roof vents.


Minno 09-04-2009 10:47 AM

Wing Windows
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Ok, I'm really behind on posting now. I have 3 updates I can post, so I'll do them over the next couple of days. Of course, by the time I get them done, I'll have more things to post. Been pretty productive working on Little Girl that past few weekends. :)

First project to post is the wing windows. But, I forgot to get pictures of how I dealt with the missing skin where the rivets did not go into anything. No, strike that. I didn't take pics because Kay had our camera on a girls Boundary Waters trip. And I didn't want to wait to get the wing windows re-installed. :D

So, following advice I had gotten from Terry (no longer at Inland RV – that Terry), I cut aluminum sheet to use as a filler. His specific instructions were:

What I would do in this case is cut and fit a piece of aluminum to the area of the window that the rivets don't attach to anything. I would do this by drilling the holes in the aluminum where the rivets should go, choose two holes, and thread a couple of #6 sheet metal screws through the rivet holes in the window into the sheet of aluminum. Leave the screws loose, but holding the sheet of aluminum loosely, so it can slide behind the outer skin of the trailer. Vulkem the area where the window will go, and put in your Olympic rivets, but just set them in place. After all the rivets are in place, go ahead and clamp them down. After you have secured all the other rivets, you can remove the sheet metal screws and install Olympics in those spots as well. This will secure the area with no rivets holding the skin, which could become a source of a leak.

Followed his advice, and it worked very well. :cool: All the rivets are now anchored into aluminum skin, and the extra piece on each window act a clamp on the part of the window frame that was cut too big for the rivets to anchor to.

Since it was sooooo hard to get the channel off that holds the wing window to the middle window, I was dreading putting that back on. But, after all the tweaking I did on the wing window frames to get them to lay in the opening properly and snugly, hammering the aluminum channel back onto the window was a breeze! A bit of vulkum on the channel to act a lubricant and both sides went back on without any issues.

Now, Little Girl has two non-leaking wing windows, with one pane of glass in each side, and both panes of glass set toward the outside of the frame. Makes a big different in how she looks on the outside front! Plus how clear the windows are to see through now.


mwells4654 09-04-2009 11:26 AM

Good luck - After this weekend trip (labor day camping) I am starting my on renovation.

Minno 09-06-2009 07:05 PM

Outside Hatches
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Took the 3 outside hatch doors off - the two side ones and the rear one. Left the battery hatch on for now (that'll come off when we redo the floor). Cleaned them up, and removed the old hinges on all 3 doors. Fastenal has aluminum piano hinges in various sizes (really called continuous hinges if you go looking for them in their catalog or web site). They come in 6 or 8 foot lengths depending on the width and thickness. I cut 3 hinges the appropriate lengths, and installed them on the 3 doors. Then put on new “D” gasket, and mounted the doors back onto Little Girl.

The rear hatch was easy – I just remounted the hinge using the existing holes for the rivets. I used aluminum pop rivets on the hatch side of the hinges, because they just barely protrude through the hatch cover, and are located directly behind the gasket, so the back sides of the rivets are covered with the gasket adhesive. A bit of vulkum in each pop rivet hole on the outside as extra insurance against leaks.

The two side hatches I flipped upside down so they are both hinged at the bottom now. The starboard side hatch next to the battery compartment fit upside down like a dream. The port side refrigerator access hatch didn’t quite close when put in upside down. It was hitting the underside of the upper frame. A little bit of grinder work on the frame, followed up with progressively finer grits of sandpaper took care of that.

Before mounting the hinges on the frame, I ground down the rivet heads that would be located under the hinge a bit – just enough to get them flat and even with the rest of the hatch frame. One of the pics below shows the ground down rivets. Then I used Olympic rivets to mount the hinges to the frame, avoiding the original rivets. All three hatchs now close and seal, and no longer fall out when I open them – a definite plus! :wally:


Maryw164 09-06-2009 07:26 PM

Chris & Kay,

Your progress is looking good. We changed our hatches to hinge at bottom too. I've got to get the motivation to get back to work at the floor redo, painting and finish my curtains, upholstery,etc. We're afraid to see whats lurking under the front carpet, hopefully nothing too bad.

Have a great weekend!


WILDRTEXAS 09-07-2009 08:27 AM

LOVE the doors hinged on the bottom...another project...another day. Thanks for posting all the photos. VERY MOTIVATING! Your progress is amazing!

mello mike 09-07-2009 12:05 PM

Looking good, Chris. I really like the piano hinged exterior doors. My rear door already has a piano hinge, though. Is that not OEM?

Minno 09-07-2009 02:55 PM

Yes, that one just needed the hinge replaced, but it stayed in the same position on the door and on the trailer. The other doors had those top hinges that slip into place, (weirdo J hinges) but ours were cracked and not very useable anymore. The doors fell off when you opened them very far. Inland Andy suggested the piano hinge idea in a thread we read, and it works very well. Fastenal has the aluminum hinges, and they are quite cheap as Airstream parts go. :)

Minno 09-07-2009 06:42 PM

Demo Done!!!
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:clap::clap: Finally! :clap::clap:

Spent most of the four days working on Little Girl. Finally got to tackle that job we all love sooooo much – removing the under belly. Actually, that was Friday, Sunday and today. Saturday was spent removing the inside skins.

Friday I started on removing the banana wraps. The front ones are quite mangled, but after seeing what a few others have done with even worse looking ones, I’m hopeful that I can get all the dents out and make them presentable. That’ll be a whole project by itself that I’ll post with pictures. Maybe something I can work on this winter after I finish my other furniture projects.

Saturday, Kay and I moved to the inside, and we removed all of the inside skins. I want to rewire her, and we knew a good portion of the insulation was missing. Well not missing per se, just relocated. Like into the back of the fridge, into the water heater compartment, inside the cabinets, etc., etc. Amazing what those little critters will use for nesting materials. So, between the wiring, insulation, and needing to take the lower skins out to remove the floor anyway, we decided to remove all the inside skins. The only part left up for now is the rear end cap, and that I’m not sure I can get out the door if I do take it down, so it’ll just stay in place for now. It’ll need to come dowe eventually…

Sunday, I tackled the center belly skin. I’ve read all the horror stories about all the junk and gunk you find hiding up there. And believe me, they are all true! OMG true!!!! :censored: Head scarf, respirator, and face mask were all extremely useful the last 2 days! I did get all the center belly skin off and out on Sunday, and cleaned out the center area of the frame. Today, I completed the under belly by dropping the side belly skin pieces. I removed the rivets that held is all up under the trailer, and let them flap down from the side. Going to try and avoid removing them completely, as I really don’t want to do a shell off floor replacement. Time will tell over the few weeks if that will be completely successful or not. I then got back under the trailer and cleaned out all the outrigger frame spaces.

So, here we are now, finally ready to start removing the floor so I can inspect the entire frame, repair what’s needed, sand blast, paint, and put the new floor back in. I know I need to rebuild part of the rear frame, and I found w cracked outrigger today, and two other outriggers that are missing a good portion of the top metal. Some replacements will be on order shortly. More updates later as we progress on the next step of the project.

Minno 09-07-2009 06:55 PM

Chris forgot to mention what I did on Sunday. I laid all the inner skin pieces on the grass, and scrubbed them off with a long handled scrub brush, and Zep orange cleaner/degreaser. The Zep worked great! The inner skins are much cleaner, and well rinsed by our 2 grandchildren who "helped" me. (Actually they did help!) I set all upright against various bushes, ladders, supports for roof of shelter, etc. to dry. It definitely wasn't the really gross messy job Chris got to do, but I'm taking credit where I can!


72BamaStream 09-08-2009 01:03 PM

Holy cow! So amazing to keep up with y'all's progress!
Nice job!!


Minno 09-19-2009 07:25 PM

Starting the floor and frame
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Spent all week kinda torn between what to work on - the floor and frame, or replace the two forward roof vents. Or go camping. As you can see by the new pics below, the floor and frame won out. :)

Spent part of Wednesday and Thursday evenings grinding the heads off the elevator bolts on the rear two sections of plywood. Friday evening I removed the rear piece of plywood, which was really easy since it was really rotted in many places. I’m surprised it came out in as big a piece as it did! I think I have enough of it to use as a template for the new plywood, but its iffy.

This morning, after having a new freezer delivered (old one died last weekend while Kay and I were out of town, so our daughter and her finance got to clean that mess up for us :mad:), and a run to Fleet Farm, we tackled the second piece of plywood. I cut it up the middle, and cut around the splice that seamed it to the third piece of plywood, and then we carefully pried it out of the c-channels on each side. As we removed the plywood, we added pieces of 1x4s to support the c-channel and shell over the outriggers.

The rear of the frame is kind of a mess. Lots of rust, and the box for the black water tank and its supporting frame are pretty well shot. One bit of good news though, the black tank is fine! Kay took it outside and filled it with water and let it sit for awhile. No leaks! And the fittings are all in good shape, so we can re-use it. One less thing to buy! :D

While Kay was doing that, I removed the c-channel from the rear of the trailer, and pulled out the very rusted piece of galvanized metal that was located under the rear hatch. It looks like she had a rear-end separation repair done at some point in her life, but time and water damage have mostly caused that repair to rust away. So, I’ll rebuild the parts that I need to in the rear frame area, including the box for the black tank, its supports, and do some repairs on the two rear outriggers to replace the missing metal. The frame has a few rust holes through it on one side, right after the black tank supports, so I’m going to weld on a patch to help ensure the frame doesn’t fail at some point down the road. It all looks and feels solid enough, so just extra prevention.

The final picture below is me sandblasting the frame. First time I have ever sandblasted anything. Once I figured out what was wrong with my new sandblaster (I won the 10% rule), I was able to quickly figure out how best to tackle blasting the frame. The rear is all sandblasted, and mostly ready for primer. Kay is planning on putting primer on tomorrow while I rebuild the blank tank box. Welding on frame repairs will fall in there somewhere too.

On a side note, I have added sandblasting to my list. Other items on this list are blowing wood cellulose insulation, wood floor installation and finishing, installing carpet, installing a paver driveway, hanging and taping sheetrock, and painting. This list is jobs you could never pay me enough to do for a living. Of course I do them for Kay, but then… :rolleyes::rolleyes:

In short, we’re making progress, forward progress! This report on forward progress is brought to you by the Department of Redundancy Department.

Minno 09-20-2009 07:23 PM

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Lot’s more progress today. Started by fabricating patches for the two outriggers that were missing metal on the top of them. The basic structure of the outriggers was still solid, so I made a patch for each one out of 22 gauge sheet metal and welded them on. Pictures 2292, 2293, & 2294 show the results of those two patch jobs.

I also fabricated a patch for the frame where there were holes rusted through it, and used a bit of angle iron as a new bracket for the new black water tank supports. Picture 2296 shows both of those welding projects. Not the prettiest welding job in the world, but my welds are structurally sound according to my son. He’s a Nuclear Machinist Mate in the Navy, and he helped me refine my welding techniques this past Summer. Our focus was strength of the weld, not making them pretty. He said I’ll figure out pretty with practice. :wally:

After I finished the welding, Kay came in and primed the frame that we have exposed (pic 2301). While she was doing that, I worked on fabricating a new black water tank box out of sheet metal. The old one was trash (pic 2307). Kay sort of got an action shot of me wielding my drill with the new box in pic 2306. :)

Finally, pic 2308 shows the trial fit of the new box in the new tank supports (it fit – yea!!!:bb:), and 2309 shows the bottom of the box primed. I primed the inside of it as well, and then flipped it over to prime the bottom.

Now to let the primer dry for at least 24 hours before coating with the top coat of paint. I’ll work on that in the evenings this week, so that hopefully, next weekend I can re-install the two rear sections of plywood subfloor, including the black water tank.


Minno 09-23-2009 05:14 PM

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Starting to put the second section of plywood subfloor back in. Yesterday, I cut the plywood to size, and primed the underside. Today, I lowered the rear stabilizer jacks, and used a bottle jack to raise the port side shell a bit. Then with Kay standing on the frame in the back, I was able to slip the plywood sheet under the rear skin, and between the two of us, we got it started into the c-channels without too much trouble. I tied the two sides together with the 1x4 you can see in the picture to keep them from spreading, and then used a baby sledge hammer and a block of wood to “gently tap” :bb: the plywood forward as far as you can see in the pic.

Stopping there for now, as I need to remove the next piece of subfloor, and repair the outrigger on the port side directly aft of the wheel well, which supports the front edge of this piece as well. It has a crack in it right next to where it attaches to the frame. Something I can weld a patch over. But, I need room to work on it, so I’ll repair the outrigger, and then move the plywood floor all the way into place. Then I can cut and fit the rear piece. Hopefully this weekend.

HiHoAgRV 09-23-2009 08:13 PM

Great progress. I'll be watching as ya'll move forward, the photos are making for a top notch thread.

Airslide 09-23-2009 10:19 PM

Wow.. I lost track of this thread. Minno your a mad man! Great progress.. you should be done by Wednesday!



Minno 09-24-2009 11:15 AM

Wow - that means a lot, thanks Vernon and Vin. :) Sometimes it seems like we're just barely making progress, plodding along. But then I need to sit back and remember I told Kay this was a 5 year project.

Our goal is to get the new plywood floor in this Fall, before the Minnesota winter sets in. Which could happen mid-October, or late January. :D I think we can do that over the next 3 weekends, and still get a camping weekend in later in October. We are already buying things to work on next year - one Maxxfan roof vent, one regular roof vent, new radio antenna are the 3 main things we have on hand right now. We'll pick up another Maxxfan vent over the Winter (next time they go on sale at Camping World).


72BamaStream 09-24-2009 04:00 PM

My God man! And Kay, of course :) 5 year project??? 5 year project??? I'm gonna start placing bets that you'll be be able to use Little Girl by... by... let's see, you bought her 2009... I bet you guys will be able to use her by... let's see, you've got a wedding in 2010... hmmmm... how bout tail end of 2012! Or... if the winter is bad that year (Minnesota right? :lol:)... let's say 2013! And even that sounds long to me considering the major progress you've made... wow... that's all I can say.

Not to hijack your thread but thanks for the fuse info for our situation last week. We have yet to figure it out, took our trip to Nashville anyways (who needs all the interior lights, right?). We came back this past weekend but I have yet to sort it out; don't worry, I still have your number and just may use it! For some aluminum advice and guidance of course :wally:

Keep up the great thread... Little Girl is looking great! She's growing up... (sniff... sniff... sob)... so.... quickly... (sniff... sob... sniff)! He he...

But seriously, great work!
Hi from the Deep South!

dmroot 09-24-2009 04:41 PM

Holy cow, this is quite a project! Look forward to seeing more of your progress. You take the cake in the major renovation category!

Minno 09-24-2009 06:41 PM

We're definitely not doing anything more than many others have done, or are doing also. Chris just likes the camera! Thank you for the kind comments. We finally feel we're making progress! I can't wait until we're actually INSTALLING things (besides the floor, but even that is exciting)! :bb:

So here I am last evening, just home from work. Chris is already out in the trailer, trying to slide the second to last panel in through the back under the skin, and it's not going well. So he has me balance on the back of the street side frame near the back to get it down a little so he can slide the panel in, and stand there while he "gently" whacks with all his might and a mini sledge hammer on the floor panel to get it in to place! I can't hang on to the wall to balance since it was jacked up and he was afraid I'd mess it up. It was an exercize in balancing!:blink:
Tonight, Chris repaired and sandblasted, and primed the outriggers just behind the wheel wells that had sagged a little bit. Once those are painted, then he can slide the floor panel all the way in place, and then the rearmost one. Then we can go on to the more foreward sections of the trailer. I'll be gone for the weekend, so he'll be without "supervision". :lol:

We miss ya, Shar!


HiHoAgRV 09-26-2009 06:38 PM


Originally Posted by Minno (Post 751611)
... I can't wait until we're actually INSTALLING things ...Kay

It's a real hi point when you realize the DE- is over and the CON- part of 'Struction' is underway.
Ya'll are making great progress, keep a steady pace on the Camping will begin sooner than you think.

Minno 09-26-2009 07:06 PM

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Well, the plan to simply “gently tap” the plywood in didn’t go as well as I had hoped it would. Oh, it slid up into place ok this morning, but then I realized that the entire shell had shifted to bit to port, and the c-channel was no longer on the outriggers. :blink: The plywood was all the way into the c-channel on the port side, but the channel itself was a good 3/8” to ½” off the outriggers. The starboard side c-channel was in the right place, but the plywood was only about ¼” in. What to do, what to do… Somehow I need to pull the two sides back together and get it centered on the frame again.

Off to Ace hardware to buy a few things… A bit turnbuckle and nuts to go on some ½” treaded rod I have. About 20 minutes worth of work, and $14 worth of parts, and I fabricated a big turnbuckle that will slip into the c-channels, and then I can clamp it onto a rib and the c-channel. Then using a crescent wrench, I can tighten the turnbuckle and pull the side back together. The vise grip and pipe wrench are simply to keep the threaded rod from turning while I tighten the turnbuckle.

I ended up using this contraption in 3 places – once at each rib and outrigger for that piece of plywood. I also had a small bottle jack under the trailer, and I first jacked up the c-channel at each outrigger to it would clear the top of the outrigger, and then I pulled the sides back into alignment. All in all, it took me about 45 minutes to get both sides back in alignment and centered on the frame again. The plywood is now fully embedded in the c-channel on both sides. :bb:

I then worked on the rear piece of plywood. Used ¼” luan plywood to make template of the curve, and then cut out the ¾” ply. Primed the edges and bottom, and then placed it in the trailer. So far, I have only the splice glued and screwed between the two pieces of plywood. It was starting to get dark, and I needed nourishment. So, off inside to shower and throw a frozen pizza in the oven.

Tomorrow, I’ll elevator bolt these two plywood pices to the frame, and re-install the c-channel around the rear, adding extra aluminum angle to reinforce the c-channel and that whole rear end shell to plywood to frame attachment. :wally:

Minno 09-26-2009 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV (Post 752143)
It's a real hi point when you realize the DE- is over and the CON- part of 'Struction' is underway.

Hi point will happen this week or next weekend. As soon as I finish putting the rear back together, we'll remove the rest of the floor from the axels forward. Once those 5 plywood sheets are out, the DE- part will be done! :)

Minno 09-30-2009 07:52 PM

Rear two subfloor sections in place
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Spent a good part of Sunday installing the elevator bolts. Seems that even the things I think should go pretty quickly end up taking two or three times as long as I expect it to. Good thing I don’t do remodeling estimates for a living! :huh: Only took 4 trips under Little Girl to get them all installed. First one was to drill up through the existing holes in the frame and through the plywood. Then I went inside and pushed the elevator bolts down through all the holes. Crawl back underneath, and install the lock washers and nuts. Thank goodness for my battery powered impact driver! But dang if I didn’t discover two frame holes that I missed the first time! :blink: So, crawl out, grab my drill, crawl back under and drill the holes. The back inside, push the bolts down through the holes, and crawl back underneath one more time to install the last two lock washers and nuts. I did not hammer the bolts over yet – I’m going to wait on that until I’m absolutely 100% sure I’m not going to have to remove any of the floor for any future item that may come up. Can’t think of anything, but you never know.

The last two evenings I spent installing the c-channel and reinforcements for the rear end. In the center section, I used a large aluminum angle to replace the very rusted and corroded piece of steel that used to be there. You can just see this new piece of angle aluminum to under the hatch in the right-hand picture below. It’s the shiny part peaking out from the hatch area. I bent it to match the angle of the old piece of steel that was there, which was a fun project all by itself. Basically, I clamped it to my workbench with a piece of angle iron, and “gently tapped” it with a baby sledge to bend it to the correct angle.

Attachment 88012 Attachment 88017

Here's the rear two sections of floor, all installed. I used a piece of 3/4" angle aluminum to replace the inside angle of the c-channel that was destroyed by the previous rear end sag repair.

Attachment 88013Attachment 88016

Here’s the outside rear. I replaced the piece of aluminum that runs underneath the plywood and extend out the rear on top of the frame. This is where the hinge for the bumper cover attaches to. This piece was about as far gone as the plywood.

Attachment 88014 Attachment 88015
Finally, here’s the two rear corners on the outside. The bottom of the rear skins were pretty chewed up by the old rear end separation problem she had, and the repairs made to try and fix it. Lots of extra rivet holes and wrinkles in the bottom edge. But, all of that will be covered by the rub rail eventually.

Right now, we are really happy that the rear of the trailer stayed level after I removed the jacks from under the back edge of the frame! :) And for the first time, the rear sections of floor are very solid to walk on. Lot’s of work to get to this point, but certainly worth the effort! :bb:

Tomorrow evening, on to removing the rest of the old floor.

Chris & Kay

mello mike 10-01-2009 10:29 AM

Looks fantastic, Chris. Congrats on your terrific progress.

Any reason why you decided to NOT go with Marine Grade Plywood for your subfloor?

Minno 10-01-2009 02:31 PM

Cost. $75 to $80 a sheet vs. the $15 per sheet we spent on BCX (on sale at Menards:)). This seems to be one of those items where different people have different opinions on whether you really need marine plywood or not. We took the stance of: the plywood that was in there lasted 30+ years, so if we seal it up really well, and do the regular maintenance things to ensure we don't have a long term leak, the BCX will be fine. We plan on putting a floating cork floor on top of the plywood, so again, BCX was fine for surface quality. We are putting the B side up, and priming the entire underside and edges with good oil based primer.


Minno 10-01-2009 07:10 PM

Little Girl Decor
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Ok, so we don't even have the floor all replaced yet, but it's never too soon to think about color scheme, right? I finished the bed quilt top for the AS this evening - it's been in the works on my sewing machine for 6 months now. Still needs quilting, whenever I get my quilter up and running. My plans are to match with one of the dark blue batik fabrics for valances and curtains, and to paint the walls with a 2 tone very light blue paint scheme with a double paint roller. The paint colors will be very close together so that it is a very subtle effect. Just my little unique contribution the the refurb. :band:

Airslide 10-01-2009 07:53 PM

That looks great. You are very talented. The pattern is awesome.


Minno 10-03-2009 05:33 PM

Deconstruction Done!!!!!!!
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Yippee!!! Woohoo!!! Deconstruction phase is done! :clap::clap:

I spent the last couple of evenings grinding off the heads of the elevator bolts, and the various bolts and screws in the c-channel all around the front of the trailer. That is until last night, when I had a ton of sparks, smoke, and blue flames come out of my dremel! :shock: And I only had 3 more screw heads and 2 nuts to go… So, first stop this morning was a trip to Harbor Freight and we bought a new motor tool.

Came home and finished grinding the screw heads off, and then cut the plywood sort of in half. Not directly up the center, but off to one side. Did that to make sure I didn’t cut into the fresh water tank. After lunch, Kay and I worked on getting all the plywood out. Some pieces came out really easy, and others – well let’s just say "not so easy" and leave it at that. The hardest one to get out was the front piece, because I discovered that there were six 1/4” bolts through the front edge of the plywood and frame. And they were under the c-channel. Plus, 4 more elevator bolts through the front c-channel, plywood and frame. :blink: Not sure if that was all original or not, as it looked like she’s had front end repairs as well as the rear end repairs we discovered earlier. Both curved skin sections under the front windows have been replaced at some point.

Anyway, the rest of the old plywood it out! Here’re a couple of pictures:

Attachment 88152 Attachment 88153

We discovered that all 4 outriggers around the wheel wells are sagging. These show the tow rear ones, but the front outriggers are just as bad. Each one has about a ½” sag. I’ll do the same repair to all four of them that I did to the one other sagging outrigger we found.

Attachment 88154 Attachment 88155

There is just one outrigger towards the front that has some holes rusted through it at the bottom. Overall, it’s still solid enough though, so I’ll just patch over the holes.

Attachment 88156

Finally, here’s the fresh water tank. It holds water, but seems to be a bit green inside. Kay has faith that she can get it cleaned out though, and has been reading about how others have cleaned their water tanks here in the forums.

Attachment 88157

Tomorrow, welding repairs, sand blasting, and priming the frame. :)

pbearsailor 10-03-2009 05:51 PM

Congrats on reaching the bottom, Chris. It is a great feeling to make it to that point. Beautiful quilt, Kay, I can see lots of hours there. :wally:

steve :)

Minno 10-04-2009 06:17 PM

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Didn't get as far as I had hoped today. I started off sandblasting the frame. 5 hours of sandblasting… That's me below, after I took off the face mask and respirator – on my way to the shower. After getting cleaned up and feeling a bit more human again ;), I worked on repairing the 4 outriggers by the wheel wells. Not only did all four sag, I discovered that one of them had a cracked weld where it was welded to the frame, and another crack on the little supporting arm on the back. I managed to get all four outriggers repaired before it got too dark to work easily. Plus, it was supper time. :) Still have a couple of outriggers to repair, and then I can prime and paint the frame.

goransons 10-04-2009 06:40 PM

Nice work, you'll love it when you have a nice painted, solid frame with clean solid plywood on top. Home free from there!

Minno 10-08-2009 05:00 PM

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Yesterday, it was finally warm and dry enough that I took most of the day off work and worked on Little Girl. I got the rest of the plywood cut to size and the bottom of each piece primed, and we primed the frame. Kay got home from work and helped me finish painting. Now we need to wait about a week based on the current weather reports for it to be warm enough to paint the frame, and then install the new subfloor.

In one of our fanciful moments at the end of the day, we did something normal for us, painted inside the walls. I can’t tell you how many “I K” and “I C” there are hidden inside the walls of our house for some future owner to find… :) At least one in each room. We’ve remodeled each room in our house at least once over the last 26 years – down to the studs remodeling projects and some additions. We also christened Little Girl while we were at it. ;)


Airslide 10-08-2009 08:47 PM

Can you define "Christened" without embarrassing us :lol:

Seriously, Great progress!


Minno 10-08-2009 09:11 PM

Ok, obviously you're not a sailor.:brows: In sailor lingo, christening means naming the ship, or in our case, the trailer. There's hope for you though, since you think like a sailor.:brows:


Airslide 10-08-2009 09:16 PM

A sailors life for me!
It's good to know there's hope for me :lol:

I'm going to go remind my wife! (just as soon as I spend a few more hours here on the forums..)


kmoore 10-09-2009 12:22 AM

You all have set quite a high water mark for production and motivation! I hope I do not have the extensive repairs that you have undertaken because with my available time you have done afew years worth of work.

Great job!

Minno 10-09-2009 06:35 AM

Hi Kmoore,

Welcome to the forums! Yes, this was (is) quite an undertaking. I still think of her as a 5 year project, but we’ll see how long it really takes. There’s a ton of information here on the forums, including several other complete remodel projects, which is where we got the inspiration to take on our Little Girl project. And this is stuff we both really enjoy doing, so that keeps us motivated. And a wealth of people to answer questions that come up and provide ideas. And people seem to love pictures (including us). So post pictures of whatever it is you’re doing with your AS! :)

Good luck with your project, and thanks!


mello mike 10-09-2009 04:39 PM

While you have your Sovereign frame exposed you may want to add the "stiffiners" to the frame just aft of the wheel wells. This helps prevent the frame from sagging/drooping. You can make your own or buy the kit from the factory. You probably already know this but there's lots of info on this forum about this modification.

Minno 10-09-2009 06:19 PM

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the advice. With all the rear end separation stuff, I mostly forgot about frame sag, other than to check our frame and verify it's not sagging. So, I didn't think about adding stiffeners. But you're right, now would the time to do that. I’ll need to do some poking around the forums and research that again.


mello mike 10-10-2009 08:31 AM

I've really enjoyed this thread. It's nice to see what my Airstream actually looks like beneath the floor and behind all of the walls. And you've given me ideas for my trailer.

Are you going to add a gray tank? What are your plans for insulation replacement between the belly pan and subfloor?

This winter I plan on dropping my belly pan to replace the pink insulation with another type of material. Not sure which, though. Still researching the alternatives.

Minno 10-10-2009 09:43 AM


Originally Posted by mello mike (Post 757642)
I've really enjoyed this thread. It's nice to see what my Airstream actually looks like beneath the floor and behind all of the walls. And you've given me ideas for my trailer.

That’s very cool to know that we’re helping others. That’s why we decided to document our refurb like this, and why I take so many pictures and post them. :)


Originally Posted by mello mike (Post 757642)
Are you going to add a gray tank? What are your plans for insulation replacement between the belly pan and subfloor?

Yes, we’re going to add a gray water tank. Hopefully, we can find one that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg that will fit inside the belly pan in the space above the axels. Or at the most, drop down an inch or so below the belly pan like the water tank does. I’m willing to gang two tanks together if I need to in order to get good capacity. That’ll be a next Summer (2010) project (hopefully).

For insulation we’re leaning very strongly towards prodex (sp?), both in all the walls and under the floor. The floor itself we plan on using a floating cork floor.


Originally Posted by mello mike (Post 757642)
This winter I plan on dropping my belly pan to replace the pink insulation with another type of material. Not sure which, though. Still researching the alternatives.

Our work is temporarily on hold since we got a half inch of snow last night! :shock: And it’s currently 27 degrees F. Above zero, but still a bit too cold to paint the frame. :) We still hope to get the floor mostly installed next weekend, when Indian Summer is supposed to be here. I don’t plan on bolting the two plywood panels to the frame that go over the axels until we have the gray water tank thing all figured out.

My other winter plans are to work on the layout, plan electrical and plumbing, and dream good Airstream dreams. Plus do a few woodworking projects. I need to build another crib for an arriving grandchild in March. :) And help plan our daughter’s wedding for June 2010. My allowed input to all wedding plans is to be a bank acocunt... :blink:

Winter Little Girl projects also include repairing the lower and upper wheel well covers with fiberglass and epoxy, and trying to straighten out the 4 banana wraps.


Minno 10-17-2009 03:44 PM

WOOHOO!!! The frame is painted the rest of the way! I went out and started when the temp hit 48 (paint can says 50 degrees - close enough), and Chris joined me when he finished his plumbing project in the house. It's supposed to be 35 degrees tonight, so we bought some 4mil plastic and wrapped the lower part of the trailer to the ground in plastic, and put a couple of small portable heaters in her to keep it warm overnight and let the paint dry appropriately. Tomorrow the floor goes in! Supposed to be 56 or so here.
Then we'll have to button her up for the winter. Next spring (or so, depending on daughters wedding plans), we'll be able to start wiring, etc. I'm just happy we didn't end up leaving the trailer without a floor for the winter. The weather has NOT been "normal" for October in Minnesota, so far.


Minno 10-18-2009 07:40 PM

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Success!! :band: Beautiful day today – mid 60’s and sunny! So, we spent a good part of the day working in Little Girl installing the floor. Overall, installation went much better and easier than we expected. Today, we started at the front, and the first piece went in soooo easy! We laid it flat on the frame, and rotated it into position without any trouble at all. :) But, we thought we shouldn’t get cocky about it all, so we anticipated more difficulty with the rest of the sheets. And lo and behold, we weren’t disappointed!

The first trick was getting the full size sheets into the trailer, and then orientated so we could start one end into the c-channel, and then lower the other end (without forgetting to add glue to the plywood strip that runs under the seam to strengthen it), pushing the skin out on both sides so the plywood would lay flat on the frame, and then pull the second side c-channel onto the plywood.

I planned ahead a bit, and stuck pieces of sheet metal on top of the outriggers and under the c-channel on both side, so that when we pushed the sides out to install the plywood, the c-channel did not drop completely off the outrigger. Learned that lesson installing the two rear sheets.

Attachment 89305 Attachment 89306

Here are a couple of pics showing the sheet metal we used to guide the c-channel back on top of the outriggers as we pulled the side together onto the plywood.

The shell does definitely flex enough to get plywood sheets in without having to cut them in half. The trick is not to lose the c-channel completely off the outriggers and plywood. Another trick is being able to pull the sides back in fully, and the contraption I built and used for the rear sections (post #40 above) worked wonderfully!

Attachment 89307
Here, the first two sheets are installed.

The third sheet ended up being the most difficult to get installed. Suffice it to say, that if you forget to cut the 1/2” notch out of sheet 2 and 3 for the door frame, you are never, ever going to be able to pull the sides together enough. 45 to 60 minutes later, we had that little problem fixed and continued on.

General installation was to install a plywood sheet into the c-channels, and then glue and screw the spline on for the seam, and then install the next plywood sheet, adding glue to the spline, and then screws once the sheet was centered and fully snugged up to the first one.:hammer:

After we got the first 3 sheets in, I crawled under the trailer and drilled holes up through the center cross frames. Kay then fed elevator bolts down through the holes, and I put the lock washers and nuts on and then tightened them up with my impact driver. Went much faster then when I did the two rear sheets by myself.

We then installed the final two sheets, which were really easy to get into the trailer since we could slip them in through the wheel well openings. I did have to trim a ½” off one long edge of the last sheet to get it to fit. My measurement of the first sheet’s length must have been a ½ inch too long.

Attachment 89308
Final pic showing all the new plywood installed! :bb:

Now the hard part – buttoning her up for the winter. Probably won’t be too many progress posts for a few months. This winter we’ll dream, work on floor plans, and repair the wheel well covers after I build a few furniture projects.

dieseleagle 10-19-2009 05:26 AM

Looks terrific. It always looks like soooo much space at this stage.

kelseygus 10-19-2009 10:36 AM

Hello! i was looking at the front door lock assembly. it appears you replaced the non original lock with an original . I have the original rectangular look and need parts, where did you get this replacement? Thanks John

Minno 10-19-2009 11:01 AM


Originally Posted by kelseygus (Post 761152)
Hello! i was looking at the front door lock assembly. it appears you replaced the non original lock with an original . I have the original rectangular look and need parts, where did you get this replacement? Thanks John

Hi John,

Yup - the replacment house-hold door latch bugged the heck out of both of us, plus it was starting to put a round dent on the side of the trailer where it hit. Replacment was pricey, but worth it to us. We got it at Out of Doors Mart (ODMRV , Out-of-Doors Mart). Great guys to work with.


mello mike 10-19-2009 04:33 PM

Looks great, Chris and Kay. What about the wheel well cutouts? Or are you going to leave it like that until Spring?

hessehesse 10-19-2009 06:40 PM

Minno - this is incredible (and scary). I'm curious, is there a way to remove the floorboards WITHOUT taking out the C-channel (and drilling out the olympic rivets etc) that are attached to it? So, if I unbolt the c-channel from the frame - would it be impossible to slide out old wood and slide in new?

Globie64 10-19-2009 06:41 PM

Wow, what a great job! It is inspirational to see something done right... Good luck with that tank!


Minno 10-19-2009 08:09 PM

Mello Mike: yes we're leaving the wheel well cutouts for spring - Chris wondered how long it would take for someone to ask!:lol:

Hessee squared :D : We did exactly that: unbolted the c channel from the frame, slid the old wood out (or rather, broke it out in pieces since it was so rotted in spots), slid the new wood in and rebolt down. We don't have everything totally bolted yet, but will probably finish in the spring. There are dozens of screws in addition to the bolts holding the c channel to the plywood, that have to be removed too. They are actually harder to see and get out than the bolts because they were so rusted.

Globie64: Thanks! :blush:We've learned it all from the forums....and years of remodeling our house, of course. Do it right, and do it yourself!:bb:

Kay (a rather sore and achy Kay)

Minno 03-07-2010 03:17 PM

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Wow - been a long winter. Not that we haven’t kept busy – Kay has been quilting and I’ve had a couple of woodworking projects ( and a lingerie chest that I just finished). Plus working on wedding plans for our daughter (June 17th). And every so often, I’d work on floor plans, wiring diagrams, and other airstream related stuff to keep the dream alive. We bought a few items over the winter as well. A new Winegard TV antennae, 3 new vents (2 MaxxFan and one standard vent without a fan – all smoke vent covers so they match), a new Marinco 30 amp connector and shore power cord, and a matching Marinco marine TV coax/phone connector. Both are chrome so they’ll blend in nicely. Trying to get the rest of the stuff we’ll need to make her completely weather tight next Summer.

Yesterday though, I was finally able to get back doing work on Little Girl! Woo Hoo!!! :band:

First project, since it’s one I can work on in my workshop, it to repair the black plastic inner wheel wells. They both had come loose over the years, and between that and the eventual axel sagging, both had sustained some damage. There were several holes and about a half dozen cracks in each one, but, nothing that couldn’t be fixed with a bit of epoxy and fiberglass fabric. These show the worst of the damage on one of the wheel wells.

Attachment 97630 Attachment 97631

Here’s the current stage of the project. One layer of fiberglass and epoxy over each crack and hole on both the inside and outside of the plastic to give two layers total for all of the cracks. I then added a third layer of fiberglass on the inside of each of the holes to strengthen them a bit more. Kinda ugly looking right now, but what the heck, they’re wheel wells! :)

Attachment 97632 Attachment 97633
Attachment 97634
I do plan on sanding them a bit to get rid of the high and rough spots that’ll end up collecting road grime, plus I’m thinking about spraying an undercoat on the inside of the wells to further protect them. Just a spray undercoating that I can pick up at the local auto parts store - nothing fancy.

Not sure what the next project is, or when it’ll happen. Even though it’s been in the upper 40’s the past several days, we still have a good 4 to 6 inches of snow on the ground. But, Spring is coming… :clap:


Minno 04-24-2010 01:03 PM

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A couple of weekends ago, we got the bug real bad again... Decided to not do anything we needed to do and do something we wanted to do, which was work on Little Girl for a day.

While Kay worked inside removing the rear inside end cap and the rest of the insulation and wiring, I tackled the front roof vent. This vent was completely missing its cover when we bought her. I had fabricated a quick panel out of 3/4” plywood covered in plastic and held in place with a combination of elevator bolts, pieces of wood to act as fillers, washers, and wing nuts. Stayed on the 1300 mile trip home and stayed watertight. But, a functioning roof vent that’s easy to open and close, and perhaps actually provide some ventilation was needed.
Attachment 101197

For the front and rear vents, we bought Maxxfan vents over the winter, and a standard non-fan vent for the middle. Actually, we bought a lot of stuff over the winter that I hope to get installed this year, but I digress.

After figuring out how to get up on the roof under the tarp lean-to I have erected over Little Girl without killing myself or the trailer, I spent a couple of hours drilling and then grinding out the 40 odd rivets that held the old roof vent in place. Then spent some time cleaning of the old sealant, and marking the new opening. About 15 minutes with tin snips, and the new opening was ready for the new vent. Lots of vulkum and 18 stainless screws later, she was installed.
Attachment 101198 Attachment 101199 Attachment 101200

On a side note, while I was up there, I quickly discovered that the old TV antenna was actually replaced at one point, and the PO, like in so many other places, used regular steel pop rivets. And a boat load of silicone. Since the antenna was falling apart already and non-functional, I removed it. If you look at the pictures below a bit closely, you can see where the silicone has eaten away at the aluminum skin. It’s close to paper-thin in a few spots. I’ll reinforce that area with a patch before installing the new TV antenna. Right now, it’s cleaned up a bit and covered with duct tape to keep the critters out.
Attachment 101201 Attachment 101202


Globie64 04-25-2010 01:01 PM

wow, so that's what silicone does to aluminum, yikes!

Minno 04-26-2010 10:06 AM

Yah - not pretty. That's why I thought I'd post a couple of pics.

Minno 05-30-2010 03:26 PM

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Now that most of the projects that we need to get finished before our daughter’s wedding in a couple of weeks are done, we’re finding a bit more time to work on Little Girl again. Since our last post in April, we’ve finalized the wiring diagram and we started running wiring. We’re starting with the 110 VAC wiring, and I decided to use the clad style, mostly because when I went to buy 12/2 wire, it was on sale… :) Plus I figured a little bit of extra insurance against critters chewing though it couldn’t hurt either.

Attachment 103583 Attachment 103584Attachment 103585
We’re moving the converter/charger to a future cabinet that will sit just aft of the fridge. So, I started all the 110 VAC wiring runs from here, and went up the wall to the wire chases in the center of the roof, and then either forward or aft.

One thing I learned last Thursday – I’m terrible at estimating the linear feet of wire needed to run 6 separate circuits inside an 8 by 28 foot room. I figured 150 feet of wire would be plenty, but I’m about 30 to 40 feet short right now. So, one of my home store runs here shortly will be to buy another 50 feet of 12/2 wire.

Attachment 103586
Friday evening, I installed screens on the screen fames, and re-mounted them so we can open the windows and not end up with a trailer full of bugs.

Attachment 103587Attachment 103588
Yesterday morning, I “installed” a temporary 12 VDC power source so I could run the new roof vent fan. Works great! Really pulls the air though the trailer and will make working inside her a bit more bearable in 90 degree heat like we had yesterday. Ran the fan on the battery all day yesterday. Then I plugged in the charger for the night. I've been thinking about running a temporary circuit from my workshop out to the trailer so I can run the a/c. But, we’ll see how things go over the next few weeks to figure out if that’s worthwhile or not.

Attachment 103589Attachment 103590
I spent the bulk of yesterday afternoon cleaning the old vulkum and silicone off the windows and hatches, and resealing them all. The goal is get her watertight so than I can remove the tarp that protects her right now. The tarp is very much in the way of replacing the two remaining roof vents and TV antennae.

Attachment 103591Attachment 103592
We also discovered a few popped rivets and 2 missing rivets in the roof on the port side by the a/c and going forward 3 ribs. 2 or 3 buck rivets in each rib had popped free of the ribs, with one gone AWOL in two ribs. I drilled out the popped rivets and replaced them all. Amazing how far the shell can pull away from the ribs with 3 missing rivets (a good ½” or so).

Right now, we feel pretty confident that we have the water leaks fixed in the shell and around the windows and hatches. Next project (hopefully tomorrow) is to tackle the door and get it sealed and water tight. Then back to the roof vents and TV antennae.


mello mike 05-30-2010 05:21 PM

Looking good, Chris.

Minno 05-31-2010 06:17 PM

10 Attachment(s)
Another very productive day working on Little Girl. :)

First project today was to tackle the door and see if I could get it to seal better at the bottom. After reading some of the threads about adjusting doors, and re-reading the service manual, I thought this would be a fairly straight forward project that was destined for failure… Simply put, I didn’t think it work very well. But, I was dead wrong – the adjustment procedure in the service manual works quite well! With one minor glitch that I’ll get to.

Attachment 103647
Here’s what we started with. The bottom front edge of the door has about a ¾” gap to the frame, and the rear of the door has about a ¼” gap.

Attachment 103648
Following the service manual procedures, I drilled out the pop rivets that held the bottom inner skin to the door frame. In doing this, I discovered that several of the pop rivets were already missing their heads, which probably contributed to the gap.

Attachment 103649Attachment 103650
The manual says to re-bend the arch of the door to match the curve of the door frame, re-drill the rivet holes and put in new pop rivets to hold the new arch of the door in place. One minor problem with that – getting the inner skin out so you can re-bend the arch! The door frame overlaps the inner skin by about 1/16 of an inch all the way around. Not much, but just enough that I had to pry the inner skin out of the frame before I could attempt any re-bending of the arch. I trimmed the inner skin down a tad on the sides and bottom to make it easier to re-assemble. I was ok in doing this because one of our future projects is to replace the inner door skins since they are so beat up.

Attachment 103651Attachment 103652
I made a template of the curve of the door frame, and taped it to the door using that magical all purpose tool – duct tape. As you can maybe see in the pictures, the door arch is now about an 1¼” off where it needs to be at the bottom. The right edge of the template should line up with the inner edge of the door frame as you’ll see in the next set of pictures.

Attachment 103653Attachment 103654
Using a piece of plywood to protect the side of the trailer, I used a second piece of wood as a brace to hold the bottom of the door away from the trailer while I pushed in on the middle of the door by the lockset. I pushed until the curve of the door matched the template, and then held it there while I drilled new rivet holes. I installed a cleco in the new hole, and then checked the curve again. I repeated this process until I had a half dozen or so new rivet holes on the outside edge of the door, all held by clecos. I then moved to the hinge side of the door and repeated this process with a template taped to that edge of the door, until I had about a dozen new rivet holes all held with clecos. I was amazed that this worked so well! Hard to see in the picture, but the inner edge of the door frame lines up with the template perfectly.

Attachment 103655 Attachment 103656
I then replaced the clecos one at a time with pop rivets, and checked the fit of the door. Bottom fits perfectly now. I installed a new gasket, and it seems to seal very well around the bottom half of the door, and most of the top half. I still have a gap at the top forward corner curve of the door that I’ll need to deal with when we replace the inner skins, For now, I doubled up the gasket and it seems to seal ok. :flowers:

The water test is still to come though… :blink:

Minno 05-31-2010 06:33 PM

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Second project today was to patch the hole in the roof where the old TV antenna was attached. But before getting to the actual work on the patch, I set up a plywood platform on top of the tarp frame we put up around Little Girl last summer.

Attachment 103661Attachment 103662Attachment 103663
This is a heck of a lot easier than working on a ladder and climbing on top of the roof! I can lie down on the plywood, and the roof is only about 12 inches below the top of the tarp frame. Now that we have her pretty water tight, I can work on the rest of the roof items by cutting holes in the tarp for access. Once all the roof leaks and vents are taken care of, we’ll remove the tarp and frame.

Attachment 103664Attachment 103665
Making the patch and installing it was very straight forward. I cleaned off the top of the trailer with a wire brush. As I mentioned in post 71, the old antenna had gobs of silicone under the base and around it in a vane attempt to keep it from leaking years ago.

Attachment 103666Attachment 103667Attachment 103668
I cut a piece of aluminum for the patch, and drilled all the holes to rivet it in place. I then put a liberal amount of vulkum on the underside of the patch, and olympic riveted it in place.

We plan on installing the new TV antenna in this same location, but that’s another project and another day.:bb:


Aviator 05-31-2010 07:19 PM

Chris and Kay,

What a great thread and awesome work on Little Girl. Thank you for documenting it so well! I look forward to your future posts. From what I have seen, she will be beautiful when you finish.

72BamaStream 06-01-2010 08:32 PM

Hey Chris & Kay!
Oh my gosh... what else can we say but: wow. It is always amazing to see what you kids are up to... I hope all the the peeps know that you two are only 18 & 19 years old. Respectively. Little Girl looks amazing! Good luck with the wedding:)
Hugs from the deep, deep, unfortunately-now-oil-soaked, South,
Shar & Tina:D

Minno 06-02-2010 04:41 PM

18 and 19 years old, eh? So, our youngest child of 23 is getting married........ :angel: As I recall, I think we could be YOUR parents! But, we're young at heart, so mental age we're really only 16. Chris IS older than I am though, 11 whole days makes a lot of difference!:cool:
Poor Little Girl currently looks like an aluminum tent! But the floor feels so different than the old one, and the windows seal, and the door now shuts all the way (no more snaking the extention cord out the bottom of the door!:D AND, the new vent fan pulls a huge amount of air through the front half of the trailer. Can't wait to get the other 2 installed, and water test her for any hidden leaks!
It's good to hear from you all! Esp. Shar and Tina! Stay tooned, especially when Chris starts building furniture - he's GOOD!


72BamaStream 06-03-2010 06:11 AM

Age-schmage... you two are definitely young-at-heart...
So, in the grand-scheme of things is Little Girl at the place you hoped her to be at this time in 2010? Ahead of "schedule"? My guess is, even with a MN winter, y'all are further along than you had planned... am I right? I remember you saying it's a "5 year project"... I just don't see Little Girl being in dry-dock for 4 more years.
I can't wait to see the furniture/cabinet progress!! Judging by Chris' meticulousness I can only imagine that his wood-work is gorgeous... EXCITING!
Our door on Luna still doesn't latch so I'm gonna have to read back through his notes on what worked for Little Girl... l think the screen door was removed or repaired at some point (judging by the holes and the rivets on the hinge) and the change appears to be keeping the door from catching/latching... the door can't be pushed in far enough to latch... anyways, another thread....
Happy Thursday!

Minno 06-03-2010 05:10 PM

Luna? Sounds more like female name than a male name! Did us Navy types rub off on you? :D

Are we where we thought we’d be? Hard to say really. Our goal last year was to replace the floor, and we did that. The goal this year is to get the inner skins back on, so we’ll see where we end up when winter sets in. Which means all the wiring and insulation needs to be installed. I think we’ll have the time available after the wedding – it’ll be a question more of available funds. We have 80 to 90% of the wire now (I think:blink:). Insulation might be pricey depending on what we do. Jury is still out on prodex vs. reflectix vs. fiberglass.

I have adjusted a bit in my estimate. She's now a 4 to 5 year project. :)

Happy Thursday evening!

Minno 06-07-2010 06:41 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Rainy weekend. That kept me from replacing either of the two remaining roof vents. :( But, since she’s still under the canopy, I was able to work on a couple of other projects. First off, I had bought another 50 feet of 12/2 clad wire, so I finished the rough 110 VAC wiring. :)

Then I started working on replacing the marker lights. This is in part an upgrade to LEDs, and in part because when we picked Little Girl up last year, none of the marker lights, or any of the other running lights worked. Rather than try and fix the old lights, I decided to replace them with LEDs. The ones we bought look almost like the original ones. Same lens, but you can tell that they are LEDs instead of regular bulbs.

Replacing them was pretty easy. Drill out the two rivets that held the original ones in place, clean up the shell underneath where the lights were (both inside and outside), drill a new hole for the wires, put on some vulkum, and install the new lights with a pair of #8 stainless sheet metal screws. Here are a few work in progress pictures showing the rear marker lights.
Attachment 104408 Attachment 104409 Attachment 104410 Attachment 104411 Attachment 104412

One interesting thing I found was under the center and starboard rear marker lights were two rather large holes, maybe an inch in diameter. None of the other marker lights had these holes. No idea what they were for, but they were sealed up well so they didn’t leak. And everything looked original when I took the marker lights off.

Attachment 104413 Attachment 104414
Here’s the new front and rear marker lights.

Attachment 104415
One last thing I did Sunday evening was I replaced the old radio antenna.

Little stuff, but it all needs to get done.

Minno 06-28-2010 04:37 PM

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Wow - didn't realize exactly how much we’ve accomplished since our last post. We’ve managed to grab a few evenings and a weekend afternoon or two over the last few weeks to work on Little Girl. Sanity from all the wedding and business travel pressures.

Before you ask, the wedding went very well, and I’m so glad it’s over! :) We had an absolute blast that week, but I think I got about 5 hours of sleep the entire week. Not per night you understand – 5 hours total spread out over 5 or 6 days. Kay faired a bit better, but not by much. Then last week I was in Las Vegas for a tech summit, so no rest for the wicked until I got back. Kay and I went camping in our other trailer for the weekend, and basically done nothing but read, eat, and sleep. But we did come home early on Sunday so we could work on our project again.

Anyway, I’ve kind of lost track of exactly when we did some stuff. I’ve working on the 12 volt wiring, starting with the umbilical cord to all of the outside lights. One afternoon (probably the Sunday after the wedding) I replaced the rear roof vent. The old one was actually pretty intact, but we want another fan vent, so it’s in place now. Like the front one, it’s temporarily connected to the battery so we can use them while working on the trailer. They do move a fair amount of air!

This past weekend, we finished running the umbilical wiring to the rear of the trailer, and I connected all of the running lights. Bonus – they all work!!! Tested them by connecting them to the battery. Pics of wiring - not the most exceting thing in the world... :cool: From left to right: Under the front window, over the front window, middle of the trailer, and the rear window area.
Attachment 105854Attachment 105855Attachment 105856Attachment 105857

While I worked on that on Sunday, Kay worked on removing the tail lights. That was an interesting project because we had no idea how the heck they were attached to the skins. Come to find out they’re riveted on from the inside. We thought those 6 rivets per light just held the inside cover in place, not the whole cast aluminum tail light assembly.

Got them off, and brought them into my work shop, and took them apart.
Attachment 105858Attachment 105859

The cans are pretty much shot, but we expected that, and I already have the LED replacements to install.
Attachment 105860

Now we just need to fine tune the fit on the LED lights and figure out exactly how to hold them in place. I know Vulkum has been used to glue them into the housing, and I’m thinking that’s what we’ll do as well.
Attachment 105861

I also bought replacement tail light lenses so we can maintain the original look, and again, some experimenting will need to be done to figure out how to mount them to the LED lights. I read that Mello Mike used gorilla glue, so maybe I’ll try that as well.
Attachment 105862

I do need to modify the housing a bit on the back side to allow the connectors to clear completely, but that’s a fairly easy project I think. Just a bit of grinding.
Attachment 105863

The more interesting project is my idea on how to maintain the fiber optic function. More on that in a later post once I see if that experiment is going to work or not.


MrBeast 07-04-2010 11:06 PM

Man I am impressed with what you have done, looks like you are going to have a mighty fine trailer on your hands. I am really glad you posted the pics of the tail light housings, it is what I was thinking about doing seeing as how I run those LED's on everything I can, and they are a thousand times better than incandescent bulbs, and they last forever too.

I also used to drive truck over the road, you can really tell the difference when you have LED tail and turns because people can see them much better and pay better attention to what you are doing, it is a huge help when towing a trailer, especially a long one.

Minno 07-05-2010 02:35 PM

9 Attachment(s)
I quite agree - LEDs are the way to go for best visibility. Our current SOB trailer has them, and I think they are much more visible both during the day and at night.

Started out working on replacing the center roof vent today while Kay worked on running 12 VDC wiring. Got the old roof vent out, and enlarged the opening to 14 x 14 inches. Meanwhile, Kay ran the rough-in wiring to finish circuit #2 (front lights inside the trailer), and then for circuits 3 (furnace) and 4 (control/monitor panel, water pump and electronic ignition control for the water heater). Then we took a break for lunch. As we’re finishing lunch, Kay notices the darkening sky, and goes in to check the radar weather page. Sure enough, the evening rain was arriving several hours early! I grab some plastic and duct tape, and seal up the opening in the roof just as the rain starts to fall.

Being rained out of any outside projects, I went into my workshop and worked on the tail lights.

One of my goals was to keep the fiber optic functional to some degree while still upgrading to LEDs. My solution was to fabricate a new mount for the fiber optic on the back of the tail light assembly, and install a second LED just for the fiber optic. While this does not guarantee the tail lights work just because the fiber optic lights up, it does maintain the coolness of the fiber optic tail tell. And we check trailer light operation daily anyway. :)

I started by fabricating two pieces to hold the fiber optic mount and the second led out of sheet aluminum. Nothing real fancy, but it works.
Attachment 106309

The two pieces nest inside each other. The shorter piece with the notch is where I mounted the LED. Glued on with vulkum. I picked these LED bulbs because they have a flat back so I could glue them in place.
Attachment 106312

Here’s the assembly put together, and then mounted on the back of one of the tail lights. The center of the fiber optic mount lines up directly over the middle LED of the cluster bulb.
Attachment 106311 Attachment 106313Attachment 106314

With the fiber optic LED thingy mounted, I turned my attention to the LED tail and backup lights. The backup lights fit into the housing just fine, but the red tail lights didn’t. I had to sand about 1/16” off of the outer flange of the LEDs (all the way around) to get them to fit inside the housing completely. My disk sander made short of that.

To mount them, Inland Andy said to use vulkum, so I put a fairly good bead of vulkum in the bottom of the housing and stuck them in place, making sure the DOT wording was right side up and centered on the bottom of the LED.
Attachment 106315

Here’s a couple of pics of the back side of the housing showing the vulkum holding the LEDs in place.
Attachment 106317 Attachment 106317

There was quite a gap between one place of the housing and the read led, so I cut a small piece of aluminum to help the vulkum span the gap. You can see it above the red LED in the pic below. The retro look lenses will cover that up.
Attachment 106316

Now to wait for the vulkum to fully cure for a couple of days, and then I’ll glue the retro lenses on the LEDs.


Aerowood 07-05-2010 08:33 PM

Is that all going to fit without cutting clearance holes on the interior skin?

Minno 07-05-2010 09:05 PM

Golly, I hope so!


Minno 07-06-2010 06:56 AM

Actually, probably not. I'll need to cut a larger hole in the inner cover for the tail lights, and a hole in the inner skin. That area will be inside future cabinets, so I'm not concerned about adding the hole. I could move the assembly I built since it really doesn't need to be mounted on the back of the tail light. We'll see how it all works out when I re-install them in the trailer.


Minno 07-07-2010 03:22 PM

More progress. The rest of our 12 VDC wire arrived on Tuesday (orange, pink, and purple), so yesterday evening we went out and ran the rest of the rough 12 volt wiring. Need to double and triple check it all and make sure we haven't missed anything, but the wire harness is all basically in place now. Both 12 VDC and 110 VAC. :clap:

Next wiring step is to add neutral/ground pigtails at each of the 12 volt fixture locations. These will connect each 12 volt fixture to one of the shell ribs to ensure a good return path to the batteries/converter.

Minno 07-10-2010 06:25 PM

Little Girl got a bath today - we scrubbed her down, going inside with each section to look for leaks. We only found 2! One is at the top of the refrigerator vent, and the other is along an upper seam along the street side about half way down the trailer. We are quite excited that that's all we have to deal with! Nothing we've sealed or repaired leaked, except the door which still needs some adjustment, anyway. We think the clear coat is still intact on the whole trailer too, which is very good news. I was NOT looking forward to stripping it! Now, we can reinstall the tail lights, and put the rear interior end cap back in place with some insulation under it so we can get it out of our way (it's REALLY in the way!). Making progress...


MrBeast 07-11-2010 07:40 AM


Originally Posted by Minno (Post 870123)
Little Girl got a bath today - we scrubbed her down, going inside with each section to look for leaks. We only found 2! One is at the top of the refrigerator vent, and the other is along an upper seam along the street side about half way down the trailer. We are quite excited that that's all we have to deal with! Nothing we've sealed or repaired leaked, except the door which still needs some adjustment, anyway. We think the clear coat is still intact on the whole trailer too, which is very good news. I was NOT looking forward to stripping it! Now, we can reinstall the tail lights, and put the rear interior end cap back in place with some insulation under it so we can get it out of our way (it's REALLY in the way!). Making progress...


Knowing your trailer is water tight is a good thing, that has a lot to do with why I had to give up full timing, mine started leaking right above my bed!

Nothing like a south Texas gut buster dumping at 3am leaking through onto your bed to make you feel all warm and fuzzy! :angry:

Minno 07-11-2010 08:50 PM

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Today, we worked on some of the exterior things we need to finish before we can insulate and re-install the interior skins.

While I worked in installing the tail lights, Kay worked on removing the water fill hatch as we want to put that on the other side of the trailer. Fairly simple removable – standard drill out the rivets, and then cut through all the vulkum that had sealed it in place for 38 years. Piece of cake…

In its place, we installed an outdoor outlet cover we bought last year. We either bought it from Out of Doors Mart or Vintage Trailer Supply – I don’t remember which. The outlet mounts up high inside the cover at an angle, and we’ll install that from the inside later.
Attachment 106653

Meanwhile, I was working on the tail lights, pulling Kay from her project when I needed two sets of hands. We installed both tail lights, now outfitted with LEDs, and a new center stop light.
Attachment 106654

A couple of close-ups. I should note that the retro lenses are glued in place with vulkum. Actually, so are the screws. I ground off some stainless screws and glued them into the screw holes. I think is looks better with the screws in place. Kay thought I was being a bit (she’s trying to think of an appropriate word as I type :rolleyes:) anal… :D
Attachment 106655 Attachment 106656

One inside pic of a tail light installed. If you look, you can see we were testing the LED on the inside that will power the fiber optic.
Attachment 106657

Finally, one pic showing them all working during our test.
Attachment 106658


nmbosa 07-11-2010 08:53 PM

Chris and Kay, nice work. I like the exterior outlet you put in place of the water fill.

mello mike 07-12-2010 03:23 AM

Great job, Chris and Kay. I see you went with the vintage look, too, for your LEDs. Last summer, I decided to keep my main brake light original so I can use the fiber optic system, but I've opted to go the LED route for this light, too. Inland Andy has instructions on making the fiber optic work with the LEDs. I'm going to look into this.

I also thought about gluing the shortend screws in the lens holes to make it look like an original installation but haven't done that yet. So many projects and so little time.... :o

Ultradog 07-12-2010 08:22 AM

Hi Minno.
I just did a quick scan of all your photos in this thread. I hadn't seen it before as I've not been too active here in the last few years. It looks like you are doing a great job on the old girl. Kudos to you both.
I'm not too far from you - Columbia Heights.

Minno 07-12-2010 04:42 PM


Originally Posted by mello mike (Post 870611)
I also thought about gluing the shortend screws in the lens holes to make it look like an original installation but haven't done that yet.

Vindicated!!! :lol:

MrBeast 07-13-2010 01:04 AM

It does look sharp and I will say definately worth it.

Minno 07-13-2010 04:17 PM

Thanks! Took all of 5 minutes to grind down 12 1/2" screws and glue them in place. I used one of the disposable syringes you can buy at Vintage Trailer Supply to keep the amount of vulkum down to a manageable level while doing the lenses and screws. Pretty much those are a one-time use – not worth trying to clean out and re-use in my opinion.

Hey Jerry – nice to find someone in Minnesota that actually knows where Lexington is! :) When we first moved here 27 odd years ago, we rented a house in Columbia Heights, about 2 blocks north of the Minneapolis city limit.


Minno 08-08-2010 12:12 PM

7 Attachment(s)
Been a few weeks since we’ve worked on Little Girl. We took 2 weeks and made a road trip out to Connecticut to see our Navy son and his family, and then stopped by Michigan to visit our families. 3500 miles total. And all we kept thinking about was how nice it’ll be to make trips like this with Little Girl instead of our current trailer… But I digress.

Friday evening, we got back to working on the rear headliner. We had insulated and made a start on installing it right before we left on vacation. We learned a fairly important lesson then – the headline is heavy and flexible. And we didn’t have anything on hand to help prop it into position. So, a stop at Menards to buy some 2x3’s took care of that problem. Now, armed with studs to prop the headline in place, and a new pneumatic rivet gun, we were able to fairly quickly get the darn thing installed properly. Of course, hardly any of the rivet holes lined up, so we drilled new ones.

Attachment 108329 Attachment 108330

After much debate, we decided to go with fiberglass for the insulation. It’s really easy to work with, cheap, and as we mentioned in an earlier post, we did not have any real water leaking issues in the upper shell. Fiberglass will not go under the floor, but we’ll deal with that when we get to that point.

Saturday morning, I worked on the 12 volt wiring some more. Pretty much complete now, with the exception of ground/neutral pigtails and some misc wiring like speaker wire, cable tv, radio antennae, etc. In the afternoon, we installed 3 of our 4 new external connectors – new 30 amp electric, city water, and cable tv/phone. Not that I’ll connect the marine phone connector – I bought that one purely for the cable tv connector.

Here’s a few outside pics of the new connectors.
Attachment 108331Attachment 108332Attachment 108333

And inside:
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