ProPride 1000 or 1400 - help me pick
 

I like everything about the ProPride hitch so I've decided to pull the trigger.

I've exchanged emails with Sean and he's recommended the 1400. My current Airstream is my 4th Airstream in over 30 years of trailering so I've seen my share of popped rivets and damage caused by rough roads. My current hitch is a Resse Dual Cam with 800 pound bars and the ride for me and the trailer isn't bad.

My tow vehicle is a Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel and handles my 30' Classic with ease.

I'd like to hear from ProPride users with similar combinations, which bars you have and your experience with ride and any other information to pass.

Thanks in advance

Mike

I can't help with your questions but am curious also.

I have a 2007 23' International. Sean recommended 1000 pound bars, and it tows just fine with them when I crank in enough tension to keep the front end of my TV on the ground. If I'm porpoising, it needs a little more...probably because I'm loaded above the AS and TV bed weight I initially set up with. I made sure Sean knew exactly what my rig was...at the time I had a cab-height cap on the Tacoma, and that was one of the things he needed to know about before he made his recommendation.

Keep in mind the WD jacks in the standard ProPride system are infinitely adjustable to fine-tune the ride. Remember that tire inflation pressure both TV and AS will have a strong effect on ride all around, and if at all possible. you should run the loaded rig across CAT scales to get a better idea of axle weights. That will give you insight into correct tire pressure as well. Search the forums for "CAT Scale" for relevant threads...

Best way to be sure is put a tongue weight scale under the ball when the AS is fully loaded for camping, before you install a ProPride. From my conversations with Sean, he knows what he is talking about when he makes his bar recommendation....mine is spot on.

More info needed.
How much in bed?
What is front/rear weight bias?

A TARE weight, and another with truck loaded for travel. Full fuel.

Trailer TW also helpful.

Set TV tire pressure according to actual Load.

Sean is likely right.

But for understanding, nothing else will beat working with a scale.

.

I had a couple numbers already but went to the scale today for an update.

My truck weighs 9040 (full fuel and all my usual travel stuff)

Airstream weighs 8140 (Propane/water full-other tanks empty. Maybe add
another 200 lbs for stuff when I travel. I travel light)

Hitch weight 811 (The Airstream spec for '05 Classic tongue weight is
690 so I'm a little up there)

Truck and trailer total weight 17180

A consideration also is the receiver shaft size on the stinger. The “standard” you get if you don’t ask is 2”. If your TV has a 2.5” receiver, be sure to ask for it to be switched on your order.

I love the ProPride and Sean is a great guide.

Hi Mike. I have a 27FB and Chevy 2500. Sean recommended the 1400 for me but I went with the 1000 (because I know better than the manufacturer [emoji15]). Actual tongue weight loaded for camping was 980# and I was afraid of popping rivets as you describe. I ended up swapping them for 1400# bars as he originally recommended. Had the work done at Colonial in NJ who also adjusted the hitch from the less than stellar job done by my original dealer (no longer in business). World of difference. No popped rivets or open cabinets, etc.

Good luck!

I have the 2.5" version and after some light grinding it was a perfect fit for the receiver. But it is heavy - I think Sean says it's 55# (don't quote me there) but you can feel it. I'm sure the 2" is lighter but not sure by how much. I don't know if anyone has a 2.5" receiver and is using a 2" ProPride w/reducer sleeve - would be interesting to hear of that experience.

We have a ProPride hitch with 1400 lb bars, 31 foot Classic and tow with an F250 - finished our fourth season with this setup. No popped rivets that we have seen (traveled > 6000 miles this year). Usually, we don't see much shifting of items in the trailer.

Gross weights don't mean too much.

TARE means "empty" (only driver plus full fuel and permanent gear aboard). This is the lightest the truck sees in your service. Baseline number. It's necessary

Then, the 3-pass method. (This isolates true TW). In all, one needs Axle weights. Full fuel in all cases. Full fresh water and propane on trailer.

Fine tuning a hitch needs TV tire pressure done first. According to Load. There'll be a set of numbers for solo, and for towing. Tested. Too high is wrong.

Then, "how much" you have to crank the WD tells about bar choice.

Again, one is using axle weights to "see" both TW and effect of WD (It's pretty much Steer Axle loading).

Were you to wonder if the other set of bars would have been "better".

And this way gives you a good comp with others where the two vehicles are the same.

It's also a comp for the vehicle hitch receiver. How much force is needed gauged by amount applied to reach an Axle value. If the other guy needs less, examination and/or replacement of the receiver is in order.

Etc

Details apply to each of the above. Search and read up. Or ask. Have to clear the water for a quality picture.

Get the CAT Scale phone app, too.

Some time at the scale is then a permanent reference thru the years of ownership.

.

Our Experience...
 

Hensley with 1000lb bars.> Burb 2500> 2003 25' Classic fully loaded>
GCVW. 15980lb

TW...1200lb un-hitched.
Receiver WT...1920lb no WD.
TW with WD set...840lb
Wt transferred to FA.....660lb
Wt transferred to AS axles....160lb

POI...started with 1400lb bars with the OEM receiver. Poor ride caused by having to use excessive WD to transfer enough weight.

Switched to a Reese tow beast, needed less WD because of the increased moment arm of the longer mount flanges.
(added benefit...no cracking, better welds)


BTW....

Mike, are you fly'n the tanker or the fighter?

VMGR-152 Semper-fi



Bob
:flowers:

I use the 1400 with my Classic and it works great.

Thanks Robert. I appreciate the information.

I found out too late that the Air Force age limit for pilot training was 26 1/2. I was Boom Operator for 27 years....23 years and 5000 hours in the KC-135 and 4 years and 1000 hours in the KC-10.

Thanks to all for the great information!
 

You all gave me exactly what I was seeking!

THANKS FOR RESPONDING!

I have the same setup, only a 17 ram...I like my Reese and wouldn't change, had a Hensley with 04 30' classic...I will stick with my Reese...

I have a 2015 Ram 2500 with Cummins and tow a 27' FC FB. Have 1400lb bars and 2.5" hitch bar. The 2.5" hitch bar is a perfect fit in my received with no play at all. I have an Equalizer hitch when we had a 23" AS and they didn't have an option for a 2.5" hitch bar and there was a lot of play with the sleeve.

Make sure you get an accurate measurement of the receiver's height on your Ram for Sean so you have enough drop in the stinger. The Ram's receiver seems to be higher than other makes.

I love the ProPride and wouldn't go back not the Equalizer type WD/anti-sway hitch systems.

3P1400 for sure
 

Mike:

If I going to be refueled over the desert by you- I am going to do what you say!!! Take Sean's advice.

You are buying the product from the manufacturer-take his advice!!! I have been to his manufacturing site and bought the product-go with the 1400.

Ric Peterson

Ric,

What size "currently looking" do you toe. ;)

Bob
:flowers:

I use a 1400 with my 30' FC, works like a dream.

OOOH! Nice job! I was ground bound in the R.C.A.F.
Yer makin' me jealous!