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goshawks00 · 12-19-2013, 06:59 AM

We have pretty much got a floor plan but it is subject to change

Our biggest concern is where we will put the Natures head. Until it comes and we can actually put it where we hope it goes and see that it will work there, we are stalled.

One other major issue. On our 66 Safari there is a center support that runs the length of the trailer, the 54 does not have that ( see earlier pics) Because of this the floors seems to "flex" as you step on the unsupported area between the cross members. It really bothers me, so I am going to run a second layer of 3/8" floor down, to stiffen it.

BTW to answer your question of a couple months ago...yes we have all the metal to redo the sides.. .040 for the sides and .032 for the ends. Need to get a rivet gun and bucking bar to practice so we'll be ready come spring time.

calais66 · 12-21-2013, 08:04 PM

I'm in the same boat with my '51--my floor is going in I'm afraid it's going to have the same flexing issue. Probably going to add some wood bracing under the center sections.

goshawks00 · 12-22-2013, 04:34 AM

If you don't have tanks it would be no problem welding in a center end to end angle brace to stiffen it up. My problem is I have tanks that come up to the floor so all I can do is add more flooring in hopes of 'tighting' it up.

FC7039 · 12-22-2013, 07:09 PM

[QUOTE=I am going to run a second layer of 3/8" floor down, to stiffen it. .[/QUOTE]
A sheet of 3/8 ply weighs ~30 lbs. though stiffer, heavier

goshawks00 · 12-22-2013, 07:29 PM

Yes but what other options do I have?

calais66 · 12-22-2013, 08:07 PM

I'm with you--worth an extra 120# for a flex-free floor IMO.

FC7039 · 12-23-2013, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goshawks00

Yes but what other options do I have?

If you are going with linoleum then another layer would be ok. If you are thinking about laminate then I would not. Keep in mind that you really only walk on the middle two feet of the floor for the most part. My free advice

riv-nut · 01-03-2014, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goshawks00

We have pretty much got a floor plan but it is subject to change

Our biggest concern is where we will put the Natures head. Until it comes and we can actually put it where we hope it goes and see that it will work there, we are stalled.

One other major issue. On our 66 Safari there is a center support that runs the length of the trailer, the 54 does not have that ( see earlier pics) Because of this the floors seems to "flex" as you step on the unsupported area between the cross members. It really bothers me, so I am going to run a second layer of 3/8" floor down, to stiffen it.

BTW to answer your question of a couple months ago...yes we have all the metal to redo the sides.. .040 for the sides and .032 for the ends. Need to get a rivet gun and bucking bar to practice so we'll be ready come spring time.

Hi Barry,
Hope your potty gets delivered soon so you can figure out your floor plan! Did you replace your floor with 5/8" plywood? I used 3/4" on mine and it feels real stiff everywhere. Adding more to the top might be your only option at this point. You could probably even go with 1/8" or 1/4" and as long as you glued it down with some good hardening adhesive with full coverage, it would stiffen it up considerably. If you used something soft like silicone and only laid down some pattern of beads, you probably wouldn't get much stiffening out of it....the two sheets would act like a leaf spring.

Your comment about riveting puzzles me....you put the shell back on, so did you not actually rivet it yet?? Now that you mention it, I kind of remember you using screws to temporarily hold it on until you did rivet it. Riveting is pretty fun actually. I'm getting pretty good at it. I've ended up using the 5/32" wing nut clecos (KWN Wing-Nut Draw Cleco 5/32" (0-1/2") New) quit a bit because I'm needing to really squeeze together my stack-up of sheets. The wing nut clecos can really pull things together much more than just the spring loaded clecos. In my case, I have the outer skin, belly pan, and inner channel (and sometimes a doubler) to pull together. The belly pan is just folded up there, so there's plenty of gap to pull out prior to drilling and riveting. The rivet kit (3X rivet gun) from vintage trailer supply is working nicely. That would be fun if we lived closer to lend each other a hand now and then! Keep us posted!

Lee

goshawks00 · 01-03-2014, 03:26 PM

Yes Lee it will be 3/8" overlay now, but we are on hold...just to cold. After 3 days of continual powdery snow I shoveled through 13" of drifted snow to check on Spoon's wellness

There are three drifts inside her where snow has filtered in from the vent on her top, one window that WAS taped shut, and the entry door that is less than a tight fit. Being the floor is sealed well, and the said vent is snow covered I will leave it for now, though I will screw the window shut with wire wrapped around a stick for tightness. The door-well not much I can do for it now but I real am not worried about the snow , I can broom it out. BTW they are calling for another 8-12" this weekend, plus -minus temps( a balmy -4 out as I type).
I am well aware of the screw down clecos having used them periodically on hotrods over the years they work but I don't see them as being necessary (I hope) and they really can slow you down. What rivets are you using?
For now I am in shut down mode on the Spoon , but am plenty business on Silvadilla (our 66 Safari) which is in the car barn.
Happy New Year,
Barry

riv-nut · 01-05-2014, 02:44 AM

Holy Cow....you guys are getting beat up weather-wise!! Bet it's beautiful back there....we were hoping for a white Christmas, but didn't get it. Same ol' rain out here. Yes, the draw clecos slow things down a bit, but small price to pay for getting the stack-up really tight! Good to hear yours will fit up nice. I used the 1/8" channel all around the perimeter, so mine really needed to fit up good. I've been using the 5/32" rivets with the 1/8" brazier head from Vintage trailer supply (Solid Buck Rivets) .... if you get a couple packs of each length, then you're about ready for any stack-up. VTS has been pretty good to deal with. I also recently bought a set of stainless steel hinges for the door (Airstream Door Hinges) ($200 was a bit hard to swallow, but they do look nice and my originals were really shot). We'll see how these work out in the next few weeks...hopefully :-)
Good luck with the weather! Keep up the good work!

Lee

goshawks00 · 01-05-2014, 05:27 AM

Yes calling for 8-10" snow today again. Had a break in the weather yesterday and shoveled :>) out the inside of Spoon and filled in the vents and doors so it should be good and tight now. Also polished more on the tanks.
I almost choked on my coffee when you said get a couple of packs of each rivet. I'm guessing I'll need about a thousand rivets (+-) to do all the skins, plus another bunch for the door when I re-skin it. BTW the modified Braisers are what I'll be using also. I'm still looking for a good place to buy in bulk.

FC7039 · 01-05-2014, 02:22 PM

You can buy rivets by the pound from Hanson Rivets. That is what I did. I also bought a rivet cutter so I could cut long shank rivets to what I need. I would not suggest you buy all long rivets but buy the majority the length you need but buy a smaller amount of long that can be used where needed and cut when a short shank is better.

goshawks00 · 01-21-2014, 10:05 AM

So I'm finally back to where we were 5 months ago. The addition of the 3/8" ply really strengthened the floor but man what a chore. Working inside when it's 0-10 below out is a trip. Put a propane heater in to warm it up and it sweated like a rain forest. Spent more time whipping the condensing skin than working. After the floor was down and the seams sealed I was able to put two coats of exterior varnish over it all. By keeping a fan on high at the ceiling and a small ceramic heater going it dried without a hitch. PHEW!!
The Natures Head toilet is in the trailer not installed) and we are beginning to plot out the final layout of it and the bed. We are having a heat wave right now and it's +5 out ..yahoo spring is coming

goshawks00 · 01-22-2014, 01:45 PM

I got a box in the mail today with three vintage BAL long shaft stabilizers... all for $35.00 total with shipping...a steal. Yea they are cruddy looking and one is bent but nothing a bit of time can't remedy. These are the ones that have the cast aluminum arms, of which one is broke, luckily around the corner is a good friend that can weld aluminum back up. I still need one more stabilizer, but at this point I could buy 1 new and still come out a couple hundred ahead...!!
BTW I love repurposing old unwanted parts!!

calais66 · 01-22-2014, 01:49 PM

Nice score!

Reuben Byrd · 03-05-2014, 11:50 AM

We are just about where you are in the restoration of the interior. Stripping the Zoletone interior paint first, then removal of interior skin, and eventually replacing the entire floor. Looking ahead, we will need a Rear Egress Window frame, with or without glass. Any ideas of wear we might find one. Thanks, Byrdman rbyrd@clinehose.com

goshawks00 · 03-05-2014, 04:35 PM

Sorry no I don't. We have a few interior parts that need homes but that's about it.

Reuben Byrd · 03-06-2014, 06:53 AM

Thanks, Byrdman

goshawks00 · 03-11-2014, 02:48 PM

Man this is depressing, ordered two Fantastic fans-two rolls of Prodex, a new fancy 3x rivet gun, the last of four BAL stabilizer and now the weatherman is calling for 4-8"n of snow tonight. I wish summer would hurry up and get here, I've given up on spring ;>(

MattB · 03-12-2014, 08:21 PM

I can relate, work this winter has revolved around the weather, and having just finally received the last of the holding tanks, I am still waiting for the axle before I can get the frame to the welder. I've got piles of parts for the frame, tanks, floor and windows while I wait for the axle. I just have about 1.5 windows to go, and some interior panel polishing to work on at night.

Fortunately or unfortunately my wife has some honey-do items should I get bored. Hope the snow melts soon for you.