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spotted_dog 12-28-2018 09:21 PM

Smart App and Router WiFi Network Issues
 
I have a 2019 Classic with the router that comes with it. I also have installed the Airstream Smart app and successfully connected to the router. When I try and setup the Network wifi in the app and select any of the available wifis the app sees, I get an error:

Couldn't connect to network
There maybe a problem with this network

I can connect to any of these wifi from any of my other devices without issues.

I also have a Verizon Eclipse Jetpack wifi that I can successfully connect to without issue. But the smart app doesn't see the Jetpack wifi at all.

What am I doing wrong or is this an issue with either the Smart app or the router or both?

turk123 12-28-2018 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spotted_dog (Post 2194290)
I have a 2019 Classic with the router that comes with it. I also have installed the Airstream Smart app and successfully connected to the router. When I try and setup the Network wifi in the app and select any of the available wifis the app sees, I get an error:

Couldn't connect to network
There maybe a problem with this network

I can connect to any of these wifi from any of my other devices without issues.

I also have a Verizon Eclipse Jetpack wifi that I can successfully connect to without issue. But the smart app doesn't see the Jetpack wifi at all.

What am I doing wrong or is this an issue with either the Smart app or the router or both?

Airstream may have turned off your wifi over WAN as this feature causes the Peplink wifi to slow to about one-tenth what it should be. Does your cell service work for you? Did you sign up for an account with ATT?

Read my post in "Flight of the AirDreamer" to learn lots about the hotspot! PM me for more details.

Presitla99 12-28-2018 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spotted_dog (Post 2194290)
I have a 2019 Classic with the router that comes with it. I also have installed the Airstream Smart app and successfully connected to the router. When I try and setup the Network wifi in the app and select any of the available wifis the app sees, I get an error:

Couldn't connect to network
There maybe a problem with this network

I can connect to any of these wifi from any of my other devices without issues.

I also have a Verizon Eclipse Jetpack wifi that I can successfully connect to without issue. But the smart app doesn't see the Jetpack wifi at all.

What am I doing wrong or is this an issue with either the Smart app or the router or both?

Have you set up an account with AT&T by signing in to ATT.net/airstream?

spotted_dog 12-29-2018 09:48 PM

Auto Registration with ATT
 
When you use the Airstream Smart app, it has you read the QR code on the router. That setups an auto registration with a free 1 year trial of the ATT service. We are in an area where, even with the boost signal that is suppose to be built in to the unit, we are able to use the Airstream Wifi from the router (it's just very slow). I also received an email verifying successful registration.

What I am trying to do now through the Smart app is setup the alternate Wifi for the router and this is where the problem is occurring.

I will take a look at the posting mentioned above to see if there is anything there that will help or answer my problem.

turk123 12-29-2018 10:48 PM

PM me and I will hook you up with Jason. He is the project manager on the smart system. Get ready for a ride.

spotted_dog 12-30-2018 08:17 PM

I read your posting. All 17 pages. Very informative indeed! All of our devices (laptops, iPhones, iPads). After reading everything you had, I ended up attaching an Apple Airport Extreme to the Pepwave via the LAN/WAN port with a Cat 5e cable. Since doing that, everything rocks! I can now stream videos via Amazon Prime and Netflix on the LG projector . It's awesome. Thanks for your help and all the info from you and everyone else that replied to your thread.

turk123 12-30-2018 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spotted_dog (Post 2194969)
I read your posting. All 17 pages. Very informative indeed! All of our devices (laptops, iPhones, iPads). After reading everything you had, I ended up attaching an Apple Airport Extreme to the Pepwave via the LAN/WAN port with a Cat 5e cable. Since doing that, everything rocks! I can now stream videos via Amazon Prime and Netflix on the LG projector . It's awesome. Thanks for your help and all the info from you and everyone else that replied to your thread.

Yep! There is a flaw in the Airstream smart system but a fix that is pretty easy and inexpensive to get incredible performance. Maybe Airstream will fix this, but I'm past that after spending three months (hmmm . maybe 4?) working on it. I'm moving on with this and it will outperform the peplink every time.

Ephraim 03-28-2019 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turk123 (Post 2194301)
Airstream may have turned off your wifi over WAN as this feature causes the Peplink wifi to slow to about one-tenth what it should be. Does your cell service work for you? Did you sign up for an account with ATT?

Read my post in "Flight of the AirDreamer" to learn lots about the hotspot! PM me for more details.

turk123, I've been reading up on your troubles with airstream. I'm interested because I just bought a 2019 Classic (I take possession of it next week. In particular, I was interested in the issue where the system checks about once a second for the WiFi-Wan connectivity.

Have you spoken to the Airstream techs about that issue specifically? I'm wondering because I downloaded the pepwave manual from their web site and there is a setting where you can adjust how often that health check occurs. (It's on page 80 of the current manual -> "Health Check Interval")

Anyway, I think a better solution, rather than just turning the WiFi-Wan off, would be to activate the second Wan/Lan port as an Ethernet Wan and using a secondary radio to set up WiFi-wan through that port. That way, you could retain the default control over the WiFi-lan and just turn your secondary radio on/off when you want WiFi-wan or not.

They would still need to put a reasonable health check interval setting in there, but it would get rid of pretty much all of the other problems. As an additional benefit, if you are in a park where you have access to an actual Ethernet port (such as when it is parked at my house), you get decent speed.

I wonder who I would need to talk to at airstream to make these suggestions to them?

BTW, I do wireless networking for a living.

turk123 03-28-2019 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ephraim (Post 2224952)
turk123, I've been reading up on your troubles with airstream. I'm interested because I just bought a 2019 Classic (I take possession of it next week. In particular, I was interested in the issue where the system checks about once a second for the WiFi-Wan connectivity.

Have you spoken to the Airstream techs about that issue specifically? I'm wondering because I downloaded the pepwave manual from their web site and there is a setting where you can adjust how often that health check occurs. (It's on page 80 of the current manual -> "Health Check Interval")

Anyway, I think a better solution, rather than just turning the WiFi-Wan off, would be to activate the second Wan/Lan port as an Ethernet Wan and using a secondary radio to set up WiFi-wan through that port. That way, you could retain the default control over the WiFi-lan and just turn your secondary radio on/off when you want WiFi-wan or not.

They would still need to put a reasonable health check interval setting in there, but it would get rid of pretty much all of the other problems. As an additional benefit, if you are in a park where you have access to an actual Ethernet port (such as when it is parked at my house), you get decent speed.

I wonder who I would need to talk to at airstream to make these suggestions to them?

BTW, I do wireless networking for a living.

There is only one radio in the Peplink modem (2.6 GHz). They are sharing it when they turn on the wifi as WAN and the modem searches every two seconds for a signal (campground). It is horrible. The health check is something else as Peplink has to change the firmware to search at a slower interval. You nor Airstream can change it.

Airstream is now well aware of the problem. The last report I sent them confirmed that the searches for WiFi as WAN where choking the cell network.

So have them shut off the WiFi as WAN for now and it will really improve your speed. You don't need it anyway. The cell performance is stellar!

I believe Airstream will eventually change to the Peplink Wave mini mkII which does have 2 radios. They can then use one radio for "campground" mode (2.6) and one radio for the cell (5 ghz).

By the way, you have no control over the modem. Airstream has it locked and you do not have the password. Add the second dual band wireless router to the ethernet port as I've explained earlier. You will love yourself for it!

Froglips 03-31-2019 12:23 PM

turk123,
Remind me which router you bought? Everything on Amazon looks huge.

turk123 03-31-2019 04:33 PM

tp link dual band router. $49 retail, $17 frys on sale

Froglips 04-05-2019 11:39 AM

turk123
Where did you get power for the router? I pulled off the side panel after pulling the router cover off. Lots of wires in there, some not connected, none labeled. Looks like another AS rat's nest.
There is a power distribution block on the back of the side panel with fuses. Anything in there 110? Or did you clip off the wall wart connect it to a 5v supply some place?

turk123 04-05-2019 12:14 PM

If you look at the PDF I posted it describes the installation. Maybe Peter can find the link again.

That panel with fuses is where you tie in. You do cut off the transformer. If your router is 5v you will have to get a device to convert 12v to 5v and add that to the fray.

turk123 04-05-2019 12:22 PM

This is the wireless router I user at Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC120...s%2C166&sr=8-5

Froglips 04-05-2019 03:01 PM

Got it. Ordered the newer version of the TP and outsmarted myself. Thanks. Will look for the wiring diagram.

Ephraim 04-06-2019 09:30 AM

So I took possession of my new 30' classic yesterday and spent the first night in it last night. A couple of observations on the "Smart" stuff.

1) An iPhone SE can not connect to the Airstream Wifi

2) A Galaxy Tab A had no problems connecting to the Airstream Wifi, but the smart app was missing the menu entry to sign up for the AT&T plan

3) An iPad 10" could connect and had the AT&T plan signup tab so I was able to get it.

4) Wells Fargo doesn't like AT&T. They blocked two cards while I was trying to sign up. While I had them on the phone, they blocked a third card. They had to manually keep it from blocking while I rand the charge. - goofy.

5) The Peplink cannot connect to my home WiFi. It throws an error that tells me something is wrong with my network. Except I'm a network guy and there is nothing wrong with my network. The problem is that the Peplink is doing something weird. If my iPhone can't connect to it and it can't connect to my WiFi, it is the common feature.

I'll keep you guys posted on what I find.

The issue is deeper than just turning off the "camp WiFi" feature. The Peplink has issues.

AirstreamInc 04-08-2019 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ephraim (Post 2227970)
So I took possession of my new 30' classic yesterday and spent the first night in it last night. A couple of observations on the "Smart" stuff.

1) An iPhone SE can not connect to the Airstream Wifi

2) A Galaxy Tab A had no problems connecting to the Airstream Wifi, but the smart app was missing the menu entry to sign up for the AT&T plan

3) An iPad 10" could connect and had the AT&T plan signup tab so I was able to get it.

4) Wells Fargo doesn't like AT&T. They blocked two cards while I was trying to sign up. While I had them on the phone, they blocked a third card. They had to manually keep it from blocking while I rand the charge. - goofy.

5) The Peplink cannot connect to my home WiFi. It throws an error that tells me something is wrong with my network. Except I'm a network guy and there is nothing wrong with my network. The problem is that the Peplink is doing something weird. If my iPhone can't connect to it and it can't connect to my WiFi, it is the common feature.

I'll keep you guys posted on what I find.

The issue is deeper than just turning off the "camp WiFi" feature. The Peplink has issues.

Hi Ephraim,*

Congratulations on your new Airstream and we're very sorry to learn about the issues you are having. Please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team. We look forward to helping you get this resolved.

You can also reach Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support at*customer_support@airstream.com*

Thank you.*

Ephraim 04-08-2019 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirstreamInc (Post 2228853)
Hi Ephraim,*

Congratulations on your new Airstream and we're very sorry to learn about the issues you are having. Please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team. We look forward to helping you get this resolved.

You can also reach Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support at*customer_support@airstream.com*

Thank you.*

I called Airstream today and spoke with John. He said he was going to have to have Jason call me back.

Basically, the peplink is unable to do reliably what it has been tasked with doing. If I set my home network to "open", it will attach to it. If it is set to WEP, WPA, or WPA2, it will not. Obviously, I can't leave it open or my entire neighborhood will be parking in my drive to get free internet.

What I really need is for Airstream to be able to put the peplink in a "passthrough" mode so that I can place my own router behind it without having a double nat situation. VoIP doesn't work well over double nat and the Peplink will not allow some devices (like my iPhone SE) to connect to it.

What I want to do is put in a Ubiquity UniFi network with a UniFi Security Gateway (USG) as the router. That would give me the ability to use the AT&T as well as my choice of an additional WiFi in bridge mode for the campground WiFi option or the AT&T with an Ethernet port (for when I'm parked at home - I can run a hard line to the trailer then).

For many of my travels, I can then use the UniFi system to control my "stuff".

I eagerly await a call from Jason :-)

turk123 04-08-2019 04:24 PM

I have to admit that I was not sure what double NAT meant. Here is a discussion about it:

https://inmethod.com/forum/posts/list...A97070C5BD9C02

After talking with Ephraim on the phone, I started looking into it. I use a VPN while doing banking and such. Up to now, I did not notice any issues, but I guess with a double NAT there could be problems.

Looking forward to what you find out from Jason.

Ephraim 04-08-2019 05:40 PM

There are a number of problems with double nat in electronics today and a couple of ways around it.

When you have a nat (network address translation) setup, your router gives you a non-routable IP address. The router keeps track of traffic to each device that is attached to your network. It translates the local address to its own address for all outgoing traffic. When traffic returns, it knows which local connection that traffic belongs to and it will place that device's address back into the packet of information.

To the rest of the world, it looks like you have one address - that of your router, even though you may have literally hundreds of devices behind it.

Traffic that is incoming, but not associated with any outgoing traffic is the problem. The router just doesn't know what to do with it. We get around this problem by forwarding rules. (i.e. - all web traffic is directed to a web server, or something like that.) There are protocols to automate this for you (UPnP and others) but these are not perfect and can cause security problems.

VoIP, in particular needs to be able to send your phone packets of information. This is usually taken care of by having a STUN server where your local phone can find out if it's behind a nat. It will then act accordingly. However, STUN does not work very well with a double nat (two routers in series like when you place your own behind the Peplink). Your phone will discover the first router, but not the second and incoming calls will typically not work. For most traffic, you can make some firewall rules like a 1:1 nat where the Peplink router would think that your router is the only one attached and will forward all traffic it receives to your router. That simulates a single nat situation, but in my experience VoIP and online gaming still have issues with that setup alot of the time. it depends on how the manufacturer implements it.

Comcast Cable company seems to get around it by having ALL of their customer traffic on VPNs that terminate in the local modems. I don't know how AT&T does it. Most of the time Comcast Cable works, but I've seen situations where it didn't.

Century Link DSL modems have a feature where they just pass through the traffic and you set your router up for the public IP (DHCP or PPPoE), but AT&T needs to be mobile, so I assume this has to be coordinated with them.

The issue with Peplink not connecting to some networks and not allowing some devices to connect to it is not unusual. I had a Verizon hotspot that had some of the same issues. They eventually solved it with a firmware upgrade. The built-in hotspot on the iPhones has also suffered from that. Two years ago, I was unable to connect my Lenovo laptop to the iPhone. One of their upgrades eventually fixed it.

IMOHO, having one device try to be a AT&T modem, fail-over router, Campsite WiFi station, and a local WiFi access point makes it difficult to get any of them right.

I'm hoping for the LTE modem pass-through option and then let me take care of the rest - though I'm fully aware that is not an option for most who buy the Classic.

What might be an option that would work for everyone is if Airstream used a passthrough LTE modem and a separate router/WiFi which would allow me to replace the router/WiFi with my Ubiquity UniFi system. Those who didn't want the complexity of that could just stick with the standard router/WiFi box.

Ephraim 04-13-2019 07:05 PM

A few interesting updates here.

I haven't spoken to Jason yet - he's apparently a pretty busy guy. I did however speak with John. They shutdown the Camp Wifi Feature and my speed jumped from ~2Mb/s to ~4-9Mb/s. When I put my own router in for local WiFi the speeds jumped to ~20Mb/s but was much steadier.

I'm not done as I have some other stuff I want to do which I'll write about later when I try it, but during the course of the conversation a couple of things popped up that I thought were interesting.

I tapped into the power in the left speaker cubby for power to my Dewalt Mobilelock which will be the security system for the trailer. When I opened the cabinet (in which you have to remove the wood cover to the router in order to access the panel for the cubby) My classic had a Czone wireless module in there. A bit of research showed that Airstream is using this device for the Ethernet port to the peplink and that the Czone wireless is turned off.

Airstream said if I wanted to, I could reset the Peplink back to factory default and the AT&T connectivity would be unaffected, but that I would loose the app functionality on the phone. However, Czone is pretty friendly and it may be possible to create a new interface directly to the CZone. I'm mulling this over as I could see adding an additional Czone I/O module to control a couple of other things. Czone has the ability to allow you to build a custom app interface. I like Airstream's interface (including the custom buttons throughout the trailer. I probably won't touch that aspect of it until the factory warranty expires, but it's nice to know that option is there if I want it.

Airstream did say one of the factors that convinced them to move from Firefly to Czone was the ability to customize things. Apparently Czone is better at that.

So far, my only complaint is that the Czone buttons don't have lighted names. You have to memorize their location because in dim lighting, you can't tell what button is what.

Froglips 04-14-2019 08:09 AM

I have followed turk123's instructions to install a TP-Link 1200AP. I have the speaker cover panel off presently.

Did AS give you instructions on how to reset the PEPLink? I am not sure I want to turn off the campground wifi repeater but I am nevertheless interested in the option and process.

I definitely do not want to lose the app access.

turk123 04-14-2019 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Froglips (Post 2230798)
I have followed turk123's instructions to install a TP-Link 1200AP. I have the speaker cover panel off presently.

Did AS give you instructions on how to reset the PEPLink? I am not sure I want to turn off the campground wifi repeater but I am nevertheless interested in the option and process.

I definitely do not want to lose the app access.

I believe the Peplink is reset like most routers, a press of a reset button on the back using something like a paperclip. Do not do this if you do not want to lose your Czone support.

As to the Campground WIFI as WAN, leaving it on will kill your speed as the previous post above confirms once again. Have Airstream turn it off for you and just use your phone to tie into the campground when you need it.

turk123 04-14-2019 08:34 AM

"So far, my only complaint is that the Czone buttons don't have lighted names. You have to memorize their location because in dim lighting, you can't tell what button is what.
Ephraim "


That was my biggest complaint when we got into our Classic! We need a downward facing light that you can press to light up the panel to see. The panel over by the couch has one button that turns on the lights in the whole trailer. My wife's gonna kill me if I hit that one more time while she is sleeping!

Interesting info about the Czone panel and resetting modem. The Airstream app is quite good and I would hate to lose it. Airstream has mentioned improvements to the app, but we probably won't see that for a while. I believe the most sought after improvement would be customizable mood lighting other than the ones offered.

uncle_bob 04-14-2019 09:24 AM

Hi

After two years of doing this - just forget about campground WiFi. It simply isn't worth it. If and when WiFi 6 gets here it may address some of the fundamental issues that pretty much guarantee it will be useless. Then all we'll need to do is upgrade all the hardware in all the campsites and all the RV's ...

Bob

Ephraim 04-14-2019 11:57 AM

@uncle_bob

As part of my "regular" job, I provide the wireless Internet at an RV site. I can tell you that there are multiple problems which is why almost all RV parks stink for camp WiFi.

1) Most RV parts are not in the middle of an Urban area with access to fiber. I actually have to wirelessly connect this park through 4 towers. The closest fiber drop is over 35 miles away. Yes, I can provide 1Gb/s service to the park, but the cost would be sky high.

1a) I have to buy the 1Gb/s service at a commercial rate (~$1000/month). It's that high, because the park would use the full 1Gb/s 24/7 if they could so the company has to guarantee full bandwidth 24/7

1b) Each tower costs ~$60,000 (because three of them are solar powered). I can resell bandwidth off of them to other customers (i do) but any bandwidth guaranteed to the RV park is lost to me for resale.

1a) Because the towers are solar powered and in high wind areas, they require frequent maintenance. ~ 1/3 of a full time tech which costs me ~90,000/yr after pay and benefits are factored in so you're looking at ~30,000/yr, not including equipment lost to lightning or 75 mph gusty winds.

1c) Don't forget these are towers so I have to have qualified personnel and insurance to cover that. Insurance count tower work as "high risk". I pay alot for insurance.

2) RV park owners tend to be cheap. They forget that they are out in the boonies. This one is willing to pay me $350/mo for his Internet. He has almost 45 full time spots and about 25 overnight spots.

3) The RV park owner doesn't want to suffer the same problems that the campers do so he has me devot half of the bandwidth to his office and his house.

4) The rest of the park splits 4Mb/s between all of the campers. Remember that a Netfix movie on an HD TV requires about 5Mb/s

It would cost me almost $6000/mo to deliver 1Gb/s guaranteed service to him and that is before I figure ANY profit for me into the situation. I don't do this out of the kindness of my heart. I have to eat too.

Lets say if he paid me $7000/mo, he'd have the best Internet service of any park in NM.

Not a likely situation.

We compromise. I charge him the amount that makes him wince and then I deliver the best Internet I can for that price. Technology is constantly changing though. Five years ago, I delivered 500kb/s service for $200/mo. Now I deliver 7Mb/s service for $350/mo. Later this year, when we finish the backbone upgrade, his service level will increase again.

Remember that "Unlimited" doesn't mean as much as you want at the full speed. "Unlimited" just means they won't shut you off. They may slow you down to give other users a chance at the bandwidth.

Note that this park has full time RV spots. I do have customers in that park that purchase separate Internet from me so they don't have to suffer along with everyone else because the RV owners decisions.

uncle_bob 04-15-2019 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ephraim (Post 2230884)
@uncle_bob

As part of my "regular" job, I provide the wireless Internet at an RV site. I can tell you that there are multiple problems which is why almost all RV parks stink for camp WiFi.

1) Most RV parts are not in the middle of an Urban area with access to fiber. I actually have to wirelessly connect this park through 4 towers. The closest fiber drop is over 35 miles away. Yes, I can provide 1Gb/s service to the park, but the cost would be sky high.

1a) I have to buy the 1Gb/s service at a commercial rate (~$1000/month). It's that high, because the park would use the full 1Gb/s 24/7 if they could so the company has to guarantee full bandwidth 24/7

1b) Each tower costs ~$60,000 (because three of them are solar powered). I can resell bandwidth off of them to other customers (i do) but any bandwidth guaranteed to the RV park is lost to me for resale.

1a) Because the towers are solar powered and in high wind areas, they require frequent maintenance. ~ 1/3 of a full time tech which costs me ~90,000/yr after pay and benefits are factored in so you're looking at ~30,000/yr, not including equipment lost to lightning or 75 mph gusty winds.

1c) Don't forget these are towers so I have to have qualified personnel and insurance to cover that. Insurance count tower work as "high risk". I pay alot for insurance.

2) RV park owners tend to be cheap. They forget that they are out in the boonies. This one is willing to pay me $350/mo for his Internet. He has almost 45 full time spots and about 25 overnight spots.

3) The RV park owner doesn't want to suffer the same problems that the campers do so he has me devot half of the bandwidth to his office and his house.

4) The rest of the park splits 4Mb/s between all of the campers. Remember that a Netfix movie on an HD TV requires about 5Mb/s

It would cost me almost $6000/mo to deliver 1Gb/s guaranteed service to him and that is before I figure ANY profit for me into the situation. I don't do this out of the kindness of my heart. I have to eat too.

Lets say if he paid me $7000/mo, he'd have the best Internet service of any park in NM.

Not a likely situation.

We compromise. I charge him the amount that makes him wince and then I deliver the best Internet I can for that price. Technology is constantly changing though. Five years ago, I delivered 500kb/s service for $200/mo. Now I deliver 7Mb/s service for $350/mo. Later this year, when we finish the backbone upgrade, his service level will increase again.

Remember that "Unlimited" doesn't mean as much as you want at the full speed. "Unlimited" just means they won't shut you off. They may slow you down to give other users a chance at the bandwidth.

Note that this park has full time RV spots. I do have customers in that park that purchase separate Internet from me so they don't have to suffer along with everyone else because the RV owners decisions.

Hi

Actually it's worse than that. If you dig into the WiFi 6 propaganda, they now are starting to talk about the way WiFi handles a large group of "customers". It's not pretty. Think of going back to the end of one big long line every time you blink ....

If each of those campsites has a dozen or so devices at it. Your 40 site campground is trying to handle around 500 data "customers" My guess is that a dozen is a low number these days. WiFi just was not designed to handle that sort of crowd. Having all 500 spend 10 ms "in line" ... hmmm .... that's 5 seconds between data service events ..... yikes .... Even split 4 ways it still is far to long for decent service.

Again take a look at the WiFi 6 propaganda to see why even a device that uses next to no data still gets in line every time.

Just for reference, we are old folks without much interest in computer stuff :) ... we are well over the "dozen" number when we pull in. I spent time counting it up when I could not find enough USB charge outlets.

Bob

Froglips 04-15-2019 07:23 AM

I am in a very unusual situation. Part of the year, my Airstream becomes an auxiliary residence on my horse farm. We rent out the main house and live in the AS from January through April. There is wifi on the farm but the signal is too weak to penetrate the AS. The repeater works well enough to watch streaming TV.

Ephraim 04-15-2019 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob (Post 2231151)
Hi

Actually it's worse than that. If you dig into the WiFi 6 propaganda, they now are starting to talk about the way WiFi handles a large group of "customers". It's not pretty. Think of going back to the end of one big long line every time you blink ....

Bob

Bob,

We currently see that issue, but there are ways to mitigate it. Taking queues from how cell phone coverage works, we use a mesh system inside the park. It's like having mini-towers and if you walk a couple spaces over, you switch towers. It requires a person with some wireless knowledge to set it up and the first thing you do is turn the power down to minimum on each node. Rather than having 5000 clients on a single node, we can bring it down to a very reasonable and manageable number.

Sadly, most RV parks don't hire knowledgeable IT people. They just buy the most powerful router they can find and put it in the center of the park. When we started to supply this park, we had them put in a 20' metal pole every 4 spaces. The entire park is covered with only 6 poles. He's got a good foundation with the mesh system, he just won't give it the bandwidth that it needs.

By the way, nothing is free. While the mesh system mitigates the situation you are talking about, it adds latency to the connection. The larger the mesh, the more difficult skyping becomes.

Our biggest issue is that we have to supply Internet on the 2.4GHz band because that's what the vast majority of devices expect, but at any one time, there are about 350 rogue SSID in the park. Every hotspot, every vehicle, every trailer, every satellite system seems to provide their own SSID which really clutters things up. Ideally, we would provide only 5.8GHz and each trailer would link into that and provide a local 2.4GHz signal for their own stuff... But that's like herding cats.

turk123 04-15-2019 09:01 AM

We were in a park in Ft. Meyers Florida and they attempted to do an excellent job with the internet. They had a mesh system and about 5 - 6 poles with equipment. It was a bit hodge-podge, but it worked.

I got to know the gentleman who was running the system. What he explained to me was disheartening. Not only where residences using the internet for small businesses, but they were also "gaming" the system and stealing bandwidth. I had an attack the first day I was there that ask for my Mac address. He also monitored for PlayStation and Xbox (prohibited in the park for online gaming) and would kill their access when he discovered it.

He also warded off attacks from "outside the fence" with people setting up stations to steal as much bandwidth as they can from him. He said it is a constant battle to keep what they had for their guests.

The internet there was fast enough to stream most of the time. He spent a lot of time keeping it this way. I can see why most RV parks just give up and provide very little.

UnConnected 05-04-2019 04:02 PM

Airstream UnConnected
 
After spending $150K on a 2019 30nclassic, it has spent more time in the dealer service bay than on the road. The Smart Control worked for 2 weeks then has not worked since.

Airstream nor their dealer can fix it, and at one time, they told me to take the trailer to ATT and let them fix it!

Airstream chose ATT as their partner and buyers have no choice of service provider.

Airstream needs to own this problem, fix it and stop telling owners they are trying to figure this out!

Buyers beware.....

uncle_bob 05-05-2019 07:09 AM

Hi

Well I can tell you that AT&T as a service provider ( = cell signals ) does a pretty good job. It's very rare to find a location they don't cover. At least that's been our experience in the last few years of camping. That said, if the cell phone says "no service" you aren't going to stream movies tonight .... So first step, every time we pull in is *still* to check the number of bars on the cell phone. Trust but verify .... :)

That said, the WiFi side of any of these gizmos - just forget about getting it to hook to anything. Other than parked in the drive at home (when I can hit the home WiFi anyway), zero use. My suggestion there would be to shut down as much of that side of the gizmo as you can.

Bob

Froglips 05-06-2019 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnConnected (Post 2237945)
After spending $150K on a 2019 30nclassic, it has spent more time in the dealer service bay than on the road. The Smart Control worked for 2 weeks then has not worked since.

Airstream nor their dealer can fix it, and at one time, they told me to take the trailer to ATT and let them fix it!

Airstream chose ATT as their partner and buyers have no choice of a service provider.

Airstream needs to own this problem, fix it and stop telling owners they are trying to figure this out!

Buyers beware.....

I will echo Uncle Bob on this one. ATT as a service provider is quite good. This is an AS problem. That said, it appears that this is a first generation, early adopter issue (did you know you are an early adopter?). Based on all my reading in the forum, it appears that AS's hardware choice, the PEP Link, was a poor one. The real solution would be to replace the current router/modem/cell link with a newer generation. I don't know how many Classic 30s they have sold but probably enough to give some bean counter pause at implementing this solution. BTW, my system works fine both on cell and WiFi with the addition of an external router. Turk123 gets all the credit for this $49 solution.

It sounds like you have a similar issue to mine, just a lousy AS dealer. Unfortunately, complaints to AS about your dealer will fall on deaf ears. As you have a new Classic 30, as do I, you should consider looking for another dealer within reasonable driving distance. I have found that driving one time two hours each way to drop my AS off for service at a competent dealer instead of a 30-minute drive to a Three Stooges adventure is much more efficient than four trips to get a single problem fixed (typical for my purchase dealer).

UnConnected 05-06-2019 07:01 AM

AT & T and Airstream Connect
 
Thanks Bob, et all:

BUT, perhaps I mislead: all issues with the Airstream router are with good ATT signals, on my iphone, ipad and laptop. And, with moving the Classic 30 to many other locations.

For some unknown reason, the unit worked fine, then stopped and has never worked since.

AirStream is baffled, seams easy for Airstream to ship replacement unit and make needed corrections.....but they have yet to resolve this.

Hope this gets resolved soon!

turk123 05-06-2019 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnConnected (Post 2238493)
Thanks Bob, et all:

BUT, perhaps I mislead: all issues with the Airstream router are with good ATT signals, on my iphone, ipad and laptop. And, with moving the Classic 30 to many other locations.

For some unknown reason, the unit worked fine, then stopped and has never worked since.

AirStream is baffled, seems easy for Airstream to ship replacement unit and make needed corrections.....but they have yet to resolve this.

Hope this gets resolved soon!

It sounds like a complete failure of the equipment. Did the dealer have the Peplink out to look at? Are all four antenna leads attached and tightened on the back? Did they re-download the firmware to the Peplink?

Did you try plugging your laptop into the available Ethernet port on the Peplink to see if you can get internet? This would bypass the wifi radio in the Peplink.

Did the dealer try replacing the Peplink?

If it worked for a short time and stopped, something failed.

One more thing, did you signup with ATT and get an account? The dealer cannot do this for you. The trailer comes with one hour of service for the dealer to test and show the customer how it works. It expires after one hour of use. This particular event has happened to some customers. The customer uses WiFi for a few days and it quits. Find out later that dealer did not show you how to sign up with ATT.

Just some thoughts.

AirstreamInc 05-06-2019 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnConnected (Post 2237945)
After spending $150K on a 2019 30nclassic, it has spent more time in the dealer service bay than on the road. The Smart Control worked for 2 weeks then has not worked since.

Airstream nor their dealer can fix it, and at one time, they told me to take the trailer to ATT and let them fix it!

Airstream chose ATT as their partner and buyers have no choice of service provider.

Airstream needs to own this problem, fix it and stop telling owners they are trying to figure this out!

Buyers beware.....

Hi UnConnected,

We're very sorry to learn about the issue you are having. Please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team. We look forward to helping you get this resolved.

Thank you.*

Froglips 05-07-2019 05:59 AM

Unconnected,
There is some confusion on your side. AT&T does not own nor is responsible for any of the equipment in your AS. While AT&T could be part of the problem in your case (somehow your logon has become corrupted, etc.), it is important to realize that your PepLink modem is just a cell phone in a box. If you have your cell phone inside the trailer and it is getting reception then AT&T is doing most of its job. This is clearly a hardware problem and Airstream's responsibility.

UnConnected 05-07-2019 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirstreamInc (Post 2238587)
Hi UnConnected,

We're very sorry to learn about the issue you are having. Please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team. We look forward to helping you get this resolved.

Thank you.*

Glad AirStream monitor's their customer frustrations!
Yes, i have been on the phone with Air Stream, Kyle Kindle is very nice and wants to help - but Kyle says all AirStream "stuff" works, must be something else.

Dealer is left in the dark, trying to assist, but without any luck.

THINKING, that AirStream would just ship a modem, have the dealer install and let's call this a day - but AirSteam thinks that is just too complicated!

AirStream: take ownership of this issue, I am NOT the only unit out there with problems.

UnConnected 05-07-2019 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Froglips (Post 2238859)
Unconnected,
There is some confusion on your side. AT&T does not own nor is responsible for any of the equipment in your AS. While AT&T could be part of the problem in your case (somehow your logon has become corrupted, etc.), it is important to realize that your PepLink modem is just a cell phone in a box. If you have your cell phone inside the trailer and it is getting reception then AT&T is doing most of its job. This is clearly a hardware problem and Airstream's responsibility.

Thanks for your assist.
One point lost in this issue, is a reminder that AIRSTREAM chose THEIR PARTNER, as AT&T. Airstream should own this issue, get with AT&T, resolve it with a recall, etc....
Airstream is loosing customers over this simple issue!

uncle_bob 05-08-2019 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnConnected (Post 2238879)
Thanks for your assist.
One point lost in this issue, is a reminder that AIRSTREAM chose THEIR PARTNER, as AT&T. Airstream should own this issue, get with AT&T, resolve it with a recall, etc....
Airstream is loosing customers over this simple issue!

Hi

Wait a second here. AT&T no more made the modem in the Airstream than they made an iPhone. When the screen on your iPhone cracks, you take it back to Apple. AT&T (or Verizon) is *not* going to fix that broken screen. Same thing here, what's broke needs to be fixed by the folks that made it (Peplink).

Bob

UncleBad 05-11-2019 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob (Post 2239276)
Hi

Wait a second here. AT&T no more made the modem in the Airstream than they made an iPhone. When the screen on your iPhone cracks, you take it back to Apple. AT&T (or Verizon) is *not* going to fix that broken screen. Same thing here, what's broke needs to be fixed by the folks that made it (Peplink).

Bob

Bob, I don't think UnConnected is saying that AT&T owns the issue. The statement was that Airstream should "own this issue, get with AT&T, resolve it with a recall..."

But in actuality Airstream needs to continue to work with Peplink, who provides the cellular modem that uses an AT&T sim to talk to the AT&T network for connectivity.

I am traveling west to east this week. Airstream Connected has been functional but I think a Airstream should consider offering either AT&T or Verizon.

In my experience AT&T works best out East and Verizon works best in the West.

Heck - take it a step further - TWO sims, one AT&T and the other Verizon!

turk123 05-11-2019 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleBad (Post 2240317)

In my experience, AT&T works best out East and Verizon works best in the West.

Heck - take it a step further - TWO sims, one AT&T and the other Verizon!

The Peplink BR1 Mini supports two sims and auto switching. Technically you could have two providers and choose the stronger of the two or when one plan is used up for the month, you could switch to the other plan.

That is how users that need solid internet for their traveling business have done it for several years.

Too bad we cannot get into the Peplink's user interface.

Ephraim 05-11-2019 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turk123 (Post 2240357)
Too bad we cannot get into the Peplink's user interface.

You can, you just lose access to the airstream app apparently. You can reset the Peplink to factory defaults and assume full control over it.

I may be in that situation right now, though I haven't touched the Peplink. If I'm on a local WiFi connection to the trailers system, I can access all of the features just fine. The moment I'm on a remote connection (like from home or if I turn WiFi off while at the trailer), the location information works, but it tells me the trailer is offline (even when it is powered).

Airstream had me call AT&T because they said they can see it just fine. AT&T said their part was working fine. They want me to remove the app and reinstall. I'll do that today, but I don't see how that is the problem. All of my phones are experiencing the same issue.

turk123 05-11-2019 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ephraim (Post 2240396)
You can, you just lose access to the airstream app apparently. You can reset the Peplink to factory defaults and assume full control over it.

I may be in that situation right now, though I haven't touched the Peplink. If I'm on a local WiFi connection to the trailers system, I can access all of the features just fine. The moment I'm on a remote connection (like from home or if I turn WiFi off while at the trailer), the location information works, but it tells me the trailer is offline (even when it is powered).

Airstream had me call AT&T because they said they can see it just fine. AT&T said their part was working fine. They want me to remove the app and reinstall. I'll do that today, but I don't see how that is the problem. All of my phones are experiencing the same issue.

It's a bug. After leaving your trailer after using the software, the next time you use the software it tries to get the information locally again. Close the app, hit your airplane mode or shut off wifi, then turn on airplane mode and open the app. It should work. I see this all the time after I leave the trailer.

Ephraim 05-11-2019 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turk123 (Post 2240427)
It's a bug. After leaving your trailer after using the software, the next time you use the software it tries to get the information locally again. Close the app, hit your airplane mode or shut off wifi, then turn on airplane mode and open the app. It should work. I see this all the time after I leave the trailer.

That didn't work. Removing the app and re-installing didn't work either. I'm going to have to call Airstream again on Monday.

uncle_bob 05-12-2019 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleBad (Post 2240317)
Bob, I don't think UnConnected is saying that AT&T owns the issue. The statement was that Airstream should "own this issue, get with AT&T, resolve it with a recall..."

But in actuality Airstream needs to continue to work with Peplink, who provides the cellular modem that uses an AT&T sim to talk to the AT&T network for connectivity.

I am traveling west to east this week. Airstream Connected has been functional but I think a Airstream should consider offering either AT&T or Verizon.

In my experience AT&T works best out East and Verizon works best in the West.

Heck - take it a step further - TWO sims, one AT&T and the other Verizon!

Hi

The phrase used was:

" ... get with AT&T, resolve it with a recall, etc ....."

Indeed that *is* saying that AT&T is part of the fix.

Bob

UncleBad 05-13-2019 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob (Post 2240613)
Hi



The phrase used was:



" ... get with AT&T, resolve it with a recall, etc ....."



Indeed that *is* saying that AT&T is part of the fix.



Bob



My point was “own” vs “involved”. Agree they are part of the fix.... but Airstream should own the issue.

ajwbarnard 05-15-2019 07:17 PM

So I have read through the posts about the internet connectivity issues. And I have similar problems. Although, I have done some streaming of video from the tv at least once.

I just want to be sure I have the steps necessary to get it working with the wireless router work around.

1. You have to call AS to turn off the WAN over WiFi. (This is the whole point for me. Campground wifi is useless!) Just call Customer Service or do you have to get to someone specific?

2. Then you buy a wireless router that you plug into the Ethernet port on the existing Peplink. Is there any way to buy an incompatible router? Models are always changing. Is there specifications to be aware of?

3. You have follow the directions to get it power from inside the wall from the preflight post with the pictures. This is the most intimidating aspect of the whole thing. Hopefully, the pictures will do the trick. Any specific tools necessary for the wiring aspect besides the screwdriver that gets you into the area?

4. You configure the new router to provide WiFi within the trailer with the increased speed and device connectivity.

5. If for some reason you want campground WiFi, you merely direct you device to the alternative WiFi.

Does this summary the steps or have I missed something?

I need some extended time at the trailer to make this work and my school vacation doesn’t start for another month and a half! Until then our unlimited Verizon plan probably won’t be overtaxed with just being there on the weekends.

Thanks for all the help. Speaker and subwoofers will come after internet connectivity and shower leak!

Amy

turk123 05-16-2019 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajwbarnard (Post 2241852)
So I have read through the posts about the internet connectivity issues. And I have similar problems. Although, I have done some streaming of video from the tv at least once.

I just want to be sure I have the steps necessary to get it working with the wireless router work around.

1. You have to call AS to turn off the WAN over WiFi. (This is the whole point for me. Campground wifi is useless!) Just call Customer Service or do you have to get to someone specific?

2. Then you buy a wireless router that you plug into the Ethernet port on the existing Peplink. Is there any way to buy an incompatible router? Models are always changing. Is there specifications to be aware of?

3. You have follow the directions to get it power from inside the wall from the preflight post with the pictures. This is the most intimidating aspect of the whole thing. Hopefully, the pictures will do the trick. Any specific tools necessary for the wiring aspect besides the screwdriver that gets you into the area?

4. You configure the new router to provide WiFi within the trailer with the increased speed and device connectivity.

5. If for some reason you want campground WiFi, you merely direct you device to the alternative WiFi.

Does this summary the steps or have I missed something?

I need some extended time at the trailer to make this work and my school vacation doesn’t start for another month and a half! Until then our unlimited Verizon plan probably won’t be overtaxed with just being there on the weekends.

Thanks for all the help. Speaker and subwoofers will come after internet connectivity and shower leak!

Amy

1. Just call customer service and request the change.

2. You need to get a dual band router. 2.4 ghz and 5 ghz. Also, make sure the transformer that comes with it is 12v.

3. Just a screw driver. You will also want a 5 A fuse.

4. Yes. You want to pay attention to the dual band aspects. The 5 ghz band will double your speed. Label it Air5 so you know which WiFi to log into.

5. Yep! That is correct. Just use your phone or Ipad to log into the wifi provided by the campground. It probably wont work, but you can try! : )

Make sure you are logging into your second router (air5) and not the "airestream XXXX" sidd

turk123 05-16-2019 12:39 AM

I once again want everyone to know that Airstream's solution is very solid, but is missing the final component, 5ghz. It also has a problem with the WiFi as WAN that is inherent with the Peplink modem. It will slow you down 10x.

Shut off the WiFi as Wan by calling Airstream customer support and buy yourself a dual-band router to plug into the available port on the Peplink.

It's not rocket science, just good practice to improve the faults of the Peplink modem.

Airstream's equipment is very solid. It amazes me how well it can pull in an ATT tower from so far away. Forget Weboost! It can't hold a candle to this system and its unlimited data without throttling. I am still amazed e every time we move with the connectivity I have. The hardware is very solid. It just needs a few tweaks to get the most out of it.

Froglips 05-16-2019 04:39 AM

turk123 is really the expert on this. He debugged much of the AS / PepLink issue through sheer perseverance. Sorry if you know all this below.

You should purchase two plug-in female crimp connectors. When you get the side panel open and see all the electronics, you will see the 12v fuse bus panel. Three of the buses do not have fuses but are powered. Plug in a 5 amp 12v fuse into one of the empty buses. The bus will supply 12v positive. Cut the 12v power supply off the new router. Crimp the connectors on to the wires. Plug the positive connector on to the bus and the negative onto a group of male plugs that just looks like they are fastened to the electrical board. This is the 12v negative connection Voila, the new router is powered.

Caveats: Twelve volts has polarity, unlike AC. it matters which side plugs into 12v positive. The wall wart you are cutting off changes 120v AC into 12v DC. The wires from the wall wart have a "tracer" (marking, usually a dashed white line on one of the black wires) to mark which side is positive. Unfortunately, this is not standardized and the tracer might be on the negative wire. Use a voltmeter to determine the polarity coming out of the wall wart then match that using the tracer to the proper polarity going into your new router. Be careful to purchase a router with a 12v power supply or just purchase the TP-Link 1200 that turk123 uses, available on Amazon.

ksteve06 05-16-2019 07:22 AM

Smart App and Router WiFi Network Issues
 
3 Attachment(s)
We did ours a little different but it works for us. We have a 2017 Classic so there is no speaker where my peplink[ATTACH][/ATTACH][ATTACH]is mounted, so we chose to buy a mini power strip since our blue ray player and peplink were using the plug and just plugged in the wireless router. Now we can only use the wireless router if we are plugged in to electric, but most of our camping is at full hook up sites so it’s not a big deal to us. When we are not plugged in I can still access the peplink through 12v. We also bought a Netgear AC1200 router at Walmart site we were out camping when we installed it and it works great. We stream HBO go, Netflix Amazon Prime, etc, with no problems.

ajwbarnard 05-17-2019 07:32 PM

I had AS on the phone today to disable my WAN over camp WiFi. But they couldn’t do it because it was not connected. It is not showing connected from the app. How do you resolve that and why isn’t it connected?

turk123 05-17-2019 08:04 PM

Did you sign up with att?

UncleBad 05-17-2019 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turk123 (Post 2241924)
I once again want everyone to know that Airstream's solution is very solid, but is missing the final component, 5ghz. It also has a problem with the WiFi as WAN that is inherent with the Peplink modem. It will slow you down 10x.

Shut off the WiFi as Wan by calling Airstream customer support and buy yourself a dual-band router to plug into the available port on the Peplink.

It's not rocket science, just good practice to improve the faults of the Peplink modem.

Airstream's equipment is very solid. It amazes me how well it can pull in an ATT tower from so far away. Forget Weboost! It can't hold a candle to this system and its unlimited data without throttling. I am still amazed e every time we move with the connectivity I have. The hardware is very solid. It just needs a few tweaks to get the most out of it.

I second this. I purchased Airstream Connected so that I could work from the Airstream. I require email, webex audio and video meetings and the DW likes to stream DirectTV in the bedroom while I work.

I worked this entire week from the Jellystone campground in St. Louis and Airstream Connected was rock solid. Not one issue with connectivity.

Yeah - they need to fix their router issues, but those issues can be overcome and it is hard to beat the $360 a year AT&T data plan.

Next - Austin, Tx for a week then on to North Carolina. We intend to put Airstream Connected to work!

ajwbarnard 05-18-2019 04:27 AM

Smart App and Router WiFi Network Issues
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by turk123 (Post 2242479)
Did you sign up with att?



It has been working in the past. I have streamed video, used the remote app to turn off lights etc. I had taken a picture of the app saying to vehicle was not connected, but lost the post. But then I went in and flipped the switch on the app to prioritize cellular data and now all appears to be functioning again. Why is that? I am getting about 10 mbps on a Speedtest up and down on the AS WiFi. Was it disconnected because it was trying to connect over the campground WiFi which only minimally works? BTW I am getting about 16 mbps on Verizon LTE, but my plan will throttle when towers are busy. This sometimes happens on summer weekends.

Ephraim 05-18-2019 03:11 PM

1 Attachment(s)
My remote app has not been functioning so I spent some time at the trailer today to troubleshoot the problem and I found a couple of interesting things.

1) removing the app and re-installing it did nothing. Same problem before and after.

2) unpairing and re-pairing the phone fixed it, but opened a whole new interesting set of things.

2a) When I re-paired the phone, it immediately started working.

2b) Unlike the first time I paired (in which the AT&T was not activated), this time, the app asked if I wanted to connect to the WiFi. I almost didn't since I have an additional WiFi installed, but thought, why not. This was the iPhone (SE) that refused to connect to the trailer WiFi before. This time it linked right up and asked if I wanted to copy the password to the clipboard. The only things I know have changed is that the AT&T is activated already and I believe a new version of the app was pushed out last week or so.

2c) I immediately tried to do a speed test since I was on the trailer WiFi and was surprised. Before, I could only get 8Mb/s or so. This time, I was getting 30Mb/s. (down and up)

2d) I went back to my own WiFi and only saw ~20Mb/s. Back to the AS WiFi and it jumped up to 30Mb/s again.

Since it was working, I started opening drawers, cabinets and storage spaces just to start finding where things were. I was appalled at much of what I found. I understand the need for a little extra cable in the wiring harness. It's always better have have a bit to much than a bit to little. You can always cut it shorter. Making it longer is harder. But 6 feet of cable? In many areas, the cabling was coiled multiple times and just laid on the floor or the shelf it was in. This is a picture of under the Dinette seat (next to the fridge) and I'm pretty sure that bare metal bus bar is at 12V. I didn't have my voltmeter with me, so I'm not sure, but the leads going to it say "power". Notice that it is just laying there with tons of extra cable around it. Shouldn't it be fastened to the floor? The NEMA2000 bus right next to it is screwed to the floor and there is nothing exposed on it.

Also, the water pump is just laying on the floor too. Which explains why it is so noisy when it runs.

Every panel I opened up was just like this. A rats nest of wires that would be a nightmare to trace out. perhaps all the extra cable is so you can pull the assembly out into the aisle to work on it rather than crawling into the cabinet.

By the way, I am going to mount a Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW50 right in this place since that looped cord is the shore power for the trailer. That also means I can mount the display for it right next to the Alde display.

ajwbarnard 05-18-2019 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ephraim (Post 2242664)
My remote app has not been functioning so I spent some time at the trailer today to troubleshoot the problem and I found a couple of interesting things.

1) removing the app and re-installing it did nothing. Same problem before and after.

2) unpairing and re-pairing the phone fixed it, but opened a whole new interesting set of things.

2a) When I re-paired the phone, it immediately started working.

2b) Unlike the first time I paired (in which the AT&T was not activated), this time, the app asked if I wanted to connect to the WiFi. I almost didn't since I have an additional WiFi installed, but thought, why not. This was the iPhone (SE) that refused to connect to the trailer WiFi before. This time it linked right up and asked if I wanted to copy the password to the clipboard. The only things I know have changed is that the AT&T is activated already and I believe a new version of the app was pushed out last week or so.

2c) I immediately tried to do a speed test since I was on the trailer WiFi and was surprised. Before, I could only get 8Mb/s or so. This time, I was getting 30Mb/s. (down and up)

2d) I went back to my own WiFi and only saw ~20Mb/s. Back to the AS WiFi and it jumped up to 30Mb/s again.

Since it was working, I started opening drawers, cabinets and storage spaces just to start finding where things were. I was appalled at much of what I found. I understand the need for a little extra cable in the wiring harness. It's always better have have a bit to much than a bit to little. You can always cut it shorter. Making it longer is harder. But 6 feet of cable? In many areas, the cabling was coiled multiple times and just laid on the floor or the shelf it was in. This is a picture of under the Dinette seat (next to the fridge) and I'm pretty sure that bare metal bus bar is at 12V. I didn't have my voltmeter with me, so I'm not sure, but the leads going to it say "power". Notice that it is just laying there with tons of extra cable around it. Shouldn't it be fastened to the floor? The NEMA2000 bus right next to it is screwed to the floor and there is nothing exposed on it.

Also, the water pump is just laying on the floor too. Which explains why it is so noisy when it runs.

Every panel I opened up was just like this. A rats nest of wires that would be a nightmare to trace out. perhaps all the extra cable is so you can pull the assembly out into the aisle to work on it rather than crawling into the cabinet.

By the way, I am going to mount a Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW50 right in this place since that looped cord is the shore power for the trailer. That also means I can mount the display for it right next to the Alde display.



So you are thinking unpairing and re-pairing had something to do with your increased speeds? Or do you think it was coincidental? I am functioning now on the WiFi, but getting more like what you were getting before 6-10 mbps.

Ephraim 05-18-2019 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajwbarnard (Post 2242673)
So you are thinking unpairing and re-pairing had something to do with your increased speeds? Or do you think it was coincidental? I am functioning now on the WiFi, but getting more like what you were getting before 6-10 mbps.

Oh yeah, I forgot to add....

3) In the process of tracing out where/what is there, I discovered that the factory had no antenna connected to the back of the peplink for the WiFi. The installed antenna has two 2.4/5GHz MIMO connections, but they were both just laying there. I connected one of them up to the Peplink. You might check that.

Froglips 05-19-2019 06:08 AM

Yea, welcome o the brave new world in Airstream quality. I posted a picture a couple months ago that looked disturbingly like yours. I went under my dinette's rear seat in search of the cable for my satellite after calling AS to inquire where it was. I had frankly expected to find it tucked up where the DVD player was installled as that made odd sense to me. Imagine my surprise when AS replied that the cable "usually" fell down in the wall behind the TV. Usually???? In what world is that acceptable?

ldavids 05-21-2019 02:08 PM

Has anyone tried moving the AT&T SIM to an AT&T or unlocked hotspot to test as a backup?

Brandon T. 08-14-2019 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Froglips (Post 2242802)
Yea, welcome o the brave new world in Airstream quality. I posted a picture a couple months ago that looked disturbingly like yours. I went under my dinette's rear seat in search of the cable for my satellite after calling AS to inquire where it was. I had frankly expected to find it tucked up where the DVD player was installled as that made odd sense to me. Imagine my surprise when AS replied that the cable "usually" fell down in the wall behind the TV. Usually???? In what world is that acceptable?

I had work done on my car audio by the #1 dealer/installer in town who also happens to be a competition judge. Spent about $3000 on it.
The work they did was exceptional and every installer who had a hand in it made everything nice and tidy. If ANY installer had done the work Airstream did and left it that way for a customer they would be fired. Period. It's what you do when nobody is looking or you don't think they will look(in cabinets) is when it really shows your work ethic.
This rats nest is just a head shaker. It looks like a a 3rd grade science competition for that slop. They should hire their local audio shop to see what it really means to do beautiful work.

Soready 11-07-2019 02:53 PM

The Smart app has been working perfectly until today. Checked status an all monitored items they are working with the exception of the the "Shore Power" which shows in am not connected. Upon checking the unit there is in fact power going to the unit via shore power, any thoughts?

ajwbarnard 11-08-2019 04:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soready (Post 2305899)
The Smart app has been working perfectly until today. Checked status an all monitored items they are working with the exception of the the "Shore Power" which shows in am not connected. Upon checking the unit there is in fact power going to the unit via shore power, any thoughts?



I have the same problem and then the smart app would show us the monitoring, but stopped responding to commands. We scheduled a spring appointment at JC. I don’t think mine ever thought it was connected to shore power.

kittmaster 11-08-2019 05:11 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ephraim (Post 2242691)
Oh yeah, I forgot to add....

3) In the process of tracing out where/what is there, I discovered that the factory had no antenna connected to the back of the peplink for the WiFi. The installed antenna has two 2.4/5GHz MIMO connections, but they were both just laying there. I connected one of them up to the Peplink. You might check that.

Here is how mine was wired from my dealer. Was told it is correct and I get between 20-25Mbps without the 2nd router.

Hopefully yours matches.

EDIT: The image resizer here is terrible, click on the image to make it bigger and then right click and save the image to your desktop and you can zoom in deep to see which color wires where. The image size should be 1600x1200.

Presitla99 11-08-2019 08:13 AM

I have the same issue and the dealer checked with the mother ship and was told it is not supposed to work. Strange answer but unimportant since I know when I am connected by looking at the microwave clock. Please advise if you get a solution. For me its not worth a 150 mile roundtrip to the dealer.

Soready 11-08-2019 08:49 AM

Agreed that its not all that important. I got use to checking unit status occasionally as we are a short distance form storage and I could confirm we were maintaining the charge on the batteries. Can still see battery voltage on the app so still good. My personality means it will drive me nuts until I figure it out, tormented I know!!!!!

Soready 11-08-2019 02:05 PM

2 Attachment(s)
So I believe I may have solved the issue for our TT. The initial issue I was experiencing was tripping the GFCI outlet in my storage building. Researching it appears that the relay in the factory inverter was causing the GFCI to read a fault and trip the circuit. My solution was to flip the circuit breaker on the distribution panel off and that solved the problem. That is when I noticed the Smart app was no longer showing the "Shore Power" connected. I then decided to unplug the inverter and turn the circuit back on at the distribution panel. GFCI didn't trip and the Smart app no shows "Shore Power" connected. Haven't had time to trace wiring and see how the circuit is wired. We have only owned the trailer for 4 weeks so we are still trying to learn all the systems and how they interact. Not sure this helps anyone but thought I would post.

Ephraim 11-08-2019 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soready (Post 2306172)
So I believe I may have solved the issue for our TT. The initial issue I was experiencing was tripping the GFCI outlet in my storage building. Researching it appears that the relay in the factory inverter was causing the GFCI to read a fault and trip the circuit. My solution was to flip the circuit breaker on the distribution panel off and that solved the problem. That is when I noticed the Smart app was no longer showing the "Shore Power" connected. I then decided to unplug the inverter and turn the circuit back on at the distribution panel. GFCI didn't trip and the Smart app no shows "Shore Power" connected. I haven't had time to trace wiring and see how the circuit is wired. We have only owned the trailer for 4 weeks so we are still trying to learn all the systems and how they interact. Not sure this helps anyone but thought I would post.

I don't know how savvy you are with 120V AC stuff, but the sensor for the CZone is located in the electrical box below the breakers. If you open the box, you can route a different breaker wire through the sensor if you choose (like the breaker that serves the microwave instead of the inverter.)

Soready 11-08-2019 03:12 PM

Thanks for the idea. Question though, when I had the breaker off the battery level dropped to 12.59 and when I returned the breaker back to on battery voltage went back up to 13.7. Not sure if the circuit is powering the charger. If so I would want to leave it on to maintain batteries through the winter.

uncle_bob 11-09-2019 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soready (Post 2306186)
...... If so I would want to leave it on to maintain batteries through the winter.

Hi

Better to fully disconnect the batteries and not have the trailer powered up over the winter. That assumes you are storing somewhere that checking on things / fixing stuff on a daily basis wold be a problem.

Bob


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