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albert · 08-03-2016, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

SO I have all of the 12v and the 110v wires going to their homes, but Im not sure what next... I'm really itching to get the insulation in (pun intended) and the skins back in. BUT, I think I may be skipping some steps, maybe 100 steps. Can anyone enlighten me of where to go from here?

I'm worried about the placement for the outlets, lights, switches, etc. Im thinking I should drag the old skins in and lean them against the wall and mark which existing holes I will reuse and which I need to patch over.

Also, for those wondering about the rats nest... Im planning to put two batteries up front under side window, also the inverter, 12v box there. The fresh water tank under the front window, center, the water pump under front left window near kitchen area, the hot H2O tank in rear next to the old battery hatch on the curb side. The 110V breaker box will go in a cabinet next to fridge which is next to the door.

65CV · 08-03-2016, 04:10 PM

Placing the panels is probably a good idea. You do know about clecos, right? I used post-it-notes to mark everything -- then filmed and narrated it before removing the skins.

See post 85 of my thread for my rough outlet/light/etc placement diagram.

If you search the big box store websites for load centers, you'll see what I'm calling a Sub Panel. (guess I'm old school

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

SO I have all of the 12v and the 110v wires going to their homes, but Im not sure what next... I'm really itching to get the insulation in (pun intended) and the skins back in. BUT, I think I may be skipping some steps, maybe 100 steps. Can anyone enlighten me of where to go from here?

I'm worried about the placement for the outlets, lights, switches, etc. Im thinking I should drag the old skins in and lean them against the wall and mark which existing holes I will reuse and which I need to patch over.

albert · 08-03-2016, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 65CV

Placing the panels is probably a good idea. You do know about clecos, right? I used post-it-notes to mark everything -- then filmed and narrated it before removing the skins.

See post 85 of my thread for my rough outlet/light/etc placement diagram.

If you search the big box store websites for load centers, you'll see what I'm calling a Sub Panel. (guess I'm old school

Thanks for that advise, I think I will bring the old skins in and Cleco them to mark the placement of the outlets, lights, etc. I am also thinking I will have to go with OLD construction gang boxes, since in 1957 they didnt use boxes at all, and therefore the outlets are placed nowhere near a wall stud. Do you see any issue doing that? Then I could just hang the skins up and rivet on the new "old construction" gang boxes and join the wire.

thanks again.

albert · 08-03-2016, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

Thanks for that advise, I think I will bring the old skins in and Cleco them to mark the placement of the outlets, lights, etc. I am also thinking I will have to go with OLD construction gang boxes, since in 1957 they didnt use boxes at all, and therefore the outlets are placed nowhere near a wall stud. Do you see any issue doing that? Then I could just hang the skins up and rivet on the new "old construction" gang boxes and join the wire.

thanks again.

So Breaker Box, another term for load center, yes?

65CV · 08-05-2016, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

So Breaker Box, another term for load center, yes?

Yes.

Boxes? Be sure to get the shallow depth version like this. If you're near a stud and the skins aren't on yet, you can use this.

truckasaurus · 08-05-2016, 08:12 AM

Man that Overlander is just the best looking Airstream. :-)

albert · 08-05-2016, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

Man that Overlander is just the best looking Airstream. :-)

Agreed!

albert · 08-08-2016, 01:37 PM

Can anyone advise on what I may use to install the pink stuff? I'm sure it will be OK where there are wires holding it up and where the space is tight so I can jam it in there... but the spaces where there is nothing holding it up or perhaps when it gets above vertical. I read that some apply the insulation to the endcaps and then place it on the frame.
Any tips would be helpful, Thank You!

albert · 08-09-2016, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

Can anyone advise on what I may use to install the pink stuff? I'm sure it will be OK where there are wires holding it up and where the space is tight so I can jam it in there... but the spaces where there is nothing holding it up or perhaps when it gets above vertical. I read that some apply the insulation to the endcaps and then place it on the frame.
Any tips would be helpful, Thank You!

OK, thanks crickets!

Almost there, BUT I still know what will hold the pink up when I apply it to the roof... any tips? I used some Super77 on some of the panels where it curved up, but dont feel it will hold when completely upside down...

truckasaurus · 08-09-2016, 08:48 PM

IIRC I just used spray cans of undercoating when I did the Overlander. From your pics it looks like you have weirdly thick pink insulation going on there, maybe that's making it harder?

albert · 08-09-2016, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

IIRC I just used spray cans of undercoating when I did the Overlander. From your pics it looks like you have weirdly thick pink insulation going on there, maybe that's making it harder?

OK, so you used undercoating to get the insulation to stick in a vertical position?

Nope, its just regular R-13 pink stuff. Maybe it appears thick becuse of the 3.5" of pink pressed into the 1.5" of wall cavity... Nothing too thick about it, Im pretty sure.

Cochese · 08-10-2016, 05:28 AM

Insulation should never be smashed to fit, it becomes ineffective when doing that! Good luck

truckasaurus · 08-10-2016, 06:40 AM

Ah, yes, I just sprayed it around probably the same as the super77 you have. I had to cut/ peel apart the insulation to get down to a decent thickness of near 2" thick. As I understand it squishing the full 4" of insulation down by 1/2 will significantly affect the performance, it makes sense but it's not something I'm overly knowledgable about. You would also only need 1/2 the product :-) so cheaper and better, but providing the old adage about only getting 2 out 3 it would of course be slower going in.

albert · 08-10-2016, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cochese

Insulation should never be smashed to fit, it becomes ineffective when doing that! Good luck

I totally understand where you are coming from, yet is there 1 1/2" pink rolls?
Also, what has airstream been using for 70 years?

albert · 08-10-2016, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cochese

Insulation should never be smashed to fit, it becomes ineffective when doing that! Good luck

I guess I could go around and peel off half of the insulation to make it most effective.

65CV · 08-10-2016, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

I guess I could go around and peel off half of the insulation to make it most effective.

Definitely. I don't have the bookmark anymore, but somewhere on this forum is a study done by an engineer on methods of insulation. He took several 1' x 1' panels and compared different insulation methods. I'm nearly positive that his result shows that you don't want more than 1 1/2" of fiberglass. Compressing it becomes very ineffective. (Heat transfer engineers will tell you that you want lots of transitions from air to solid to air to solid to give the best insulation.)

This is the only link I've kept to some of the older, very well done restorations. Hopefully you'll find details in here if you are interested. At the very least, reading some of these threads will explain a TON about redoing your '57.

I used the bubble foil method, so I'm not sure what's best to adhere your fiberglass. I'd try a Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive to hold the insulation while your panels go in. After panel installation, it should stay in place.

Unka Jack · 08-10-2016, 08:53 PM

Roxul has a commercial product called "Acoustic Fire Batt" which is the same product, but comes in a variety of thicknesses in 1/2" increments including 1.5, 2, and 2.5" priced comparatively to the regular batts. That way you don't have to split the regular batts to get the thickness you need.

toastie · 08-19-2016, 06:21 AM

I lot of forum members went with this type of insulation http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix...210757&cj=true

Very easy to work with

toastie

1966Florida · 08-19-2016, 06:56 AM

Love that 57 Overlander!!
Nice job on the polish of the ambasador- Is that Nuvite?

The new trailers all use stranded wire whenever possible- not solid. Moving objects prefer stranded over solid. Even though my '66 is wired with Aluminum Solid Romex. 50+ years and everything still works.
I believe the new codes all call for stranded on RV's.

Pick up a bag of the smallest size tie wraps/zip ties. (Amazon or Harbor Freight). zip tie every 18"- 24"
Use a bottle of electricians soap (Lowes or HD) for pulling wire through tight areas.

Buy a pack of plactic or rubber grommets and always use whenever running wire through a solid object. (Amazon or Elect. Supply Shop)

toastie · 08-19-2016, 07:22 AM

You definetely want to use rubber grommets. Having a wire short out inside the wall is not a good thing. You might consider "McMaster Carr." You can get a bag of 25 for $10 or $11 rather than the unit price at the nearest big box store. While you are shopping, I found a "step drill" to be very useful.