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Old 06-28-2023, 03:05 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Renault4 View Post
Thanks, I think I just followed the recommended setting for lead-acid batteries in the Victron Manual; where else might I look? The Interstate documentation doesnít help, maybe the converter manual?
Looks like you were correct on this after looking through the Victron information. They do recommend setting the charged voltage level 0.2v or 0.3v below the float charge level for your converter.
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Old 06-28-2023, 06:51 AM   #22
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Just curious, why wouldnít you mount the shunt inside the trailer where the negative wire comes in from the batts?
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Old 06-28-2023, 07:29 AM   #23
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Just curious, why wouldnít you mount the shunt inside the trailer where the negative wire comes in from the batts?
In most installations there are are other things attached to the negatives on the batteries (the jack, the solar port, and some have different negatives for the Inverter and Converter circuits). By placing the shunt inside, these additional wires would need to be relocated. For the most accurate readings, there can be nothing between attached to the batteries except the shunt
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Old 06-28-2023, 09:05 AM   #24
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Iím posting some screenshots of the VictronConnect app taken with three days of discharge/recharge patterns. Again, light load, just the refrigerator, and only the single 100W OEM solar panel to recharge, no shore power during this period. Iíd be interested in what the more experienced battery whisperers here can glean from the data, but so far, with a simplistic ( and admittedly unrealistic real life-) parameter set, itís not too bad!

Notice the drift in depth of discharge over the three days ( best seen in voltage plot); is that just a reflection of a difference in quality between solar and three stage converter recharge?
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Old 06-28-2023, 09:16 AM   #25
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In most installations there are are other things attached to the negatives on the batteries (the jack, the solar port, and some have different negatives for the Inverter and Converter circuits). By placing the shunt inside, these additional wires would need to be relocated. For the most accurate readings, there can be nothing between attached to the batteries except the shunt
I could have done that; it would have required I run the 2 gauge cable from the battery into the airstream to the battery minus side of the shunt and then the 2guage cable from the minus load side back out to the bus bar. My thinking was that I didnít want to mess with running cables into and out of the airstream and possibly breaking seals, etc in the process.
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Old 07-02-2023, 09:16 AM   #26
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Check what the base metal is in those common bus bars. Most of the ones that look like that are using brass, not copper. Brass has a higher resistance than copper. At lower amperages, not a big deal. At higher amperages, it could make a difference.

With regard to the location of the fuse, the fuse is there to protect the wiring. The battery has the highest potential amperage, so the fuse should be on the battery side of the wire. The inverter cable should have its own fuse coming off of the common bus bar.

For what it's worth, the BMV-712 has better Bluetooth range than the Smart Shunt. But if you don't need the remote display and longer range, the Smart Shunt is the way to go.
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Old 07-02-2023, 11:47 AM   #27
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Check what the base metal is in those common bus bars. Most of the ones that look like that are using brass, not copper. Brass has a higher resistance than copper. At lower amperages, not a big deal. At higher amperages, it could make a difference.

With regard to the location of the fuse, the fuse is there to protect the wiring. The battery has the highest potential amperage, so the fuse should be on the battery side of the wire. The inverter cable should have its own fuse coming off of the common bus bar.

For what it's worth, the BMV-712 has better Bluetooth range than the Smart Shunt. But if you don't need the remote display and longer range, the Smart Shunt is the way to go.
You are correct, it is nickel-plated brass, stated rating is 250A continuous for the whole unit, 20A intermittent for each terminal.
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Old 07-11-2023, 08:21 PM   #28
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More to close this particular chapter, here is the final installation with the battery tie-down re-installed as well as covers for all the exposed terminals.

Cheers all!
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Old 07-12-2023, 05:52 AM   #29
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Iíve enjoyed your post and just finished the wiring of my Battleborn lithium and Victron shunt yesterday so your recent post was timely. I just ordered my battery terminal covers last night and I need to figure out a new battery lock down plate as well since the batteries are larger.

The larger batteries also caused some other potential issues for me. The rivets for the Zamp solar a were installed from the outside in. The rivets were kinda large and have the potential for rubbing against one battery. It was kind of restrictive for me to drill them out. I adhered a thin metal plate to the side of the battery to protect it.

My threaded tie down rod also leaned more to the other battery so it was rubbing against it. I covered the rod with some (not heated) heat shrink rubber tubing to keep the threads from rubbing.

Great job on your install and know you will enjoy it.
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Old 07-17-2023, 12:00 PM   #30
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I thought I would post a picture of my just finished Lithium install since I kinda followed the same path as you.

Just got my terminal covers in. I couldn't find any specific ones for the Battleborn terminals so I just used the ones for lug connections and zip tied them on. I had some 1 1/4 wide steel plate left over from another project. Drilled a 1/2" hole thru it / wrapped in electrical tape and secured with a lock washer and nut.

Made some mistakes along way but that's the way it goes. I did remember, and suggest, that anyone raise their jack to whatever height you want for your install before removing your old batteries. I had to access behind the battery box for some things and that saved some potential headaches.
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Old 07-18-2023, 09:51 PM   #31
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Nice job!

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I thought I would post a picture of my just finished Lithium install since I kinda followed the same path as you.

Just got my terminal covers in. I couldn't find any specific ones for the Battleborn terminals so I just used the ones for lug connections and zip tied them on. I had some 1 1/4 wide steel plate left over from another project. Drilled a 1/2" hole thru it / wrapped in electrical tape and secured with a lock washer and nut.

Made some mistakes along way but that's the way it goes. I did remember, and suggest, that anyone raise their jack to whatever height you want for your install before removing your old batteries. I had to access behind the battery box for some things and that saved some potential headaches.
GOUSC, nicely done sir! Thatís a lot of gear to fit in the battery box but it looks very organized. The terminal covers are often overlooked but are really needed.
Bravo!
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Old 07-19-2023, 05:54 AM   #32
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GOUSC, nicely done sir! Thatís a lot of gear to fit in the battery box but it looks very organized. The terminal covers are often overlooked but are really needed.
Bravo!
Thanks Jeff. I couldnít have done it without your 24/7 assistance. You are the Man!

Iíd also like to thank CamperKC, NRYN and the OP who did similar installs and assisted me. Also, Link2dks who assisted me in obtaining the batteries. There really is a wealth of knowledge from the participants on this forum. It was of great assistance to me for this project.
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Old 10-09-2023, 02:05 PM   #33
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It would be great if we could have materials list - that would, at least, help me. Maybe sources as well?
Thanks, I really want to do this.
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Old 10-10-2023, 08:03 AM   #34
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I think I purchased almost everything from Amazon, I will be happy to go back over my order history, pull the relevant links and post them here.
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