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cosmo9404 · 06-15-2008, 12:26 PM

I just purchased a new refrigerator scoop from Inland RV to replace the old one on our '66 Carvel (which was crumbling at the rivets). While marking out the outline for installation, we found that the curve of the scoop does not exactly conform to the curve of the Caravel.

Here's the question: do we start riveting it in and hope that the fiberglass is flexible enough to conform as we work our way down or...some other solution?

C Johnson · 06-15-2008, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmo9404

I just purchased a new refrigerator scoop from Inland RV to replace the old one on our '66 Caravel (which was crumbling at the rivets). While marking out the outline for installation, we found that the curve of the scoop does not exactly conform to the curve of the Caravel.

Here's the question: do we start riveting it in and hope that the fiberglass is flexible enough to conform as we work our way down or...some other solution?

I have never seen the re-pro from Inland RV. Does it seem somewhat flexible ? I guess it would depend on how wide a gap you have to close. If it were a close fit and I could hold it in place with no gap then I would install it.

cosmo9404 · 06-15-2008, 12:51 PM

I haven't worked with a lot of fiberglass so I don't know its limits. The scoop seems like it may have a little play. There is a gap in the middle that's about 1/2 inch and a gap of about an inch at the bottom of the scoop. I'm comfortable forcing the scoop into the 1/2 inch gap...it's the 1 inch+ gap that concerns me.

I think what we'll end up doing is installing the scoop higher up than the original (better fit) and then *sigh* rebuilding the upper cabinets to accomodate the change in scoop location.

Wouldn't it be interesting to have an airstream project that didn't require starting 3 more projects to finish the first?

overlander63 · 06-15-2008, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmo9404

I haven't worked with a lot of fiberglass so I don't know its limits. The scoop seems like it may have a little play. There is a gap in the middle that's about 1/2 inch and a gap of about an inch at the bottom of the scoop. I'm comfortable forcing the scoop into the 1/2 inch gap...it's the 1 inch+ gap that concerns me.

I think what we'll end up doing is installing the scoop higher up than the original (better fit) and then *sigh* rebuilding the upper cabinets to accomodate the change in scoop location.

Wouldn't it be interesting to have an airstream project that didn't require starting 3 more projects to finish the first?

All plumbing requires 3 trips to the hardware store, which I reaffirmed this afternoon

. So, you are not alone in the "3 trips/3 projects" boat.
Does it look like the wall is distorted, or does it look like the scoop is distorted?

cosmo9404 · 06-15-2008, 05:32 PM

I doesn't look like the wall is distorted...and it doesn't look like the scoop is distorted. They just don't match. Which is why we all love our Airstreams right? No two are quite alike.

C Johnson · 06-16-2008, 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmo9404

I haven't worked with a lot of fiberglass so I don't know its limits. The scoop seems like it may have a little play. There is a gap in the middle that's about 1/2 inch and a gap of about an inch at the bottom of the scoop. I'm comfortable forcing the scoop into the 1/2 inch gap...it's the 1 inch+ gap that concerns me.

I think what we'll end up doing is installing the scoop higher up than the original (better fit) and then *sigh* rebuilding the upper cabinets to accommodate the change in scoop location.

Wouldn't it be interesting to have an airstream project that didn't require starting 3 more projects to finish the first?

I think you are on the right track there. Don't forget to seal it to the wall.

I don't think I have ever done anything on my Caravel that didn't require any less than 2 other projects in unison.

Wait a minute, I don't think I have done very many projects at all that didn't require another project to complete the original project.

How about some pics of the finished product. I'd love to see how that re-pro scoop looks.

cosmo9404 · 07-06-2008, 12:28 PM

Pictures of the scoop installed. We've since rebuilt the cabinets around it--added about an inch further out so I guess you can't really complain about the extra space. You can see from the pics the gap I mentioned. Took some sealing but it's gap free now.

doorgunner · 07-06-2008, 04:29 PM

Me, myself and I, (that's a quorum) says
This thing is crying for a piece of trim!
How about some shinny silver welt!
Or something to really make it "pop" in the eyes of a interiour decorator.
just throwing things out there, had to get out of the sun

SSTANK05 · 12-11-2008, 06:41 AM

What did you use to seal the "gap"? I am about to install the same replacement scoop from Inland RV on our 65 Caravelle and I have the same situation - the curve profile does not match the existing wall.
Thanks for your help !

Distantdrummer · 12-11-2008, 07:42 AM

Looks pretty good to me !!
Well you made it work, so all's well that ends well..sometimes.

Was the original made of ABS plastic? Why do suppose it was "crumbling at the rivets"? Travel-rattle perhaps? ABS lip repair is very do-able and an example (not on refer flue) is highlighted somewhere on this forum IIRC.
Did you discard the old flue?

I am curious whether you ordered your part model specific to your AS.
That is did Inland ask for your particulars?

Did Inland inform you that the part might not fit your particular year and floorplan model exactly?
or did they say it was a universal fit or generic or some such nominal fit?
Was returning it an option?

I think I have read that Inland Andy had this part (as well as others) specially aftermarket made (and improved). It is good business reasonable that he would not be inclined to have many different models made if there was very little difference in them.
I would hope that he might tell us exactly which year model the original he sent to be duplicated was from.

Also I wish we had a reliable record of the change dates and general specs for the times that Airstream changed the profile of the arc or radius of the fuselage itself.
From pix of assorted rear-ends it is obvious there are variations.
BTW I notice a similar revelation at the beach

Alumanutz · 12-11-2008, 11:42 AM

Hey folks, check out my blog posting from a few days ago. It shows how I repaired mine
1966 Safari ( HUGO)

NUTZ

Distantdrummer · 12-11-2008, 01:42 PM

Yep Alumanutz that's the write-up I'd seen and recalled. So it was on a refer-flue after all. Guess that answers my q as to if they are originally made of ABS.

Hope the rest of my q's get answered as well.

BTW the Oateys ABS cement comes in a clear (milky) too. But it is hard to find and often has to be special ordered. It is product #30923 and called Special ABS Milky Clear. At least it was available when I ordered it in July 2005.
Sometimes the black makes no difference but sometimes you just need the clear.

vinstream · 12-11-2008, 02:55 PM

I would ask for my money back it clearly does not fit the curve of the wall... Is it even for the right year? Fiberglass molds are hard to do right... A pinch welt may do the trick to hide it but why hide something that is not right? You may want to scride a line and cut the lip part off all together and then uses "L" aluminum riveted to both the wall and fiberglass... Vin

purman · 12-11-2008, 04:04 PM

Can you find one made of plastic... I thought thats what the original ones were.. Plus they flex easier. maybe vintage trailer has them

modarch · 12-11-2008, 06:11 PM

I also bought one from Andy, and it doesn't fit as well as I had hoped. When I bought it he noted that they had a new design that was fresh from the mould that was supposed to be an improvement. You would hope that for that much $$ it would. Mine is still in its box until I figure out what to do with it. Unfortunately, there aren't many options out there.

cosmo9404 · 12-14-2008, 11:38 AM

We used (a lot) of silicone to seal the gap and ran a thin bead all around the rest of the scoop.

We looked everywhere for a scoop and Inland was really the only place we could find one--it's generic so you can't specify year or model. However, the gap is mostly hidden by the cabinets. Another option we considered was having a scoop fabricated out of aluminum.

As far as the cracking around the rivets on the original scoop, it's hard to say why it happened. I'm not sure how long fiberglass lasts but it was just really brittle like old plastic. However, we'll be happy to get 40 more years out of this scoop.

Inland RV Center, In · 12-14-2008, 12:06 PM

The reefer scoop is an interesting part.

We took patterns of several late 60's, through the 70's trailers.

Comparing them on a bench was interesting.

The main bows are the same.

None of them matched, "exactly," with others.

We decided to create an average size.

The only conclusion one can make, is that the shell obviouslt changes shape to some degree.

Sikaflex, is a good sealer to use.

We will in the future ship a tube of sealer with each scoop.

Modarch, call us Monday and we will ship a tube of Sikaflex to you no charge.

Andy

modarch · 01-01-2009, 06:08 PM

Here is the detail that I plan on using to hide the gaps that are created by a non-conforming vent scoop. I plan on using 1/8" thick flat aluminum bar stock. It will curve with the profile of the trailer.

The quanity of 1/8" x 1/2" stock is based on how big the gap is. The bigger the gap, the more layers you will need to add. The good news for me is that the largest gaps are hidden behind by roof locker above the kitchen, so this detail will only occur at the visible places on the backsplash.

I would like to use olympics to install this bar stock, but there are three reasons why I don't think I am going to do it. 1) I am not sure if the length of rivet needed will make a good connection. 2) I don't want to order a hand full of custom lenthed ones for this detail and 3) I don't think the shaver can get that close to the fiberglass scoop without causing damage to the scoop.