Our 1957-58 Overlander

[57Vintage]

Truck - good to hear from you again. Assume you're all settled in GA. How's the project doing?

[dbj216]

Nice job on both the HVAC and stove cover. Both are better than what Airstream originally used.

David

[truckasaurus]

Originally Posted by 57Vintage

Truck - good to hear from you again. Assume you're all settled in GA. How's the project doing?

Hi Harold
It’s been a long road to getting settled as we chose to build a house but we’re there now 🙂 next up is a parking area for the trailer so we can move it to the house. Then it’ll be the usual time and money deal to get her on track again. Reading everyone else’s progress is always motivational

[57Vintage]

I've been following a thread here on Solar, trying to expand my knowledge base.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ll-181608.html

A couple weeks ago they got into a discussion on power consumption and I got to wondering about my appliances. I'd done a crude test of the frig in perfect conditions (sunny days - great solar gain on the panels) while traveling, to see if the solar array was up to the task.

Now I thought it best to understand the consumption side, since perfect conditions don't exist in the Pacific NW for most months. To that end I starting researching test equipment to see what was available. I chose to try a Poonie N2000 monitor. It works on 120 Volt circuits by plugging the unit into a receptacle (it has a short extension cord if it won't fit directly on the receptacle) and plugging the appliance into the monitor. It will display running and elapsed data, so for my purposes it's sufficient.



Hopefully, those of you with more electrical experience/theory can help adjust my process if I missed something.

The exterior factors were as follows:

Trailer sitting in the open on shore power.

Typical fall day: high in the low 60s, down in the high 40s at night, overcast in the mornings. partly sunny afternoon.
Furnace on in the trailer: During the day set to 70 F, turned down to 64 from 9PM to 9AM

Frig: It's the original Kreftt frig that was converted with an Isotherm conversion kit, model 2501. This has the rectangular evaporator and is rated for up to 7 cubic feet. The compressor and controller sit above the frig in the storage area.



It's an all electrical unit (12/120 V). The frig controller defaults to 120V when available. (Keep in mind the controller output is 12V to the compressor.) I have it on a 120V circuit that is direct from shore power so we aren't using the inverter/batteries. It runs on a separate 12V circuit that I use when traveling/boondocking. I left the original insulation in the frig itself and replaced the door insulation with rock wool. The outside of the frig has rigid foil backed insulation between the frig and cabinet. One inch on the sides and top. Two inches on the bottom.

The frig is running on 120V. The switch is set to 6 (range 1-7).

The frig was empty for the test, so I assume it may be more efficient under normal use.

Thermometer just a cheap one made for use in a frig.



Here are the results:



Using less than a Kw was good in my book, but under high temps in the summer its bound to go up significantly. Have to retest next summer.

Thoughts on method??

[57Vintage]

I decided to go with the tankless heater as I wanted to keep propane use to a minimum. At least that's my theory. One drawback is the extra water wasted getting hot water to the faucet/tub. Due to equipment size (furnace & water heater) I had to optimize furnace placement (middle of the trailer) and place the water heater under the street side of the banquette. With a rear bath that's a lot of water to waste.

So I added a 'return' line to the hot water side.



It runs from the tub shutoff valve (farthest hot water feed) to a separate shutoff valve and on to the front fresh water tank. (The front FW tank feeds the 2nd FW tank under the kitchen, which feeds the FW pump.)



This valve has an extended shaft so I can mount the valve in the sink cab down by the water lines and place the handle above behind the kitchen sink.



The upper mount for the handle is just a threaded sleeve. It just happens that by drilling a 9/16ths hole in the counter with a forstner bit, the bore is smooth enough to cut threads with the sleeve. (The sleeve isn't long enough to reach through the countertop and place the nut on below.)



I mounted the valve by the kitchen sink with the idea that needing hot water in the kitchen happens more often than in the bathroom. After all we are 'roughing it' so I can wash my hands with cold water. I can always add a second valve in the bathroom if needed.

The only down side I see is if I'm on city water and the FW tanks are full. But, it will allow me to fill the FW tanks when getting ready to leave. I'll be adding a diverter valve so I can route water back to the water heater to solve that issue.

[dbj216]

Excellent idea. We have that problem in the house. Running, wasting a lot of water waiting for hot water to arrive on the second story. It was worse with a tankless water heater, and not a bad with an old fashioned tank type water heater. My brother solved the problem with a hot water recirculation pump and valves in the upstairs bathroom that provide "instant" hot water.

It looks like it wasn't a 5 minute job.

David

[57Vintage]

I finally finished up building the panels to close off the areas behind the banquette chair backs to the walls. As I mentioned earlier when the banquette was first completed I wanted some of the filler panels to be removable where there were wider gaps to use as vertical storage. Mainly at the front corners and along the street side. The banquette itself was offset towards the curb side to allow clearance for the water heater, furnace duct work and plumbing lines under the street side.





The removable panels are made primarily from .024 aluminum sheet. There are 2 on the street side that are rectangular and are made from bending .024 into a reverse Z that rests on the top of the seat back and a 3/4X1/2" aluminum angle that is riveted to the wall (backward L, short side sticking out). This shape places the 'shelf' an inch below the top of the seat back.



The two corner panels are a little more complicated. .024 is used for the flat portion. A 1X1" .062 aluminum angle is bent to follow the seat back and attaches to the flat .024 sheet (other side is vertical going up). Short pieces of the same aluminum angel are attached to that vertical side and rest on top of the seat back In other words the two angle pieces create a backwards Z. These 2 panel shelves are also rest an inch below the top of the seat backs. The same aluminum 3/4X1/2" angle is riveted to the wall to support the outer edges of these panels.

The area underneath the front window is quite narrow and is stationary, bolted to the seat back. The 2 areas of the seat back that curve up for the higher backrest are also stationary and are bucked to the seat back frame. The curb side area is also quite narrow so that is also bucked to the seat back frames (the straight seat back by the door and back portion of the curved seat back).

Once the weather turns in Spring this all comes out so I can paint/clear everything. Mainly to keep the aluminum from leaving stains on the upholstery.

Since these panels are so close to the bottom of the side and front windows, I have waited to build the window frames and attach permanent curtain hangers. Another punch list item.

[goransons]

Remarkable fabrication work Harold (as usual!!)

[57Vintage]

Previously I posted about adding the return line on the hot water to save water when using hot water because of the delay in getting hot water from a tankless heater. I ran the line back to the front FW tank, and was planning to add a diverter valve so I can also route back to the water heater. Finally got the diverter valve in.



The valve is a Camco Permanent Pump Converter Winterizing valve. I chose it because its compact, all three fittings are 1/2" MNPT and I had the FNPT Propex fittings.

https://www.campingworld.com/pump-co...gaAs0JEALw_wcB

[57Vintage]

Finished another item on the punch list. When we first settled on a banquette one of the main advantages was having the seating beyond the table for the wife to knit. Along with that she wanted to have a way to elevate her legs, hence the ottoman was born. We decided on the size and had the cushion made when the banquette cushions were done. (It's the same color as the banquette cushions, but I guess the flash washed it out.) It also allows another person to sit at the table if needed.



It attaches to the banquette by sliding the pins into holes drilled in the front edge of the banquette. The pins were made from a square ubolt cut in half and the end reshaped to lower the ottoman to the height of the banquette cushion.



The legs are bolted to locking hinges that have a release lever.



The base was made from 2X1" aluminum channel with mitered corners that I tig welded. Reliefs were cut to clear the hinges when folded.

[wcronin4]

Harold

Just read through your thread. We share the shell off experience! Big job.

I am most impressed with the quality of the work you and your bride are doing. Beautiful! I really appreciate the help you’ve provided along the way.

[57Vintage]

Thanks for the kind words. I've been following your build and I think the only difference between us is I started a few years before you. Nice work on your end also. Glad I don't half to contend with your heat and humidity.

More than glad to help in any way I can. Take care

[knowmercy]

I really like the aluminum sheet metal work in your front bench. I tried to skim through your entire thread and you've done a great job through everything. Shell off restoration is a massive undertaking and the engineering to improve the systems so the rig goes another 50 years takes a lot of time. Again, great job! p.s. love the colors!

[57Vintage]

Thanks

Taken time off to get the yard ready for spring. Will be back on the punch list soon. Had to get a new compressor for air system so I can disassemble the banquette and get it painted. The down side of aluminum is it tends to leave marks on the fabric if it isn't coated. Most of it I'll just clear, but the edges that are visible will get the teal color.

Take care, stay safe.

[kidjedi]

Popping in to say "hi" after discovering you on another thread talking about the banquette. I'm very interested in the aluminum framing (and hadn't even thought about aluminum sheet for the panels). Looks like I'm going to have to start looking at a Shrinker/Stretcher and other gadgets you've mentioned. I had already planning on starting to practice welding aluminum, but now I have to (get to!) add even more goodies!


Thanks so much for posting all the details of what you've done!

[57Vintage]

Thanks for the kind words. Hope you'll keep me informed as you progress. Kind in mind you only need the shrinker & stretcher is you want curved pieces. If you square if off or just have angles it will eliminate some complexity.

[kidjedi]

Originally Posted by 57Vintage

Thanks for the kind words. Hope you'll keep me informed as you progress. Kind in mind you only need the shrinker & stretcher is you want curved pieces. If you square if off or just have angles it will eliminate some complexity.

It's an Airstream. Of course there will be curves!

[57Vintage]

Decided I needed a break from yard work and got another item done on the punch list. Finished building a storage box for the sewer hoses. I went with the cam lock system from Lippert. I like the cam locks and the smooth interior of the hoses when extended.

I made the box out of aluminum square tubing. I had considered using round, but the higher cost and complexity of mounting two round tubes led me to use square. Tabs welded to the lower tube bolt to the frame rails.



The tubes are 4X4" and the end cap is 6X6" turned sideways. I cut the end cap in two added a hinge to create the door. The discharge head sets in upside down.



After the main hose is pulled out, you can access the extension hose.



The coupler for the extension hose is not real small so I couldn't leave it attached to the extension hose. The housing would have been wider than the width of the bumper.



So I just made a box out of more 6X6" tube and I'll store it in the outside compartment.



Hopefully our cool nights will end soon and I can get back to painting more interior pieces.

[dbj216]

Most sewer hoses don't get such lavish accommodations. Very nifty bumper box. I certainly like the cam locks and didn't know they were available. I figured the whole RV industry was bayonet twist locks. And don't get me started on the connections of hose to dump station pipe. I have a flat rock that does pretty well.

Cam locks are positive. That's what the truck uses that comes to pump out our septic tank uses. As the side of their truck says: "29,000 pounds of really gross weight".

David

[wcronin4]

Nice job Harold, as with every you do. I have the same problem with Faith, where to put the stinky hose. I would love to rip off your idea, but my dumpvalves are in the way.

Again, nice work.