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-   -   Victron Smartshunt (https://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/victron-smartshunt-220585.html)

JonDNC 03-19-2021 05:41 PM

Victron Smartshunt
 
I did the factory lithium upgrade to my 2019 with solar. System works as advertised but I realized there was really no way to monitor state of charge.

So I had a Victron Smartshunt installed which is a battery monitor without a display. It connects via Bluetooth to an app on your phone and gives you all the data.

Wicked cool install as we did not have to add a display somewhere.

wulfraat 03-19-2021 06:27 PM

Yes they are awesome! Highly accurate too!

Make sure you calibrate it by fully charging your batteries, then in the settings in the app you can set as 100% state of charge. you will also want to ensure other settings on the BMV are correct per lithium specs (Charged Voltage, Peukert Exponent, Tail Current, etc..).

Here is a hand page with links to BMV settings for different lithium batteries...

https://amsolar.com/victron/monitor-vtbmv-s

Always good to double check that your settings are correct to ensure maximum accuracy.

JonDNC 03-19-2021 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wulfraat (Post 2473705)
Yes they are awesome! Highly accurate too!

Make sure you calibrate it by fully charging your batteries, then in the settings in the app you can set as 100% state of charge. you will also want to ensure other settings on the BMV are correct per lithium specs (Charged Voltage, Peukert Exponent, Tail Current, etc..).

Here is a hand page with links to BMV settings for different lithium batteries...

https://amsolar.com/victron/monitor-vtbmv-s

Always good to double check that your settings are correct to ensure maximum accuracy.



Thanks, did all that as part of setup process, easier when you’re plugged in and have solar so I knew we were at 100% when we started the install.

Air4ME 05-31-2021 06:51 PM

Update on Smartshunt?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JonDNC (Post 2473683)
I did the factory lithium upgrade to my 2019 with solar. System works as advertised but I realized there was really no way to monitor state of charge.

So I had a Victron Smartshunt installed which is a battery monitor without a display. It connects via Bluetooth to an app on your phone and gives you all the data.

Wicked cool install as we did not have to add a display somewhere.

Are you happy with this install? Any concerns? Considering the same monitor and was interested in your thoughts.

ITSNO60 06-05-2021 02:16 PM

I'd like to know also how you are liking the Smart Shunt. I was all set to order one when I read a lot of negative reviews, of course some are probably user error.

JonDNC 06-05-2021 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ITSNO60 (Post 2501861)
I'd like to know also how you are liking the Smart Shunt. I was all set to order one when I read a lot of negative reviews, of course some are probably user error.



Works fine no issues.

AShar 06-19-2021 01:30 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I installed the SmartShunt in the battery box and I am very happy with it. Yes, it's true that the BT range is limited in the metal enclosure, but it's good enough for typical needs. Seems to work fine from the bed area in our 25FB, this is where I tend to need it the most to check on SOC during cold nights.
I have not yet installed the Lithium batteries though, it's running with my AGMs and I am not getting an accurate SOC. Does anyone has experience using a shunt with AGMs? It was showing 99% SOC when the voltage was just 12.2V, which if I go by my old chart means 60% SOC. Has anyone else experienced it. It appears that I am losing charge due to self-discharge of batteries.

gnijman 08-01-2021 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AShar (Post 2506799)
I installed the SmartShunt in the battery box and I am very happy with it. .

I have not yet bought one. The Manual online says it it not waterproof and to install in a “dry location”. The manual says it is rated IP21. The “1” is the liquids rating and means “ Dripping water (vertically falling drops) shall have no harmfull effect.”

I too have a FC25 and my battery box is where I would install the Smartshunt I guess. That is certainly a moist environment here on Vancouver Island. It won’t get splashed in there but everything will be moist if it’s wet on the roads where I drive.

Any feedback on having the Smartshunt mounted in the battery box wetness-wise”?

Gary

uncle_bob 08-01-2021 01:12 PM

Hi

Looking at how they are made, I would not install one "outdoors" in the battery box. There's a lot more than just water running around out there ( lots of crud from the road). Mine is installed inside the trailer. Some have tried to rig waterproof boxes in the battery box. That seems difficult to do properly.

Bob

gnijman 08-01-2021 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob (Post 2521884)
Hi

Looking at how they are made, I would not install one "outdoors" in the battery box. There's a lot more than just water running around out there ( lots of crud from the road). Mine is installed inside the trailer. Some have tried to rig waterproof boxes in the battery box. That seems difficult to do properly.

Bob

“Inside” installation is I’m sure more challenging given the instructions in the online manual:

Connection procedure:
1. Connect the negative battery terminal to the M10 bolt on the BATTEY MINUS side of the shunt.
Note that there should be no other connections on this side of the shunt or on the negative battery terminal. Any loads or chargers connected here will be excluded from the battery state of charge calculation.
2. Connect the negative of the electrical system to the M10 bolt on the SYSTEM MINUS side of the shunt. Make sure that the negative of all DC loads, inverters, battery chargers, solar chargers and other charge sources are connected “after” the shunt. Note that up until 2020, the SYSTEM MINUS connection was labelled LOAD MINUS.
3. Connect the ferrule pin of the red cable with fuse to the shunt by pushing the pin into to the “Vbatt +” terminal.
4. Connect the M10 terminal of the red cable with fuse to the positive terminal of the battery.

We have a FC 25 with forward bed twins so the forward road and curb side compartments and front storage compartment are somewhat accessible. Could I install the shunt in the forward curb side storage compartment or in the front storage compartment just behind the battery box. I do see the bundle of wires exiting the battery box and enter the AS below the front storage compartment so presumably I could follow that routing (with longer cabling) although I’ve never traced it.

Remember Bob, you’re talking to the guy who failed to understand my multi-meter was shot until you explained it in a recent forum post.

Gary

uncle_bob 08-02-2021 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gnijman (Post 2521943)
“Inside” installation is I’m sure more challenging given the instructions in the online manual:

Connection procedure:
1. Connect the negative battery terminal to the M10 bolt on the BATTEY MINUS side of the shunt.
Note that there should be no other connections on this side of the shunt or on the negative battery terminal. Any loads or chargers connected here will be excluded from the battery state of charge calculation.
2. Connect the negative of the electrical system to the M10 bolt on the SYSTEM MINUS side of the shunt. Make sure that the negative of all DC loads, inverters, battery chargers, solar chargers and other charge sources are connected “after” the shunt. Note that up until 2020, the SYSTEM MINUS connection was labelled LOAD MINUS.
3. Connect the ferrule pin of the red cable with fuse to the shunt by pushing the pin into to the “Vbatt +” terminal.
4. Connect the M10 terminal of the red cable with fuse to the positive terminal of the battery.

We have a FC 25 with forward bed twins so the forward road and curb side compartments and front storage compartment are somewhat accessible. Could I install the shunt in the forward curb side storage compartment or in the front storage compartment just behind the battery box. I do see the bundle of wires exiting the battery box and enter the AS below the front storage compartment so presumably I could follow that routing (with longer cabling) although I’ve never traced it.

Remember Bob, you’re talking to the guy who failed to understand my multi-meter was shot until you explained it in a recent forum post.

Gary

Hi

Without actually seeing your trailer and seeing all the wires involved ( = being there ) there is no way to come up with a perfect answer. Basics:

1) Pull all the wires off of the negative side of all the batteries.

2) Run a wire from each battery to the top of the shunt.

3) Run all the wires you pulled off ( except what ran battery to battery) to the other side of the shunt.

The DC distribution bus for the trailer is (normally) inside the trailer. It's there to keep it out of the water and muck. I would mount the shunt in the same vicinity. Makes for a dry mount, and good Bluetooth in the trailer. One way or the other, the battery bank already feeds back to this area.

Does this mean a cable or two gets made? It might. That's part of the fun of all this :) :) . Worst case is probably two cables and two terminal blocks / junctions. Make sure they are big enough to handle the current. If you have an inverter, that's bigger wire than if you don't.

Bob

PB_NB 08-02-2021 08:58 AM

Hi Gary, when I installed my Victron monitor (I have the 712 with Display), I did it with some other upgrades so I had a layout of where I wanted things to go. Also, my trailer was pretty simple with very basic systems.

I put a Lithium battery in under the front bed and made some cables to suit the lengths from the battery to the bus bar. Only dealing with one big battery made the connection of the shunt quite easy. I have my shunt attached to the wooden framing about 2 feet from the battery and about 2 feet from the bus bar.

This was very simple and I don’t need to worry about water proofing the shunt. I put the battery inside as well so it is less likely to freeze in the winter.

I also put and inverter in the area and wired a shore switch to the breaker panel. Then changed the converter to a lithium friendly model.

Sorry for the long winded description but what I am trying to say is look at your plans with your power systems and see if there are any other items that you want to tackle while the trailer is apart.

gnijman 08-02-2021 07:54 PM

Thanks Bob and Peter. I’ll have a scout around for where things are and do some head scratching.

Gary

billhenry58 09-01-2021 07:06 PM

Can I tag on to this thread please? I recently bought a 2018 with a SmartShunt 500 connected to 2 6v batteries in series. I'm an electronics idiot and am trying to figure things out. I charged the batteries to 13.4 or so and the SOC never budged off 0%. I manually set the SOC to 100 and a couple of days later the SOC reads 81%. This was while plugged in to shore power. Any suggestions? The batteries seem to be holding a charge. I charged them to 13.20ish and then ran all three fans for 72 hours and all worked fine. Thanks in AdvanceE

uncle_bob 09-02-2021 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billhenry58 (Post 2533419)
Can I tag on to this thread please? I recently bought a 2018 with a SmartShunt 500 connected to 2 6v batteries in series. I'm an electronics idiot and am trying to figure things out. I charged the batteries to 13.4 or so and the SOC never budged off 0%. I manually set the SOC to 100 and a couple of days later the SOC reads 81%. This was while plugged in to shore power. Any suggestions? The batteries seem to be holding a charge. I charged them to 13.20ish and then ran all three fans for 72 hours and all worked fine. Thanks in AdvanceE

Hi

Best guess is that the shunt is wired wrong. It is possible that one or more settings are goofed. I can't think of any that would result in zero change as you charge the batteries.

Correct wiring of the shunt with 6V batteries:

Pull off all the wires from the negative terminal. They likely are all black wires.

They *all* move to the "low side" of the shunt.

A new wire of the appropriate gauge goes from the battery negative to the "high side" of the shunt.

Best guess is that one or more wires didn't get moved when the shunt went in.

Bob


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