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04-07-2009, 09:00 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Wellington
, Nevada
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 66
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What thickness aluminum for interior wall coverage is good? and where 2 buy it?
OK, I am planning on buying a few sheets of aluminum and using it to cover some interior wood walls that have wayy too many holes drilled in them and that we just simply want to change the look of.
I watched the DIY videos and liked the idea of using aluminum to cover the bathroom shower wall for a water tights wall, but am also going to do several more interior walls the same way. However, what the video does not tell you is what thickness to use. How thick does it need to be to avoid being damaged too easy, and where is the best place to buy aluminum locally?????
And for those using aluminum, what electric sheers do you use, what is a good brand. I have some air sheers but I dont think they would cut nice enough for this application?
Dave
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04-07-2009, 09:14 PM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member
1962 22' Flying Cloud
Bend
, Oregon
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 370
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I would recommend .025 or .030 for interior walls. If you are going to leave the exposed aluminum, then you may want to get some alclad (polishable) from:
Airparts Inc. Homepage
If you are going to paint or cover it anyway, you can probably buy non-alcald from you local heating and duct supply. They may have to order it, but should have an source.
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04-07-2009, 09:29 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
2002 16' Bambi
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Delta
, BC
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 57
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I use Milwaukee electric shears, had them several years with no problems. I get my aluminum from a local scrap dealer at a great price.
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04-08-2009, 06:45 AM
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#4
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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For covering interior walls you could go as thin as tinfoil if you really wanted, but IMHO .019" would be the best way to go. Thin enough to be easy enough to work with but thick enough to not be flimsy, you can buy it with a painted coat already on it or in mill finish. .024/.025 is readily available in mill finish or painted also. Look for a commercial roofing and sheet metal supply house. Someone like Bradco or ABC supply.
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
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10-13-2013, 07:46 PM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1970 31' Sovereign
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
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would this be suitable to replace the interior skins and not effect the structure? I want to replace, not cover up.
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10-20-2013, 04:39 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1996 34' Excella
Elberta
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
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Check with Woodland Travel Center, Grand Rapids, MI. They are one of Airstream's oldest dealer and have a very complete inventory of parts. I bought aluminum from them the same as used on Airstream exterior panel that has the clearcoat on it.
I did a backsplash in the kitchen area from the countertop to the top cabinets. Pretty easy project, just make templates with either cardboard, or foamboard.
I used "Metal Master" tin snips to cut most of it, and a fine tooth blade in a Bosch jig saw to trim curves, etc.
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10-22-2013, 06:50 AM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1984 31' Sovereign
Currently Looking...
charleton
, Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 42
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I used polished Stainless Steel for the same purposes when I refurbished my 83 Sovereign. It provided the same look, yet will never need polished, just clean with windex.
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12-08-2013, 07:04 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2002 30' Classic S/O
Fleming Island
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,667
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How does one insulate when replacing with Aluminum?
I like the aluminum interior of the newer trailers, but I have read several posts talking about the thermal aspects of the aluminum interior. If the interior aluminum is riveted to the ribs and the ribs are riveted to the outer skin that would seem to provide a good conduction path for heat in in the summer and heat out in the winter. Is something done to isolate the interior aluminum in the newer trailer or when retrofitting an older one with aluminum interior?
__________________
“You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"
Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO WBCCI 1322
2002 Classic 30 Slideout -S/OS #004
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
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12-09-2013, 05:08 AM
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#9
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy
I like the aluminum interior of the newer trailers, but I have read several posts talking about the thermal aspects of the aluminum interior. If the interior aluminum is riveted to the ribs and the ribs are riveted to the outer skin that would seem to provide a good conduction path for heat in in the summer and heat out in the winter. Is something done to isolate the interior aluminum in the newer trailer or when retrofitting an older one with aluminum interior?
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You could put a layer of 5mm Prodex between the inner skin and the ribs, and rivet right through it. You'd still have heat conduction via the rivets, but a thermal break along the rest of the contact surface.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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12-09-2013, 06:57 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist
You could put a layer of 5mm Prodex between the inner skin and the ribs, and rivet right through it. You'd still have heat conduction via the rivets, but a thermal break along the rest of the contact surface.
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That's exactly what I did on my '63. So far, so good.
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03-07-2014, 02:28 AM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
1966 22' Safari
tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 16
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has anyone ever done a replacement of the interior skin (painted alum.) using "Formica" or forming plywood (comes in many veneer types) and glued the skin on without rivets or screws for a clean look?
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