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Old 09-30-2022, 08:27 AM   #1
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2021 27' Flying Cloud
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closet too hot needs vent cut in door

Has anyone cut a vent in the closet door next to the fridge on a 2021 27FBT,closet gets very hot on hot days.
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Old 09-30-2022, 08:52 AM   #2
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I think your issue is a combination of sun load on the back wall of the closet and fridge compartment...in addition to the heat generated by the fridge. Do you have awning(s) over that area? that helps a lot.

Attacking the problem from the inside (closet vent) isn't the correct approach IMO. I pulled my fridge and insulated the side walls with reflectex (mine had no more clearance to allow "real" insulation. Of course, proper ventilation (fans) is essential in removing waste heat generated by the fridge. Many threads on that subject.

One day, I will pull the fridge and seal off the open space above the fridge and insulate, install reflectex on the inner side of the exterior wall, behind fridge and analyze the appropriate dimensions of the baffle built by AS for proper clearance to the fridge condenser fins.

Attack the source of the problem, not the result, IMO.
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Old 09-30-2022, 11:04 AM   #3
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You have to seal the gap between the fridge and wall on the backside of fridge. In our 2019 FC 25 RBT the fridge compartment has a bottom and top vented door. Even with adding 2 fans at the top door enough heat is trapped in the compartment to saturate the area around the fridge and cause your hot closet problem.

I took 3 or 4 tubes of the foam style pipe insulation (the cheapy stuff at Home Depot or Lowe's) and carefully inserted in into the gap between the fridge and compartment walls. Took a bit of patience and a small putty knife but now no more heat can surround the fridge making adjoining closet hot. I did this in our 2017 Int. Serenity also.

At the top of the fridge above the coils that get hot I carefully installed some "Frost King" brand Self Adhesive Foil and Foam Duct Insulation. Get it at Home Depot or Lowe's. The roll is 12" wide x 1/8" thick X 15' long. You only need a piece as wide as the fridge and maybe 8" high. Apply it across the top of fridge and onto the roof (actually the underside of the cabinet above fridge space, ours holds the microwave) to seal it from any heat getting above fridge cavity. All done. No more hot closet.

I also made a prop stick out of a couple of the 5 gallon paint stir sticks to prop open the exterior fridge vent doors while parked and running fridge. Our fridge performs extremely well with these simple mods. Good luck. Should take maybe 30 minutes to do the whole shebang.
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Old 09-30-2022, 11:09 AM   #4
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Yes if you have upper and lower side vents, you can get to these areas without fridge removal. Roof vent, not so much. But, roof vent drafts better. I do think you will someday regret the foam insulation approach. It'll be a mess trying to get fridge out for repairs.
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Old 09-30-2022, 05:48 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Yes if you have upper and lower side vents, you can get to these areas without fridge removal. Roof vent, not so much. But, roof vent drafts better. I do think you will someday regret the foam insulation approach. It'll be a mess trying to get fridge out for repairs.
The foam pipe insulation tubes can easily be removed with needle nose pliers. When installing it you only push it in far enough to be wedge in place. You do not want to shove it way in as that would defeat the purpose by allowing heat to get between the wall and fridge side. The piece of self stick foil faced insulation across the top of fridge can easily be cut with box knife. Out comes the fridge, no muss or fuss.
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Old 10-01-2022, 12:05 PM   #6
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Oh boy! Can you give me a better mental picture of this foam pipe insulation technique? Is the tube running vertically at the rear edge of the fridge compartment making a barrier between the actual fridge and wall? If I understand correctly this would keep the heat generated by the refrigerator contained behind the refrigerator. I saw you mention 3 to 4 of the foam tubes, why did you need this qty? I am excited to do this on my refrigerator also. Thanks for the great suggestion
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Old 10-01-2022, 12:28 PM   #7
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Oh boy! Can you give me a better mental picture of this foam pipe insulation technique? Is the tube running vertically at the rear edge of the fridge compartment making a barrier between the actual fridge and wall? If I understand correctly this would keep the heat generated by the refrigerator contained behind the refrigerator. I saw you mention 3 to 4 of the foam tubes, why did you need this qty? I am excited to do this on my refrigerator also. Thanks for the great suggestion
There is a small gap between the wall and fridge in the compartment backside of fridge. Get 3/4 tubes, 1/2" size OK, at the local Lowe's/Home Depot. The tubes are approx. 4' long. Get a small putty knife, starting at the top edge, and carefully force the foam tube into the gap. Not too far. Flush is OK. Work your way down to the bottom. May need to cut a small piece to make it all the way to bottom. Repeat for other side. Then do the top. little more difficult but doable. I finish with a piece of the self stick foil faced foam across the top to complete seal. The heat generated from the fridge cannot get around the fridge and heat soak the cabinet resulting in hot closet. 30 minutes start to finish. Adding couple fans at the top helps. If we are in a really hot place I have an extra fan that I sit at the bottom of the fridge cavity blowing up to increase airflow. It is a bit noisy so no using at bedtime.
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Old 10-01-2022, 12:54 PM   #8
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The foam pipe insulation tubes can easily be removed with needle nose pliers. When installing it you only push it in far enough to be wedge in place. You do not want to shove it way in as that would defeat the purpose by allowing heat to get between the wall and fridge side. The piece of self stick foil faced insulation across the top of fridge can easily be cut with box knife. Out comes the fridge, no muss or fuss.
Oh, my bad....I thought you were talking about the expanding spray foam insulation.
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