Metal Framing Studs from Home Depot

[CA_Tallguy]

Sorry if this has been asked/answered but searching for terms related to framing and metal bring up a LOT of results that are not what I'm looking for. I'm wondering if the metal framing studs from home depot and that are frequently used in commercial interior walls are suitable and recommended for interior projects? They seem like a good, lightweight material. Looks like they are galvanized steel.

I am thinking of using them to build a platform for a rear bed. Seems like a frame built using these could then be skinned with a thin material, similar to how I think some other stuff is constructed in an Airstream.

Thanks in advance for your advice and expertise!

[dkottum]

The metal studs are used for non-structural walls so I wonder if they are strong enough as a supporting frame for a bed. They could however gain a lot of structural strength if plywood was screwed to them, spacing the crews fairly close together.

doug k

[SStar]

You might want to look into metal perling as is used in metal buildings. It is strong for the weight, you can weld or bolt it, easy to cut with a cutoff saw.

[Wabbiteer]

Steel partition stud, the small firring strip top-hat & metal track might do famously. Note they are made for controlled environments and the levels of possible humidity in a trailer in storage etc. might defeat the barely-there galvanizing provided to keep them from rusting in transit or before they get covered up.

[CA_Tallguy]

Just a quick update with some in-progress photos. Hard to get the area back there into a camera frame!

I almost scuttled the plan to use these studs but came back around and decided to give it a whirl. I'm also repurposing the little metal storage bins from under the twin beds. I think they'll actually end up strengthening this whole structure.

In these photos, the studs and bins are mostly just mocked up and not screwed together yet. This is far from complete and more will be added (hopefully not much as I want to keep it light as possible). The header stud laying across the bins still needs to be notched for the outside-sides, similar to how it is on the inside.

The main worry I have with this is that the metal is somewhat soft, so I am going to need to be careful to distribute the weight on the structure. I will probably sheath either the bottom of the bed or the top of the framed structure (with large holes cut in the to for access) or maybe even both. As I'm starting to fasten things together, I'm having fewer fears about the distribution of the weight.

[rogerdodger]

Interesting! I am ready to frame out twin beds, using 1x2 wood. keep us informed how metal works out.

[chromis]

I'd think some good hardwood 1x2's would be sufficient.

I made a mahogany face frame and a stick frame using some poplar.. The back frame is attached to the wall, rather than curve the frame towards the front angled it.. It is put together using good water resistant glue and Kreg joints.


I filled in with extra support and put 1/2" plywood ontop..


Hehe though this "Adult Erector Set" would be way more cool
80/20® Inc. - The Industrial Erector Set®

[Wabbiteer]

I've spent some hundreds of hours on crews doing some neat custom work with metal framing - churches, studios, exterior alcoves, blah blah.

Nest them, fabricate box-beams.
Web corners for diagonal bracing.
Add vertical diagonals, even X bracing, in running wall lengths.

Get creative with joints, leave extra fastener tabs cut from the wide-web part of the stud bent to match beam when splicing in; Keep both nested pieces of box beam as uncut and continuous as possible and cut the profile out of connecting beam & use with the extra tabs from wide-web cut^ for intersecting beam, weave in side tabs to keep finish side layer smoother.

Double or triple up on steel or stainless steel pop-rivets for their nearly flush surface (versus screws).

Skin (your sheath?) both sides to increase rigidity like the Airstream shell.

Adding adhesive or 3m extreme double-sided tape when you skin over the frame would boost strength - If you can get all the oil off the steel.

[CA_Tallguy]

Originally Posted by rogerdodger

Interesting! I am ready to frame out twin beds, using 1x2 wood. keep us informed how metal works out.

This is definitely an experiment and I have my doubts about the metal studs. But on the other hand, they are very, very easy to work with and they are pretty light. As it comes together, I am more and more sold on the strength, even without skinning/sheathing them.

One concern is if the screws will work themselves loose with movement of the trailer. I was going to pop rivet them but my home depot only had aluminum rivets and I think steel rivets on steel studs would be better. Might end up going back to add some rivet reinforcements if needed.

I will indeed update this thread with info on how they wear and any issues that arise.

[CA_Tallguy]

Originally Posted by chromis

I'd think some good hardwood 1x2's would be sufficient. I made a mahogany face frame and a stick frame using some poplar.. The back frame is attached to the wall, rather than curve the frame towards the front angled it.. It is put together using good water resistant glue and Kreg joints.

I agree. If my woodworking skills were better, and if I were better equipped with tools, I might have gone that route. But on the other hand, using metal substructure feels "right" with what I have seen of airstream construction in this 70's trailer.

I'm out at a campground, and the metal studs are very easy to work with just having a cordless drill/screwdriver and some tin snips. Eventually, I will want to skin this structure with some wood to fill in around the bed and to create some furniture/cabinet looks and features to it.

[CA_Tallguy]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

Double or triple up on steel or stainless steel pop-rivets for their nearly flush surface (versus screws).

Any idea where I can find these? That was going to be my plan to start with but the home depot near me didn't have any steel rivets! They only had aluminum rivets except for an assortment kit.

[Wabbiteer]

Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts, F911 Bolts <--- my favorite online fastener vendor.

[CA_Tallguy]

Couple more pics with the bed frame removed. Kind of wish I went an inch lower to clear the 12 volt outlet on the back a bit better. I'm going to build a little box to the rear of the bed and just below the curtain rail. But hmmm... now I just realized I can't have a flip up, hinged top on it with the rail in the way. Maybe it will just be open top with recesses down to stow things like reading materials and for access to the outlets.

Most of what is shown here is just set in place and not fastened yet. I also have not cut in the outside ledge of the boxes salvaged from under the old twin beds. I will probably run a 1x2 under that lip for added strength and so it can be a bit more of a structural element to tie the two other cross members that will be going in there together.

[CA_Tallguy]

Project going on hold for the evening! I'm so excited -- just noticed a growing clump of silver near me in this campground in San Diego, so I stopped by and said hello -- turns out it's the San Diego WBCCI chapter! They invited me over to happy hour. This will be my first WBCCI experience!

[CA_Tallguy]

Quick update in case anyone is following this thread. The project is taking a lot longer and is a lot more work than expected. I decided to scrap the outside wall to outside wall crossmembers that were spanning the storage bins. Cutting into that piece to in two places to let it sit over the bin made it lose far too much structural integrity.

Instead, I am building 3 inverted U shaped braces down the center to tie together the two side and to form a tunnel down the middle. I'd like to be able to use the back hatch to load in long items -- perhaps even with the option to remove a panel or open a door on the front of the bed so things could extend beyond the bed and into the hallway (should the need ever arise).

The resulting structure will be pretty darn solid. I will just need to tie it to the outside walls in a few places and possibly add a support for the storage bins. And then there is certainly a lot of skinning and finish work that I have not even started thinking about yet. And I probably won't start thinking about it until I've enjoyed at least a few nights rest in the new bed!

[wxbuoy]

Thanks for the update, keep us posted!

How were the cocktails? What did they think of the framing idea?

[Wabbiteer]

3 inverted U shaped braces down the center...

Any drawings or doodles to share?

[CA_Tallguy]

Originally Posted by chromis

it is put together using good water resistant glue and Kreg joints.

I've just learned what a kreg jig is after seeing it mentioned a few times on the forum and may just have to give this a shot. Your joints were what u was talking about when I said my woodworking skills were not that great but it looks like the kreg system might be just the thing! I will probably try it using it for the bath and kitchen, and mag have used it instead of the metal for the bed had I known a about it.

Heck, maybe I'll start over in the bed if I like it enough -- it is still just the metal underframe and is a bit higher than optimal right now. I have been thinking about how to finish it off with wood. The nice thing about working in wood from the start, I'm thinking, is that a lot of structure and finish work can be one and the same.

[chromis]

Threw the dinette together in an afternoon. took longer to varnish..

Used biscuits or dowels before, that tool made life way easier..

!! A tip is to adjust your saw to be perfectly square, with a metal square

[slowmover]

Any update to this?