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MQF · 05-13-2018, 02:49 PM

Here is the situation our 26u is setup in our side yard, not level at all. We put it there with it hooked to our 2014 F-250. We now have a 2016 Ram 2500. The hitch height is much higher. We have the equalizer set up.

I think it is pretty clear from reading Kelvin and others posts that a new shank is needed. I have 2 1/2 inch 9" drop on order and a 2 inch 6" drop on order. The first dilemma I have no way to really torque and untorque the current hitch set up. I would like to take the new shank and the existing hitch shank and have them to a shop get us to a lower starting point so I can hook up the trailer and then take it to them to get it all level. Looking for ideas. Do I just start at the lowest point on the 9" shank and hope for the best? I really want to use a 2.5" shank with the receiver on the truck. Please help, the trip is June 11th.

MQF · 05-13-2018, 03:08 PM

To add at this point I do not think the tongue of the trailer will go high enough to get on the hitch configured the way it is in the Ram, the angle and current position of the trailer are just not going to work.

Bill M. · 05-13-2018, 03:09 PM

My first suggestion is to go to a store and buy sockets and a big breaker bar to adjust the hitch with. Take a nut and bolt with you and just get sockets that fit. You do not really need the torque wrench. Do all the trials and adjustments and then if you doubt your ability to get it tight take it to the shop 1 time and have them "snug it up".

I do not know if my measurements will help you but they might. I have a 2007 Dodge 2500 with 4 wheel drive. I have the top of the ball sitting about 18" from the pavement when not hitched. I have a Reese Hitch. The top hitch bolt is 4" down from the bottom of the horizontal drawbar. My drawbar drops 10" from the bottom of the horizontal section and my bottom bolt is 1 hole up from the bottom. My rig sits pretty level when hitched. My Dodge suspension really does not go down a lot in the rear when I add the trailer weight.

It sounds like you need to get the wrenches and do a initial setup low enough to get the trailer on the ball and then pull it to a more level spot and re adjust. I bet if you get the ball setup about 18" from the ground it will work fine.

MQF · 05-13-2018, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill M.

My first suggestion is to go to a store and buy sockets and a big breaker bar to adjust the hitch with. Take a nut and bolt with you and just get sockets that fit. You do not really need the torque wrench. Do all the trials and adjustments and then if you doubt your ability to get it tight take it to the shop 1 time and have them "snug it up".

I do not know if my measurements will help you but they might. I have a 2007 Dodge 2500 with 4 wheel drive. I have the top of the ball sitting about 18" from the pavement when not hitched. I have a Reese Hitch. The top hitch bolt is 4" down from the bottom of the horizontal drawbar. My drawbar drops 10" from the bottom of the horizontal section and my bottom bolt is 1 hole up from the bottom. My rig sits pretty level when hitched. My Dodge suspension really does not go down a lot in the rear when I add the trailer weight.

It sounds like you need to get the wrenches and do a initial setup low enough to get the trailer on the ball and then pull it to a more level spot and re adjust. I bet if you get the ball setup about 18" from the ground it will work fine.

I'll try this, I hope I can break them loose. 18" seems like around where the F-250 was although circumstances as they are I never measured it and it is way too late now. Currently with the insert for the ram and the current shank setup the ram is at about 24" to the top of the ball.

interstateflyer · 05-13-2018, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MQF

To add at this point I do not think the tongue of the trailer will go high enough to get on the hitch configured the way it is in the Ram, the angle and current position of the trailer are just not going to work.

Do you have auto rear leveling on your RAM 2500?

MQF · 05-13-2018, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

Do you have auto rear leveling on your RAM 2500?

Not according to the window sticker.

interstateflyer · 05-13-2018, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MQF

Not according to the window sticker.

My 2016 RAM 2500 has a button labeled 'Alt Trailer Height' (three to the left of Tow Haul). This feature levels the trailer under load but also, when activated makes the truck sit lower while unloaded. So when activated my truck sits low enough for me to hook up/unhook on my slanted driveway. With this feature, I also avoid having to use a lowered Equalizer hitch head.

Something else that is not talked about a lot but mentioned somewhere in the RAM literature....using a 2 inch shank with a 2.5 inch adapter actually lowers your truck's towing capacity.

Mollysdad · 05-13-2018, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MQF

Do I just start at the lowest point on the 9" shank and hope for the best? I really want to use a 2.5" shank with the receiver on the truck. Please help, the trip is June 11th.

Plenty of time.
First read the information on the Equalizer web site. It will ask for the height of the trailer coupler (I think all Airstreams are 17.75")
Then you will put the shank in, and see what hole will give you about the same ball height. Start there. (remember, you can only adjust in 1.25" increments because that's how the holes in the shank are spaced.)
The sag will be adjusted using more or fewer washers on the "ball tilt mechanism".
Equalizer has very good information both on their web site and YouTube.

MQF · 05-13-2018, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

My 2016 RAM 2500 has a button labeled 'Alt Trailer Height' (three to the left of Tow Haul). This feature levels the trailer under load but also, when activated makes the truck sit lower while unloaded. So when activated my truck sits low enough for me to hook up/unhook on my slanted driveway. With this feature, I also avoid having to use a lowered Equalizer hitch head.

Something else that is not talked about a lot but mentioned somewhere in the RAM literature....using a 2 inch shank with a 2.5 inch adapter actually lowers your truck's towing capacity.

Must be the one option that I don't have....unreal....I am going to try the 2.5 inch with a 6 inch drop and see where that gets me. (I also have the 2 inch, 9" on the way if I can't it low enough with the 2.5)

Al and Missy · 05-13-2018, 06:49 PM

If you can't break the nuts loose with just a breaker, get a piece of galvanized pipe to slip over the breaker bar to give you some more leverage. Put the hitch in the receiver upside down if you need to (depending on which side the nuts are on) so you can use your weight to push down instead of pulling up on the wrench.

Al

MQF · 05-13-2018, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Plenty of time.
First read the information on the Equalizer web site. It will ask for the height of the trailer coupler (I think all Airstreams are 17.75")
Then you will put the shank in, and see what hole will give you about the same ball height. Start there. (remember, you can only adjust in 1.25" increments because that's how the holes in the shank are spaced.)
The sag will be adjusted using more or fewer washers on the "ball tilt mechanism".
Equalizer has very good information both on their web site and YouTube.

Maybe they need a page for my wife to read, instead of asking me why getting the Ram was so important.

She loves the truck, but our setup with the old truck was perfect, the new used truck just has such a high backend which I didn't think was possible over the Ford. I keep telling her I just went from one used truck to another, that isn't currently helping. Of course 3 weeks from now this will all be history and she will have no idea what had to happen to make the change.

21Airstream · 05-14-2018, 04:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

... Something else that is not talked about a lot but mentioned somewhere in the RAM literature....using a 2 inch shank with a 2.5 inch adapter actually lowers your truck's towing capacity.

This doesn’t surprise me. When we bought our ‘14 FC 27FB the dealer used one of these adapters, which I used for the first year. It just didn’t seem right, as if I wasn’t getting the full benefit of my Titan Class V Receiver so I replaced it with a 2.5” shank and all is well.

I know our AS isn’t that heavy but I sure enjoy erring on the side of caution. (FWIW, I know I haven’t thought of everything but with your help I’m sure trying.)

DewTheDew · 05-14-2018, 05:09 AM

Hi MQF; we are just down the road in Point of Rocks, MD. I can't help you here but I did want to point out that there is a Mid-Atlantic thread in the Rallies part of this board where people are sharing info on good camping spots and such around the PA/VA/WV/MD area. I'm new to both camping with a trailer and finding spots in this area so I have found it useful. Some folks are coordinating trips as well. Best of luck with the truck!
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f288...va-174970.html

jimfa440 · 05-14-2018, 10:02 AM

Park on level pavement, adjust so the top of the ball is 18 1/2" from the ground. This will give you a VERY close starting point.

Mollysdad · 05-14-2018, 10:54 AM

Once you get an idea of how much drop you need, search for a 2 1/2" shank for that drop.
The vertical part is still 2", just the part in the receiver is made of 2 1/2" steel.
The Equalizer web site will let you know what they make, but also check e-trailer and Curt.
https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/shanks
Don't go too much drop or it could drag the pavement exiting gas stations, etc.
Also, you might think about going an inch or two longer so your tailgate will open. Unfortunately, different companies measure length differently, some do hole to hole, some do overall length. E-trailer has great videos where they show you a tape measure against the shank.

sbowman · 05-14-2018, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MQF

Here is the situation our 26u is setup in our side yard, not level at all. We put it there with it hooked to our 2014 F-250. We now have a 2016 Ram 2500. The hitch height is much higher. We have the equalizer set up.

I think it is pretty clear from reading Kelvin and others posts that a new shank is needed. I have 2 1/2 inch 9" drop on order and a 2 inch 6" drop on order. The first dilemma I have no way to really torque and untorque the current hitch set up. I would like to take the new shank and the existing hitch shank and have them to a shop get us to a lower starting point so I can hook up the trailer and then take it to them to get it all level. Looking for ideas. Do I just start at the lowest point on the 9" shank and hope for the best? I really want to use a 2.5" shank with the receiver on the truck. Please help, the trip is June 11th.

2500 and 3500 RAMS are very close and/or same in height of receivers to level ground surface. 9" drop is close however 11" will be on the money.

Best regards and safe travels

tjdonahoe · 05-14-2018, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

My 2016 RAM 2500 has a button labeled 'Alt Trailer Height' (three to the left of Tow Haul). This feature levels the trailer under load but also, when activated makes the truck sit lower while unloaded. So when activated my truck sits low enough for me to hook up/unhook on my slanted driveway. With this feature, I also avoid having to use a lowered Equalizer hitch head.

Something else that is not talked about a lot but mentioned somewhere in the RAM literature....using a 2 inch shank with a 2.5 inch adapter actually lowers your truck's towing capacity.

You have air suspension....... some have progressive coil springs...mine has coils

21Airstream · 05-15-2018, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

... Also, you might think about going an inch or two longer so your tailgate will open...

This was an unexpected benefit of upgrading to the 2.5” Shank on our Ram.

MQF · 05-18-2018, 06:03 PM

Update:

Well first it has rained for about a week straight so very little airstream stuff has gotten done.

Good news. 24" breaker bar, and 5ft. 1 1/2" black gas pipe got the nuts loose on the hitch. Halfway through setting up the new shank going with the 2 1/2" shank with 6" drop and mounting the head in the bottom holes. Thank you everyone for your help so far.

tjdonahoe · 05-18-2018, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MQF

Update:

Well first it has rained for about a week straight so very little airstream stuff has gotten done.

Good news. 24" breaker bar, and 5ft. 1 1/2" black gas pipe got the nuts loose on the hitch. Halfway through setting up the new shank going with the 2 1/2" shank with 6" drop and mounting the head in the bottom holes. Thank you everyone for your help so far.

......mine are at the top holes...3” lift kit...16” tires. =. 3 1/2” higher..close to 24” empty..