Need WD hitch?

[DWL]

We just purchased a 25FB and looking at a weight distributing hitch for my truck (Chevy 2500HD). Does anybody have any recommendations?

[wulfraat]

I have a similar setup and equalizer with 1,000 lb bars works well for me. It delivers both WD and friction-based away deterrent.

[ROBERT CROSS]

We also use 1000# bars with our 2500 Burb and Hensley Arrow.
A properly set up WD/sway control hitch is always a good idea...👍

Bob
🇺🇸

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by DWL

We just purchased a 25FB and looking at a weight distributing hitch for my truck (Chevy 2500HD). Does anybody have any recommendations?

......Reese duel cam

[sheriff1]

[Bobbo]

For the below $2,000 price range, Reese Dual Cam or Equalizer are the top two. You can't go wrong with either one.

[waninae39]

we use the eaz-lift www.eaz-lift.com
it works very well for us

get the bars that are close to your max toe weight . ensure that its over , but not too much
ie 400 lb tongue go 500-600 lb WD bars

Here is a quick summary of the process.
1.To set the torsion bars you need to park on a level cement pad. You want the trailer and tow vehicle in a straight line, disconnected, with the coupler ready to drop on the ball.

2.With the tow vehicle in position, but disconnected from the trailer, use some masking tape and measure the height from the ground to the four corners of the tow vehicle. Mark the tape with these measurements, for example 22 inches, or whatever is appropriate for your tow vehicle.

3.Now that we know how the tow vehicle sits without the trailer, we want to determine the change in position when the trailer is connected.

4.Connect the trailer and do up the torsion bars. Take note of the change in height at each corner of the tow vehicle, and mark this on the masking tape.

5.You will find that the tow vehicle will have been pushed down by the weight of the trailer. For example, the rear measurement may now be 20” instead of 22” but the front may have come up to 22.5”. In this case, you need to go up to the next link in the torsion bar adjustment chain (adding tension to the torsion bars) and measure again.

6.You may find that the next link puts you into the opposite position, where the front is pushed down 1” and the back stays even at the 22” mark. This means that the torsion bars are transferring too much weight forward.

7.If this is the case you need a partial link. To do that, overlap two chain links and slide a ½” bolt through them. A ½” bolt is 1/3 of a link of adjustment so in some cases you will need 2 bolts to achieve the correct transfer.

8.When properly adjusted, the torsion bars will put enough weight on all four wheels to lower the corners of the tow vehicle from the “22 inch” starting point to between 21 ¼” and 21 ½” front and rear.

9.If you are setting up a new hitch, the torsion bars will wear in quite quickly. You will likely need to add a third of a link after 200-500 miles. You will need another third of a link after another 500- 1000 miles. You will probably feel the difference in the steering response of the tow vehicle as the new torsion bars “wear in”. It is fine to experiment by adding or subtracting 1/3 of a link at a time, and you should notice the difference in steering feel right away if it was the right or wrong change to make.

10.If you can’t get the weight to transfer to the front wheels without your torsion bars meeting the trailer frame, then you don’t have enough reward angle on your ball mount, or the torsion bars are too light, you may have a hitch receiver that is too weak, or all of the above.

[Bill M.]

Blue Ox or Pro pride. I use a Reese Dual cam but think they are a little dated. I do get good results with the dual cam though. I am not going to change now but if I had to buy new I would choose between the 2 I listed.

[AirstreamCSH]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

I have a similar setup and equalizer with 1,000 lb bars works well for me. It delivers both WD and friction-based away deterrent.

This ^

[DWL]

Thanks for all of the input. We ended up buying the Equalizer hitch
Wayne

[xrvr]

Originally Posted by waninae39

we use the eaz-lift www.eaz-lift.com
it works very well for us

get the bars that are close to your max toe weight . ensure that its over , but not too much
ie 400 lb tongue go 500-600 lb WD bars

Here is a quick summary of the process.
1.To set the torsion bars you need to park on a level cement pad. You want the trailer and tow vehicle in a straight line, disconnected, with the coupler ready to drop on the ball.

2.With the tow vehicle in position, but disconnected from the trailer, use some masking tape and measure the height from the ground to the four corners of the tow vehicle. Mark the tape with these measurements, for example 22 inches, or whatever is appropriate for your tow vehicle.

3.Now that we know how the tow vehicle sits without the trailer, we want to determine the change in position when the trailer is connected.

4.Connect the trailer and do up the torsion bars. Take note of the change in height at each corner of the tow vehicle, and mark this on the masking tape.

5.You will find that the tow vehicle will have been pushed down by the weight of the trailer. For example, the rear measurement may now be 20” instead of 22” but the front may have come up to 22.5”. In this case, you need to go up to the next link in the torsion bar adjustment chain (adding tension to the torsion bars) and measure again.

6.You may find that the next link puts you into the opposite position, where the front is pushed down 1” and the back stays even at the 22” mark. This means that the torsion bars are transferring too much weight forward.

7.If this is the case you need a partial link. To do that, overlap two chain links and slide a ½” bolt through them. A ½” bolt is 1/3 of a link of adjustment so in some cases you will need 2 bolts to achieve the correct transfer.

8.When properly adjusted, the torsion bars will put enough weight on all four wheels to lower the corners of the tow vehicle from the “22 inch” starting point to between 21 ¼” and 21 ½” front and rear.

9.If you are setting up a new hitch, the torsion bars will wear in quite quickly. You will likely need to add a third of a link after 200-500 miles. You will need another third of a link after another 500- 1000 miles. You will probably feel the difference in the steering response of the tow vehicle as the new torsion bars “wear in”. It is fine to experiment by adding or subtracting 1/3 of a link at a time, and you should notice the difference in steering feel right away if it was the right or wrong change to make.

10.If you can’t get the weight to transfer to the front wheels without your torsion bars meeting the trailer frame, then you don’t have enough reward angle on your ball mount, or the torsion bars are too light, you may have a hitch receiver that is too weak, or all of the above.

With this hitch you must use separate sway bars. There is no sway control without them. The canadian dealer uses these. Very effective.

[majorairhead]

Originally Posted by DWL

Thanks for all of the input. We ended up buying the Equalizer hitch
Wayne

Nice and simple. I've used the Equalizer on a Flying Cloud 25 with an F150, and now on an International Serenity with an F250. No issues with either setup.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by AirstreamCSH

This ^

Them!

I got mine off Craig's list for $150. {Gasp!}
It's worked flawlessly.
Semi's don't effect it, tows like a dream.
Creaks at parking lot speed.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

If you have any WD hitch .... take a look at the little bits and pieces associated with it. On the Equalizer there are "hair clips" on the pins that hold the bars to the hitch (and the pins). There are also the little right angle things that lock the bar to the trailer.

You may be perfect and never ever loose one of any of them. That's not a good thing to depend on. Buy a couple of spares of each and put them where you can find them. Finding that this or that has gone missing just as you are about to pull out ... no fun at all.

I'm looking for a place to buy the "hair clips" for the Equalizer pins in bulk ...

Bob

[uraljohn]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Them!

I got mine off Craig's list for $150. {Gasp!}
It's worked flawlessly.
Semi's don't effect it, tows like a dream.
Creaks at parking lot speed.

I use an Equalizer for our FC 25. Try using the "Bracket Jackets" that Equalizer sells for the friction area of the L brackets. Mine made a bunch of creaking noises until I used "Bracket Jackets". Made about 90% of noise go away. Great hitch, tows well, easy to hook up and maintain.

[thewarden]

Originally Posted by tjdonahoe

......Reese duel cam

Same here. Both a good WD hitch but also excellent for sway control.

[NukeSubSailr]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

If you have any WD hitch .... take a look at the little bits and pieces associated with it. On the Equalizer there are "hair clips" on the pins that hold the bars to the hitch (and the pins). There are also the little right angle things that lock the bar to the trailer.

You may be perfect and never ever loose one of any of them. That's not a good thing to depend on. Buy a couple of spares of each and put them where you can find them. Finding that this or that has gone missing just as you are about to pull out ... no fun at all.

I'm looking for a place to buy the "hair clips" for the Equalizer pins in bulk ...

Bob

I get mine at Tractor Supply.

[rmkrum]

Also in the hardware department in most big box home improvement stores.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Also in the hardware department in most big box home improvement stores.

Hi

..... but will they give you a good deal on 10 pounds of then? Or do they just want to sell them three at a time ....

Bob

[cabmike1954]

I have a Pro 1000 for sale if you are interested