Visit our Popular Forums

RCC · 03-15-2019, 03:56 AM

In our 25FB GT 2019 there is a hinged panel below the hall closet for water pump access. Unfortunately the water pump and strainer are farther to the rear (around a corner) and this makes access difficult. I think the shallow cabinet under the reefer would give additional access but the back panel of the cabinet will not fit through the cabinet door; this makes it impossible to remove. Has anyone come up with a way to remove the back panel in toto? It would be very difficult to cut it in a craftsman-like manner while it is in the cabinet. Winterizing and de-winterizing on a trip is simple and fast with ready access....

OTRA15 · 03-15-2019, 04:32 AM

If you remove that drop-down door, including its hinges and their baseplates, then unscrew that back panel’s attachment screws, won’t you be able to wiggle the back piece out?

If so, you could resize it a bit, or cut it into two pieces [making the top piece removable to just clear the hinges].

Peter

PS — Welcome to the forum!

RCC · 03-15-2019, 04:45 AM

Tried that. The panel is wider and just as tall as the opening. And no room to pivot the panel.

OTRA15 · 03-15-2019, 04:59 AM

Time to buy some new tools I guess!

If you drill 4 holes near each corner, located so you can get a saber saw to sit on the back panel, you can connect the four holes with saw cuts, and make a new back “door” for access. Will that give you enough access? Maybe just leave the space open, so that the pump will not freeze in the winter.

Your dealer might have good advice. I think there are other posts here on this. Will check when I get back home.

Good luck,

Peter

OTRA15 · 03-15-2019, 05:10 AM

PS possibly helpful search results FYI:

https://www.google.com/search?q=Glob...com&gws_rd=ssl

Will look more carefully later . . . on the road now.

Peter

OTRA15 · 03-15-2019, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rak187

I purchased my 2019 25FT Globetrotter in late January of ‘19. Been living in it full time for almost two weeks. I woke up yesterday with no hot water for my shower. Propane tanks are full. I have tried electric the propane then both together. Still nothing. My water heater red light is not on either. My water heater isn’t igniting.
Anyone have any ideas?

Grabbed the quote from another thread. Is your pump access similar? Same year/model I think.

Thanks,

Peter

PS click on orange arrow in quote to go to that thread.

link2dks · 03-15-2019, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCC

In our 25FB GT 2019 there is a hinged panel below the hall closet for water pump access. Unfortunately the water pump and strainer are farther to the rear (around a corner) and this makes access difficult. I think the shallow cabinet under the reefer would give additional access but the back panel of the cabinet will not fit through the cabinet door; this makes it impossible to remove. Has anyone come up with a way to remove the back panel in toto? It would be very difficult to cut it in a craftsman-like manner while it is in the cabinet. Winterizing and de-winterizing on a trip is simple and fast with ready access....

I think you could do what you need to without removing that panel. I have a 2019 27' GT with much better access to the pump b/c of the larger wardrobe but I would guess that the plumbing arrangement is the same.

In your first picture you can see the pumps outlet side connection, the inlet is exactly opposite to it and looks like it could be removed by reaching over the pump to unscrew it (no tools needed.)

The strainer is just before the pumps inlet. It has a plastic dome which must be unscrewed by hand to get to the screen for cleaning.

I'll be going to my trailer tomorrow and I'll get a picture so you can see the layout of the pump connections and strainer. Although your access is difficult I think it's doable.

Dave S

link2dks · 03-15-2019, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCC

In our 25FB GT 2019 there is a hinged panel below the hall closet for water pump access. Unfortunately the water pump and strainer are farther to the rear (around a corner) and this makes access difficult. I think the shallow cabinet under the reefer would give additional access but the back panel of the cabinet will not fit through the cabinet door; this makes it impossible to remove. Has anyone come up with a way to remove the back panel in toto? It would be very difficult to cut it in a craftsman-like manner while it is in the cabinet. Winterizing and de-winterizing on a trip is simple and fast with ready access....

Went by the trailer this afternoon, here are the pics:

Click image for larger version

Name: IMG_2030.jpeg
Views: 279
Size: 366.1 KB
ID: 335775

Click image for larger version

Name: IMG_2032.jpeg
Views: 213
Size: 445.7 KB
ID: 335776

I added an accumulator on the pump outflow side so that looks different from yours. You can see the the input side of the pump and the location of the strainer. You should be able to reach the inlet fitting and strainer and unscrew it sight unseen, just don't drop the strainer cap down the "black hole" The second picture shows the strainer cap removed with the screen inside of it.

Good Luck
Dave S

rmkrum · 03-15-2019, 05:24 PM

Note the position of the black rubber O-ring that is critical to proper operation of the pump.

Martee · 03-15-2019, 05:45 PM

Just an observation, I notice that some new Airstreams are having a loss of hot water after just about two or three weeks usage. In my case and four additional owners in this forum, when this happened, it was caused by minor debris from the factory plumbing installation, which makes it way to the mixing valve at the hot water heater, and a blockage occurs at the fine mesh screens of the mixing valve.

In every case, we initially considered the water pump the problem, only to later isolate the lack of hot water to a blockage at the mixing valve screens.

RCC · 03-26-2019, 04:39 AM

With wiring and plumbing up against the back of the panel I wanted to avoid cutting or drilling through it. There was about 1/4 inch of space side to side when the screws were removed so with the panel against one side I was able to get a thin slotted screw driver through and pry off the poplar boards that were stapled straight to the side frame. With these loose and out of the way there was room to get the panel out without cutting. I will modify it now so that it will be easy to remove.
My GT 25FB had a winterizing kit installed and I would never have known it was there if I hadn’t removed the below-the-reefer panel. There is no way it can be used from the panel under the wardrobe as it is too far over. I also found that the valve for the winter kit was installed backwards—things worked when set for normal use but when turned to winterize the the pump side was closed and vinyl tube open to the fresh water tank.

OTRA15 · 03-26-2019, 06:34 AM

Thanks for the update . . . nice work!

Peter

GettinAway · 10-27-2020, 06:55 AM

Very helpful post! I will remove that panel below the fridge. I don’t know why, but I thought surely AS isn’t expecting me to remove this screwed in panel in order for me to pump in RV antifreeze? Yep, that’s the only way to reach it!
Thanks
Jeff

PatSoozy · 08-25-2021, 05:36 PM

We are on our shakedown campout for our 2022 FT 25FBT. My arm is scraped and scabby from trying to reach under the fridge vent opening to try to find the valve for for the winterizing kit (and the strainer. Fortunately, we were able to get that under-fridge panel out by taking off the door and the hinge plates. Our panel is shorter than the opening so we could tease it out. It still wasn't easy. Good thing too. The builders had managed to shove one of those duct tubes in front of the pump and the fresh water fill tube (that green and white tube) so that it was blocking the airflow to the bottom of the fridge. The NovaKool venting is only at the top and bottom - none at the back. Since we repositioned the ductwork, the fridge should be more efficient too!

We're thinking about what kind of opening and what kind of fasteners to use to save us the bother of filling well used screw holes after a few winterizing sessions. Marine plywood is good, but take a screw out and put it back in often enough, it will strip out. Maybe a piano hinge and some simple cam connector (without the lock) like what is on the battery box (which we are planning to replace with a decent lock anyway).

GettinAway · 08-26-2021, 06:38 AM

PatSoozy, good job getting the back panel out of that compartment. No way mine will come out. The only way I can get to the valve is to disconnect the furnace duct from the door beneath the wardrobe, take that door completely off. Then lay down with my shoulder in the opening. But I can reach it! I think I’m just going to go with blowing out the lines from now on and not adding any RV antifreeze.

eagletoo · 08-27-2021, 05:57 AM

Never did this winterizing op - does blowing out the water lines from the city water fill port also clear the water pump? Thanks

GettinAway · 08-28-2021, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eagletoo

Never did this winterizing op - does blowing out the water lines from the city water fill port also clear the water pump? Thanks

I don’t see how it could. I just drained the water tank and let the pump run for a while obviously just pumping air. We had several single digit days this last winter after I had blown out the lines only. No leaks this spring when we went out. No damage to the pump. If it was easier to add the RV antifreeze I’d do it. But it’s crazy to remove the door beneath the wardrobe every time. That panel under the fridge should have been made with access capabilities for the pump. I think the problem is only with the 25s, and maybe with the twin bed configuration only.

RCC · 09-01-2021, 07:56 PM

GettinAway:

You will be so happy if you take that darn panel off because access is great after that. You can pump RV antifreeze and clean strainer with reckless abandon after that. A slotted screwdriver or stiff putty knife to pry off the board behind the panel is all it takes. See photo above of the poplar board and how it is stapled in place.

GettinAway · 09-02-2021, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCC

GettinAway:

You will be so happy if you take that darn panel off because access is great after that. You can pump RV antifreeze and clean strainer with reckless abandon after that. A slotted screwdriver or stiff putty knife to pry off the board behind the panel is all it takes. See photo above of the poplar board and how it is stapled in place.

I wonder if they changed something in 2020 (our 25GT is a 2020) I had everything apart, and kept removing boards that supported the refrigerator. I was to the point that my concern was bringing down the fridge. I pretty much came to the conclusion that I had to cut that back panel up to get it out. I had the winterizing valve in backwards from the factory, so I finally just let my local dealer handle it under the warranty. I know someday I’m going to need to get to that valve.
Thanks, I may tear into it again, take my time this go around.

PatSoozy · 03-20-2022, 06:14 PM

Finally!
We have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow so we had to either replace that under-fridge panel or construct our alternative access to the water pump. We didn't bother putting it back together after winterizing this season.

We thought we needed a framed hole, but this option works well. Thanks to our daughter for helping us stop overthinking this.

Next year when we winterize, we only need to remove the middle section and not the whole door to get the panel out.

We used the original panel for sizing but built a new three section access panel out of some spare laminated panel. Attachment 413354
Attachment 413356