Start of Interior Restoration

[Young_Buck]

I’m looking at getting an old gutted airstream for my first “house” and have started researching the subject of restoring them. Keep in mind as I post that this does not need to be fancy in literally any way, I just want well-built long-lasting quality that I can add to over time. I also don’t plan to move this around once it’s in place. Before you write me off as an idiot about to get way in over his head, please note that my dad lives near by and can advise me on general plumbing, wiring, etc.
I would guess the first step to making a gutted shell livable would be insulation and an interior skin. I had first thought that spray foam would be the way to go, but some people said that it doesn’t do well in trainers. Thus my first question is can I use spray foam or not and what are my alternatives if I can’t?
What could I do for an interior skin, or could I get away without one for a while? 1/4 birch slapped up on the sides?
I’m sure I’ll have more questions, thanks in advance for the info

[Bubba L]

Not sure if I’ve ever seen a gutted Airstream for sale with all the insulation and inside skin off. If it’s going to be a park model and never be moved then you could do anything you wanted to the inside. You may consider looking for one complete but the inside in poor shape. As far as insulation, we went with two courses of Prodex with 1/4” strips of Foamular to try and create a dead air space help prevent cold and heat transfer. We took temperatures of the skin at different stages and it did help. You may consider doing a bit of reading and research to narrow down exactly what shape of trailer would work best for you. Good luck

[overlander64]

Greetings Young_Buck!

Welcome to the Forums and the World of Airstreams!!

Originally Posted by Young_Buck

I’m looking at getting an old gutted airstream for my first “house” and have started researching the subject of restoring them. Keep in mind as I post that this does not need to be fancy in literally any way, I just want well-built long-lasting quality that I can add to over time.

Please take plenty of time to carefully consider your plan because once you have made the decision to build out the interior as a "permanent residence style build" you will be adding weight such that towing as a travel trailer in the future will be impractical, particularly if you do not construct an entirely new frame. Most of the Vintage Airstream trailers that you will find gutted will be around 30 years or more old, and were built around the time that the switch was being made from towing with the large family sedan to Suburbans, and similar vehicles, so were built with lighter frames and lighter furnishings to accommodate the types of tow vehicles typcially being utilized.

Part of the reason that I mention this is that you will likely find that a gutted Vintage Airstgream is going to have a problematic floor which should be addressed before any build out because it is part of the strength of the trailer itself. An Airstream is monocoque construction meaning that the floor, ribs, interior skin, and exterior skin all work together to create structural strength and integrity. When one of these components is compromised the structural integrity can be negatively impacted.

Many restorers carefully remove the interior skins, clean, and replace them after addressing sealing leaks, upgrading 12-volt wiring, upgrading 120-volt wiring, and upgrading insulation.

Originally Posted by Young_Buck

I also don’t plan to move this around once it’s in place. Before you write me off as an idiot about to get way in over his head, please note that my dad lives near by and can advise me on general plumbing, wiring, etc.

Carefully consider this decision as once you build the trailer out with heavier home-type furnishings, it will be very difficult to return it to that state that it will be suitable for use as a travel trailer. You also need to keep in mind the original GVWR of the trailer as this guides you to how sturdily it was built from the factory -- the older the unit the lighter the original frame and furnishings will be because these older Vintage Airstreams were meant to be towed by the family sedan and it was rare that an owner would tow one with a pickup when they were new or late models.

Originally Posted by Young_Buck

I would guess the first step to making a gutted shell livable would be insulation and an interior skin. I had first thought that spray foam would be the way to go, but some people said that it doesn’t do well in trainers. Thus my first question is can I use spray foam or not and what are my alternatives if I can’t?

I will defer to others who have actually had to restore the interiors of their Vintage Airstreams on the Insulation issues. I was very fortunate in that both of my trailers were in continuous use by their previous owners and very well maintained when I acquired them. I am the third owner of my 1964 Overlander Land Yacht International (since 1995), and the second owner of my 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre (since 2002). What I would suggest is trying a Forums search for spray foam insulation as I know there are at least two or three restoration threads where the owners utilized spray foam insulation products -- if I remember correctly, it was closed cell, but the particular product chosen was said to make a huge difference -- that I do remember from those posts.

The traditional method of attack is to address the subfloor and frame first to be certain that they are both in excellent condition. More often than not on a gutted trailer, most if not all of the subfloor will likely need replacement. Replacing the subfloor requires removing the lowest portions of the shell to expose the channel into which the subfloor fits. Once the subfloor is addressed then it is typically on to addressing leaks, 12-Volt DC Wiring, 120-Volt AC wiring, insulation and the reinstallation of the interior skins.

Originally Posted by Young_Buck

What could I do for an interior skin, or could I get away without one for a while? 1/4 birch slapped up on the sides?

Again this is a decision that can impact the future should you decide that you want to use it as a travel trailer rather than a stationary home. Wood paneling is likely to be considerably heavier than the aluminum interior skins so would inhibit such a transition. Also there may be some lessening of the structural integrity with wood paneling, of course that could vary tremendously depending up species chosen.

Originally Posted by Young_Buck

I’m sure I’ll have more questions, thanks in advance for the info

Good luck with your investigation and planning!!

Kevin

[Young_Buck]

That’s good information about the strength of the frame, I hadn’t really thought about that. A big priority of mine is being able to heat and cool it cheaply, and I know that mini splits are more efficient than window unit type ACs, would it be a bad idea to put one in the airstream? How efficient are typical camper ACs?

[Bubba L]

We installed a mini split in our 55 FC years ago. We placed the air handler underneath the rear bed with return air vent. We ducted the air and balanced with in-line dampers. Last year Pioneer came out with a 10,000 BTU 115vac under bench inverter heat pump air conditioner. A friend of ours in College Station has installed one in their early 60s Airstream. They’re in the middle of their renovation so don’t know how well it works yet. Our conventional mini split in our 55 works great and quiet. Good luck

[Young_Buck]

So I watched 2 videos on replacing the subfloor and in one they stuck it into the ctrack and in the other he pulled the shell, put the floor on the frame, then put the track on, then dropped the shell. Is the end result of these different? It would be nice not to have to pull the shell, but for a more durable floor I would

[Young_Buck]

So I now have a question that I don’t expect any kind of a straightforward answer to, I just want general opinions based on experience, which, as I have none, will be immensely helpful.
Would it be worth it to buy a gutted airstream (no inner skin, no insulation) and build it out simply and solidly, keeping AC efficiency as the priority, or would it be better to pay twice as much for a unit with the old insulation and inner skin along with some of the other interior. I guess another way to ask this is: how good is the insulation in a ‘70s vintage airstream compared to one with new spray foam or mineral wool insulation?
Please tell me your thoughts and thanks in advance for them

[overlander64]

Greetings Young_Buck!

Originally Posted by Young_Buck

So I now have a question that I don’t expect any kind of a straightforward answer to, I just want general opinions based on experience, which, as I have none, will be immensely helpful.
Would it be worth it to buy a gutted airstream (no inner skin, no insulation) and build it out simply and solidly, keeping AC efficiency as the priority, or would it be better to pay twice as much for a unit with the old insulation and inner skin along with some of the other interior. I guess another way to ask this is: how good is the insulation in a ‘70s vintage airstream compared to one with new spray foam or mineral wool insulation?
Please tell me your thoughts and thanks in advance for them

You need to keep in mind that the interior skins are part of the structural integrity of an Airstream trailer. It is not advisable to tow one without its inner skins in place unless you have provided sufficient bracing between the ribs and the floor/chassis.

There is approximately 2" of space between the interior and exterior skins for insulation, and in Vintage Airstreams, that is typically filled with 1.5" of fiberglass batt type insulation.

You will also find that the more interior components that you have to work with the more patterns you will have to work from. Without the original interior pieces, there is a tremendous amount of scribing and trimming to get interior pieces to fit up against the curves of the walls/ceiling.

I understand your desire to completely rehab a Vintage Airstream, but if budget is an issue, typically the most economical path to a Vintage Airstream is to spend the time searching for a pristine original. There are several floor plans available over the years that you may find quite acceptable -- try checking out the pdfs of Airstream Literature from the era that you wish to purchase -- these pdfs are found on the Airstream website.

While it isn't necessarily easy to find the pristine 30 to 50 year old Airstreams, they are out there and can be found with time and a little patience. It took me a little over six months to find my 31 year old 1964 Overlander Land Yacht International in 1995 , and I looked at over 60 trailers, traveling in a 500 mile radius of my home. It was a two owner trailer that had been fastidiously maintained by both owners, and still appeared like new both inside and out. It was camp ready, and I didn't have to make any changes for over three years. Beginning in 1998, I began systematically upgrading certain systems -- new Fantastic Fan Vents, New Furnace, new Water Heater, and new Power Converter. Then in 1999. it was a new 3-Way Dometic Americana Refrigerator and a Coleman Mach Series Air Conditioner (this was before that I knew that the Armstrong Air Conditioner was superior quality and could have been rebuilt for far less than the less desirable Coleman). From that point forward, every few years, I would add other items that included 300 Watts of Solar, a 1,000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, New 40-Pound Worthington Aluminum LP Tanks, New Upholstery and Foam, New Draperies, New Seamless Vinyl Floor Covering, Refurbishing Cabinets/Furniture with WATCO Danish Oil in Golden Oak, Professional Restoration/Refinishing of Bathroom Fixtures, Custom Sponge Painting of walls/ceiling to resemble ZolaTone finish, Restored Dropleaf Dining Table, New Custom Mattresses, Professional Polish and Plasticoat, and a ZipDee Awning Package. The only major repair that I have had was rear end separation repair a few months after purchase that was the result of the second owner's rear bumper mount for the spare tire, that was resolved by my Airstream dealer with no further problems. I am looking at new axles next season.

I calculate that including my original purchase price in 1995 and all upgrades over the past 30 years, I have less than $35,000 in my Overlander. It is still road ready, and I have a 225 mile rally trip planned in June, and an 800+ mile trip planned to the International Rally in York, Pennsylvania in August. Between the first two owners and myself, I estimate that the trailer has covered close to 300,000 miles as it has made two trips to Alaska, at least one trip to Mexico, as well as many Western US trips while it was in the hands of the first owner and myself.

Good luck with your investigation and planning!

Kevin