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-   -   Suggestions for stinger top coat (https://www.airforums.com/forums/f464/suggestions-for-stinger-top-coat-207291.html)

dznf0g 04-11-2020 12:31 PM

Suggestions for stinger top coat
 
1 Attachment(s)
What would you all suggest for a top coat for my stinger which has been stripped, prepped and painted with Por 15?Attachment 365481

Downhill502 04-11-2020 03:24 PM

Por-15 makes their own topcoat but what you have will harden quit nicely without anything additional.

dznf0g 04-11-2020 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhill502 (Post 2350031)
Por-15 makes their own topcoat but what you have will harden quit nicely without anything additional.

My understanding is por15 is UV sensitive and will degrade without a topcoat.
I didn't use a topcoat when I coated the inside of my bumper drawer and am very happy with the durability of the coating. But it isn't in the sun.
Has anyone painted with por15 on an item which receives a lot of sunlight? Feedback?

ROBERT CROSS 04-11-2020 04:13 PM

1 Attachment(s)
[QUOTE=dznf0g;2350032]My understanding is por15 is UV sensitive and will degrade without a topcoat.
I didn't use a topcoat when I coated the inside of my bumper drawer and am very happy with the durability of the coating. But it isn't in the sun.
Has anyone painted with por15 on an item which receives a lot of sunlight? Feedback?

I'm cheep...plain old brush-on flat enamel.🤓
The brush marks add character.
I figger, rusting to nothing is unlikely, and as long as it's black it's GTG.:wally:

Bob
🇺🇸

dznf0g 04-11-2020 04:57 PM

I agree, Bob, after the first redo. I have yet to own a hitch which had quality paint at time of manufacture. Sandblasted my Hensley and painted with a 2 part urethane plus clearcoat about 8 years ago. Still looks great, with just artist brush touchup when I chip it.
Do it once and do it right. Same with this propride stinger-for-Hensley that Sean made.

57Vintage 04-11-2020 07:34 PM

I made the mistake of not top coating the tongue when the frame was first painted. By end of summer I could see the paint was beginning to dull. Use their top coat. You can buy it in aerosol can.

dznf0g 04-11-2020 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57Vintage (Post 2350075)
I made the mistake of not top coating the tongue when the frame was first painted. By end of summer I could see the paint was beginning to dull. Use their top coat. You can buy it in aerosol can.

I went ahead and used some Centari automotive enamel I had left over from another project. We'll see how it holds up.

dhroberts 04-12-2020 10:45 AM

If I use the POR-15 product set (cleaner, metal prep, paint and clear coat) on my ProPride hitch / stinger, do need to sandblast first?

dznf0g 04-12-2020 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhroberts (Post 2350232)
If I use the POR-15 product set (cleaner, metal prep, paint and clear coat) on my ProPride hitch / stinger, do need to sandblast first?

Strip or sandblast. POR is short for paint over rust. It likes rough pitted surfaces, although the metal prep does a good job of etching. It doesnt like prior paint surface.
I would strip, and any surfaces that are baby butt smooth, rough up a bit with wire brush and/or sandpaper. Then clean and metal prep.
I did that with my galvanized bumper drawer. Some of it was rusted and pitted and some was fresh galvanized, which is difficult for coatings to stick to. Roughing it then using the cleaner and prep worked really well.

Tom_T 04-12-2020 02:23 PM

If you don't have access to media blasting, then Evapo-Rust works as well or better.

https://evapo-rust.com/

It's water soluable & environmentally safe.

Small to medium sized parts can be immersed in a plastic tub filled to top the item(s), while large parts will need to be covered with Evapo-Rust soaked rags which you'll need to keep wet for the soak/rust-removal time (or use their gel with wet rags over to prevent evaporation, per their instructions).

You may need to file/grind/sand the rust removed surface afterwards, because it literally eats the rust out of the metal, leaving voids.

After removal you'll have a fresh rust-free surface, so no need for POR-15, because you're no longer "painting over rust". ;)

So you can refinish with standard paints & primers of your choice, or powder coat (though probably not PC for the stinger due to the abuse it gets).

I've used Evapo-Rust on numerous auto resto parts to get to a rust free part, then I'll refinish it in paint or PC. For primer I'd suggest either a zinc rich "weld through" primer for it's rust prevention (zinc is sacrificial to prevent rust, just like zinc plated metal & the modern hot-dipped car bodies), or else a 2 part epoxy primer to seal our the moisture, with a top coat of epoxy paint - unless PP or H has a better option as below.

I don't think that the urethane paints will have the durability for stinger use, especially with the modern formulations taking out most of the chemicals which made the original stuff so durable (same for urethane varnish) - & the solvent/oil based urethane paints/varnishes will still be more durable than the new water based ones. I say this with some technical knowledge from my Petro-Chemist Dad, who had invented urethane varnishes & paints while at Koppers in the late 1950's - early 1960s.

I'd check with Shaun at ProPride or Terry P. at Hensley for what paints they use/recco.

Alternatively - if you're work averse ;) , then I think that PP & H do the Lifetime warranty stinger exchange for you, but you may have to pay the shipping if it's not otherwise damaged. You've got time now with all the shut-downs to send it out & get back in time for whenever things open up again for travel & camping.

Also - a tip that Terry at Hensley gave me was to spray both ends of the stinger where they insert into the receiver & head with WD-40, both to prevent rust where they constantly rub, & to lubricate it some so that you don't get binding & banging when released (it may also be in the Hensley manual). The WD-40 will also inhibit the rust too, so give it a spray & wipe with WD-40 when storing after the trip.

Cheers!
Tom
///////

dznf0g 04-12-2020 03:50 PM

All I can say is the 2 part urethane I used 8 years ago has held up well. It was clear coated as well.
I coat my stinger with mountain bike chain lube. It dries to a paraffin-like coating
That does not attract dirt. I gave up on all wet lubes. Way too dirty.

dznf0g 04-12-2020 03:51 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is one example. Great for the door hinges as well. Attachment 365616

Also really good for padlocks. Repels water.

dznf0g 04-12-2020 04:04 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is what it looks like today. And it hasn't had its spring clean and servicing yet. Attachment 365619

lovemorels 04-13-2020 06:59 AM

Does the White lightening work ok for high temp friction and allow it to be used on the hitch ball head as well?

dznf0g 04-13-2020 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemorels (Post 2350538)
Does the White lightening work ok for high temp friction and allow it to be used on the hitch ball head as well?

Hmm, never tried, but I doubt it. Its designed for bicycle chains....not even motorcycle chains, so that implies a relatively low torque application, translating to relatively low pressure and friction heat generation.
It wouldn't hurt to try it for a days towing, but I would think it probably wouldn't perform well.

Tom_T 04-13-2020 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g (Post 2350391)
All I can say is the 2 part urethane I used 8 years ago has held up well. It was clear coated as well.
I coat my stinger with mountain bike chain lube. It dries to a paraffin-like coating
That does not attract dirt. I gave up on all wet lubes. Way too dirty.

Rich -

Your hitch looks nice! Is that PP or Hensley?

That "2 Part" above is the key to yours' durability for 8 years - Base + Hardener - so it's more like an epoxy paint, & may actually be considered an epoxy type of paint. Thar was the point I was trying to make for a durable paint in the hitch/stinger application.

To clarify - I was talking about the 1 part brush-on cans & rattle-can spray on urethane paints & varnishes not being as durable as a 2 part product.

Personally I don't mind the WD-40 wet film (I wipe off the excess after a minute +/- after spraying), but your bike grease seems like another good alternative.

Cheers!
Tom
///////

dznf0g 04-13-2020 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom_T (Post 2350679)
Rich -

Your hitch looks nice! Is that PP or Hensley?

That "2 Part" above is the key to yours' durability for 8 years - Base + Hardener - so it's more like an epoxy paint, & may actually be considered an epoxy type of paint. Thar was the point I was trying to make for a durable paint in the hitch/stinger application.

To clarify - I was talking about the 1 part brush-on cans & rattle-can spray on urethane paints & varnishes not being as durable as a 2 part product.

Personally I don't mind the WD-40 wet film (I wipe off the excess after a minute +/- after spraying), but your bike grease seems like another good alternative.

Cheers!
Tom
///////

It's an early Hensley....like 1999. I bought used with little miles and wear. Serial number sticker was gone so I couldn't transfer warranty, but they did identify it by the ball. Early ones had the (i forget the name) removable ball so one could exchange the ball on the welded on post. It had sat out and looked terrible.

mikesSE 04-25-2020 06:02 AM

Paint the hitch a bright color. It’s easier to see what happened when you hit your shin on it!


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