Globetrotter Wobbly Dinette

[Stephen_C]

I took a relatively simple approach and 3D printed a spacer for the hook side of the table latches. This is 3mm high and works pretty well. I'd say its 90% addressed with the two leaves not matching on height. To make it perfect you could get the alignment parts used on dining table leafs and install those.

What I can't understand is why Airstream would put the larger latch on the table near the kitchen. In lounge configuration those latches just dangle and get in the way. So we swap the tables front to back in lounge setup. It's not an issue that way unless we need to make the bed, we have swap it back because the rubber alignment spacers are set differently on each table.

[WI Airstream]

Originally Posted by Timmy21

Our table was also a wobble problem resolved by replacing the original double table with a DIY white oak top and a new gas powered Springfield leg and patch the holes in the flooring with a vinyl floor repair kit.

Can you elaborate on the vinyl floor repair kit? Amazon - product name if you have it? Love what you did!

[Merlintiaga]

The wobbly dinette in the 27’ GT is caused by multiple issues. I have developed solutions for each of these problems. My tables are now aligned and I have removed 80 to 90% of the wobble. The tables are now very usable. I’m super happy with this solution.

Misaligned tables: This problem occurs when the under-table clamps are latched. The fix for this is simple and quick. I bought a pack of #8 flat washers from Home Depot. I unscrewed the hook-side of the latch and placed 3 or 4 washers between the underside of the table and the hook-side of the latch. The table halves now stay perfectly even when the latch is tightened down.

Wobbly tables: This required a two-part solution. Step one was to remove the table-top from the post and REALLY tighten the post onto the floor flange. To do this, I used the black plastic top of the post for grip. Also, I had my wife tighten the post at the same time. The post needs to be REALLY tight! You could use a strap-wrench for tightening the post.

The second part of the solution was to replace the black plastic flange on the underside of the table. Attached is a rendering of the 3D printed replacement flange I have developed. I printed four of these giving two complete replacement flanges. You can see that the flange is comprised of two pieces as opposed to the stock one-piece design. The AS stock part is a one-piece design has lots of clearance, allowing the top to wobble. In my design, there are four screws that hold the flange halves together. Once I attached this to the table, I carefully tightened the four machine screws to slightly squeeze the plastic top of the table post. The flange still allows the table-top to rotate, but critically, it removes the wobble! The table-top can still be removed by pulling hard upwards on the table-top.

Here are the specs I used for the 3D printing:
FDM printer (this is the most common type of 3d printing)
PLA material (this is the least expensive and most common type of material)
80% infill (this makes a strong and dense part, I don’t think lower infill would be acceptable)
200 micrometer layer height (this is fairly typical for FDM printing)
Units: inches
color: black

3D printing services are widely available online and even locally in many areas. My public library has one for public use as does the local community college. Many areas have public maker-spaces where for a nominal fee they'll help you use the printer. There are commercial 3d printing companies online too. For example, I looked at hubs.com for this part. They can print the four halves (2 complete flanges) for about $90. The actual cost of the printing was quoted at $54 but they have a $90 minimum order. I have never used hubs.com or any other commercial service so I cannot speak to the quality.

Unfortunately the Airforums server does not enable the posting of STL files so I cannot post the STL file needed for 3d printing. If you PM me, I will email it to you.

Here's a list of all the hardware I used:

#8 Flat washers: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...0321/204276460

#10 pan Phillips for attaching new flange to table. The stock screws are too short: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...0202/204275122

10-24 machine screws with nuts (need 4 per flange): https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-10-...-Count/3035887

We are so happy with our GT table now that the wobble and mis-alignment are gone!! Happy to answer any questions.
:-)

[Merlintiaga]

One question that came up is about mounting the new flange to the underside of the table. The holes in the new flange match the hole pattern from the stock flange so I did not need to drill new holes in the table. Simply line up the holes and tighten the screws. I used 3/4” long screws instead of the 5/8” long stock screws. The stock screws do not engage much into the table.

[GT27]

Merlintiaga has the best fix for the table wobble yet. His redesigned flange mentioned above is the bomb. I had mine "printed" in Kansas City for $40 and put them on today. The table still has some give through the pole assembly, but the wobble of the top where it fits on the pole is finally gone. I'm sending my original piece-of-crap black flange back to Airstream. After three model years I can not comprehend how/why they haven't changed suppliers for this poorly executed convertible dinette debacle.

I recommend everybody reach out to Merlintiaga through the Airforum and request the STL file for the new flange. He's done a great job and could make a fortune selling his creation to Airstream.

THANKS Merlintiaga. Now if I could just get a new water heater with a recycle system I'd been done with my criticisms. Maybe the 2024 models will address some of the shortcomings.

Happy Airstreaming.....

[Merlintiaga]

A few people have asked for a photo of the flange, so here it is. Note, this flange fits on the Redwood model table post. I believe that AS uses this post in the Flying Cloud as well as the GT, possibly other models too. This flange removes a lot of the wobble in the table. The connection between the table and the flange is where most of the wobble is from. This eliminates virtually all of that. The post will still wobble a bit in the floor but it is WAY better than the original flange. If you'd like to get one, just PM me your email address and I will email the STL file to you for you to have it printed. See post #23 for details on 3d printing.

[donfendrick]

Merlintiaga's fix is fantastic. I got the new flange parts printed out and it worked like a champ! Excellent design! AirStream should make this part of the standard design moving forward. The single piece flange simply has too much tolerance in the manufacturing process to provide stability. Well done! HUGE THANKS!

[JeffKim]

Originally Posted by GT27

Merlintiaga has the best fix for the table wobble yet. His redesigned flange mentioned above is the bomb. I had mine "printed" in Kansas City for $40 and put them on today.

GT27, do you mind posting a link to the place where you had it printed? Thanks!

[foobar]

Originally Posted by donfendrick

Merlintiaga's fix is fantastic. I got the new flange parts printed out and it worked like a champ! Excellent design! AirStream should make this part of the standard design moving forward. The single piece flange simply has too much tolerance in the manufacturing process to provide stability. Well done! HUGE THANKS!

Can you remove and reinstall the support pole?

I printed a set and it clamps the pole hard (good), but I can't remove the pole if needed to lower the table (not good). Am I missing something?

[GT27]

I had mine printed at Hammerspace in Kansas City.

https://hammerspacehobby.com/

Something like $40 if I remember correctly for 4 halves.
(That makes 2 complete flanges. )

[donfendrick]

It is a very hard pull to get the table off the pole. I generally leave the table in place, so not as much of an issue for me. Worst case I loosen the screws a bit.

[Merlintiaga]

Originally Posted by foobar

Can you remove and reinstall the support pole?

I printed a set and it clamps the pole hard (good), but I can't remove the pole if needed to lower the table (not good). Am I missing something?

You should be able to loosen the post once the table top is removed. If the top won't come off, loosen the screws in the flange just a small amount and it should be able to be pulled off with a hard yank.

[Merlintiaga]

About the tightness of the screws that squeeze the flange on the post : they should be tight enough that you can pull the table top off with a very hard yank, which will also enables the table to be rotated. I tend to turn the table clockwise so it doesn’t loosen the leg in the floor.

[AgBullet]

I've ordered a custom walnut table from Etsy, and have a Springfield 3-section pedestal mount. Can anyone comment on how to fasten the pedestal to the floor which is all composite material? I had thought to use the screws from the existing base, but I'm second-guessing that decision. I just don't know how well the screws will bite into composite...someone on this thread indicated they went all the way through the floor and used bolts. Appreciate any advice.

[Merlintiaga]

The dangling table clamp has bothered me since the day we picked up our camper. I've tried a few things and have come up with a simple solution. I used magnetic buttons adhered to the underside of the table with some double sided tape. I stuck the magnets to the tape, then neatly trimmed the tape. The magnet holds the clamp up out of the way when not in use. Here's are the supplies I used and some pictures too (not sure why the pictures are upside down but if you click on them, they open correctly).

Magnets:
https://www.michaels.com/product/pro...0aAq3SEALw_wcB

double sided tape:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-...5003/304544003

[Tyler2you]

Originally Posted by AgBullet

I've ordered a custom walnut table from Etsy, and have a Springfield 3-section pedestal mount. Can anyone comment on how to fasten the pedestal to the floor which is all composite material? I had thought to use the screws from the existing base, but I'm second-guessing that decision. I just don't know how well the screws will bite into composite...someone on this thread indicated they went all the way through the floor and used bolts. Appreciate any advice.

I used the existing screws. The composite floor actually holds screws better than plywood.

[OKCaravel20]

I agree, Merlintiaga has the right fix for the table with his 3D printed replacement fittings. I just installed a set on our 2023 Globetrotter. While not 100% perfect, it is a HUGE improvement, as mentioned above, 80 to 90% of the issue is gone. The table has gone from unusable to usable. I used an outfit called "Hubs". They do CNC and 3D printing prototyping services. Cost was $90 plus tax and shipping. I had the parts in about 4 days. https://www.hubs.com/

[Brucedann]

I have not looked at this thread in several months, glad to see Timmy21 built a table like I did. The question as to my bolt down through the floor, I used 1/4x20x3 oval head screws with aircraft nuts. There is an access hole almost under the table location for access to the electric level lift motor. Drill down from the top, then you will need a young long armed helper to reach in the hole with a socket wrench to hold the nut, I screwed down from the top w/screw gun. Torque somewhat tight. Much better then the #12 sheet metal screws AS used on the base. Then I finally finished my new table in black walnut with a proper edge band. Lots of work as to matching the 3/4" edge band to the 3/4" ply, I wanted rounded corners, but this would of been much more work. I also kept this as a the two section table as we have removed the back section so to fit four at the table for dinner. Usually leave this attached. The back section is supported on the original table which I screwed down to the sides. Does not interfere with the lower cabinets. Total build is rock stable, no movement.

I do like the in between solution of the custom flange, my only suggestion here is to install table pins and the table clamps to to make a tight, less flexible fit.

[steeliedave]

I tried Merlintiaga’s flanges. What a HUGE difference. I had four flanges made at hubs.com for $90 total. The wobble is so much better.

I may also try the Springfield 3 stage hydraulic pedestal in addition to the flanges. I got this idea from Ultimate Airstreams. We often use only the table closest to the kitchen and put the extra seating up by the window. If we have the table closest to the kitchen on the pedestal it will be rock solid by itself. If we want the grandkids to sleep there, we shrink the pedestal to use the table for the bed. If we want a bed we shrink the pedestal and remove the table by the window for the bed base.

The flanges are a huge improvement. The thinking with the pedestal in addition to the flanges is this … the table with the Springfield pedestal will provide a super solid base either by itself or connects to the other table. And it’s a piece of cake to shrink the pedestal to us as a bed.

I’ll post on the forum the results of my experiment. Thanks again Merlintiaga!!!

[dog_and_cat]

Another huge vote for Merlintiaga’s design and for his time and effort on this. I have a '21 Globetrotter which has a different flange/post/base design compared to the newer models. Merlintiaga tweaked his original flange design to fit the older table model and it works great. No wobble at all for the flange and just tiny amount of wobble from the base/post. Huge improvement.

For the base, the black bottom part of the post "screws" into a thick thread inside the silver base. I use a strap wrench around the bottom of the post to turn it clockwise as hard as I can and that makes it pretty stable.

Here are a few pics: