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-   -   Spring in Air, Debris on New Vulkem (https://www.airforums.com/forums/f456/spring-in-air-debris-on-new-vulkem-103326.html)

eljay 04-09-2013 05:38 AM

Spring in Air, Debris on New Vulkem
 
I got ambitious and sealed the front seams and a couple of windows this weekend. Beautiful days to work but breezy. The trees also chose this time to release their catkins and spring debris. My newly applied sealant caught a bunch of everything that was in the wind. :( any idea how to remove the debris without damaging the sealant?

Thanks in advance for any advice that may be offered. :)

Minno 04-09-2013 08:09 AM

I would think any solvent that would dissolve the sealant enough to allow it to release the stuff caught in it would compromise the overall seal. I had kinda the same thing happen, but it was metal shavings from drilling out rivets that got stuck in my fresh vulkum and not catkins. I bit the bullet and cut the debris out, and then resealed.

I've use spray carb cleaner to remove old vulkum and to clean up new vulkum. Maybe if you're careful it'll work to remove the debris without damaging the integrity of the seal. You could test it on a small area and see how it works.

Chris

batman 04-09-2013 08:54 AM

Same here. I have aluminum drill shavings. If your "Vulkum" / "TemPro 6??" is still uncured you can use Mineral Spirits to clean off the TemPro and re-apply. However I would try letting it cure out and scrape or pick the debris from the surface. It will not effect the seal.

perryg114 04-09-2013 09:03 AM

Gumout on a paper towel will let you wipe off the top layer. I would try something less severe like a tooth brush first. Gumout is also good for cleaning up areas that have caulk on them that you don't want it on.

By Gumout, I mean the original formula carb cleaner.

Perry

eljay 04-09-2013 11:30 AM

Ok Great! I wasn't looking forward to removing all and redoing. I tend to be fairly generous in my application technique so may have enough on surface that it won't interfere with seal BUT was concerned that contact with any type of solvent might leach in. The areas are mostly cured now. Will let you know.

Thanks for the advice.

perryg114 04-09-2013 11:48 AM

Typically small gaps are filled with something like Parbond.

Perry

eljay 04-09-2013 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by perryg114 (Post 1283822)
Typically small gaps are filled with something like Parbond.

Perry

Well there's small gaps and then there are gaps that are quite a bit bigger that lead into small gaps. Do vulkem and Parbond mix or do they create a dissimilar chemical condition creating yet another leak?

You can fault my technique, but not my enthusiasm and desire to make a long lasting seal.

perryg114 04-09-2013 04:01 PM

I have put vulkem over Parbond before. You would want Vulkem to be a wider bead than the parbond so it can touch bare metal. The only place I would double up would some place like a roof vents flange. The Parbond would fill the gap where the frame meets the roof and the Trempro-635 would cover than and the rivet heads. Parbond can dry out and crack, especially on the roof where it gets lots of UV from the sun. It is good for around window frames because it wicks in. At the top of the window frames I will sometimes put a layer of Parbond and then a Layer of Trempro-635 over the top of that to protect it from the UV and seal the frame and the drip edge flange above the window. This is just the way I do it. Others have their methods.

Perry

eljay 04-09-2013 04:21 PM

My trailer seams look thick but I have good coverage. Right now though they look like the birds are trying to build nests with scads of debris...

I will try Parbond for windows. I haven't done so well with the Trempro there.

perryg114 04-10-2013 07:59 AM

Sealing is not a one time deal. It is something you have revisit every few years. This means removing the old material down to bare metal and then resealing. If you have gobs of Vulkem-Trempro whatever it takes a long time to clean up. Most of the time, rivets and lap joints don't leak. A rivet that will leak is one that is loose. I usually put some Parbond around the head and call it good. Rivets around the door area of the skin and the door frame a places where you find loose rivets. Any panels that have been replaced of damaged could have loose rivets. Anything with a pop type rivet instead of a buck rivet can leak. Loose rivets are ones you can move and usually get your fingernail under.

What most of us hate to find on an old trailer with many layers of caulk over caulk. This can cause corrosion from water trapped under the layers and sometimes still leaks and is a god awful mess to clean up.

Perry

Minno 04-11-2013 07:04 AM

Just think of your seams as "old man eyebrows", you know, kinda bushy! It'll probably wear off after a few rains and not be so noticable. You are probably noticing it more than anyone else would, anyway.
I'd like to have that problem right now! We're getting 10 inches of snow today...

Kay


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