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Old 11-20-2017, 08:32 PM   #241
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
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More front center panel

More of the front panel. However, I did take a few minutes to clean up the serial number plate. I didn't want to try to repaint it, just get rid of the dirt.

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I drilled and cleco'd the panel, then cleaned and sealed it. I had added the front hold down plate, and added a few rivets to where there were not any before. This includes some shots from the inside. Looks very nice with the protective sheet removed. I also added an additional Airstream logo to the front panel as well.

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Old 11-20-2017, 09:05 PM   #242
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Matt, the front looks great. The interior framing sure looks familiar. Still interested in your plans for the AC, conceiled or exposed. Keep posting the progress. Bubba
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Old 11-20-2017, 09:54 PM   #243
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Workmanship...?

The one thing that drives me a little nuts. Was it that hard to drill at regular intervals in a straight line? Lots of holes to patch up when I put the window back in.

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Old 11-20-2017, 10:16 PM   #244
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The 62 from the factory we did last year had 14" of mid body horizontal seam that had no rivets or holes drilled from the factory. Guess they started the panel on Friday and finished on Sunday or something. Those extra holes could be rock guards or awnings over time too. It is very clear that a grease pencil and tape were used as "guidelines" for where to drill. when I replace panels I drill the old holes into the new, cleco and cleco clamping the panels together to reuse all the old holes and make sure I have an exact fit since none of these are the same or even symmetrical for that matter. All made by hand, by eye to an extent.

Your work looks amazing!
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:18 PM   #245
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Front streetside window

Installing the front window on the street side.

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It was a bit shocking to see how dirty the interior window frames were. But they were still solid, and came clean with a bit of acid cleaner.

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It's taken a little practice, but I have learned how to install the backframe gaskets fairly accurately. But there is a bit of a mess to clean out after drilling.

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Old 11-20-2017, 10:24 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goransons View Post
...none of these are the same or even symmetrical for that matter. All made by hand, by eye to an extent.
I know what you mean. It both drives me nuts and endears me to the trailer at the same time. Grease pencil and tape is probably a stretch in many cases. Part of the reason I wanted a 50s trailer was that nearly all of it could be redone, that there was this handmade nature.

My recently acquired Spartan has its rivets all in dead straight lines all evenly spaced, nary a riveting blemish of any sort. I don't know if I will be able to adjust when I start working on it.
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Old 11-21-2017, 06:42 AM   #247
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I have plugged to many holes to count. Another QC problem with AS. I think their construction methods are to "Measure with a Micrometer, Mark it with a Crayon. Cut it with a Meat Clever, and Drill with a Shotgun". And then assemble with no seam sealant.
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Old 11-21-2017, 07:31 AM   #248
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Very true! My last two trailer projects have had "almost blind" pop rivets holding the end cap segments to the bows, but only partly covered or not covered at all by the side skins. The inside just looks like they paved the bottom of the rivet with tar. I'm sure it worked awhile. Still love em though!
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:34 PM   #249
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Drip caps

Most of my original drip caps were in pretty rough shape. I did not feel like trying to straighten them all up. The one on the front window was still in good shape, but I wanted them all to be clean and shiny before going back on. Cue the buffer and compound. Big difference right away.
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:47 PM   #250
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Front window and drip cap

Front window goes on.

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Old 12-14-2017, 07:54 PM   #251
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Filling holes

There were a number of holes from the old drip caps that did not line up and would not be covered by the new drip caps. After measuring all the drip cap locations and test fitting, I filled in any holes that would not be covered.

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Old 12-15-2017, 12:54 AM   #252
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Looks great! So you used the black bar from Caswell? What is in the spray bottle? Congratulations!
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Old 12-15-2017, 05:17 AM   #253
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Looks great! So you used the black bar from Caswell? What is in the spray bottle? Congratulations!
I use the black and brown bar most of the time. The brown gets through the oxidation, and the black shines fastest. For less aggressive applications I usually just use a softer wheel. The bottle is just mineral spirits to clean up.
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:57 PM   #254
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Rear Accessories

Took a little time to install the license plate holder and the tail lights.

Anything that can be riveted, gets riveted.

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Old 01-18-2018, 09:26 PM   #255
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More drip caps and my vintage license plate cleanup

The last couple drip caps.

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It took some time, but I also finally found a proper vintage license plate. But it was in pretty rough shape.

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Old 01-18-2018, 10:52 PM   #256
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My agenda is

Drink beer and weld
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:32 AM   #257
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My agenda is



Drink beer and weld


I support both, but hopefully not quite in that order!
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:06 PM   #258
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12V Initial Plan

Some of you may realize it but I am a lazy poster of progress. Most of my stuff is about 5-6 months behind. I am slow in the process and slower on the posting. However, these next few electrical plan posts are hot off the production line. I am ready to start wiring, but unfortunately, my total practical knowledge of electrical wiring could fit into a thimble. Oh, I am indeed familiar with the principles of circuits, polarity, resistance, voltage, amperage, etc., but the gulf between that limited abstract knowledge and practical knowledge may as well be the Grand Canyon. I have been reading a few books including Mueller’s RV Electrical Systems and others.

In the spirit of just cracking on and muddling through figuring all this out, I have tried to capture some of what I have learned and what I have been able to scour from the interwebs and put them into an initial plan. One thing I find interesting about that web search is that a lot of people are searching for wiring diagrams for Airstreams. Two things happen: 1) they find one of the scanned versions that Airstream used to put in some of their manuals in the 60s and 70s, or 2) they put in an initial version for feedback and never update it with the final version.

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My hope is that some generous souls with the right knowledge will help steer me to a good plan. My plan is then to use that to run wire myself based upon that plan, and then use a master electrician acquaintance to check everything and do the final hook ups, ensuring it is to code, etc.

Some questions and notes:

1) Need to know if I am missing anything for items to plan for, loads-wise. I am planning on dropping in a few spare lines, but these are not shown.

2) I don’t have a clue on fuses, breakers, shunts and the like outside of the panel boxes. Need to know where and what to put in additional to the stuff shown.

3) Need to know where else I will need to put in dedicated grounds, and whether these need to go to the chassis or the shell/frame.

4) Ultimately, I need to figure out where every single piece of wiring goes. Which circuits need to come back to a negative bus bar (which is connected to the negative terminal on the battery, but not shown) and which can simply go to ground?

5) The solar and inverter will not be installed right away, but I do want to have all the runs in place.

6) I am adding some 12V outlets in addition to the 110V ones shown, although I am not entirely sure how many total yet for each.

7) I am also adding some additional LED lighting strips under the counter edges and along the floor for accent lighting or night-time assistance. There will also be one, or a hookup for one under the belly of the trailer. My wife thinks these are cool, so…they are cool.

8) I would also like to wire the trailer up front to allow me to run shore power to the running and tail lights with the flip of a switch.

9) The batteries and panels will be under the seats up front, with dividers in as necessary to keep things separated. The solar controller and some of the control switches and monitors will be under the seats up front on the other side as well.

10) I don’t know if I need both a dedicated surge protector and an autoformer, but I have had a number of close calls with my 2012, and definitely want an autoformer up front. That said, they are expensive, and I would rather have and electrical issue kill a fuse or the less expensive surge protector rather than the autoformer.

11) Need to know what type of wire to buy, and whether it is worth it to go for more expensive marine, tinned, wet resistant, etc. I plan at this point for the 12V system is just to buy a combination of 12/14 stranded auto wire with some temperature resistance, and a little 8/10 for the heavier needs, in addition to short lengths of heavy cable where needed. Can I use the same wire for the 110V stuff? I bought some solid Romex and one point and I really don’t want to fight it.

12) For connections, I was planning on using the little crimped end connects where it was easier than going directly from the strand. I am going to avoid any other splicing, but will use shrink tube if absolutely necessary. If there are better options, I am open to them.

So there you go dear readers, thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 01-23-2018, 08:00 PM   #259
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Bump, perhaps should have posted on the dedicated forum for electrical questions?
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Old 01-23-2018, 08:10 PM   #260
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I'm zero help on anything solar related. I hate dealing with chassis ground on inside stuff (with cabinets, fiberglass end caps in newer stuff etc) so when I rewire I run dedicated grounds for everything and terminate them back at the fuse panel together.

I took the cue from a tin-can tourist post years back and I use the low voltage landscape wire. It's extremely UV resistant, has a very thick insulation that I don't worry about damaging during install nearly as much, and is stranded copper and pretty reasonably priced. The only drawback is that both wires are black, but one has a ribbed profile and I keep a roll of color coded electrical tape to mark my grounds to keep everything happy during install and down the road for repairs.

Heat shrink is great for helping keep connections tight and keeping moisture out.
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1955, air conditioning, axle, door, flying cloud, frame, holding tanks, polish, restoration, shell off, tank heater, window


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