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Old 10-05-2020, 07:45 PM   #201
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Remaking exterior panels is a real handful. I made a simple side wrap around the outriggers and struggled with that simple job. Sheet metal work is a specific skill.

Replacing that front sheet looks difficult. But the end result looks great. I like the 2x4 to hold everything up while you made the replacement and got it riveted in place.

It's going to be a great old Liner.

David
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Old 10-06-2020, 06:43 AM   #202
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1956 22' Safari
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Looks great and just think how many polishing hours you have saved. Almost worth it from that standpoint alone. - Mark
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Old 10-08-2020, 08:51 AM   #203
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Just marvelous work. I know that I wouldnít have the skill to replace that panel. So glad that the Liner ended up in your hands.

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Old 12-30-2020, 10:39 PM   #204
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Hats off to you who take on these trailers that are decades older. Nice work. Jerry
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Old 02-01-2021, 09:56 AM   #205
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1948 22' Liner
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I really appreciate everyones support! Itís been a few months since our last post but we have managed to get some work time in on the Liner. After we replaced the front lower skin, I have been removing front end segments and evaluating each of them as they are removed. While trying to keep as many of the original exterior panels as possible we have already made the decision on several to duplicate them for replacement. Some of the surface pitting was very deep and would take an excessive amount of sanding to try to make it not as noticeable. Before I started removing them, I had envisioned that the lower edges of the segment panels were a straight edge but soon found that was not the case. Each panel appears to be cut by hand and the edges have several slight curves to the finished edge. I use the old panel as a template for the new panel including any slight deviations in the edges.
Safe Travels!!
Tim
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Old 02-02-2021, 08:26 AM   #206
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Don Pedro Island , Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRivet View Post
While trying to keep as many of the original exterior panels as possible we have already made the decision on several to duplicate them for replacement. Some of the surface pitting was very deep and would take an excessive amount of sanding to try to make it not as noticeable. I use the old panel as a template for the new panel including any slight deviations in the edges.
Safe Travels!!
Tim
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Tim when I removed my inside panels I traced them and cut them by hand...the one thing I learned however is to never use the rivet holes as gospel ...no matter how much you try they never seem to line up.
I saved my original 13 panels in case some one out there needs them as patterns.
Keep up the good work.
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Old 02-03-2021, 11:29 AM   #207
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1949 18' Trailwind
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How did you make the edge?

Hello! I'm really loving following your build! It's great opening email and seeing something I'm excited to read.

I have to replace my entire rear endcap. As you can see it's chopped up beyond repair. I salvaged a donor from a liner that had been crushed in the center, but it also has a few that are toast. I'm wondering how you're going to create that bent lower edge on them. I've seen people make modified edge rollers, but that's way out of my wheel house. Did you come up with something different?

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2021, 11:15 AM   #208
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We have had a bead roller made that replicates the edge perfectly, it cost a good amount of money to develop, but we would be happy work with you in making new panels!
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Old 02-13-2021, 02:32 PM   #209
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Island trader- I agree with you on not relying on the exact hole placement. There are holes that I have found that are right on the money but quite a few have been double drilled overlapping each other by a third or half. I have been leaving the questionable holes un-drilled until I do a complete reassembly with clecos to assure the fit is correct and then drill the new holes. The more I get into the disassembly of the Liner I get the feel that the workers were rushed when they were assembling it.

KellySLC49 - these late 1940s trailers are such great project trailers if you can find them even when you have to do extensive reconstruction. You were very lucky to find the salvage trailer to pull the rear window frame from. In post #178, I gave a description of the method that Iím using to reproduce the panels. For better results, I did change the upper die of the bead roller to a narrow tipping die to produce a better outcome. The results are pretty much identical to the original bead. This tipping die came with the Bead Roller that I purchased from Eastwood.com. The lower die I had turned by a local machine shop for about $70. I have found that the individual panels were hand cut and do not have a consistently straight edge. Without the missing ends of the panels it will be a challenge to make an exact replacement but it can be done with a bit of trial and error to get a good fit. I have been tracing patterns of each panel on the front end as we disassemble them. I would be glad to forward full size copyís of them to you once we have completed the disassembly. These should get you pretty close to having the missing pieces of the puzzle. The only thing left would be the bead run along the lower edge. I had no experience with the bead roller until this project so it took a bit of trial and error to work out the process. Please feel free to PM me if you need to contact me for any additional information.
Safe Travels!!
Tim
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Old 03-06-2021, 09:05 AM   #210
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We are making progress on the front end segments as time allows. The right front has been almost reassembled with only having to replace two of the top most panels due to excessive corrosion. The remaining segments in that area were cleaned and straightened up with lots of time working out 70+ years of dings and dents along with lots of polishing. The easy way would have been to fabricate all new panels but we are trying to save as much of the original skin as possible. We have known from the beginning of this restoration that the entire shell will need to be re-riveted due to the amount of corrosion and damage. Itís has always been in the back of our mind to this point that the entire shell will need to be reconstructed so itís great to actually have the shell finally coming together in its final form.

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Old 03-06-2021, 07:32 PM   #211
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That is an impressive row of clecos you have there. I've not seen that many in use before. Remaking Liner exterior skins is quite a feat I can imagine. Then Airstream got it down to 13 segments, then 7, and then 5, and finally 3.

I think you Liner will leak rain water until you get that last segment made.

David
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Old 03-06-2021, 10:02 PM   #212
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Looking great, well done!
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Old 03-07-2021, 07:52 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
That is an impressive row of clecos you have there. I've not seen that many in use before.
David
I bet he still did not have enough
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Old 03-07-2021, 10:26 AM   #214
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1949 18' Trailwind
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Replacement End Cap Patterns

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRivet View Post
Island trader- I agree with you on not relying on the exact hole placement. There are holes that I have found that are right on the money but quite a few have been double drilled overlapping each other by a third or half. I have been leaving the questionable holes un-drilled until I do a complete reassembly with clecos to assure the fit is correct and then drill the new holes. The more I get into the disassembly of the Liner I get the feel that the workers were rushed when they were assembling it.

KellySLC49 - these late 1940s trailers are such great project trailers if you can find them even when you have to do extensive reconstruction. You were very lucky to find the salvage trailer to pull the rear window frame from. In post #178, I gave a description of the method that Iím using to reproduce the panels. For better results, I did change the upper die of the bead roller to a narrow tipping die to produce a better outcome. The results are pretty much identical to the original bead. This tipping die came with the Bead Roller that I purchased from Eastwood.com. The lower die I had turned by a local machine shop for about $70. I have found that the individual panels were hand cut and do not have a consistently straight edge. Without the missing ends of the panels it will be a challenge to make an exact replacement but it can be done with a bit of trial and error to get a good fit. I have been tracing patterns of each panel on the front end as we disassemble them. I would be glad to forward full size copyís of them to you once we have completed the disassembly. These should get you pretty close to having the missing pieces of the puzzle. The only thing left would be the bead run along the lower edge. I had no experience with the bead roller until this project so it took a bit of trial and error to work out the process. Please feel free to PM me if you need to contact me for any additional information.
Safe Travels!!
Tim
Attachment 388648
Wow! Your beautiful Liner is really coming together ... literally! I'm afraid I'd probably ruin a few panels getting that bead right. I could see myself rolling it right off the edge and ruining one or two. The way I see it, I have two options - do it myself (where I'd need your patterns), or ask (beg & plead) someone who's done it before to cut and roll a set for me. Since some of you mentioned him, I reached out to Colin Hyde about just buying a set, but got no response. Maybe he's not doing them anymore. If anyone who's done this before wants to make another set, I would buy them in a hot minute. I also have to remake the interior, but with no bead and the outside shell finished, we could handle that.

On another note, you mention cleaning up some of the little dents and dings on the segments you're keeping. What have you found works? I've messed around a little on some scrap, but haven't been brave enough to try it on the actual trailer. I remember seeing a roller made by someone on these forums years ago. It was a steal at $50, but at that time I couldn't afford to buy it. Job loss and cancer (all is well now) set everything back. What method are you using? Did you take any before & afters?

Since we all love pics, here are a couple pics from when we bought her before we started taking her apart. I feel bad we've had her for close to 15 years now and all we've done is rebuild the frame and floor. She's in pretty nice shape other than that monstrosity we removed from the back.

Reading your posts is inspiring me to get going!
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Old 03-07-2021, 10:43 AM   #215
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Beaded Panels

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We have had a bead roller made that replicates the edge perfectly, it cost a good amount of money to develop, but we would be happy work with you in making new panels!
If by "happy to work with you," you mean "make them and send them to you," I'd love that! My dad had all these tools and the know-how but he passed 5 years ago. I don't know that I have the skill even with someone walking me through it.

PM me and lets chat!
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:37 AM   #216
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She's in pretty nice shape other than that monstrosity we removed from the back.
Oh it is kinda cute...Sort of a cross between sponge bob and R2D2
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Old 03-13-2021, 07:18 AM   #217
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Wait ....

Wait! Who do you think runs the show around here? I mean pneumatic rivet gun around here? MrRivet in not doing all that by himself.

Actually we make a pretty amazing team riveting together. We have our system down and donít deviate. The actual riveting doesnít take long itís all the prep and care that MrRivet has taken to try and save each segment of this front end cap that we can.

This week MrRivet spent removing and determining which front drivers side end cap segments could be saved. And yes ... a few original segments will have some blemishes that we have determined we can live with. She is 73 years old and should have a few! Today we begin reassembling the other side!

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Safe Travels ~

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Old 03-13-2021, 07:31 PM   #218
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Heck, I'm the same age and have many more blemishes. I wonder if MrRivet could rivet on some new skins here and there.

It is a lot of work building an Airstream in the back yard. You folks are doing great. It is going to be a very special Airstream.

David
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Old 03-14-2021, 08:33 AM   #219
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David, I usually donít put a cleco in every hole during the fitting of panels but I found that on the segment panels I needed to do it to assure a tight test fit where the two panels meet. It involved putting the panel on then checking to see where the beaded edge needed working then removing the panel working the edge and then reinstalling it. This had to be done multiple times in most panels. Towards the end of the work days the old hand was getting ďCleco ClawĒ from installing and removing clecos! There were several times that I was close to using all of the clecos that I have.
Kellyslc49, as far as dents and dings I am careful not to overwork the aluminum when trying to remove them. With the aluminum being so soft it is easy to do and you can make it worse if your not careful. Try to use soft faced tools where you can and use very light taps when hammering. The technique that I use quite a bit is called ďoff dollyĒ . Itís a metal working term used by auto body techs. Do a search on the internet and lots of results will pop up. I would keep in mind that you will probably not be able to completely remove all damage on severe dents but if your careful when working it you can get a pretty good outcome. The roller that you refer to is made by Aerowood and I have used it to remove or lessen quite a few dents. I think itís is an invaluable tool well worth its cost. You can probably PM him and check to see if he is still producing them. Attached is a picture of some of the tools that I have been using and a before and after if one of the more severe dents that we had.
The Shop Supervisor(MsRivet) is available for riveting this weekend so we hope to post new progress pictures soon. She is getting pretty good on the gun!!
Safe Travels!!
Tim
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Old 03-25-2021, 09:09 PM   #220
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I still have some rollers.
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