Dewinterizing

[Rivet Rocket]

Must be spring!
Just took delivery on a new FC 26, it came winterized from the factory, and I asked the dealer not to dewinterize it because of recent low temps in Michigan.

My question is, should I close or open the hot water heater by-pass valve when I first put water into it to pump out the antifreeze?

Should I use the fresh water tank and pump to do this or just hook up city water? I assume there is some antifreeze in the pump that will need to be removed.

I know I have to open all the faucets one by one and do hot/cold, shower inside/out and toilet. Will check to make sure fresh water tank drain is closed and all low point drains are closed.

Thanks in advance for help on this simple matter, still learning, the 22 Sport was less complex.

[SteveSueMac]

Hi. There are several threads on dewinterizing. I compiled my own list based on the collective wisdom I found in other threads - one in particular I believe TG Twinkie (hope I have that right!) provided the guts....


Here's the process and sequence I used for my 2012 Flying Cloud. Don't know what may be different for your new (2018?) trailer especially if you have an Alde system which I'm not familiar with at all - but your specific questions are addressed here:

Dewinterize Procedure

DO NOT ADDRESS WATER HEATER BYPASS UNTIL STEP 14

HAVE 3 oz OF BLEACH FOR STEP 4

HAVE 15/16 SOCKET FOR WH PLUG STEP 2


1. reinstall batteries (see pics in Battery file on phone) - note - I have pics on my phone from curbside that show the proper connections. I refer to that every year when winterizing and dewinterizing - since winterizing means the end of camping season and is a negative thing, the negatives come off first. For dewinterizing it means the start of camping season again - a positive thing - so the positives go on first - works for me).
2. reassemble items left loose for winter: exterior shower heads, hoses/filter at pump, REPLACE WATER HEATER DRAIN PLUG - replace batteries in remote controls...
3. close all faucets, shower valves, low-point drains, etc
4. Connect water filter and hose to water source - ensure charcoal runs clear out of filter before connecting hose. PUT 3 oz OF BLEACH IN FRESH TANK then fill the FRESH water tank after making sure you have closed the tank drain valve. SHUT OFF WATER SOURCE WHEN FW TANK IS FULL.
5. START WATER PUMP and be sure it stops. If it doesn't, a drain may be open or you may have a leak. If all good, open the galley sink faucets and start the flow of water. You should see the pink antifreeze running out of the faucet. Hot water side and cold water side should be opened one at a time. Leave the pump running until clear water is running.
6. Close the galley sink faucets.
7. Open the vanity faucets, wait for clear water to run. Close the faucets.
8. Open the shower faucets, wait for clear water.
9. Flush the toilet until you get clear water.
10. (Optional - clear outdoor shower faucet - can be done at time of first use)
11. Turn the pump off.
12. Connect the hose to the city water connection and open the spigot at the pedestal.
13. Turn on the city water. Then repeat steps 5-9 (only from city water, not pump).
14. At this point the water heater should still be in the "bypass" mode from winterized process. You need to take it out of that bypass mode. The manual in your coach should have instructions on how this is done. When you take the water heater out of "bypass" with the city water still on. You should hear water running into the water heater tank. LET IT FILL BEFORE CONTINUING.
15. Open the hot water faucet on the shower, galley and vanity sinks one at a time. Allow the water to run until there is no air coming out of the faucets.
16. DO NOT START THE WATER HEATER IN EITHER THE GAS OR ELECTRIC MODE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE THE WATER HEATER IS FULL OF WATER.

TROUBLESHOOTING:

Whomever winterized the coach may have opened the low point drain valves. If you are unsuccessful with the above steps. Look under the coach for water running out. If water is running out. You must locate the low point drain valves and close them. If the pump continues to run when all sink and shower valves are closed. A low point drain valve(s) may be open or you have a leak somewhere. Start looking.
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[Rivet Rocket]

Thank you SSM. Your response and research is appreciated. Looks like a few more steps needed by me to complete this task and the by-pass valve is down the list of the procedures.

No Alde in the FC 26 RBT, higher end models have this feature, beyond my pay grade.

[Piggy Bank]

In most general, conceptual terms.

The hot water heater is the first thing that you put into bypass when Winterizing.
The hot water heater is the last thing that you bring back online when un-winterizing.

Reason. You can "pull the plug" and drain the hot water heater to winterize, so you never ever want to run "pink stuff" in it. Since it never has "pink stuff" in it, no need to do the tedious rinse clean, wash, and shock treatment on the hot water heater. We typically like to clean it out really well when we winterize so that it's good to go in the spring.