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Rage51 05-03-2021 07:28 PM

No battery power
 
Stopped at a remote campground with 2017 International and there was no power from the battery. On my AS, the relay is under the sofa adjacent to the battery compartment. When I hooked up shore power, it only powered the 110v wall outlets and the microwave clock. I tried to make sure all the relay connections were tight, but nothing is working. Any advice, we’re stuck looking for a hotel or something.
The battery is fine, the jack works fine.

Wazbro 05-03-2021 08:20 PM

You might be able to connect both wires to the same post on the relay to bypass the relay temporarily.

Rage51 05-03-2021 10:29 PM

There are two posts, which one should i connect to?

oldenavy 05-04-2021 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rage51 (Post 2490300)
There are two posts, which one should i connect to?

Doesn't matter. Put both big wires on the same post and you've bypassed the relay.
Do you hear any clicking when you try the store/use switch?

GCinSC2 05-04-2021 04:27 AM

Do you have a meter or 12VDC test light? Good basic diagnostic tools for electrical troubleshooting.'

Test light, hook clamp to a good ground. Touch probe to one side of relay big cable coming from battery. It should light up. Now try opposite terminal that supplies power to trailer. It will light up with relay working. You can do same to the incoming power that turns relay on and off. One side I bet is just grounded, other side gets power from switch to energize relay.

Pic of relay might help diagnosis.

Gary

Rage51 05-04-2021 07:49 AM

The store/use switch doesn’t make any sound.

Rage51 05-04-2021 08:13 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2 (Post 2490322)
Do you have a meter or 12VDC test light? Good basic diagnostic tools for electrical troubleshooting.'

Test light, hook clamp to a good ground. Touch probe to one side of relay big cable coming from battery. It should light up. Now try opposite terminal that supplies power to trailer. It will light up with relay working. You can do same to the incoming power that turns relay on and off. One side I bet is just grounded, other side gets power from switch to energize relay.

Pic of relay might help diagnosis.

Gary

.

I have a multimeter and put the positive on one side of the relay, the other to ground, and got nothing on either side. I put the positive on the battery line to a big fuse and got a reading, but nothing on the other side. I am having difficulty posting photo from my iPad, will try anyway.

GCinSC2 05-04-2021 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rage51 (Post 2490376)
.

I put the positive on the battery line to a big fuse and got a reading, but nothing on the other side.

Fuse kaput?

Start at incoming power and trace where you have 12V and where it stops.

Find a good ground and just leave the meter connected to it, then start tracing.

And if the fuse is open, what caused the overload and blew the fuse?

Rage51 05-04-2021 09:31 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2 (Post 2490382)
Fuse kaput?

Start at incoming power and trace where you have 12V and where it stops.

Find a good ground and just leave the meter connected to it, then start tracing.

And if the fuse is open, what caused the overload and blew the fuse?

I double checked and got a reading on both sides of the fuse, so I guess the fuse is fine. I traced power from the battery and found where it stopped. In photo below, the pink cable on the left side of the terminal block is where the power stops. The red cable next to it runs to the relay, and has no power.
Attachment 394867

GCinSC2 05-04-2021 10:05 AM

Rage,

Time to pull out your owners manual and look at page 8-17 for the 12V wiring diagram. Look at the 6 ga RED line coming off of the battery's to the positive distribution are in your pic. See CB1 looks like that is the main breaker for the trailer and each breaker gets its power from that copper bar.

Keep the diagnostics coming. Keep in mind, this is sofa diagnostics and not hands on.

Gary

Rage51 05-04-2021 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2 (Post 2490423)
Rage,

Time to pull out your owners manual and look at page 8-17 for the 12V wiring diagram. Look at the 6 ga RED line coming off of the battery's to the positive distribution are in your pic. See CB1 looks like that is the main breaker for the trailer and each breaker gets its power from that copper bar.

Keep the diagnostics coming. Keep in mind, this is sofa diagnostics and not hands on.

Gary

I did look at the diagram and confirm it is wired as shown. There is a “shortstop” cube inside the circuit board and the red line from the battery is very hot to the touch. I wonder if the CB strip is bad?

GCinSC2 05-04-2021 10:48 AM

Can you mark up your pic or make sketch?

Heat is a concern. Usually an indication of resistance in a circuit connection if in a distribution rather than power consumption area.

OutdoorIdaho 05-04-2021 11:18 AM

I seem to recall those cube breakers self reset. Given that it is hot I would disconnect your positive cable at the battery. Give things a chance to cool down before reconnecting the positive at the battery.

Ensure you place the disconnected cable such that keeps it clear of other battery terminals.

Rage51 05-04-2021 11:21 AM

Thanks for the feedback. I think the problem is the terminal strip needs replacement. Should be available from electrical supply outlets if I can get a number off the strip. For now, I think I should disconnect the hot terminal. It’s getting to where I need to start traveling to the civilized world to go further.

Rage51 05-04-2021 03:59 PM

No battery power update
 
I found a local RV repair shop and replaced the overheating circuit breaker, put it back together and now hear a clicking on the circuit breaker, I think resetting itself. Still no battery power to the trailer. Must have a short somewhere.

GCinSC2 05-04-2021 04:24 PM

Possible technique, disconnect a circuit or all circuits and see it that solves the overload. After disconnected then connect one at a time and find the overloaded circuit and then diagnosis that individual circuit.

Your 12V wiring diagram will be a big help.

Rage51 05-05-2021 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2 (Post 2490550)
Possible technique, disconnect a circuit or all circuits and see it that solves the overload. After disconnected then connect one at a time and find the overloaded circuit and then diagnosis that individual circuit.

Your 12V wiring diagram will be a big help.

The two 30 amp fuses in the main breaker panel were both failed, so I replaced them , and the new ones failed when I connected to shore power.

I’m not sure what circuit to disconnect. None are working. Where do I disconnect? How do I determine what is causing the 30 amp fuses to fail?

GCinSC2 05-05-2021 02:05 PM

Was any of this the result of any modifications, system failures or repairs prior to this issue?

You replaced two fuses, exactly which circuits were these fuses protecting?

If you can relate it to your owners manual wiring diagram I think that might help a lot too.

Rage51 05-06-2021 12:29 PM

More mystery
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2 (Post 2490873)
Was any of this the result of any modifications, system failures or repairs prior to this issue?

You replaced two fuses, exactly which circuits were these fuses protecting?

If you can relate it to your owners manual wiring diagram I think that might help a lot too.

No modifications or repairs... We decided to head home and stopped along the way a a campground and everything was working. Hooked up 20 amp shore power and thought the problem was solved. Thought something vibrated loose, but overnight the lights dimmed, the refrigerator went dark, but we still had weak power. The 30 amp fuses are attached to the “power center with 55 amp converter” shown on lower left. The battery showed 9.3 volts on the trailer display.

GCinSC2 05-06-2021 01:17 PM

Rage51,

I tried to find a manual on the 7355, no luck. It's a convertor and distribution center.

Are the 30A fuses supplying power from the convertor to the batteries?

Couple ideas, pull the batteries, what is the age of the batteries, check water level and put them on an ordinary battery charger. Overnight or so. See if you can get them tested or check the voltage a while after charging. A hydrometer can be a good tool to check battery health too. I'm also wondering if there is a way to disconnect the convertor from AC power and just hook up a good 30A or so battery charger for a test run.

I wonder if your convertor and/or batteries are done.

Electrical armchair diagnostics has it's limits, proceed at your discretion and comfort level.

Gary


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