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Old 06-09-2019, 06:12 AM   #161
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Mark, I think youíll find that most people didnít use their ovens. On our Princess stove we use it for pots/pan storage. We have a concealed microwave for a lot of the oven cooking. The top burners will be used.
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Old 06-09-2019, 06:35 PM   #162
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Now you did it. You started another oven / no oven debate. Some folks must have an oven to bake brownies and cookies. I'm one who prefers a microwave to do a lot of cooking jobs. A microwave is the best kitchen gadget in my view. Ya but, it is useless when boondocking. True enough.

I traded the oven for a microwave in my Overlander. I only had room for one of the two.

David
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:41 PM   #163
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I assume you checked the valves, thermostat and connections for leaks. If you find a need to have the valves/thermostat rebuilt there is a company in CA that does this (assuming you can't find someone closer).

http://www.antiquegasstoves.com/pages/rebuild.html

I had them rebuild mine just to be cautious.
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Old 06-10-2019, 04:18 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57Vintage View Post
I assume you checked the valves, thermostat and connections for leaks.
I didn't spray everything and look for bubbles. I did however leave it pressurized with the garage doors shut. I find my nose is a very accurate leak detector.
Mark
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:23 AM   #165
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Thanks for the updates!

FYI the joys of a real gas oven:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f484...ven-28619.html

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Old 06-10-2019, 07:01 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba L View Post
Mark, I think youíll find that most people didnít use their ovens. On our Princess stove we use it for pots/pan storage. We have a concealed microwave for a lot of the oven cooking. The top burners will be used.
My thoughts also...good safe storage..
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:44 PM   #167
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Installing a Fantastic Fan...Twice

I decided to upgrade the forward hatch to a Fantastic Fan. Since I was missing two lifters it wasn't a tough decision, a pretty standard upgrade.

Removed the nice old aluminum flange and replaced it with the new fan unit and the foam gasket. I didn't use the flare head screws but instead used larger flat head SS screws. I put the foam gasket on dry and don't remember reading it needed vulcum.

The neat thing I was able to use the original aluminum trim piece on the inside and actually installed the polished original vent cover over the plastic vet on the outside. Almost impossible to see from the ground and tough when you are on a ladder.

Then it rained. It leaked, on my new floor.......

Back up on to the roof, pulled out all of the screws. Put a blob vulkum on each before putting them back so it squeezed out around the head as it was tightened. I then ran a bead all around the perimeter using tape to make a nice line.
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It's going to rain tonight, so we'll know in the morning.
Mark
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Old 06-11-2019, 07:20 PM   #168
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I wonder if your new vent fan is one of those "vintage Airstream" look fans that VTS sells. I like the aluminum lid.

David
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:23 AM   #169
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Hi David, it is. I purchased it from VTS and the lid is grey, but nothing like the original that fit like a glove over the top. It may have stayed on by itself, but I added a number of Vulkem dabs as well. I may also add a couple of rivets with backing washers to the leading edge, just in case.

Oh, and it didn't leak at all after the second install through some very heavy rain.
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:44 AM   #170
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Sub Floor Done

Following the advice of those have gone before, I have added 1/4" sub-floor over my brand new 3/4" plywood to accept the Marmoleum. Glad I did, it was not as smooth as I thought.

First step was to go over the plywood joints with a belt sander to flatten them out.
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The Marmoleum supplier didn't think I needed to use the leveler under the new sub floor, but I did anyway. Easy enough to do, spread it and belt sand off any extra. And then re-seal with polyurethane.
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I was thinking about going to Home Depot for the plywood sheets, but went with material from the supplier. It seemed more dense then the typical 1/4" underlayment, but a little more expensive as well.

It might seem like I have more joints than necessary, but I arranged it so only two joints will see any foot traffic the rest are buried under furniture. All outside edges got a coat of polyurethane just to be sure.
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One more application of leveling compound and a little more belt sanding and I was done. I very much like that the joints in the 3/4" are all completely bridged by the new 1/4" material.
Mark
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:16 AM   #171
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Great prep work for the Marmoleum!

Well done, Mark. Worth all the extra time and care IMO.

Peter
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Old 07-05-2019, 07:54 PM   #172
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Moving the Drain

Been a while since I have posted, but not because I haven't been making progress. As a matter of fact the zolatone and marmoleum are done and I will start putting the furniture back in tomorrow. But I am getting ahead of myself, let's go back a couple of weeks and I'll write a couple of posts and bring everyone back up to speed.

With a front bath Safari, it's nice to have the shower pan in place before painting There is an overlapping panel to shed the shower water that is best painted in place. When I built the frame, I designed it with a more modern A-frame angle so it could carry the spare tire underneath. This moved the frame rail out somewhat, encroaching on the shower drain. The pan was otherwise in good shape. Too thin to weld so I had a panel soldered in place. Seems quite strong as it didn't come a part when I drilled a new hole off center.
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Not the most beautiful, so here is what I plan to do. I have always loved the look of the cockpit floor of my old sailboat. So I'll build one of these.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:36 PM   #173
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Prepping for Paint

We had planned to replace the Zolatone from the beginning. I was always a little confused regarding the types. There are two types, automotive type which is solvent based and an architectural type which is water based. Same name, two types of paint produced by two different companies. I called the water based company and they told me I wanted the other type. I know some of you have used the water based in your trailers to good success. I'm just relaying what they told me.

So I decided to go the Zolatone Series 20 - Apollo Grey. That seemed the closest to the original. I decided not to mix multiple color because of the difficulty of duplicating the color match if I should have to re-shoot something.

For a primer I decided on an epoxy primer. I've had good luck with it before, you just need to topcoat within 72 hours (more on that later).

Here's what I bought:
1 gallon epoxy primer and hardener
2 gallons Zolatone (1 additional on back order, in a week......)
Moonsuit - get the rip stop nylon, not the Tyvek
1 gallon laquer thinner
Pressure pot with 2mm gun
Furnace filters
Large fan
Items I had:
Standard paint guns, both high and low pressure
Respirator with remote air pump
Latex gloves
Lots of blue tape
Plastic to create a mini paint booth
Here is the rig I set up to move air through the trailer. I just removed the rear emergency window and fit a box to hold the filter and attach to the fan. It worked really well.
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The Zolatone paint is unlike anything I have ever sprayed before. I can understand why you need a pressure pot and a big nozzle. It is thick.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:38 PM   #174
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Mark, I like the looks of the shower pan wooden thingy. When you make it, please post details on materials and design. Thanks
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:14 PM   #175
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Paint Day

The trailer is ready, everything masked and clean. The weather looks like there will be at least three good days in a row. All systems GO. The only down side it the back ordered third gallon of Zolatone has not been shipped.

To spray the Zolatone is a two step process. First using high pressure and small paint volume about a foot from the surface. The second step uses much lower pressure and it is sprayed 2-3 FEET away.

So I think to myself, two gallons of Zolatone is a lot. I've shot complete cars multiple coats with a gallon. I should be able to at least shoot the first coat, then I can come back and shoot the second when the third gallon arrives. Bad idea.....Remember the 72 hour top coat requirement.

So I shoot the detached bath walls, which are loose, and the airplane style lockers in "paint booth" with the epoxy. And as long as I have the epoxy going, I shoot the refrigerator and stove as well. They have been prepped for a long time.
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Then I move into the trailer, everything seems to be going well. I bought the grey primer upon recommendation of the Zolatone spec sheet. If I were to do it again, I think I would have shot white primer. The grey was kinda of dark and a pain to cover uniformly.

Now on to the Zolatone. Two gallons is a lot as it filled up the pressure pot. I start by spraying the interiors of the lockers. Very easy to put on too thick, best to be as light as possible to cover the primer. Moved into the trailer. Going well, paint pot seems heavy until I run out about two thirds through. Panic.
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Call the back order company, still no idea, cancel the order. Found two more gallons from another supplier. These are $200 a gallon shipped. But they will take a week to get here because they have to go ground.

Once I accepted reality, I moved on and top coated the appliances. They came out nice.
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While I waited for the paint, I scuffed all the epoxy primer that wasn't covered with Zolatone. I also installed the lockers. That way all of the rivets will be painted as well.
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:21 PM   #176
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Paint Day Two

The Zolatone arrive in about a week. By then I had gone over all of the exposed primer with sandpaper to rough it up. I then had to shoot it again with the primer and finally with the Zolatone.

I like the color a lot.
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Everything came out fine in the end.
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:27 PM   #177
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Bathroom Sink

Since I was in the painting mode, figured I take care of the sink as well. It was yellowed and I had repaired a couple of holes with an ABS slurry.

Here is the original
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I primed it with a flexible automotive primer and then sprayed it with polyurethane automotive paint. Came out nice.
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:55 PM   #178
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Marmoleum

Picking out which marmoleum to buy was harder than the installation.

We ended up with a dark chocolate brown which should make the amber wood really stand out.
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The key to the easy installation was building a full size template out of paper. We bought the marmoleum from a local distributor who let me use his warehouse to lay it out and cut it. We rolled it back up brought it home and laid it out in the trailer. There was maybe a couple of hours of trimming for fit and to also patch in pieces along the street side. Because of the trailer layout there is only about 18" of seam not hidden and it is under the dinette table.
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I used about a gallon of adhesive and you will need a 100# roller. I was able to rent one from Home Depot for about $20.
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So you should now be pretty much caught up. The polishing is also making progress. Looks pretty good from across the street.
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Old 07-05-2019, 11:16 PM   #179
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Awesome work, Mark. Somehow Iíve missed your thread. Fun reading. Looks like we walked down a similar path regarding our trailers and what they needed (frames, etc). Brian
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:20 AM   #180
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Hi Bubba, will do. I think the shower grate will be one of those rainy afternoon projects.

Thanks Brian, coming from you that means a lot. Having to replace the frame was one of those unexpected pleasures, especially since it had a brand new floor.
Mark
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