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Old 04-16-2013, 06:09 AM   #81
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2020 27' Globetrotter
1999 25' Safari
Somewhere , Ohio
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Thanks, Robin, for the info, on both the soda blasting and the black sealant. Where are you buying the Rustoleum rubberized sealant? Do you think it would also help with some insulating value, or is it strictly a sealant? (I did read that you were placing it on the seams.) I'm going to be polishing the interior skins, and not painting, so I'm glad to hear yours came out smooth after the soda blasting.

Brazilian Hickory should be beautiful. When we were shopping for flooring for our home, we were told Brazilian Cherry was much harder than American Cherry, so if the same holds true for Brazilian Hickory, you should have a floor which will really hold up well. I love hickory, can't wait to see yours installed.

I am so amazed at how you are moving right along, that's great! I'm hoping you share info on your electrical and plumbing because we're a little stumped there (especially electrical). We're not there yet, but hopefully it won't be long.

Deb
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:52 PM   #82
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things going slowly

Stripping the cabinets for zolatone paint is going slow....many layers of crap paint is coming off slow....1 gal of citrus strip may do it....I like aircraft stripper much better.
Moved inside while the stripper did its thing outside...I applied the rubberized sealant and chassis saver painted the channels and wheel wells. Also did some rivet repair work. All the rub rails replaced over vulcumed panel joints.
Also a picture of the new coupler....replacing the one which caused my tachicardia last week.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:29 PM   #83
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started the windows today

First ....gentily bend up the locking tab on one end of the window hinge. I then spray the hinge line with WD-40 or penetrating oil like "Blaster."

Remove the operating handle from the window frame.

Slide the window out the opened end.

remove all the frame screws and pal nuts. New ones on hand from VTS...along with new glass gasket.

Clean up all the aluminum frame pieces....I use 3M green abrasive pads and electric drill with a wire wheel for bad corrosion.

Clean the glass.

Four windows took me about three hours to get this far.

To be continued tomorrow.
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:22 AM   #84
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nice. I always wondered how you install new rubber for the windows. thanks for posting. ted
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:15 PM   #85
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I didn't realize there was a "locking tab" on the windows, I imagine the guys found this out when working on them though. I think our last window is going back in this weekend.

What is that orangish/pinkish color in your last picture? Have those been treated with the "Blaster"?

The window glass gasket threw the glass company we took ours to for a loop -- they hadn't seen any like that before and were perplexed as to how it went on. I had an idea, but called VTS to make certain. They really do look nice afterward.

Deb
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:19 PM   #86
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I forgot to mention this..............we got a tip from Doug (Shacksman) when he and Terry camped here with us a couple of weeks ago.

He said when he puts his rain guards back on over the windows, and gets to the last couple of rivets, instead of riveting those he uses stainless steel screws so that if he has to remove the window to replace glass or whatever, he can simply unscrew the screws instead of having to remove and replace rivets. I thought this was a great idea!

Deb
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:20 PM   #87
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I worked screens today

Started the day with a trip to my metal supplier....HOT DOG! I got 4 x 8 5052 smooth finish (not mill finish) with protective coating....30$ for a sheet. Am doing the entire interior with aluminum....like newer models.

Home again and I cleaned up the windows and seals. The "orange" colored items you ask about are the steel parts of the windows. I disassemble , wire brush and then prime them with red oxide primer. Then finish with POR silver. I use the same silver on the bumper and the hitch....over the black you asked about.

Tell me what VTS said about the window seals. I cannot equate the pictures of the shrunken seals at the corners of most old Airstreams with the square cut glass windows I have......even with the rounded corners. Which way does the flat side of the seal face....in or out???

Work continues.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:36 PM   #88
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Got PO'd today

Well into replacing the window seals. Got the frames cleaned, replacement glass for one window and began the process.
The seal does, in fact. fit to the frame, not the glass. The 3M 8006, black, does set up fast and is a pain to work with if you apply it around the entire frame.....then try to slip the seal in place. I found that working one side at a time worked best. Extra sealant at the corners and any slop will be trimmed off later.
THEN....i get to the point where it looks like I don't have enough seal for all the windows.....I have a Bubble....you'd expect that the package of seal I bought would be figured to at least do this minimum number of windows....Wrong. I am about 4 1/2 feet short.....now have to buy another full seal order. I believe its a marketing plan.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:28 PM   #89
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Hey Robin, I believe we had some of that seal left over, I'll check, and if you'd pay the shipping, you can have what's left. I'll measure to see how much we have, I know there's some remaining.

This is probably late, but I'm pretty certain VTS said rounded outside, flat towards inside.

So, sounds like you decided not to paint the inside? Are you replacing only the flat sections (not the end caps)? We were planning to strip it all, but then decided to buy new aluminum for the flats and just strip the end caps.

Thanks for the clarification on the red oxide primer, also thanks for the info on the POR silver paint -- I didn't know it came in silver and was wondering what to use for the tongue and bumper.

Deb

PS -- Going out now to measure that window glass seal.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:42 PM   #90
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Deb , I believe the Por-15 is sensitive to UV light and needs to be coated afterwards.
Barry
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:34 PM   #91
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Barry, thanks for that info................even the silver is sensitive to UV?

Robin, I had a thought and wanted to run it by you. Have you heard of "InsulShield Insulation"? We used it in our '36 Ford, and it was really great, never a problem with being too hot inside after that. I thought about using it in the Bubble to insulate with, using the headliner style, on the ceiling and down just a little on the side walls, plus use Prodex up there too; it is rather pricey so that's why I wasn't going to use it for the entire Bubble. Then I'd use the closed cell foam strips and Prodex type insulation for the remainder of the walls. If you're familiar with the InsulShield Insulation, what are your thoughts on using it for an AS? I'm more concerned about whether or not there might be condensation as you would find in a double vapor barrier.

Deb
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:18 AM   #92
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On our last several hot rod builds we've used a product called Dyna-mat. This is true heat reflecting material. I've put it on the firewall and it was 300* in the engine compartment yet on the inside of the firewall it was ambient temp.
It's a bit expensive, but hey, sometimes it's worth it for comfort,
Barry
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:20 AM   #93
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I used Dyna-mat in my Nomad and liked it. Not familiar with the Insulshield...have heard about it but not used it.

The sun sensitive POR is the basic Black. It is to be covered...and the Silver POR does that....it is recommended.

Yes on the interior aluminum. The polished end caps are too much (for me.) The other panels will be a natural color...like in newer Airstreams. Details inside will be Zolatone like the end caps are planned. I have to be careful here and not get it to "segmented"....I want it to tie together visually....not go overboard.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:48 PM   #94
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screens today

Lunch break! It took me all morning on the front screen. I am having some troubles fitting the roller into the groove for screen stretch/locking in place. Finish that and side screens this afternoon. Button it all up and get ready for the polish finish tomorrow. Will be glad to get that crud all off.

I did finish up the windows....except for the one where I ran out of seal.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:21 PM   #95
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Robin. Getting those screens on even with the window frames out is a PITA. I devised a way to make removable screens with aluminum screen frames, standard spline etc. Don't waste too much of that brass screen. If your coming to the restoration academy I'll show you. Otherwise PM me. Ed
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:26 PM   #96
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Shoot you have your own rally goin there. The one on the end needs some help but they look great!
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:58 PM   #97
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OK Ed....I was planning on seeing you there in ABQ. Figure out a nice screen door too.
Robin C
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:05 PM   #98
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Now I want to do another trailer. This is crazy. My girlfriend will leave me if I spend another two years on something other than her.
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:41 PM   #99
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Great. See you there. Should be a good time. Ed
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:29 AM   #100
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windows and frames

I put the new seals in the glass and frames....have not cleaned and trimmed the excess sealant. It was messy and working the corners a bit of a chore with the sealant pre applied.

I made all new interior window frames. To many screw holes from previous owner and MANY coats of crappy paint.

I also made and installed a new rear hatch door.

Am holding off on the screens till I see Eds' screen frame ideas ....in ABQ .

I installed the tail light cans so I could apply sealant inside before the insulation and panels go in.
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