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steinVT 06-30-2018 06:11 AM

The Frame work continues
 
5 Attachment(s)
I have finished up 95% of the welding on the frame. Looks pretty good and seems very strong. I seem to spend a lot of time building fixtures. First the gantries to aide pulling the shell and now a rotisserie to spin the frame. I am an OK welder, but would much rather weld horizontal than vertical or inverted. The rotisserie allows me to do that.

The welds have been turning out good.
Attachment 315528

Here’s one end of the rotisserie, made from more scrape lumber and part of engine stand. I allowed the engine stand to pivot so that I can attach it to the frame at an angle. I use the bucket on my tractor to lift the frame so I can only lift one side at a time.
Attachment 315529

Using the rotating feature of the engine stand then allows me to spin the frame to make any weld horizontal.

The other side was similar except it just had a slot for to accept a steel extension I fabricated to attach to the trailer ball.
Attachment 315530

This is what I used to attach to the frame. The one on the top is part of the engine stand. The bottom one uses a 2” ball and then clamps around the A-frame.
Attachment 315531

Any time I was welding, I always used my tractor as a safety backup. If I were to do this again, (doubtful but never say never), I think I would build the rotisserie out of steel and use something like a truck jack on both ends to raise it up or down.
Attachment 315532

Mark

islandtrader 06-30-2018 08:03 AM

Now you know why the second one will be easier ...haha

I just love the put it on take it off...repeat....put it on take it off.:lol:

steinVT 07-12-2018 08:44 PM

Finishing up the Frame
 
7 Attachment(s)
I continue to work on the chassis, but by the time I'm done for the evening, I'm too tired to post. So this will cover a lot of ground.

Welding is done, now just finishing up the myriad of little design/build tasks that come along with some changes to the design.

To mount the axle I welded 3" angle iron to the main frame rails. The part that was bolted to the axle had an additional 2" plate added. These were 1/4" thick and extended to the rear enough so they can be used as hard points to jack up the trailer.
Attachment 316723

Next we needed to add shock mounts. These were fabricated and welded to the chassis. The originals mounted to a stud welded to the main rail.
Attachment 316721
Attachment 316722

The step was falling out when we got the trailer. Application of a BFH and a bit of welding rod, it now works as good as new. Cleaned up pretty well to.
Attachment 316724

Since I decided to go with the 50 degree coupler angle instead of the 40 degree, I was able to fabricate a hidden spare tire mount under the floor between the rails. Thanks to Colin Hyde for suggesting this.
Attachment 316725
Attachment 316726

You also might have noticed we also managed to paint the chassis. We didn't use POR-15 but instead Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black. I can't tell the difference between the two. It is an extremely tough finish and looks good too.

Next I managed to cut out the flooring. I almost went with pressure treated, but decided I didn't want to add all those chemicals to our semi-sealed space. The original floor that came out was not much of a template although it helped to draw the radii of the corners.
Attachment 316731

Whew.

HiHoAgRV 07-13-2018 08:03 AM

Now is the perfect time to epoxy coat the ply. I use RAKA, cheaper than West but widely accepted in the wooden boat community.
Great looking work!

dbj216 07-13-2018 07:14 PM

Whew is right! I imagine you do get quite tired.

You've made a lot of progress and now have a new frame for your 56 Airstream. Many Airstreams have a spare tire mounted like you did. It is a great place for it, although it does leave a sizable cavity under the front floor that isn't insulated well. I haven't decided what to do with this spare tire well on my 75 yet.

I wonder if the Eastman coating is easier to apply than POR 15. Did you brush it on or spray, and how did it go?

David

steinVT 07-15-2018 05:04 AM

David, we put the Eastwood Chassis Black on with a brush. It went on very thin, a quart almost did the whole chassis. I bought a second quart which I am using to apply second coat and maybe a third where it will contact the belly pan.

Regarding the tire well, my plan is to build a aluminum box to protect the floor and frame from the elements and there should be enough room to have a layer of Prodex insulation under the floor.

Regarding insulating the rest of the floor, I think I am going to back to my original thought and glue and screw 1" foam directly to the plywood. 2" foam seems like overkill with all of that single pane glass and aluminum ribs creating a direct conduction path. Anyone think that's a bad idea?

HiHoAgRV, I thought about epoxy, but ended up using Olympic WaterGuard, Clear Waterproofer. I liked the way it soaked into the plywood and the way water just beads up on the surface. I plan on dribbling more WaterGuard on all the penetrations for the elevator bolts and edge bolts. I think that may be the principle path for water to get into the plies.

For the flooring we are planning on putting down Marmoleum sheet goods.

After the floor is secured and leveled, what would you guys think about laying the Marmoleaum so it even was under the C-channel? Seems like it would be a great barrier to water and would be so easy to install.

Mark

steinVT 07-15-2018 05:45 AM

Fender Wells
 
3 Attachment(s)
Another project that was kind of a PIA, but now is done was repairing the outer fender wells. They were in pretty good shape except the side pieces that attach to the outriggers were 90% gone. I also didn't like the way the inboard attachment was to the plywood with wood screws.
Attachment 316978

What I did was to cut off the rust, paint everything with silver Rustoleum, add a galvanized section to extend the fender about an inch beyond the top of the outrigger and add a piece of 3/4" galvanized angle iron to be bolted to the outrigger. I used stainless steel rivets and bucked all the pieces together and then sprayed the interior with truck bed liner. Should be good for another 60 years or so.
Attachment 316975
Attachment 316976

I also welded a one inch plate to the frame for the inboard rail to rest on which will use bolts and locking nuts instead of screws.

dbj216 07-17-2018 06:54 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I have used foam board for under subfloor insulation on the 86 and the 66. It does not absorb moisture and is pretty good insulation. I did use 4" in the 86 and 2" in the 66. It does cost more, and takes considerably more time to install than the fiberglass insulation. Worth it to me as it gets dang cold in Minnesota.

I do think I will use the fiberglass insulation in my 75 project because we now live in Colorado where moisture isn't an issue really and the temps are more moderate. And my trailers are stored inside out of the weather.

David

HiHoAgRV 07-17-2018 06:59 PM

I have used 1" foam in the belly and spaced it 1" off the floor to prevent water from ever touching the wood. I also taped every seam so I also got the insulating factor of an air gap. Dunno if it makes any difference but it was the way I wanted to do it.

islandtrader 07-18-2018 06:20 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV (Post 2130146)
I have used 1" foam in the belly and spaced it 1" off the floor to prevent water from ever touching the wood. I also taped every seam so I also got the insulating factor of an air gap. Dunno if it makes any difference but it was the way I wanted to do it.

I guess we are all on the same mind set...:lol:

Attachment 317357

steinVT 07-18-2018 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV (Post 2130146)
I have used 1" foam in the belly and spaced it 1" off the floor to prevent water from ever touching the wood.

I like the idea of a space. How did you hold it in place? I was thinking construction adhesive and a couple of fender washers and wood screws. Also, what type of tape did you use? Thanks.

I guess great minds think alike.
Mark

HiHoAgRV 07-19-2018 09:22 AM

Our yet to be named, '56 Safari
 
I cut foam into 2" wide strips for the spacers. Starting off with adhesive (that quickly failed) I switched to spot taping it into place. Then I used fender washers and wood screws thru the foam and (foam) spacers. Sealing was done with aluminum duct tape, the kind you peel off the back to expose the most tenacious adhesive known to mankind.
Then only places I attached foam directly to the wood was in the corners. The '50's and '60's trailers don't have much space between the belly pan and the floor in those spots.

steinVT 08-09-2018 08:06 PM

Frame Status
 
9 Attachment(s)
Once again I have been negligent in posting my progress. Luckily my job is somewhat flexible so I have been able to apply some hours.

As of right now, all of the welding is done, the floor and insulation installed, C-channel installed and two thirds of the belly pans installed. Hoping to finish up the belly pan tomorrow, flip it and reconnect the shell next week.

Like any project, it really is just a collection of smaller projects. So here are some of those projects (for the record)

Added fish scales to both sides of the two butt joints in the frame. I was worried about these joints, but not any more.
Attachment 319421

I ran the trailer brake wires thru rubber grommets in holes drilled in the cross frame members. Liked the idea of using an extension cord for raw material. Fairly cheap and with a new end, the left over cord works just fine. The connections are at the wheel and not buried in the frame.
Attachment 319422

Here is some of the router work I used to provide clearance around the fender wells.
Attachment 319423

This is a piece of aluminum used to close off the floor from the steps cavity
Attachment 319424

All of the elevator bolts were double nutted with the final nut installed with blue locktite.
Attachment 319425

Here is an aluminum box I built to seal off the spare tire compartment from the rest of the under body.
Attachment 319426

I was able to reuse about half of the C-channel. The rest I had fabricated by the guys I buy my aluminum from. Hard to beat an 8' shear and 8' brake. I think it was about $50 for 24 feet. The yellow under the bolt heads is mil-surplus zinc-chromate primer. This should prevent or at least slow the galvanic corrosion. Not sure who's beer that was.:innocent:
Attachment 319428

So I used everyone's ideas regarding insulation. I ended up with an inch air gap and then two inches of foam board. I used 1" pink foam to act as a spacers and to seal the outer edges. Held it all together with construction adhesive and fender washers and wood screws. The corners were just the 1" pink board. It took only three sheets of the 2" foam and half a sheet of the 1".
Attachment 319431Attachment 319432

Bubba L 08-09-2018 08:40 PM

Mark, everything is well thought out and really looking good. I wish I would have layed the Marmoleum out on the chassis and cut to fit before I dropped the shell. Rolling and unrolling over the wheel wells to check the fit from the pattern was a pain. Also, Marmoleum has a tendency to kink when I rolled over objects. Kinks tend to create a crack in the Marmoleum surface. Just a thought. Good luck and keep up the good work. Bubba

steinVT 08-10-2018 04:09 AM

Marmoleum Template
 
Bubba, I bought a roll of construction paper, the stuff contractors roll out to protect the floor when working. It has come in very handy when making full size templates for the belly pan. I plan to make a full size template of the floor as soon as I flip it over.

I had even briefly thought about installing the marmoleum to the floor even before the C channel went on, but then decided there was no way to really protect it for the rest of the process. Seemed like a good way to completely seal the top surface.

OTRA15 08-10-2018 04:26 AM

Sorry if an earlier post answers this, but is the floor standard plywood like AC? Wondering if you waterproofed the ply incl butt joints before assembly?

Thanks,

Peter

islandtrader 08-10-2018 07:28 AM

Nice Job...
 
2 Attachment(s)
Looking good...I wish I would of thought of the closing off the steps like you did.

I did my closing off after the fact..and yours is much cleaner. But hey it is done...:lol:

Attachment 319460

Attachment 319461

Mollysdad 08-10-2018 08:25 AM

Wow! That's craftsmanship! Anybody would be proud to own that!

A minor comment on your spare tire storage. Did you see the post where someone discovered that a blown tire and rim could slip out of the Airstream hanger? It did horrible to damage to the underside.
Yours may be safe, I can't tell if a empty rim could get out.

steinVT 08-11-2018 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad (Post 2140990)
Wow! That's craftsmanship! Anybody would be proud to own that!

A minor comment on your spare tire storage. Did you see the post where someone discovered that a blown tire and rim could slip out of the Airstream hanger? It did horrible to damage to the underside.
Yours may be safe, I can't tell if a empty rim could get out.

Thanks for the kind words.

I have not seen that post. I can see that it would make a hell of a mess. The clearances are such that if the tire is at least on the rim, I don't think it could get out. But I will check.

Thanks,
Mark

steinVT 08-11-2018 03:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTRA15 (Post 2140930)
Sorry if an earlier post answers this, but is the floor standard plywood like AC? Wondering if you waterproofed the ply incl butt joints before assembly?

Thanks,

Peter

Hi Peter. It is standard AC plywood. I came close to buying treated, but decided I didn't want to introduce all of those chemicals into such a closed environment. Of course then we treated it with chemicals.:huh:

We first put on a couple of coats of Olympic Water Proofer with special attention to the edges. We then supplemented that with a coat of clear polyurethane.

We did cover the complete sheets and not just the outer 6 inches, mainly to protect it during construction. Any water that has gotten under the tarp I have it covered with just beads up. We will be covering it with Marmoleum which will make it water proof from the top.
Mark


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