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Old 11-18-2017, 06:50 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
The most efficient propane lheating is with a catalytic heater. Worth your time reading. That will stretch propane significantly when tank heating isn't necessary. I'd recommend the one which uses an exterior air draw for combustion.
Supplemental propane heat is great. I was concerned about the added moisture in the inside air from a catalytic heater and opted for the Dickinson P1200 propane fireplace instead. It draws air from the outside down the outside wall of the chimney and combustion gases go out the inside flue of the same chimney.

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Old 11-18-2017, 08:07 AM   #22
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If the temps go below freezing, only the Airstream furnace puts hot air down around the tanks to keep them from freezing.

Many Airstream models have both the black and gray tank valves out in the open (kind of like the rear end of a male lion with important parts fully exposed), so wrapping these valves in a sleeping bag with a trouble light with a five watt bulb inside will keep them from freezing and breaking.

Based on my experience last April in the Arizona mountains with our 23D and 25 degree nights....
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Old 11-18-2017, 11:44 AM   #23
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Looked it up today.

Platinum Cat Heater.

Power vented thru sidewall.

Ive been considering two of them. One in lounge by the front door, and another at either center queen rear bedroom, or in center bath (walls move to close off TT center to create bath suite; mirrored closets across hall from bath).

But I haven't gone so far as to decide on how to finish off exterior vent. Probably something from a marine supply.

Electrical wiring and amp draw also has to be figured as well as propane plumbing. And I would be dropping trailer bottom skin to do it.

OP, the other brands of cat heaters aren't vented, thus no electrical draw. But there is a slight hazard involved with CO. You'll want to read up.

Versus electrical space heaters it's a much warmer "feel".

As a note to this. We now live in an era where folks see electricity as the most important system. It isn't. That would be water closely followed by propane. Electricity is only necessary for the furnace fan and water pump. As the rest is optional, it's of no real import.

To get the most from a TT is to maximize systems. Propane can also be a lighting source. So, look to these and other accessories.

Can one "run" the TT on propane alone? I can cook, heat water, provide lighting and preserve fresh food. This was the classic model followed from the beginning. Propane is sort of the alternate definition of an RV. With a foot-operated water pump, one could do it.

But a car battery got added when folks decided they'd like a shower. And off we went.

I bring all of this up to recommend you pretend you have electricity only for the water pump. How would you do the rest? Have some fun experimenting. (Which is learning to estimate propane usage in cool weather. Etc).

Let's say you decide on some rechargeable LED lanterns for interior use. Where would you hang them in order to best use to cook or read? Store them? Charge them?

On another trip, 12V only. No propane available. How to cook? Heat? What backup is reasonable I don't have to abandon the TT before morning (and then leave for someplace warmer).

Or, 120V only. How to . . ?

And so forth.

Have fun.
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Old 11-19-2017, 06:43 AM   #24
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Need 12-volt battery power for the brakes if moving, for most modern systems (not vacuum from the TV), plus for the running lights . . .

Foot pump for water is a great solution, similar to ocean sailing, to conserve water.

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Old 11-19-2017, 07:20 AM   #25
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Hi

One very basic issue with propane based heat - you generate moisture from the combustion process. Living in the trailer also dumps a lot of moisture as well. The more humidity you have, the more involved your approach to dealing with it will have to be.

A normal furnace that pulls combustion air in from outside and pushes the result out through a chimney dumps the moisture for you. Something like a catalytic heater that is "all indoors" dumps the moisture in the living space. When you hang on to the moisture, the efficiency goes up (there's heat in steam ...). If you then run a mechanical dehumidifier to get rid of the humidity, that "gain" is actually a net loss....

Lots of twists and turns.

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Old 02-28-2018, 04:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adventure.AS View Post
Supplemental propane heat is great. I was concerned about the added moisture in the inside air from a catalytic heater and opted for the Dickinson P1200 propane fireplace instead. It draws air from the outside down the outside wall of the chimney and combustion gases go out the inside flue of the same chimney.

Attachment 299357
Any install pics?
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Old 02-28-2018, 06:44 PM   #27
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Any install pics?
The post you quoted of the Dickinson P1200 has a picture of the unit installed on the bulkhead of the fridge. Running a propane line and 12 volt power through the fridge compartment.
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Old 02-28-2018, 07:08 PM   #28
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One issue not addressed (or I may have missed) is the indoor temp you maintain day and night. We don't use our furnace overnight unless it drops below 40F. During the day, we maintain the indoor temp at 50F. Anyone else?
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Old 03-01-2018, 05:44 AM   #29
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The post you quoted of the Dickinson P1200 has a picture of the unit installed on the bulkhead of the fridge. Running a propane line and 12 volt power through the fridge compartment.
Thanks! How about the chimney run? I don't see that in the pic.
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Old 03-01-2018, 06:30 AM   #30
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Dickinson Propane Fireplace P1200 Installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by kb7our View Post
thanks! How about the chimney run? I don't see that in the pic.
Sorry for the hijack, but using supplemental propane heat is applicable to saving both propane and power instead of running the furnace.

Here are the photos of the finished installation.

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Although the fireplace does have a 12 volt fan (that can be switched off), I use a Caframo Sirocco II 12/24V Gimbal Fan mounted to the front of the front upper locker to help circulate the warm air.


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Old 03-02-2018, 05:06 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adventure.AS View Post
Sorry for the hijack, but using supplemental propane heat is applicable to saving both propane and power instead of running the furnace.

Here are the photos of the finished installation.

Attachment 305176

Attachment 305177

Attachment 305178

Although the fireplace does have a 12 volt fan (that can be switched off), I use a Caframo Sirocco II 12/24V Gimbal Fan mounted to the front of the front upper locker to help circulate the warm air.

Attachment 305179
Very helpful - thank you!
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:25 PM   #32
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While the space above the floor is warm with this space heater, the tanks and water lines could freeze since no hot air is being blown under the floor like the stock furnace does.
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:47 PM   #33
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While the space above the floor is warm with this space heater, the tanks and water lines could freeze since no hot air is being blown under the floor like the stock furnace does.
If you are speaking about the Dickinson you are quite right. However, if it is below freezing the fireplace couldn't heat the space by itself and would be used for both ambience and for supplemental heat for the furnace. It is great during the shoulder seasons as it easily take the chill off and won't drain the batteries down like the furnace would.
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