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-   -   Need help mounting my new ALUMINUM LP tanks (https://www.airforums.com/forums/f287/need-help-mounting-my-new-aluminum-lp-tanks-29771.html)

sequoiacoast 02-01-2007 10:39 AM

Need help mounting my new ALUMINUM LP tanks
 
3 Attachment(s)
Hi all, I received 2 new Aluminum tanks for Christmas and now must figure out the mounting. My '68 tradewind had the base and a rod, but no top bracket.

Recently I purchased a new top bracket which came with an all-thread rod. I was hoping to put the top bracket on my existing rod, but I will have to increase the diameter of the hole on the new bracket to do so. No biggie (I think), but I need advise first!!

In the following pictures can anyone tell me which is the correct way to install?

1. If the bracket is on top, the rolled top of the tanks is too thick to fit into the top bracket (as shown). Can it go in the hole as shown in Pic #2? If it can, I guess I'll need an all-thread....
2. Regulator goes under top bracket?
3. The rod I have moves from side to side about 3/4"- Is it supposed to? If I have to remove it, how does it come out and how do you mount a new one? (Mine seems to be attatched by a welded pin that does through the rod at the bottom- allowing the 'play')

[I have the 30lb tanks]

sequoiacoast 02-01-2007 10:59 AM

Uh how about answering my own question:
https://www.airforums.com/forum...nks#post204964

Sorry!

BIGED52 02-01-2007 11:00 AM

LP Tank clamp
 
Tanya, The tank clamp rod on my '67 flexes back and forth too! It however is welded at the base plate. The upper clamp for mine has notched area on the clamp (like your new part) and the holddown wingnut and washer would fit over the top of the clamp with a second nut and smaller washer on the threaded portion of the rod to lock the clamp on at the right height. The clamp has the regulator hanging down and mounted between the tanks for ease of viewing from the front of the tongue. The clamp notches can be on the lower opening or down on the rolled top of the bottle. I use the lower openings as it clamps more securely on the bottle there. Hope this helps, Ed

sequoiacoast 02-01-2007 11:12 AM

So, if I need to remove the rod, in favor of averting a disaster... how do you do it? Mounting the all-thread is obvious, suddenly, but to break the weld....??

markdoane 02-01-2007 11:26 AM

I wouldn't remove the rod. Take it to a hardware store or machinist and have them run the thread down a few more inches and cut the top off.

I will look a lot nicer that way. And may be cheaper.

BIGED52 02-01-2007 11:27 AM

replacing tank rod
 
You would be best done keeping what you have unless it is cracked or damaged. The hole in your new clamp can be drilled to the larger rod size for the original rod. The postings you linked above do not apply to your new clamp as it is stainless steel not cast aluminum. If however you would like to install the new threaded rod you must cut the old one off with a hack saw or sawzall and drill out the old rod in the base plate with a drill the size if your new threaded rod. make sure to keep in mind you will want to allow the drill size to tap new threads into the base so you can screw in the new rod. Place a nut, washer, and lock washer on the threaded rod so that you can tighten it down and have it locked to the base. (This will make it easier to replace in the future!) Or if you prefer you can have the bottom end of the threaded rod placed in the hole (drilled out to the exact size of the threaded rod) to fit the rod as is and have it welded into the base plate. Ed

wahoonc 02-01-2007 11:29 AM

Or you can find the cast aluminum clamp like was used on the 70's vintage trailers...

Aaron:cool:

BIGED52 02-01-2007 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wahoonc
Or you can find the cast aluminum clamp like was used on the 70's vintage trailers...

Aaron:cool:

Aaron, Aren't those the ones prone to breaking? Such as noted in the above posted link "disaster averted"? I'm not sure but it sounds like that type of clamp> Ed

sequoiacoast 02-01-2007 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane
I wouldn't remove the rod. Take it to a hardware store or machinist and have them run the thread down a few more inches and cut the top off.

I will look a lot nicer that way. And may be cheaper.

I agree the original rod is a lot better looking, but in order to have the thread extended I'd have to remove it, and it is welded, so I'd have to re-weld it (which I don't do). The new set up (with ugly all-thread is less than 10$) so in price, it's more attractive.

The link above paid tribute to the weld breaking on the older rods- as well as the aluminum "T" bracket. That's why I thought I should change over.

>>> But I CAN use the hole, rather than the top, as a amounting spot, like ED says..... agreed?

jimmickle 02-01-2007 12:05 PM

If you go to a good hardware store, you can get a thread cutting die and handle for same and cut the threads further on your current rod. Or...borrow the same tool from a friend.

BIGED52 02-01-2007 12:08 PM

Rod threading
 
You do not have to remove the rod to extend the threads! Just get a thread/tap set and handle and some cutting oil and extend the threads as low on the rod as you need them. The rod is welded at the bottom and needs no other clamping or vise to extend the thread more onto the rod. If you are worried that it moves while threading hold it with a pair of vise grip pliers with one hand and slowly thread the rod by turning the handle with the other. You will likely have to lube existing threads first and be very careful to install thread nut on the existing threads correctly before using the handle. Should be a no brainer! Good luck and let us know what you decide to do and the outcome. Ed

wahoonc 02-01-2007 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGED52
Aaron, Aren't those the ones prone to breaking? Such as noted in the above posted link "disaster averted"? I'm not sure but it sounds like that type of clamp> Ed

It is not clear to me if the clamps broke or if the rod broke or? It is like blaming an blowout on a defective tire, without knowing if the tire was over or under inflated, possibly damaged prior to the blow out etc. I never seen a broken aluminum hold down. I don't doubt they could break, but so will a half shaft on a truck and they are made out of heavy steel.

Aaron:cool:

Inland RV Center, In 02-01-2007 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
Hi all, I received 2 new Aluminum tanks for Christmas and now must figure out the mounting. My '68 tradewind had the base and a rod, but no top bracket.

Recently I purchased a new top bracket which came with an all-thread rod. I was hoping to put the top bracket on my existing rod, but I will have to increase the diameter of the hole on the new bracket to do so. No biggie (I think), but I need advise first!!

In the following pictures can anyone tell me which is the correct way to install?

1. If the bracket is on top, the rolled top of the tanks is too thick to fit into the top bracket (as shown). Can it go in the hole as shown in Pic #2? If it can, I guess I'll need an all-thread....
2. Regulator goes under top bracket?
3. The rod I have moves from side to side about 3/4"- Is it supposed to? If I have to remove it, how does it come out and how do you mount a new one? (Mine seems to be attatched by a welded pin that does through the rod at the bottom- allowing the 'play')

[I have the 30lb tanks]

Airstreams LPG bottle hold down, is a cast metal part, that has been used for many years. It is stronger than the one in your photo.

The better placement of the hold own bracket is in the round hole in the tank bracket.

No threads there?? Rod too long??

Simple fix. No need to add additional threads.

Remove the pin that holds the rod into the bottom bracket. Change the rods position as you wish.

Drill an appropiate size hole in the rod for the new pin location.

Position the rod accordingly, insert the pin, and your done.

Thye only trick is make sure the hole you drill is not oversize. If the pin falls out, the bottle will come loose.

Andy

Excella3287 02-01-2007 12:33 PM

Coastal Friend
 
Just my opinion I agree with the method of doing more threads on what you have its already welded, so its strong. Second is the cost factor, got friends equals zero cost and maybe 30 minutes of labor.

Inland RV Center, In 02-01-2007 12:53 PM

LPG rods
 
Most Airstream LPG hold down rods from the mid 60's are pinned, not welded.

Andy

Excella3287 02-01-2007 01:36 PM

Hey Coastal Friend
 
Is yours welded or pinned?, perhaps the PO welded it. If I were closer I'd do it for Free well maybe a beer. Keep us posted as to what you do.

sequoiacoast 02-01-2007 02:29 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Well, I think it is pinned, but the pin is not visible sticking in or out of the rod or "sleeve" it's in. If I look down the "sleeve" I can see a pin-like thing and the rod moves side to side, so I believe it's pinned.. but isn't the pin welded front to back inside the "sleeve"? I suppose I could just drill it out? And what type of pin is used?

Inland RV Center, In 02-01-2007 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
Well, I think it is pinned, but the pin is not visible sticking in or out of the rod or "sleeve" it's in. If I look down the "sleeve" I can see a pin-like thing and the rod moves side to side, so I believe it's pinned.. but isn't the pin welded front to back inside the "sleeve"? I suppose I could just drill it out? And what type of pin is used?


They are called "split pins."

Andy

markdoane 02-01-2007 05:50 PM

I'm glad I read the "..Disaster Averted" thread. Thanks.

Why on earth would anyone drill a hole in the Hold Down rod and use a pin after reading that!

Mine is welded, thank goodness.

azflycaster 02-01-2007 06:29 PM

When I went to new tanks on my TW, I removed the pin out of the rod and found another hole in the rod futher down. Put a new pin in the new location and it just the right spot. Getting the pin out took a bit of work.


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