Glue removal from wall carpet

[KampFer]

Hi group,

I am restoring a 1997 airstream excella and removed all the carpets on the wall but the left over glue seems very hard to remove, tried with Googone but had no effects..

Anyone have been successful removing this stuff?

Thank you

Alexis

[kittmaster]

Originally Posted by KampFer

Hi group,

I am restoring a 1997 airstream excella and removed all the carpets on the wall but the left over glue seems very hard to remove, tried with Googone but had no effects..

Anyone have been successful removing this stuff?

Thank you

Alexis

Acetone, not nail polish. You can get it from Lowes.

Try a small area FIRST.

I've done it multiple times, however, I'm not entirely sure how it will react with aluminum, so do a VERY small area to ensure that it doesn't react with the metal. After I type this I'll do a search to ensure there are no known interactions with Acetone and Aluminum, if memory serves, you should be fine, but I'll check to be sure.

[kittmaster]

I just googled these two words directly:

Aluminum acetone

nothing else and got a myriad of responses across multiple disciplines all pointing to that the two do not interact and is "safe" persay.

Here is a very good video I found on YouTube about it in the race car environment:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIcDvpiUbbk

So that should get you on your way.

NOTE: Acetone is highly flammable, so ensure there are NO spark hazards, heat hazards or anything else.... here is an excerpt from wiki:

Flammability
The most hazardous property of acetone is its extreme flammability. At temperatures greater than acetone's flash point of −20 °C (−4 °F), air mixtures of between 2.5% and 12.8% acetone, by volume, may explode or cause a flash fire. Vapors can flow along surfaces to distant ignition sources and flash back. Static discharge may also ignite acetone vapors, though acetone has a very high ignition initiation energy point and therefore accidental ignition is rare. Even pouring or spraying acetone over red-glowing coal will not ignite it, due to the high concentration of vapour and the cooling effect of evaporation of the liquid.[50] It auto-ignites at 465 °C (869 °F). Auto-ignition temperature is also dependent upon the exposure time, thus at some tests it is quoted as 525 °C. Also, industrial acetone is likely to contain a small amount of water which also inhibits ignition.

Good luck

[KampFer]

Thank you,

I will try do it on a warmer day, being the winter here and the heater on most of the time, not sure heater + acetone will be a good mix :P

I will try with the acetone

[SuzyHomemakr]

Maybe use the acetone in conjunction with a knife blade on a multi-tool?

[Ken G]

Perhaps lacquer thinner - but very volatile and hard on lungs without extensive precautions.

[Airkeeper]

Acetone is ammable so do eliminate all ignition sources and provide plenty of positive ventilation (I.e. fans blowing to the camper rather than pulling air out; as electric fans are also a source of ignition). The most common agent for removing paint from aluminum aircraft is methylene chloride (chemical name is dichloromethane). But solvent has a very high evaporation rate and is toxic. With proper control including ventilation it can be done safely.

[KampFer]

Thank you, buy I think methylene chloride is banned here or is not easily obtainable.

As for a blade on a multitoool the problem is that is scratches the aluminum tried on a little spot.

[Airkeeper]

Methylene chloride is the main ingredient in most furniture paint removers that you can purchase at a Home Depot or Lowe’s. Probably not banned for your purpose. Where are you located?

[Cochita]

I removed the carpet from the walls of my 1997 Safari. Citristrip worked fairly well and it less toxic than some other strippers. However, it is rather messy. Pure orange oil worked very well on the adhesive when I removed the headliner from the ceiling. It also smells great! I used Medina Orange Oil that I found in the garden section at Lowe’s.

[KampFer]

The headliner is quite easy to remove with Googone , it's a softer glue but the one behind the mouse fur... Outch, I still need to try with acetone, tried to find some at home Depot and other hardware store but they are all out...

[TimeForFun]

What I used when I removed mine was a paint stripper that had Methylene chloride as one of the components. After most of the adhesive was removed I cleaned up the residue with acetone. It was not a fast job but got it done. Removed all the headliner, and the front carpet to remove the wall to be able to repair the floor in the front. Replaced the carpet but left the ceiling bare metal. Worked out great

[perri]

Originally Posted by Cochita

I removed the carpet from the walls of my 1997 Safari. Citristrip worked fairly well and it less toxic than some other strippers. However, it is rather messy. Pure orange oil worked very well on the adhesive when I removed the headliner from the ceiling. It also smells great! I used Medina Orange Oil that I found in the garden section at Lowe’s.

This thread has the info I need!

Question: Does anyone in this thread know of a place I can see After photos of the (Excella or Safari or other) headliner removal? I want to know what I'll be left with. If there are after photos of the carpet removal, that's great, too. I'm considering an Excella, but I'm resistant to the headliner. We cook in our vintage rig and I clean food and grease off surfaces, including the ceiling. I prefer a hard, hygienic surface I can scrub. Not doing surgery or anything, but you get the idea. Regards and as always, thanks for sharing your experiences here.