Originally Posted by Spaggs (Post 2423485)

Since you mentioned tire pressures, I’ll add my two cents. To properly determine pressure, you should measure tire temps. The measurements should be taken at the inside, center and outside of the tread (where rubber meets the road) for each tire of your tow vehicle and trailer. The temps, ideally should be the same across the tire. You can use any kind of gauge, but the quicker read-out the better. This won’t give you the best gas mileage, but it will give you the best tire wear and most stable platform. If you find higher temps on one side or another, an alignment is needed. If the center temp is higher than the sides, lower the pressure. Similarly, if temps are lower in the center, increase the pressure.
Good looking setup!

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS (Post 2423585)

Disclaimer....I noe nothing.

You need 1000lb,(or less). It's not the tongue weight, it's how much of that weight do you need to move.
BTW...you do not know the actual TW.
TW is measured unhitched on a scale.
Receiver weight is measured on the CAT hitched.

Our TW is 1200lb.
860lb receiver wt with WD set
560 to the FA
160 to the AS
720 moved with 1000lb WD bars.

BTW...the link you provided won't even provide a recommendation for anything over an 800lb TW on a 7300 GVW with a 1000lb payload

Bob
����

Originally Posted by BayouBiker (Post 2423274)

Looks and sounds very well set-up. Ball is nice and close to the bumper. Have you thought about tire pressures? They can make a big difference also. Loaded our 25' FBT has a tongue weight of 1020-1120 depending on grey and black tank levels. Ford's FALR guidance applies near the upper towing limits so you have some room to fine tune based on actual road experience, particularly if you run the rear tires with a bit more pressure.

Be aware though many/most modern trailers with front storage compartments are experiencing dimpling and creasing of the lower outer sheet at the lower corners of the storage compartment. Airstream is aware, perhaps they have shored up the structure for the 21 model year. Large trucks, stiff WD bars with high tension and high trailer tire pressures seem to contribute. I have very small dimpling which has not gotten worse since I went to lower trailer tire pressure and a more forgiving WD set-up. Would love to hear your experience as you use the trailer.

Originally Posted by Jasper Ash (Post 2426199)

You had me satisfied at “F-250”.

I can also confirm that stiff bars on a big truck can cause a stress crease below the front storage hatch. Definitely something to keep an eye on with that 25FB. Our trailer was delivered to us with this stress crease. We thought our new Airstream was delivered on a flatbed but turns out it was hitched up and towed down - likely by a big strong truck and heavy duty bars.

We tow our 27FB with a Tundra and 14,000 lb bars. I wanted to drop down to 12,000 lb or 10,000 lb but Equalizer informed us that both the 12,000 lb and 14,000 lb bars are of the same size and strength so we left it as-is. The stress crease has not gotten worse over time.

Originally Posted by BayouBiker (Post 2426315)

Here are my little dimples. Initially, there was no deformation in this area.

Originally Posted by Life is a Highway (Post 2426086)

Yes happened to our trailer and ruined a summer vacation while it was repaired. My 250 with equalizer only needs the 10,000 bars. Been at Jackson three times this year, Every time I look at a ft storage trailer I see the dimples. Most people are NOT happy when you show them, some are grateful to get it fixed. I just saw a new 27 GT dimples and cracked bad! They are VERY busy fixing this. I would not buy a trailer with a ft locker again.

Originally Posted by BayouBiker (Post 2426315)

Here are my little dimples. Initially, there was no deformation in this area.

Attachment 381892

Attachment 381893

It is the front compartment behind the battery box.

Originally Posted by TowmaterATX (Post 2423236)

I spent today setting up my hitch and running to the CAT scales to finish the fine tuning. Would love to get some feedback on where I settled.

Truck is a 2020 F250 Plat.
Trailer is a 2021 GT 25 FBT
Hitch is 12k Equalizer
Final setup was 5 washers and L bracket attached through the 2 middle holes.

Truck only - Front 4280 Rear 3420 Gross 7700
Truck no w dist - Front 3900 Rear 4740 Trailer 5400 Gross 14040
Final tuned setup - Front 4100 Rear 4380 Trailer 5580 Gross 14060

I took a picture from a distance and everything looks pretty level as well (attached).

The front is 1/4 to 1/2 inch lower than the back when parked on what I believe was level ground.

Looks like I lost 380lbs off the front and with the hitch I put 200 back on. That's about 52% put back. The manual said shoot for 50% to slightly over so I figured that's good.

Looks like my tongue weight is 940lbs. It has full propane, but the trailer is still pretty empty. Plan to rerun my weights once I get it loaded and add water etc. Since that is so high, I'm glad I chose to go with the 12k equalizer head and bars.

Any suggestions on further adjustments welcome!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by MimiandRandy (Post 2427517)

Question: I just set-up my F250 with an 11” drop shank. With my rig leveled and Equalizer WD set-up my shank only has a ground clearance of 6”. Equalizer tells me that is the minimum acceptable height. I’m curious: what is the ground clearance beneath your drop shank?