Just purchased 1950 Flying Cloud

[FC7039]

I just purchased a 1950 Flying Cloud. I would rate it as in rough shape. So far I have removed the floor and all the decomposed floor, insulation and dirt. My plan is to remove all the interior panels and redo the wiring and insulation. Though most of the interior is original, it is in rough shape. My goal is to rebuild it based on the floor plans from http://airstream.net/members/documen...%20Catalog.pdf

My trailer has the chaise lounges. I plan to convert it to a double bed.

I plan to put in a wet bath as the plans show that was an option. I will be looking for advice in putting in black/grey tanks.

Does anyone have any photos of what the 3 piece front divan looked like?

Has anyone used a split mini ductless air conditioner.

http://www.ac-world.com/proddetail.p...a9000BTU&cat=9

I thought I could install the inside unit in place of an overhead cabinet. This idea is dependent upon being able to have "quick connect" so the outside unit can be left behind when not needed.

Any advice will be welcome.

Thanks,

Gene

[yukionna]

Originally Posted by FC7039

I just purchased a 1950 Flying Cloud.

Congratulations and welcome! I have a 1954 Flying Cloud that I haven't started to restore yet. Good luck and I'm sure you will get answers to your questions in this forum. Also, try the "search" button which will give you lots of information on most restoration topics.

[dmreilly10000]

Congradulations on your new Airstream.

I noticed that the split airconditioner was only 9,000 BTU. I also noticed you live in Texas. I think you will need a lot more A/C than that.

I have a 1953 Cruiser and replaced one of the skylites with an RV airconditioner. It doesn't look as good as without one, but I live in Mississippi and pretty much need all the A/C I can get.

Good luck.

David.

[FC7039]

If you want to know what a pipe frame looks like.

[safari57]

It would look like you are really having fun. It will be interesting to watch how you go about redoing your Cloud.

Thanks for sharing the pictures so far. Keep them coming.

Barry

[CombatMedic]

wow you took that off yourself?

[Stefrobrts]

Wow, your neighbors must be delighted

Good job, you're really making good progress!

[FC7039]

Add to the cost of the restore the doctor's visits. I dropped the Marine Clean (Por-15 cleaner) and it splashed straight into my eye. The stuff, though advertised environmentally safe and non caustic, really burns bad. So far an emergency room visit, not sure what that will cost me in the end and an eye doctor visit for $150 and another scheduled for next week. Think of the tools that could be bought with that money.

Here is a picture of the new frame pieces. You can see the center pipe. Originally there were two side frame pieces made of light steel C channels made into an I beam. To these the springs were attached. They are held in place only by the aluminum I beam ribs. These are just bent 2024 skin pieces. I have laid on top the new frame pieces. I will replace the two old rusted I beams with longer 4 inch steel C channel. I will also weld in cross beams. In the space behind the wheels I plan on holding tanks and possibly a spare tire carrier. In the sections in front of the axles I plan on water tanks.

[byamcaravanner]

Originally Posted by FC7039

Does anyone have any photos of what the 3 piece front divan looked like?

Thanks for all the pipe frame picts. Those don't come along often. Here is a pict of a Divan similar to what you are looking for.

Good luck with the project and please keep us updated.

[47WeeWind]

Hi FC7039:

Here is a suggestion to strengthen your new frame while the doing is easy. Below is a photo of the front pipe frame on my old '51 18' Clipper. It has a sturdy inverted C channel crossbar on which to mount the propone tank bottom bracket. That C channel is made more secure by triangulation with an angled support arm underneath on one side.

My suggestion is to make your improved pipe frame into a subtle "A" frame by adding two such angled support arms that extend from the front of the pipe frame to the front of each new longer side rail. Add an inverted C channel on which to mount the propane tank lower bracket and weld it all together for a nice strong modified and improved pipe frame. The "A" frame up front will be somewhat disguised as propane bracket support arms, but should greatly improve frame strength by directly tying the trailer axle to your tow vehicle by metal frame rails without having to depend on the plywood floor for part of that connection structure.

Adding this "A" frame on up front will reduce both vertical and horizontal flexing and oscillation of the 4" pipe, which weakens it over time. It will also reduce the chances of pulling the pipe out from underneath the trailer in later years. Best wishes with your rebuild!

[FC7039]

I finished up the welding on the frame. I may need to do more depending on how I hang the tanks and for the step. I added an 'A'. Thanks for that suggestion. I also added a spare tire carrier. I bought the hoist from a junk yard. It is from a Ford van.

Next I need get tanks, both fresh and grey/black. One question I have is how much clearence should I allow between the rails and the tank so when I order them I do not get too large.

[NorCal Bambi]

This is a great project. Please keep the pictures and progress comming.
Don

[FC7039]

I was thinking of getting some half inch aluminum channel to run as floor support lengthwise. I have moved some of the "ribs" to make room for some tanks, fresh and grey. Well those ribs were where the four foot mark fell for the plywood to butt. I do not want to butt the plywood mid ribs. I can cut the plywood short or I can run channel perpendicular to the ribs. This also gives me a method of providing some support to the ends, which were solely supported by plywood and the center pipe. I have modified a picture to give some idea of what I mean.
I was thinking that since I am replacing all my belly skin, I can make my floor higher and compensate for the extra with the new belly skin.
Is there any faults in my thinking?

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[NorCal Bambi]

FC7039, The frame is looking great. I think your idea of extrea supports for the floor is a good idea. I might suggest further resurch about using aluminum in the frame. Moisture gets in this area and the Aluminum steel combination might not be a good idea. You could probable use steel with less cross members and get the same results. I say yes on cutting the floor ing to have joints over cross members. On my 55 flying Cloud when I do the floor I'm also going to use biskets in the joints to make a more solid connection. Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress.
Don

[Aerowood]

Installing aluminum to steel will work if you follow some guidelines first. First treat the aluminum with a good metal prep and alodine, then prime with a good quality epoxy. Before installing apply a liberal amount of sealant at the mating surfaces, and install SS fasteners wet. This will prevent the two dissimilar metals from becoming a battery when water is present.

[byamcaravanner]

You might also consider running the panels the long way and placing a support angle along the centerline above your pipe. If you buy your plywood from a commercial supply house you will be able to get 4'x10' panels. This would mean you would only need (4)pcs. If that still does not allow landing the joint on a cross member, you could add just one more where required. Increasing the floor thickness to 3/4" could easily be accounted for with your new belly pan.

Your doing a great job. I really appreciate all the pipe frame picts... not often that we get a peek at these.

[FC7039]

If I do run the 1/2 aluminum channel, they would be fastened to the aluminum ribs not the steel, except where the channel would come together at the points on the ends. I have not devised a method for that yet. I am not sure how the original floor was mated to the pipe on the ends. The trailer’s floor was really rotted and was touching the pipe on the ends. The front had a large u-bolt. I am again going to do this as I think there are high forces there when pulling.

Aluminum may touch the steel but is not generally fastened to it. The only place that aluminum is fastened to steel is where the two outside steel frames are bolted to aluminum ribs, fore and aft, (the primer color in the picture is aluminum, black is POR-15 on steel) and where the aluminum ribs are fastened to the center pipe. This is how the trailer was built. Some of it corroded away other parts were fine.

I have not used alodine as I did not know about it. Not sure I can go back but for sure can treat all future places that may mate together. I have used POR on all the steel before any contact with aluminum. Would the POR work as the epoxy Aero? What do you mean by "wet" on the SS? I am fabricating an aluminum pan to hold a water bladder and plan on mounting it to the steel frame using SS screws.

As for using plywood lengthwise, the center pipe is not flush with the cross ribs. It sits about a 1/4 inch lower. There would not be any support there. I could build it up but there still would be no support on the ends as the pipe is the only true support there. Biscuits may work but that would require another tool. The ½ channel is $10 per 16 foot stick. It would take about 10. I am now thinking to spend the money on a biscuit cutter. Same money or less and in the end I have another tool but less support on the ends. Is there a term where the cost of tools purchased eclipses the cost of the trailer?

[safari57]

Originally Posted by FC7039

Is there a term where the cost of tools purchased eclipses the cost of the trailer?

Oh yeah, it's called bliss. In the past I've been known to start a certain project knowing that with that comes a whole swack of new tools to try out . Probably the biggest was the hoist.

Donna has not caught on to that ploy yet, or at least hasn't let on that she knows what I'm up to.

Barry

[Aerowood]

By wet I mean putting a big glob of sealant in the fastener hole before installing a stainless steel bolt. An acid etch cleans the oxidation, oils, etc before appling alodine which is a conversion coating allowing paint or primer to adhere to the aluminum. Paints and primers do not stick well to an oxidized surface. Paint sticks very well to an alodined surface. I don't think POR15 is the right coating for aluminum but I could be wrong. Any kind of high quality primer will work.

[NorCal Bambi]

Aerowood, great information on joining steel and aluminum. I had a Bonanza for many years and worked on it often. I used alodine to treat surfaces before painting and it is the way to go. As I remember I had a formula where I could get chemicals thru the drug store to make the stuff. Do you know of such a formula? Also I was told that it is a fairly dangerous chemical to work with. What information do you have on that? The reason the bi-metal thing concerns me is that I had a sailboat in the ocean and metals combinations always seemed to spell trouble. I know salt water is a whole different environment. The old trailers with the tube frames are very similar to the way many aircraft wings were constructed. I've never heard anyone mention that similarity. It made Airstreams even more like aircraft. What do you think?
FC7039, keep the great pictures and history of your project coming. I hope it will bring more of the original Airstream out and in to the open.
Don