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-   -   Headliner Sagging (https://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/headliner-sagging-40416.html)

alscottfree 03-14-2008 10:06 AM

Headliner Sagging
 
The 1997 25' Safari That We Are Picking Up Sunday Has The Headliners Coming Down In Some Areas. We Are Assured There Were No Leaks, Just Extreme Heat & Cold - But We Have No Idea What Product Or Process To Use To Reglue Or Reattach This. Help????
Thanks, Al

maxandgeorgia 03-14-2008 10:48 AM

Droopy ceilings are not uncommon in the '90's trailers. If you use the search tool found on the menu line on the home page, using key words such as your thread title or "droopy ceiling," you'll find several discussions and proposed solutions for the problem. Some replace (BIG project), some reglue (glue often fails when reapplied), some tack up the ceiling using 5/8 inch screws and screw covers (the method we used), and others use various different approaches. Try the search tool and see if you can find a solution that would work for you. Best wishes! ~G

k44g 05-27-2008 09:06 PM

any headliner shrinkage?
 
So maxandgeorgia, did your headliner shrink to a degree that it would not extend to the plastic trim on either edge, leaving a gap? If so, how did you deal with that?

Seems like one solution would be to use a vinyl tape along the edge of the headliner such that the tape would in effect extend the headliner to reach under the trim. Do you know where I can buy replacement trim?

RedBlur 05-28-2008 04:00 AM

At first, I tried to re-glue in our 1995, but that soon failed again. So, I used screws and screw covers to fix the headliner. It is a pain to do, but after three years, it is still holding. I stretched as I applied the screws, so I had to deal with a very small area of shrinkage at a trim seam, to which I applied a white silicone bead. That also worked out ok.

alscottfree 05-28-2008 11:32 AM

sagging headliner
 
We Did A Reglue For Instant Fix - It Of Course Is Starting To Come Down, But In Only 1 Small Area That Leads, Of Course, To The Bigger Area Next.....so, We Will Probably Do The More Secure Route This Time - I Think The 113 Degree Days Last Week Started The Unglue - I Think, As Often, The Shortcut Was Not The Answer.(but Felt Really Good For Awhile.

bake315 05-28-2008 02:27 PM

Short of adding a bunch of screw holes to the ceiling, once the foam under the vinyl fails (and it is the foam failing - not the adhesive), the only real (read, proper) recourse is to remove the cabinets, along with the vinyl, then strip the ceiling until it's entirely free of glue and foam. I'm in the middle of this right now - and Georgia is right - it's a huge mess, and a huge pain. But in the end it's going to look like brand new, because it will be brand new. With any luck, I'll never have to fool with it again, and the (someday) subsequent owner won't have to, either.

94Tri 07-05-2008 10:43 AM

Sagging 94
 
I had to deal with the sagging ceiling issue in the 94 tri axle I bought last summer. The previous owner had put rivets and screws every place it sagged...it had gotten pretty ugly. My fix was to strip all the headliner out. I then took a wire wheel on a small hand grinder and stipped off as much glue and padding as possible. This was an extremely messy venture. I even went as far as stripping all the fuzzy material off the wall surfaces. I ordered several sheets of thin aluminum from Aircraft Spruce in Georgia (chek them out online). I then added a second layer of aluminum to all ceiling and wall surfaces. I carefully cut the wall material and used it for templates on the new aluminum. I riveted everything in place and now have a shiny aluminum interior that is very clean and matches the exterior. It was a great deal of work, but it gets really good comments. :wally:

Inland RV Center, In 07-05-2008 11:19 AM

Ceiling vinyl covering
 
According to Airstream, the cause of the material drooping, is the failure of the adhesive.

Back then the Feds demanded that a water base adhesive be used.

In time, it was determined that that was a big joke.

We all have seen automobiles with defective paint jobs from that same era. The clear coat finish on those vehicles, as mandated by the Feds, was also water based.

Water based adhesives, will fail in time.

The fix, unfortunately, is to remove the wall covering, and then remove the old adhesive.

New wall covering material should be used, since some of the bad adhesive is on it as well.

During the warranty period, Airstream also provided new wall coverings and instructed dealers to throw away the original coverings.

Common sense says that "all" the old adhesive must be remove from everything. The problem was and still is, that removing the adhesive properly and completely from the foam that's on the back side of the wall covering, is impossible.

Like so many other things, starting all over, from the very beginning, is the only long term real answer.

Such is the case with that vinyl wall covering.

Needless to say, the water based adhesive and paint idea, was scrapped years ago.

Andy
Andy

ritasmith52 07-05-2008 02:42 PM

Drooping Ceiling repaired with your suggestion.THANKS, it looks great!
 
I tried to re-glue in our 1995, but that soon failed again. So, I used screws and screw covers to fix the headliner. It is a pain to do, but after three years, it is still holding. I stretched as I applied the screws, so I had to deal with a very small area of shrinkage at a trim seam, to which I applied a white silicone bead. That also worked out ok.[/quote]

pcool3066 07-05-2008 08:46 PM

I have a 28', 1996 Excella and the ceilings are starting to come down. I like the screw idea and would like to know where to find the screws and caps. Thanks to everyone for the advise on this problem.

steven_georg 09-02-2008 01:35 PM

sagging headliner
 
Okay, first a really dumb question...Where is the search button on this forum?

Nevermind, I guess I just had to sign in first. Didn't realize that I had to have an account before I could search the forum.

As you can see, this is my first post here. We just picked up a '96 Excella 30', and the ceiling is sagging, so I'm looking into ways to get it back up. Don't really want to go with screws, so I wanted to sort through all the adhesives that people have tried and see if I can come up with something I'd like to give a try.

That's all for now. Thanks.

Inland RV Center, In 09-02-2008 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steven_georg (Post 611639)
Okay, first a really dumb question...Where is the search button on this forum?

Nevermind, I guess I just had to sign in first. Didn't realize that I had to have an account before I could search the forum.

As you can see, this is my first post here. We just picked up a '96 Excella 30', and the ceiling is sagging, so I'm looking into ways to get it back up. Don't really want to go with screws, so I wanted to sort through all the adhesives that people have tried and see if I can come up with something I'd like to give a try.

That's all for now. Thanks.

It doesn't matter what adhesive you may want to use, it will not work until you completely remove the old adhesive.

The old adhesive is the problem. Adding more adhesive to a bad adhesive, is a waste of time and money.

Two things you can do.

Install screws, or remove the foam backed vinyl, clean off "ALL" the old adhesive, and then install new foam baked vinyl.

Again, the old, "BAD" adhesive is on the foam as well. You will have trouble trying to get it off the foam, without destroying the foam.

Not what you want to hear, but you will waste your time and money, if you try any salvage routine, other than the screws.

The Airstream factory, also says, it can't be done.

Andy

starfire104 09-02-2008 08:45 PM

We also had this problem. We took it all down and had it reholstered $2500 later, it looks new and it should . I need to know about replacing the draperies, our are rotten and look bad. That is a lot of sewing, all those pleats...any suggestions where to go?

Inland RV Center, In 09-02-2008 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by starfire104 (Post 611814)
We also had this problem. We took it all down and had it reholstered $2500 later, it looks new and it should . I need to know about replacing the draperies, our are rotten and look bad. That is a lot of sewing, all those pleats...any suggestions where to go?

Replacement drapes are available through a dealer from Airstream.

Andy

fcreigh 09-09-2008 03:45 PM

I, like many of you, had the problem with the headliner coming loose on my 1996 30' Excella 1000. Fortunately the foam is still in good condition on the vinyl. After many attempts, I was advised by an Airstream tech that I might try using 3M Hi-Tack 76 spray ahhesive. That was not easy to find, but I was finally successful and sprayed in the areas I could get to without pulling any more of the headliner loose. I then quickly smmothed the headliner back in place and fortunately I was able to slip it back under the original strips that held it in place. Next thing I did was get several 8' strips of 1" wide white finish molding from Lowe's (it looks almost exactly like the original molding strips) and screwed them in place parallel to the original strips. This secures the newly glued area and actually looks like OEM except for the stainless screw heads and washers. I definitely recommend going this route in lieu of a complete re-do unless it's already too bad to attempt.

Emh142 11-14-2008 06:50 PM

I have the same problem. Did you find a solution???

tdeLorme 11-19-2008 12:00 PM

We had the sagging headliner/ceiling problem in an early 90's Foretravel Motorhome. I cut 1 1/2" strips of 3/8" thick oak and stained them to match the coach's woodwork. My wife then held the sagging material in place while I installed the "bows" to the ceiling. I used screw cap washers with the screws and it looked original when we finished. Now, that was a forty foot motorhome. If we have to do the AS we just bought, I really think striping it down to the skin is what I would do. The bows work and look fine, but you will always know there is a problem up there. Here is a great source for screw caps.

Screw Covers, Screw Caps & Snap-Caps® - Buy Now!

addone 11-24-2008 10:39 AM

I have a '94 Excella tri axle, with this same problem. I bought the replacement foam backed vinyl, but can not figure out how to get the plastic strips and front plastic cover down to replace....does anyone have any suggestions or should I just take it in to the dealer 3 hours away?

Chaplain Kent 05-19-2009 03:08 PM

I realize I am posting to a year old thread but have some tips and a warning to share. The ceiling in our 94 Excella was completely removed along with the adhesive, the PO had then tried to shine the aluminum to give it the new retro look. The only problem was they paid no attention to trim and the insulation around the edges was sticking out along with the pattern of rivets used in construction. It was ugly so I recovered it with new marine grade foam vinyl. I used 2 1/2 " wide plastic screen molding from Lowes between the seams. This has a ridge on the bottom side which the vinyl tucks into giving a neat edge. I was also able to work with the 54" material not worrying about getting it exact since I had wide molding. I went to an automotive upholstery shop and purchased spray adhesive called Headerbond. This product is good for temps up to 215 degrees. Purchase a spray applicator from Lowes to help apply the spray from the can. this is a plastic apparatus which fits over the top of the spray can and gives you a large trigger handle to operate the spray nozzle with. Mark a center point on the vinyl and the ceiling. Apply the adhesive to a four foot area, two feet on either side of the center line and then the same on the vinyl. Align the center marks you made and smooth out the vinyl. It adheres immediately but since you are working with just a two foot section in each direction it is workable. Make all of your cutouts and then apply the glue to the bottom part of the ceiling and vinyl. Here is the warning. the adhesive is very flammable. Turn off all electrical 12V and 120V. Why do I say this? I nicked an electric line and started the entire ceiling on fire, all of my new work up in flames in seconds. By time I got the extinguisher and put out the fire the ceiling was black, along with the top part of the walls. The floors and everything else was covered with extinguisher dust. I have since cleaned up, and redone the ceiling. It looks great, although the second time around I did do some patching in to save buying extra vinyl over what I already had to replace so there is a strip of 4" molding by the door which covers a blank spot underneath. For the next few years we will be sweeping up fire extinguisher dust but at least i put out the fire before any major damage was done.

ritasmith52 05-23-2009 11:36 AM

sagging Ceiling
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by alscottfree (Post 533716)
The 1997 25' Safari That We Are Picking Up Sunday Has The Headliners Coming Down In Some Areas. We Are Assured There Were No Leaks, Just Extreme Heat & Cold - But We Have No Idea What Product Or Process To Use To Reglue Or Reattach This. Help????
Thanks, Al

__________________________________________________ ___________
I had the same problem, mine was from the extreme heat from no shade on top.
I went to Lowe's, bought small self drilling screws as well as the round tops and I started to screw them into ceiling. I had to get the top stretched first until I could get screws in every 8 to 12 inches apart. I made the lines straight and from one side to other and from front to back. I waited until the late afternoon when roof was cooler. It took me about 2 hours, I made sure the lines were even and it looked like a cruise ship when I finished. DO NOT USE ANY GLUE, will not hold. Not bad for a country girl from ALABAMA.

Deb55 06-14-2009 03:28 PM

This seems to be a thread destined to live forever...I am about to start on my section of sagging headliner in the bedroom. I think the endcap leaked at some point in the past and caused the glues to fail. I've recaulked the outside but now we are out of the desert and, in super rainy Maine, the panel is sagging bad. My questions are: What to use to remove the old water based glue from the ceiling?
Where to find matching white vinyl-leathery looking Airstream headliner?

Any help would be appreciated!

Lucy749 07-01-2009 07:50 AM

Thank you everyone who posted through this thread! Topics are very pertinent! Our '94 Excella has a droopy ceiling and sad, although somewhat newer, drapes. Your help is invaluable.

Lucy749

Gene 07-01-2009 09:06 AM

I inherited a 1985 Oldsmobile in 1995 and it had a sagging headliner—cloth with foam backing. I tried to reglue it, but it failed fairly quickly. So we had to bite the bullet and get the whole thing redone. Though the Olds headliner was cloth, not vinyl, the principal is the same, and I think Andy has it right, it has to be completely redone.

The Olds is long gone—sold in 1999 after we put another 40,000 miles on it. It was the worst car we ever owned.

Gene

coolbikeman 08-28-2010 06:52 PM

I am looking at a 1995 Excella Classic 34' to purchase. There is the beginning of the ceiling vinyl starting to sag. I called the Airstream factory to get an estimate as to how much it would cost to redo the ceiling liner. Should get a call back monday Aug. 30, 2010 by the service adviser.

I am trying to get feedback as to whether the anticipated high cost of replacement is worth it or not? If Airstream does replace the liner, is there any guarantee that this same problem won't occur several years down the road? Has Airstream come up with a for sure fix for this problem, such as in their newest models? I wouldn't want to pay $100,000 for a new Airstream and have the ceiling start to come down in a few years.

I know this is a very old thread, but hope there are still people viewing that have experienced getting the entire ceiling replaced.

Thanks

Terry

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In (Post 586126)
According to Airstream, the cause of the material drooping, is the failure of the adhesive.

Back then the Feds demanded that a water base adhesive be used.

In time, it was determined that that was a big joke.

We all have seen automobiles with defective paint jobs from that same era. The clear coat finish on those vehicles, as mandated by the Feds, was also water based.

Water based adhesives, will fail in time.

The fix, unfortunately, is to remove the wall covering, and then remove the old adhesive.

New wall covering material should be used, since some of the bad adhesive is on it as well.

During the warranty period, Airstream also provided new wall coverings and instructed dealers to throw away the original coverings.

Common sense says that "all" the old adhesive must be remove from everything. The problem was and still is, that removing the adhesive properly and completely from the foam that's on the back side of the wall covering, is impossible.

Like so many other things, starting all over, from the very beginning, is the only long term real answer.

Such is the case with that vinyl wall covering.

Needless to say, the water based adhesive and paint idea, was scrapped years ago.

Andy
Andy


Inland RV Center, In 08-28-2010 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolbikeman (Post 888298)
I am looking at a 1995 Excella Classic 34' to purchase. There is the beginning of the ceiling vinyl starting to sag. I called the Airstream factory to get an estimate as to how much it would cost to redo the ceiling liner. Should get a call back monday Aug. 30, 2010 by the service adviser.

I am trying to get feedback as to whether the anticipated high cost of replacement is worth it or not? If Airstream does replace the liner, is there any guarantee that this same problem won't occur several years down the road? Has Airstream come up with a for sure fix for this problem, such as in their newest models? I wouldn't want to pay $100,000 for a new Airstream and have the ceiling start to come down in a few years.

I know this is a very old thread, but hope there are still people viewing that have experienced getting the entire ceiling replaced.

Thanks

Terry

The "proper fix" has not changed, nor has it's great expense.

Andy

Lucy749 08-29-2010 09:09 AM

Droopy ceiling
 
With our '94 Excella's delaminating ceiling, we turned to the sage advice of veteran AirForums members. The problem began with poor quality adhesive reportedly due to new Federal restrictions at the time; however, this problem is not just limited to AS 1994-95 trailers.

Our trailer's "bubble" sat from just above the streetside window up to and around the Fantastic Fan in the bedroom. We removed everything from the room which was not riveted down, and then spread drop cloths over the flooring. Limited workspace in which to move around in, neck kinks, and tired arms were my husband's nemeses as he first razored the vinyl off with the dry, powdery foam liner which. Dave invested a $40 paint breathing mask, 5 aerosol spray paint remover cans, and many quarts of acetone.

After cutting down the vinyl, he used a putty-like blade and scraped the remaining debris off. Dave scraped down to the aluminum ceiling. Next, he "washed" the ceiling with acetone to remove all particles. Finally, when he was finished completely, Dave and I decided we liked the whole ceiling bare.

Somewhere I have photos, if you'd like to see the stages, but I'm sure you have the idea that it is not a task for the faint of heart. Time consuming, yes. Rewarding, yes. Easy, no.

Earlier this summer, we sold our '95 30' Excella, and the gentleman remarked how much he liked the celing bare! That's my story.

All the best with your new-to-you AS; the Forums rock!!

Aviator 08-29-2010 02:44 PM

The ceiling in our 1997 was drooping badly. It had even pulled away from on of the trim pieces enough to leave a gap when you held it back in place. We had seen a couple of Airstreams which have had the ceiling screwed back up with caps on the screw heads. (Think upholstered look).

When we joined the Georgia WBCCI, we found out that Warren Fore, the club president does the work and does it very well.

I am sure if Coolbikeman and Warren were at the same rally, Warren would be happy to do the ceiling.

You should be able to contact him through the "Top of Georgia" website.

coolbikeman 08-29-2010 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In (Post 888328)
The "proper fix" has not changed, nor has it's great expense.

Andy

Thanks Andy for the quick answer. My other question I asked in my first message was whether replacing the headliner with the newest adhesive and liner materials would be a "permanent fix"? I wouldn't want to pay to have it replaced and then have to do it again several years down the road. Any advice on this? I may need to call your service center to ask more questions. I browsed quite a bit of you website the other day and there is a lot of information there about Airstreams.

Thanks

Terry

coolbikeman 08-29-2010 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aviator (Post 888579)
The ceiling in our 1997 was drooping badly. It had even pulled away from on of the trim pieces enough to leave a gap when you held it back in place. We had seen a couple of Airstreams which have had the ceiling screwed back up with caps on the screw heads. (Think upholstered look).

When we joined the Georgia WBCCI, we found out that Warren Fore, the club president does the work and does it very well.

I am sure if Coolbikeman and Warren were at the same rally, Warren would be happy to do the ceiling.

You should be able to contact him through the "Top of Georgia" website.


Thanks for the tip, AVIATOR. Maybe if I buy this one I am looking at, I can look him up.

Terry

coolbikeman 08-30-2010 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by starfire104 (Post 611814)
We also had this problem. We took it all down and had it reholstered $2500 later, it looks new and it should . I need to know about replacing the draperies, our are rotten and look bad. That is a lot of sewing, all those pleats...any suggestions where to go?

Hello Starfire,

I tried to send you an email thinking that would be the quickest way to contact you. Don't see where there have been any messages sent to you in my message sent section. So, I will try posting on the forum.

I was wondering where you had your Airstream ceiling replaced? That is much cheaper than having it done at the Airstream factory. Also, do you know if the material used will not have this same problem say in another 15 years or less? I just don't want to have to spend the money more than once. I am looking at a 1995 Excella 34' that is starting to show the sagging ceiling in one spot.

Thanks,

Terry

Inland RV Center, In 08-31-2010 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolbikeman (Post 888827)
Hello Starfire,

I tried to send you an email thinking that would be the quickest way to contact you. Don't see where there have been any messages sent to you in my message sent section. So, I will try posting on the forum.

I was wondering where you had your Airstream ceiling replaced? That is much cheaper than having it done at the Airstream factory. Also, do you know if the material used will not have this same problem say in another 15 years or less? I just don't want to have to spend the money more than once. I am looking at a 1995 Excella 34' that is starting to show the sagging ceiling in one spot.

Thanks,

Terry

Terry.

The foam backed material was fine.

The entire problem rested with the Feds making Airstream use a "water based adhesive". It's the adhesive that failed.

Unfortunately, in order to correct the problem, all traces of the old adhesive must be removed. Then and only then, can you use a good adhesive with the same foam backed wall covering.

Andy

godaddy64 03-10-2011 03:41 PM

This thread won't go away because the problem keeps cropping up to new owners. Count me in the "take-it-all-off-with-a-stripper" crowd. I can't wait to see that bare aluminum skin... pun intended.:brows:

Which brings me to the old chemistry question: What's the best remover of old adhesive? Acetone? One search of mine turned up a reference to a citrus-based adhesive remover called "Rapid Remover." Has anyone here tried it or a comparable product?

Thanks!

Bluto 03-10-2011 04:35 PM

Just from what I have read on the subject, it seems as though the aluminum inside the trailers which was originally covered at the factory, is not as good quality as the stuff they leave bare on some trailers. In other words, don't expect the same quality of finish after you clean it up. I'm fairly certain less care was taken with the interior aluminum that was scheduled to be covered as compared to the trailers that have the bare aluminum interior walls and ceilings to begin with.

Luckyducks 03-10-2011 06:05 PM

I just finished doing the section of my (previously droopy) ceiling. It was over the main living area and I had to remove curtain valances, curtains, curtain rods, fan trim, tv antenna crank, skylight trim, and the smoke detector. Per some advice from Andy (Inland RV) in an older post, I used lacquer thinner and followed up with a degreaser. The lacquer thinner worked great. Use lots of rags and ventilate the trailer while you work. I then had a local auto upholsterer glue up the new ceiling liner (which I picked up last year at the factory). After a few hours of reinstalling all of the trim pieces, everything looks great now.

Regarding the aluminum lining, a number of my rivets had painted heads and holes were drilled in the aluminum (I guess for rivets) with just a small piece of masking tape over them. I guess you could put rivets in the holes and re-rivet the painted rivets.

bake315 03-10-2011 06:21 PM

OK, this is my first post in a couple of years, and thought this was a good place to start.

About 3 years ago my headliner failed completely. I bit the bullet and decided to clean the remaining foam and glue off. I found that I could get quite a lot of the remaining foam off of the ceiling by using a shop vac and crevice tool, and sort of "scrubbing" the ceiling with it. This cut down a lot on the mess.

The next thing I did was to open all the windows for good ventilation. To remove the remaining glue I used (brace yourself) brake cleaner. I found that I could spray/soak an area of the ceiling to weaken the hold of the glue. Then, before it dried was able to wipe quite a lot of it off using an old rag (also saturated with brake cleaner). For the toughest spots, I would soak the rag, then hold it against the spot, which allowed it to penetrate well without evaporating. The tough spots came off easily with this method. Final wipedown was again with a clean rag moistened with the brake cleaner.

I decided to leave the ceiling area from the entry door back to the bathroom area as bare metal. However I did reapply new vinyl to the section forward of that. I used Reflectix in lieu of foam because I figured it might act as a better insulator than a thin layer of foam. I first sprayed 3M High Strength 90 adhesive on the ceiling, and on the section of Reflectix. I let each set for about 5-7 minutes, then joined them. I followed this with a section of new vinyl - spraying both it and Reflectix waiting the 5-7 again, then joined the two. The bond between the two are quite strong, and I expect that this combination will last many many years - it's already lasted through 2 summers, one which was one of the hottest on record for Texas. Still looks great. Only thing to remember is that when applying the vinyl to the Reflectix do so with the flats of your hands - if you press with your fingers too much, you start to see the texture of the Reflectix underneath.

This was the solution for me. It may not be for everyone, and some may opine that it's a bad idea, won't work, etc., All I'm saying is it was a suitable solution, and in reference to my post way back in this thread, preferable to adding a bunch of additional holes in my ceiling. :)

Peace, out!

godaddy64 03-11-2011 04:39 PM

I may have to give brake cleaner a try... but better get a face mask with a solvent filter first. That stuff is woozier than goof-off and will erase your brain if you let it.

I've scraped much of the foam off the ceiling from my A/C to the Gaucho area, and the funky smell it releases is staggering. But to Airstream's credit, I must say I'm pleasantly surprised by the good looking aluminum skin underneath. Some solvents, spit 'n polish will make those things nice... and vastly less dated looking than that 90s vinyl.

Now how to get rid of that pastel watercolor floral pattern in the kitchen and bathroom walls?

dznf0g 03-11-2011 07:03 PM

I use brake cleaner for a lot of jobs. Think about it. It is designed to:
Degrease, clean and dry.
Not be harmful to:
natural rubber, paint, synthetic rubbers, all petroleum sensitive brake parts.

Get the original formula, not the "green" non-chlorinated stuff. The latter is not as good.

godaddy64 03-18-2011 06:02 PM

I tried a variety of products that were laying around in my garage and this was my experience so far:

a) Goof-Off graffiti remover works better than regular Goof-Off, but not really that great.

b) One brand of brake cleaner (CRG Brand, in red printed cans) worked quite well, but another brand (Johnson, in a green can) turned out a complete dud.

c) Turpentine is mostly useless.

d) Automotive Gasket Remover has proven to be most efficient so far but it's GNARLY and creates a dark, brown sludge out of the foam/adhesive.

e) This is a horrendously filthy and laborious task, and I'm down to doing small areas at a time. Even though I've got the fancy solvent respirator, I'm not staying in there too long. I will try the Jasco product and some Lacquer Thinner next, and so by the time I'm done with this job, I'll know exactly how to do it.:D

bake315 03-21-2011 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by godaddy64 (Post 962915)
Now how to get rid of that pastel watercolor floral pattern in the kitchen and bathroom walls?

I know, it's mighty ugly. In the kitchen, the wallpaper was on it's own sheet of aluminum. I ended up removing it, once I learned that the main inner aluminum skin was behind it. It looks as good as the bare ceiling, with the exception of one spot where some moisture at some point apparently got between it and the wallpaper, leaving a large area of oxidation.

In the bathroom it's the same story on the wall over the lavatory, but everywhere else it's obviously on the wood. I'm betting that the adhesive is strong enough to damage the wood if I were to attempt removal, so I'm considering paint there, but likely will "skin" those areas with aluminum or thin sheet acrylic.

On the brake cleaner choice, I've had good luck with the O'Reilly brand. I don't have a can in front of me, but I believe the main ingredient in it is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or M.E.K. I actually used that back when I de-striped my Limited. It was the best option at the time because it didn't dry before fully penetrating the adhesive, like lacquer thinner does.

Gene 03-21-2011 12:49 PM

Reading what you guys are going through, I am very glad we have the aluminum interior.

Gene

yve79 03-21-2011 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by starfire104
We also had this problem. We took it all down and had it reholstered $2500 later, it looks new and it should . I need to know about replacing the draperies, our are rotten and look bad. That is a lot of sewing, all those pleats...any suggestions where to go?

I bought the $11 rolling shades from home depot. Then we pulled off the plastic sheet and cut to size my fabric choice and glued to the roller. It looks a million times better than those heavy pleated drapes and we use the windows for a breezeway every day compared to never when we had to fiddle w drapes and blinds as before. Havent used the AC all season yet in the sweltering Texas sun!

Tinkler2002 07-09-2011 10:11 PM

I was wondering about just cutting out old vinyl and removing old adhesive. Could I just leave ceiling bare metal would the finish look ok if I did this I could experiment in bedroom due to being smaller area. Any suggestions on this thanks in advance!

bake315 07-10-2011 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinkler2002
I was wondering about just cutting out old vinyl and removing old adhesive. Could I just leave ceiling bare metal would the finish look ok if I did this I could experiment in bedroom due to being smaller area. Any suggestions on this thanks in advance!

Hi Tinkler,

I still have the areas of galley and bath with the vinyl and adhesive removed. It actually looks okay, but there may be differences in what people find when they remove their own vinyl and adhesive. I don't think Airstream expected anyone would be doing that, and so might use sections of skin that may have scratches or holes, since they knew they were covering it up anyway. In my case, I have the odd scratch here and there, as well as a few holes where they missed a rib when drilling for rivets. I took care of those by just filling them with a rivet.

Things like this are why I cringe a little when folks talk of re-fastening their headliners with screws... Sort of limits your options should one ever wish to go with the bare ceiling, IMO. ;-)

Tinkler2002 07-11-2011 04:31 AM

Yea also screws scare me with electrical wiring running in ceiling!

johndes 09-08-2011 07:36 AM

Me too
 
I also have a ceiling that is beginning to sag. I have been to two local auto upholsters and their message is the same as I have been reading. You got to tear it out and redo it. The 1991 Land Yacht 33 Motor home has a fiber board ceiling, that the foam vinyl is attached to. Has anyone dealt with this type of backing? Can I use the brake cleaner on this? Can I buy the same foam backed vinyl from the Airstream factory?
Thanks in advance

richinny 09-08-2011 12:09 PM

there are lots of posts about this. pick one or a few from this list:
Google Custom Search

Cable 12-10-2012 06:47 PM

Fasteners
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In (Post 611648)
It doesn't matter what adhesive you may want to use, it will not work until you completely remove the old adhesive.

The old adhesive is the problem. Adding more adhesive to a bad adhesive, is a waste of time and money.

Two things you can do.

Install screws, or remove the foam backed vinyl, clean off "ALL" the old adhesive, and then install new foam baked vinyl.

Again, the old, "BAD" adhesive is on the foam as well. You will have trouble trying to get it off the foam, without destroying the foam.

Not what you want to hear, but you will waste your time and money, if you try any salvage routine, other than the screws.

The Airstream factory, also says, it can't be done.

Andy

Jackson Center quoted me $7,700.00 and seven days in the shop to replace the headliner in my 27 foot 2002 Safari. I am not sure that is a good investment.

What length of screw is recommended? Are there decorative washers to use with screws?

Inland RV Center, In 12-10-2012 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cable (Post 1236754)
Jackson Center quoted me $7,700.00 and seven days in the shop to replace the headliner in my 27 foot 2002 Safari. I am not sure that is a good investment.

What length of screw is recommended? Are there decorative washers to use with screws?

OUCH!!!!!

I did not know they had "gold plated" headliner material.:D

There are all kids of decorative washers available.

The most common is chrome plated.

3/8 to 1/2 inch long screws are more than long enough.

Andy

johndes 12-11-2012 07:08 AM

Sagging Celing
 
What we did. Removing the old adhesive is the real problem, almost impossible. The first section came down and we removed the old adhesive by scraping with a razor blade. Took forever. Then glued a hard board ceiling panel, purchased from an RV supply store (Sands RV Madison, OH) to the wood ceiling. It looked so good we took the next section down and did the same thing, except we DID NOT remove the old adhesive. Using construction adhesive (Home Depot) we glued right over the old stuff, looks great and is very permanent. We have a 1991 Airstream Land Yacht these panels were installed in the bedroom.

Andrew T 12-11-2012 07:48 AM

When we do one instead trying to get all the old glue off. We recover the ceiling in underbelly aluminum which is thin cheap and light and then glue the new vinyl to it.

It definitely must be heat related as we see very little of the problem on Canadian units.

I would guess most of it is caused when the unit is closed up tight in storage and the internal temps go very high. A solar panel and a fantastic fan set to come on when the temperature goes over 90 might be a good investment.

Andrew T

dznf0g 12-11-2012 08:12 AM

To Andrew's point. That is the main reason I use MaxxAir vent covers. I leave my FF lids open 24/7/365 to allow ventilation while in storage. Keeps temps under control and doesn't allow mold and mildew to get a start.

Lucy749 12-12-2012 06:58 AM

Saggy ceiling liner
 
Our first AS, a 1994 Excella front kitchen, bedroom ceiling began delaminating about six months into owning her. We debated. We read. We prayed it would only be the bedroom ceiling!!

Then, my husband, armed with eye protection, breathing apparatus because of the fine particulate crumble the yellow foam backing had become, and painter's blade slowly began the week long joy of scraping, vacuuming, and removing the headliner. Secondly, he used an aerosol paint stripper and plastic paint spatulas to remove the goop, and finally acetone to remove the last layer of debris. Ultimately, my husband was exhausted, but the headliner never looked so good!!

Best of luck with whichever method you choose.

Lucy749

Melody Ranch 12-12-2012 08:02 AM

Tell me how the stripper and plastic scrapper worked out.

Gene 12-12-2012 01:17 PM

You don't have to use chrome plated washers or screws. Stainless steel is readily available and probably cheaper.

Gene

Skater 12-12-2012 01:21 PM

Another member sent me a PM and said he used Goo Gone to get rid of the glue, with good results. We plan to try it on one of our panels this winter. I can rub the residue off pretty easily so I think it'll work...

chromis 12-12-2012 02:27 PM

Isn't Stainless + Aluminium + Moisture bad ?

Gene 12-12-2012 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chromis (Post 1237457)
Isn't Stainless + Aluminium + Moisture bad ?

Good point and I'm not sure. Many different metals react electrically and cause corrosion, but how much and whether it matters are a question for metalurgists. Maybe chrome is also a problem. Various combinations of metals react fast and matter or so slowly to not matter.

A thin nonmetalic washer between the 2 metals would solve the problem. Paper washers may be available or could be cut out of paper. A black rubber washer between shiny metals could provide an attractive contrast under the principle of if you can't hide it, show it off.

I put a stainless steel electrical receptacle cover plate against the aluminum interior 5 years ago replacing the plastic one. So far, no corrosion. It is in the kitchen where there's a lot of water vapor.

Gene

Lucy749 12-13-2012 06:35 PM

Droopy headliner
 
To Melody Ranch et. al....the plastic scrappers (many) worked quite well in tandem with the remover plus they did not leave drag marks on the ceiling. One swipe, lift, remove and throw away. Tedious, but worked well.

Cable 10-18-2013 05:32 PM

Fasteners
 
My 2003 Safari started sagging in 2011.

We decided to repair it ourselves.

Plastic buttons were installed on 12 inch intervals to hold up the head-liner. The 5/8 inch drill point screw was used to make sure a hole wasn’t drilled through the roof and to speed up the job. The buttons were snapped onto the washer using minimal force but some buttons required driving into place with a rubber mallet. The pattern used was designed to look like a quilt pattern, continuous from one end of the trailer to the other.

The first step was to precisely locate the trailer’s center line. A string was installed and kept taut by use of a spring on one end. A laser level mounted on an old camera tripod was used to show the center line and the laser center line was marked on the ceiling at twelve inch intervals using sticky labels. Round sticky labels were used because their one-quarter inch diameter enabled leaving them in place on the ceiling, thereby reducing the over all effort of the project.

Next, using the laser again, a forty-five degree diagonal line was marked at each of the 12 inch intervals. It was important to use the same color label throughout in order to facilitate pattern evaluation before drilling holes. I ran into a problem when working over the storage compartment under the bed. The wood strength of the storage compartment was not enough to prevent it from flexing as I moved about, thus causing movement of the laser mark.

Total time required was 12 hours.

https://www.airforums.com/attachments...a9664eda76.jpg

https://www.airforums.com/attachments...b3a6b05afe.jpg


https://www.airforums.com/attachments...1a43fcbfc7.jpg

Materials List for Head-liner Repair

Item Quantity Cost
Cap, color almond, plastic Package of 100 $5.00 2 each $10.00
Part number: PD88 103
Washer, countersunk, plastic Package of 100 $5.00 2 each $10.00
Part number: PD88 W

Source: Woodwokers Hardware
P.O. Box 180
Sauk Rapids, MD 56390
(800) 383-0130

Screw, Phillips, 8-18, flat head, Package of 100 $8.91 2 each $17.82
drill point, stainless steel
Part number: 94195A137

Source: McMaster-Carr
200 New Canton Way
Robbinsville, NJ 08691-2343
(609) 689-3000

Labels, Avery, 1/4 inch diameter, Package of 700 $699 1 each $6.99
sticky
Source: Staples Office Supply
Part number: 5795

Total cost of material $37.82

johndes 10-19-2013 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alscottfree (Post 533716)
The 1997 25' Safari That We Are Picking Up Sunday Has The Headliners Coming Down In Some Areas. We Are Assured There Were No Leaks, Just Extreme Heat & Cold - But We Have No Idea What Product Or Process To Use To Reglue Or Reattach This. Help????
Thanks, Al

All I tell is what we did. We removed the ceiling material (ours was foam backed vinyl) removed most of the glue residue from the plywood. Then remover the cabinets and glued hardboard ceiling material (you can get from most RV supply stores) onto the plywood. Looks great will last forever and was the best way out for us. You CANNOT re-glue foam backed ceiling material, we tried. I don't care what this guy says his roof leaks.

Ntex 10-19-2013 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johndes (Post 1369185)
All I tell is what we did. We removed the ceiling material (ours was foam backed vinyl) removed most of the glue residue from the plywood. Then remover the cabinets and glued hardboard ceiling material (you can get from most RV supply stores) onto the plywood. Looks great will last forever and was the best way out for us. You CANNOT re-glue foam backed ceiling material, we tried. I don't care what this guy says his roof leaks.

I would love to see a picture of your ceiling!

Gene 10-19-2013 02:37 PM

Cable—nice job.

Gene

4wheeler 05-07-2018 03:09 PM

1995 Excella Ceiling drooping
 
We have noticed that several Airstreamers on this forum have suggested using 5/8" screws to reattach the headliner. My husband is concerned that the screw will puncture the outer skin of the roof of our rig. That can't be true, since others have done this. Can you tell us if we have the clearance to use such screws to fix our problem????

rugjenkins 05-07-2018 03:12 PM

The exterior to interior cavity space is 1 1/2 inches. 5/8 screws will be fine.

dznf0g 05-07-2018 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rugjenkins (Post 2098508)
The exterior to interior cavity space is 1 1/2 inches. 5/8 screws will be fine.

But why??? 1/4" is more than enough.

rugjenkins 05-08-2018 07:34 PM

1/4 is great too. 4wheeler mentioned using 5/8.

MontyV 05-18-2018 01:45 PM

we are in the same boat. 3m spray glue did a temporary job. but we are removing and replacing with a grass reed wallpaper.

BurnsTrayler 12-14-2018 10:56 AM

Has anyone use this product:

Polymat 797 Hi-Temp Spray Glue Adhesive:
Industrial Grade High Temperature Glue, Heat and Water Resistant Spray.

Is this better than NAPA Heavy Duty Headliner & carpet Adhesive?

Can someone answer where to get the wide plastic strip or the screws they used to make this job easier then it's going to be.

It looks like the journey is going to be a long road for camping and repairing and we have miles to go before we sleep. This is what I signed up for.

pmclemore 12-14-2018 07:01 PM

Finding an adhesive that will stick to another adhesive is the problem. If you find that solution, please post here.

Pat

TouringDan 03-09-2019 09:10 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I have owned a 95 34’ for 5 years now and it has been in storage all this time. The ceiling had started falling when I bought it and now of course it is falling all over so I have decided to remove the vinyl ceiling and the foam. This Airstream has been on the back burner but I decided to do some work on it as the storage place closed up and I have moved it to our home.

No problem removing the vinyl, but removing the foam has not been so easy. I started by using a plastic 4” putty knife. This was slow and difficult. I figured there had to be an easier way and I found it. I riveted the plastic scraper to the blade on my oscillating saw. It works great like a hot knife through butter. The foam comes off in sheets. After I remove all the foam, I will either clean and paint the aluminum or rivet new aluminum sheeting to the old aluminum. Here are some photos.

I have a project thread in the 94-96 Excella category.

DanAttachment 335262Attachment 335263Attachment 335264

Gene 03-18-2019 04:42 PM

This may be the worst idea I've ever had—burn it off. Foam fumes may be poisonous and the fire could spread. But life is an adventure, although I would check with those who know before I created a disaster.

BurnsTrayler 03-19-2019 11:16 AM

Do a search on curtains. I remember seeing a post on a couple of companies you can go to.

pamu 06-02-2019 07:01 AM

I took mine down and used them as a pattern to make new ones.... and yes, I did the pleats. It wasn't a small job, but it wasn't terrible. I have sewing experience but am not a seamstress. I don't have any fancy equipment except for a sewing machine purchased from Sears in 1976. If I had not been able to do it myself, I would have tried to source it out. I had maybe $300 in fabric, lining, interface, and curtain glides..... I am guessing that new ones ordered from AS would be many times that.

Bowbender57 09-24-2019 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In (Post 611844)
Replacement drapes are available through a dealer from Airstream.

Andy

OK-where did you find an upholsterer or someone to work on your AS ceiling?
Bowbender57


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